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The 2007 Langhe Conteisa is impeccably ripe and silky on the palate, with expressive La Morra red fruits, flowers, mint and spices that emerge from the glass. This is another soft, seamless wine from Gaja, with gorgeous purity in the fruit that carries through all the way to the deeply satisfying, creamy finish. The tannins remain impeccably refined and beautifully balanced with the fruit. The wine is likely to firm up a touch in bottle, but it should be one of the most accessible of Gaja’s 2007s. The 2007 is easily among the finest Conteisas ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPBlueberry and lemon aromas follow through to a full body, with firm and racy tannins and a delicate finish. This is refined and polished. Drink after 2013.James Suckling | 95 JSFull medium red. Rather unforthcoming but mellow aromas of plum, mocha and licorice. Silky on entry, then more tightly wound toward the back in spite of its plush, layered texture. Lovely raspberry, spice and underbrush flavors blast through the building, granular tannins on the long aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2008 Sperss is exotic, dark and totally seductive. Black cherries, mint, licorice, flowers, spices and juniper berries meld together in the glass, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. Today the Sperss has begun to shut down in bottle. It isn’t anywhere near as expressive as the Conteisa, but that will come in time. There is so much to look forward to, but readers will have to be patient. In time, the 2008 Sperss will be yet another viscerally thrilling wine. Sperss is made from the Marenca and Rivette vineyards in Serralunga. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2008 Sperss is exotic, dark and totally seductive. Black cherries, mint, licorice, flowers, spices and juniper berries meld together in the glass, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. Today the Sperss has begun to shut down in bottle. It isn’t anywhere near as expressive as the Conteisa, but that will come in time. There is so much to look forward to, but readers will have to be patient. In time, the 2008 Sperss will be yet another viscerally thrilling wine. Sperss is made from vineyards in Serralunga.Vinous Media | 96 VMGaja’s Sperss was once a Barolo but now occupies a category all its own as a Nebbiolo from the Langhe region—the producer famously declassified his top wines. This shows extreme elegance and sophistication with fine nuances of forest fruit, spice, dried tobacco, licorice and Spanish cedar. The finish is long, polished and bright. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThere’s a lot of toasty oak framing the black cherry, tobacco and spice flavors in this suave, powerful red. Balanced overall, with plenty of fruit, but needs time to integrate more fully. Displays a fine mix of fruit and spice on the aftertaste. Best from 2016 through 2035. 600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis has a crazy intensity with a big hit of new wood but loads of ripe yet subtle fruit, from plums to dark berries. Full and chewy with round tannins and a long, persistent finish. Turns to licorice and spice in the aftertaste. Better in 2016.James Suckling | 94 JSDiscreet raspberry aromas. Fresh and sleek, with restrained tannins and no rough edges. Good acidity gives the palate length and finesse. Drinking Window 2014 - 2025Decanter | 91 DEC

A gorgeous red, scented with rose, mint, menthol, cherry and leather notes, with intense flavors matching the aromas. Dense with tannins, finely wrought and dovetailing on the long, detailed finish, this is very harmonious, yet will need time to fully express itself. Best from 2018 through 2038. 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2010 Barolo Bussia Cicala opens to a dark ruby color and a richly concentrated appearance. This wine will appeal to those who appreciate added texture and heft in their Barolo. A special nod also goes to the aging potential of the wine that promises to be long and steady especially given the high quality of the 2010 fruit. Bussia Cicala imparts deep textural richness with lovely finesse and structural integrity. Hold this wine for ten years or more. Its profound beauty is already evident, but the wine has barely started its evolutionary course. Drink: 2018-2035.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPConterno's 2010 Barolo Cicala boasts razor-sharp minerality and acidity in support of the beautifully delineated, resonant fruit. Rose petals, tar, licorice, dark cherries and tobacco are some of the many nuances that burst from the glass in an exotic, intense Barolo loaded with class and personality. The Cicala is going to require considerable patience, but it is a stunner. Vivid and alive through to the finish, the Cicala is easily one of the wines of this great Barolo vintage.Vinous Media | 97 VMJuicy black cherry, tobacco, leather, underbrush, licorice, menthol, mint and balsamic notes all come together on this powerfully structured wine. The succulent, ripe fruit is supported by a solid tannic backbone. It's already delicious but it's still compact and brooding so give it time to unwind. Drink after 2020–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThis shows more roses and mineral character than Colonnello. Full body with a beautiful round mouthfeel and a depth of fruit. A chewy, rich wine for the vintage. Better in 2015.