Rare Italians

wines

This is an exotic and opulent La Serra with ripe-fruit, orange-peel and terracotta aromas, as well as dust. Full body, polished yet chewy tannins and an extremely rich and long finish. Astonishing power and richness. Austerity with class. Reminds me of the perfect 1997. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 100 JS

One of the greatest expressions of this revered site and of this outstanding vintage, the Luigi Oddero 2019 Barolo Vignarionda is utterly breathtaking. From a classic vintage, it recalls the extraordinary Barolos from the era befpre climate change, starting with its multifaceted and intense aromas of red forest berry, new leather, cedar, truffle and wild rose. Full-bodied, structured and nuanced, the elegant palate is also intense and delicious, delivering succulent Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and menthol set against a backbone of refined, well-integrated tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and energized. While it’s already tempting, give this time to fully develop. What a Beauty. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KO

The 2019 Fuligni Brunello Riserva is drop-dead gorgeous. Made with the oldest estate vines, it opens with enticing scents of pine forest, violet, eucalyptus, juniper, new leather and dark exotic spice. Boasting intensity and finesse, the delicious, radiant palate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice, black tea and baking spice set against enveloping, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity provides balance and the promise of great longevity. An absolutely thrilling wine. Drink 2029–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a seductress, containing an array of cinnamon, clove, allspice, black cherry and hints of bay. It sweeps across the palate with a radiant and classic feel, with vividly ripe red fruits and sweet spices perfectly guided by a core of brilliant acidity. Its minerality comes through in the finish, tactile and saline in form. A web of fine-grained tannins wrap the senses with youthful poise, nuances of cedar and inner rose. The 2019 is spellbinding and built for the cellar. What a beauty.Vinous Media | 97 VMFuligni’s last Riserva was the 2016 vintage, and this 2019 absolutely lives up to the estate’s rigorous standards for bottling only in the best years. Gorgeous aromatics of cherry, florals, wood and some sottobosco emphasise its depth but also its vitality. The vibrant cherry and dark berry flavours are energetic and accomplished, and the intense, bright and long palate favours poise over muscularity. Superb.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECDried-berry, orange-peel and flower aromas follow through to a medium body with ultrafine tannins that blend nicely into the wine, delivering energy and length. Lovely ripe fruit with a juicy and flavorful finish. A classic and wonderfully proportioned young Brunello. Drinkable but better after 2026 and beyond.James Suckling | 97 JSFuligni’s 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a sultry and savory side with medium-grained tannins and extra textural buffering that surrounds a core of dark blackberry fruit. The alcohol content is high at 15%, but this full-bodied vintage does a very good job of covering up those excesses. This Riserva closes with hints of root beer and sauna wood.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe core of sweet, ripe black cherry, blackberry, tamarind, earth and tar aromas and flavors is swallowed up by a wall of tannins in this wild, muscular red. Will require time to find its balance; however, even at this stage, everything converges on the long, complex finish. Best from 2029 through 2047.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2020 Percarlo is a wine of nearly indescribable finesse and nuance. All the elements are so well balanced. In 2020, Percarlo is wonderfully understated, with mind-blowing balance and barely no perception of tannin. I don’t remember ever tasting a Percarlo with this much linear energy, tension and focus. The clean, mineral-drenched finish is unforgettable. The 2020 is, quite simply, spectacular.Vinous Media | 100 VMThe organic San Giusto a Rentennano 2020 Percarlo is born in a vintage of power, concentration and dark fruit flavors. All of these elements are delivered here, and as always, the wine shows impeccable Sangiovese balance with a spotlight on primary fruit, integrated tannins and bright acidity. The alcohol is high at 15%. In fact, the wine tastes young, and that’s not something you can say of most of the other releases from the 2020 vintage. This expression, however, still holds back just a bit and consequently promises an excellent cellar-aging evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP

A modern classic of the appellation, the fruit of the now proverbial cellar magisterium. Pink pepper and flavored morello cherry, coriander and lemongrass, then petunia. It shows a juicy and tense taste, highlighting salty-sapid tannins and spicy calls. Great length.Luca Gardini | 100 LGA muscular single-vineyard Brunello. Intense aromas of dark cherries, spearmint, lilacs and sandalwood. Full-bodied with a tight and compacted palate, chewy tannins and a fresh and tense finish. Needs time to soften and come together. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Giovanni Neri is a total spice box on the nose, with crushed roses, spiced orange peels, incense, raspberry, herbal tea leaves and hints of mint. More lifted and energetic than expected, it displays grace and youthful poise with mineral-inflected wild berry fruits. Vivid sour cherry lingers incredibly long through the finish as fine-grained tannins frame the experience and a bump of residual acidity keeps the mouth watering for more.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Tension of raw material and compactness for a Brunello for years an embodiment of balance and elegance. Juniper and eucalyptus aromas, with sensations of dogwood and dill jam. The taste is savoury and compact, with great balsamic chime and nuances of small fruits.Luca Gardini | 100 LGThe stunning Le Chiuse 2021 Brunello shows great intensity and structure as well as the elegant restraint the estate is known for. It opens with aromas of ripe plum, wild berry, forest floor, dark spice and blue flower as well as a camphor note. Vibrant, full-bodied and delicious, the palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, crushed black raspberry, licorice and fine tobacco blend lifted by fresh acidity. Taut, well-integrated tannins provide polished support. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe Le Chiuse 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely wine and one of my favorites from a vintage that is not always easy to read. It delivers its message clearly with dark fruit, blue flower, grilled herb and sweet cedar, showing a sense of fullness and aromatic completeness that is not always present in this year. Soft and silky on the palate, the wine offers gentle, powdery tannins supported by good underlying structure, achieving balance without force. Sourced as a special selection from eight hectares of organically farmed vineyards with cool exposures, this bottling demonstrates how site and restraint can successfully interpret variety and vintage. Production is 19,800 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPTwo barrel samples of the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino were tasted – the first from more elegant sandstone soils and the second from the more robustly profiled site with clay soils. The first boasts pretty citrus notes of orange and a refined feel throughout. It’s very pretty and also floral and floats on the palate. The second, from the clay soil, is deeper and has more robust tannins, with a darker feel and hints of tea on the finish. I’m looking forward to the blend when it comes together, and I think this is going to be a very good vintage for the estate.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass with a youthful blend of dried flowers, underbrush, crushed rocks and dried black cherries. It is surprisingly round and soothing to the senses, with waves of pure silk and red berry fruits elevated by a core of vibrant acidity. Minerality comes through in the finish, crunchy and long, as sweet tannins frame the experience remarkably well. This is a gorgeous interpretation of the vintage, yet patience is required.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of red cherries, stones and herbs like lavender. Medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit and firm, nervy tannins complemented by precise acidity. Lots of tension and definition. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

The drop-dead gorgeous Gianni Brunelli stopped me in my tracks with its stunning fragrance of freshly picked violet, iris, forest berry, leather and eucalyptus. All about extreme elegance, the palate is equally captivating, delivering layers of succulent Morello cherry, wild raspberry, blood orange, dark spice and crushed mint. Taut, ultra-refined tannins provide seamless support while fresh acidity keeps it vibrant and impeccably balanced. While it’s already incredibly tempting, it also promises years of graceful aging. Hats off to Laura Brunelli and her team. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOA polished and finely detailed expression, the Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto 2021 Brunello di Montalcino showcases tension and subtle sweetness carried across a taut, silky palate with beautifully textured tannins. Dusty mineral notes add definition and lift, while the overall impression remains ethereal and weightless, a hallmark of the estate’s precision with Sangiovese in this classic vintage. The wine balances finesse and structure with remarkable poise. Production totals 15,715 bottles, including 180 magnums and other larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPDried flowers mix with crushed rocks, grilled herbs and spiced orange peels as the darkly alluring 2021 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up from the glass. The wine is polished in feel, silken and serene with a harmonious mix of tantalizing acidity, minerals and ripe red and black fruits. While tannic, the tannins are round and refined, leaving a classically dry sensation as hints of licorice and cedary spice fade.Vinous Media | 95 VMSlightly earthy, almost tarry nose of deep red and dark fruit and hints of chocolate and spices. The palate shows balance and poise, with a medium to full body, very fine tannins and vivid acidity. Smooth and well integrated, with a lingering, lightly savory finish. Better from 2028.James Suckling | 94 JS

Very few vintages of this legendary Tuscan wine deliver the immediate joy, richness and complexity found in the Tenuta San Guido 2023 Bolgheri Sassicaia. Tasted both before and after its January 2026 bottling, this is a wine that feels uncannily open and generous in its youth, a rare trait for Sassicaia, which is famously inscrutable at this stage. The 2023 vintage was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by a severe outbreak of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing brutal fruit selection and resulting in a 20% reduction in yields. Only the estates willing to make these sacrifices succeeded, and the best wines rank among the most compelling and elusive of recent years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RP