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2011 Sassicaia, from magnum, has aged exceptionally well, certainly far better than I expected. Aromatic and wonderfully vibrant, the 2011 offers up an enticing mix of red cherry/plum fruit, dried flowers, tobacco, mocha and crushed autumn leaves. The warm, dry growing season was tempered by cooler evening temperatures toward the end of the season that were quite helpful in moderating the heat. The 2011 is so expressive, an absolute delight today.Vinous Media | 95 VMRipe black cherry and blackberry flavors pick up rosemary, mineral and spice accents in this red, which is concentrated and intense, fresh and focused. Racy midpalate, this leans toward black currant and cedar notes on the solid finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2017 through 2030. 13,500 cases made, 3,250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2011 Sassicaia comes from a vintage with a cold winter, a mild spring with abundant rains and a very good difference in temperatures between night and day during the summer and there were sunny days during the harvest. You can feel this sunny bright personality in the wine. The nose is open and accessible with aromas of bright red fruit and cream. On the palate there are contrasting flavours which are a little green and firm but these are enveloped in a luxurious texture and weight.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2011 Bolgheri Sassicaia speaks to a broad, yet very distinct audience. I am absolutely charmed by this vintage. Soft cherry and blackberry confit emerge from the bouquet in thick, luscious waves. Leather, spice and tar play supporting roles. The wine offers a generous and expansive style. It also shows impressive balance and coherent inner integrity. This vintage certainly bears the hallmarks of a hot vintage, but it never feels overdone. It delivers volume, intensity and rich texture. This Sassicaia is a wine of enormous craftsmanship.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe aromas of this Sassicaia shows a wet earth, ripe blackberry and black currant character. Some nectarines as well. Full body, with round and velvety tannins and a succulent juicy finish. Savory and delicious already. Needs a year or two to come together but already approachable. James Suckling | 94 JSAromas suggest blackberry, cedar and Mediterranean scrub. On the palate, notes of tobacco, licorice, exotic spice and cranberry accent the juicy black-cherry core. It’s well balanced and elegant, with silky tannins. Drink 2016–2026.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDelicate floral aromas lead into sappy red and black cherry fruit flavors, with notes of caramelized orange, dark chocolate and red licorice around the edges. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 15 percent Cabernet Franc, left for two years in French oak barriques, it’s polished and elegant, with vibrant acidity and refined tannins that promise this will age well.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&S

The highlight in this range, the exquisite 2014 Tignanello is all about persistence and understated class. The aromatics alone are captivating. Sculpted, finely delineated flavors add to the wine’s vivid personality. Because of the challenges posed by the growing season, the blend leans more heavily toward Cabernet Sauvignon than is typically the case. Above all else, though, the 2014 is all about harmony, and there is plenty of that here. Unfortunately, production is down 30%.Vinous Media | 96 VMExotic spice, cedar, purple flower, forest floor and wild berry are some of the aromas you’ll find in this fragrant, focused red. It’s loaded with finesse, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cassis, star anise and white pepper with remarkable precision. It’s fresh and balanced by vibrant acidity and elegant, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2029.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEReally pretty aromas of currants and roses follow through to a medium body, firm and silky tannins and a fresh finish. Very well done for 2014 and a wonderful Tignanello to drink now or later. Better in 2019.James Suckling | 94 JSTignanello has this amazing ability of always being, well, Tignanello. Its very DNA makes it among the most distinctive and recognizable wines in the world. I’m happy to report that this is also the case for the 2014 Tignanello that faced very different growing conditions compared to most. The wine is beautiful and balanced with sweet tannins and a supporting oak texture that is neatly folded at the back. The wine is all about measure and proportion, and it aspires to these goals with an impressive sense of natural harmony. This is not an overtly powerful or muscular expression. Instead, it shows a tasty, almost savory form of elegance. This vintage was made with 75% Sangiovese, which means that the Cabernet presence is a tad bigger than normal. Ultimately, this wine is more finessed and delicate, and I appreciate the careful tannic management on display here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA fresh, linear style, displaying cherry, iron, earth and spice flavors on a slim frame. Fine length.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2021 through 2035. 5,000 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Starting off a bit shy and closed at first, the 2015 Barolo Ravera showed noticeably better in the sample that had been opened a few hours prior to my arrival at the winery for my annual visit. This makes perfect sense as Vietti’s wines are intentionally slow at first but are built to endure the long haul. From the Novello township, this vineyard site is recognized for it power, structure and the uniquely broad approach it shows to the palate. There is a larger span of black fruit at its core. The positioning of the Ravera cru means it is open to the elements and the cold air from the Alps, and the wines result in freshness and mineral character as well. Luca Currado describes a salty, anchovy-like aroma that does indeed appear. Otherwise, this wine shows tightly polished and glossy tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThis Barolo, from Novello’s Ravera cru, leads off an impressive set of 2015 releases from Luca Currado. It’s rich and lively, with flavors of black cherry and seeded raspberry laced with notes of menthol, licorice and tobacco. Highly appealing for its energy and layered complexity, the wine has formidable tannins that call for patience. Dalla Terra, Napa, CAWine & Spirits | 96 W&SThe 2015 Barolo Ravera is once again the head of the class at Vietti. Bright, sculpted and wonderfully nuanced, the Ravera is very pretty. Floral aromatics and the pointed, brilliant fruit that is such a Ravera signature are very much in evidence. Hints of blood orange, mint, crushed rocks and flowers add shades of complexity as the 2015 gradually opens up in the glass. This is one of the finer wines of the year. Don’t miss it!Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThe beautifully fragrant roses are impossible to resist. This oozes charm. Also, there are red cherries, cocoa powder and an array of wild herbs in the mix. The palate has toned yet muscular tannins that build nicely to deliver a concentrated core of ripe red-cherry flavor that holds long, fresh and youthful. Great Barolo. Try from 2022.James Suckling | 95 JSThis red is full of sweet ripe plum, cherry and tar flavors, accented by tobacco and underbrush notes. Thick, dusty tannins coat the gums and put a clamp on the finish for now, but this shows potential. Best from 2023 through 2045. 642 cases made, 193 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe nose is rather shy but eventually reveals balsamic aromas of camphor that mingle with blue flowers and pipe tobacco. It’s full bodied and austere, delivering dried cherry, pomegranate and licorice framed in tightly woven, grainy tannins that leave a firm, drying finish. Drink 2023–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WELuca Currado at Vietti offers a very different expression of Ravera that’s more extracted and structured than Abrigo’s. It shows abundant aromatic force on the nose, with its lush cherry and tobacco aromas. There’s fine weight of fruit and considerable density here, and it’s robust without being too rugged. It’s a solid and complex style, but it’s also spicy and lively, and in no way heavy-handed. Long. Drinking Window 2021 - 2038Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2015 Barolo Fossati is slightly more accessible (by the smallest of margins) with well-defined fruit notes of wild berry and redcurrant, followed by rose hip, spice and dusty mineral or crushed slate. This wine is enormously focused and sharp, right down to its deep inner core, with elegant padding and layering at the back. It shows volume and length. The textural fiber of this wine is slightly more relaxed. This is an elegantly constructed and conceived expression of Nebbiolo from one of La Morra’s most gifted artisans.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPVoerzio’s 2015 Barolo Fossati is gorgeous. As always, the Fossati has a slightly nervous quality to its tannins. In this vintage, that’s a plus, as it gives the wine tension, energy and focus, all of which work so well in balancing the natural radiance of the fruit. This mid-weight Barolo packs plenty of punch and depth/Vinous Media | 95 VMA dense and fruity red with plums, dark berries, chocolate and hazelnuts throughout. Full body, creamy textured tannins and a chewy yet polished finish. Needs two or three years to come together. Better in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JS

From the southwest facing amphitheater of Lazzarito in Serralunga d’Alba the 2017 Barolo Lazzarito was aged for 30 months in a combination of large oak casks and barrique. The nose is layered with elegant spice and floral notes of cedar, red plum, and brushed leather. There is incredible balance within its structure, which has deceptive ease for early drinking. Hold 3-5 years or drink 2023-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis is very chewy and powerful with lots of velvety tannins that are firm and intense. It’s full and flavorful with strawberries and tar. Bark undertones. Flavorful finish. Needs time to soften. Try after 2024.James Suckling | 96 JSVietti’s 2017 Barolo Lazzarito is absolutely gorgeous. Whatever the challenges of the growing season, they appear to have been no problem here. More than anything else, the Lazzarito impresses with its magnificent depth and stature. Super-ripe red fruit, white pepper, mint, tobacco, cured meat, spice and rose petal open gradually with time in the glass. I would not be in a rush to open bottles anytime soon. The Lazzarito has been one of the most improved wines at Vietti for a number of years. The 2017 is so captivating.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGVietti owns two hectares in Lazzarito, a stunning amphitheatre facing southwest on clay-limestone soil. Planted to about 4,500 plants per hectare, the vines here have an average age of 38 years. Sweet, filigreed notes of cinnamon, strawberry candy and violet unfold in the glass. The attack is polished, with ripe, crunchy tannins. The austerity of Serralunga here becomes density and volume, kept lively by lifted acidity and finishing with liquorice root and cinnamon. Perfect balance and great elegance. This will develop more complexity with ageing. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECA release of 8,760 bottles, the Vietti 2017 Barolo Lazzarito draws its fruit from Serralunga d’Alba and reveals a luminous garnet color. Compared to some of the others in this portfolio, the wine takes a little longer to open and express itself. It does, however, unfold to dark cherry, redcurrant, grilled herb, iron ore and candied orange peel. You need to give your glass a few extra vigorous swirls. Those rusty mineral notes build in intensity and drive the wine’s medium-long finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA taut, structured Barolo, offering aromas and flavors of plum and cherry fruit shaded by accents of tobacco, iron, green tea and leafy underbrush. This is firm and gains power on the long finish. Best from 2025 through 2045. 774 cases made, 225 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2018 Barolo Ravera is a wine of real depth and vertical structure. As always, the Ravera is a taut, nervy Barolo built on energy more than volume. Readers will have to be patient, as the Ravera is likely to require a number of years to be at its most expressive. Even in the early going, it is vibrant and full of life. Rose petal, chalk, blood orange and white pepper lend striking exotic top notes that are quite suggestive of what the future is going to bring. What a gorgeous Barolo this is.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AGVietti is one of a handful of estates to bring the Ravera MGA of Novello to the current popularity it enjoys now. Their 2018 Barolo Ravera has a smoky personality with crushed stone and pencil shavings. There is plenty of dark fruit at the back, ripe cherry and blackberry mostly, and the wine is tonic and firm in terms of its structure and tannins. The Ravera is a wine of enormous length and a finely tuned texture. Exactly 7,560 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPLighter structure this year, but it’s intense, with focused red-cherry and raspberry character and spicy and mineral nuances. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and a very tight finish. This is super-compact and needs time to expand. Try from 2024.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2019 Barolo Lazzarito continues a trend seen in recent years in which the focus has been more about finesse than raw power. Intense red fruit, iron, dried herbs, chalk, dried rose petal and white pepper all run through this deep, virile Barolo. The power and intensity of Serralunga really come alive on the heady, explosive finish. Bright saline notes linger on the deep, resonant finish. A Barolo of raw, unbridled power, the Lazzarito demands patience.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The Ca’ Marcanda 2021 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda is made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in a supporting role. This a bold and beautifully concentrated wine with a brilliant character that is best described as Rubenesque. It shows supple texture and deep richness supported by sweet fruit and raspberry tart. The ripe, well-managed tannins cede to tingling freshness that adds energy and life.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2021 Camarcanda is a fabulous wine from the Gaja family, the best they have ever made at their Bolgheri property. The wines here have been through some ups and downs, but there seems to be greater focus over these last few years. Silky, aromatic and wonderfully pure, the 2021 Camarcanda offers a super, contemporary expression of Bolgheri with plenty of coastal sunshine and warmth, but nothing excessive. Silky tannins frame the exceptionally polished, nuanced finish. The 2021 is so alluring.Vinous Media | 97 VMPure and elegant, with saturated flavors of violet, black currant, blackberry, licorice and iron. This is so beautifully balanced that it feels almost seamless, even at this young stage, offering a sleek profile and endless aftertaste that echoes the fruit. The oak is very well-integrated, with polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2045. 2,500 cases made, 333 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSBottled in July of 2022, the 2021 Ca’ Marcanda has a dark saturated ruby hue and seamless aromatics of graphite, black cherry liqueur, cocoa powder, and forest herbs. Full-bodied on the palate, with great structure, focus and length, and wonderful richness, it’s incredibly even in its balance and has a very long finish. It’s going to need a few years to improve and show its best, but this is a remarkable wine from this stunning vintage. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDSince the hot 2015 vintage, Merlot has been omitted from Carmarcanda. It’s a stunning effort in 2021, with fragrant scents of dried cherry, sous bois and minty black fruits, which carry through onto the intense and vibrant palate. There’s a streak of balsamic herbs, and some raspberry and floral notes too. Poised and minty-fresh, this is a stunner.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA savory and juicy young red with currant, raspberry and boysenberry aromas and flavors that follow through to a medium to full body, with creamy and polished tannins and a pretty finish. There’s a freshness and focus to this. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2023 Gaia & Rey is superb. In fact, it’s one of the finest Gaia & Reys I have tasted. Vibrant and sculpted to the core, the 2023 is all class. Hints of apricot, white flowers, baked apple and chalk open with a bit of coaxing. This really fleshes out on the back end, where super-refined contours pull it all together.Vinous Media | 96 VMAromas of tropical fruit and apple carry over to the elegant palate along with layers of culinary spice and French oak. It’s polished and balanced, with fresh acidity that keeps it lifted. Drink or hold for more complexity. Drink through 2030. Abv: 13% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO