Rare Italians

wines

So perfumed and beautiful. Smells like an outstanding Burgundy. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, long fruity and focused finish. Hint of raisin. Beautiful balance and class. Better in a couple of years. Even better than I remember.--1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSFrom the Barolo appellation, the 1998 Conteisa displays a distinctive bouquet of black cherry jam mixed with vitamins, smoke, iron, minerals, and spicy oak. In the mouth, earth, truffle, lead pencil, and espresso-infused cherry flavors make an appearance. Deep, rich, and full-bodied, with moderate tannin and power, this impressive offering requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should age well for two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP(15-year-old vines; Gaja bought this property in 1995) Deep red-ruby. Highly complex aromas of game, nuts, animal fur, minerals and marzipan; seems more evolved today than the San Lorenzo. Round and rich in the mouth but not as complex as the nose promises; the ’99 shows greater clarity. Tannins are sweet and smooth but quite strong. Not yet showing its personality.Vinous Media | 92+ VM

The 2007 Langhe Conteisa is impeccably ripe and silky on the palate, with expressive La Morra red fruits, flowers, mint and spices that emerge from the glass. This is another soft, seamless wine from Gaja, with gorgeous purity in the fruit that carries through all the way to the deeply satisfying, creamy finish. The tannins remain impeccably refined and beautifully balanced with the fruit. The wine is likely to firm up a touch in bottle, but it should be one of the most accessible of Gaja’s 2007s. The 2007 is easily among the finest Conteisas ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPBlueberry and lemon aromas follow through to a full body, with firm and racy tannins and a delicate finish. This is refined and polished. Drink after 2013.James Suckling | 95 JSFull medium red. Rather unforthcoming but mellow aromas of plum, mocha and licorice. Silky on entry, then more tightly wound toward the back in spite of its plush, layered texture. Lovely raspberry, spice and underbrush flavors blast through the building, granular tannins on the long aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2008 Sperss is exotic, dark and totally seductive. Black cherries, mint, licorice, flowers, spices and juniper berries meld together in the glass, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. Today the Sperss has begun to shut down in bottle. It isn’t anywhere near as expressive as the Conteisa, but that will come in time. There is so much to look forward to, but readers will have to be patient. In time, the 2008 Sperss will be yet another viscerally thrilling wine. Sperss is made from the Marenca and Rivette vineyards in Serralunga. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2008 Sperss is exotic, dark and totally seductive. Black cherries, mint, licorice, flowers, spices and juniper berries meld together in the glass, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. Today the Sperss has begun to shut down in bottle. It isn’t anywhere near as expressive as the Conteisa, but that will come in time. There is so much to look forward to, but readers will have to be patient. In time, the 2008 Sperss will be yet another viscerally thrilling wine. Sperss is made from vineyards in Serralunga.Vinous Media | 96 VMGaja’s Sperss was once a Barolo but now occupies a category all its own as a Nebbiolo from the Langhe region—the producer famously declassified his top wines. This shows extreme elegance and sophistication with fine nuances of forest fruit, spice, dried tobacco, licorice and Spanish cedar. The finish is long, polished and bright. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThere’s a lot of toasty oak framing the black cherry, tobacco and spice flavors in this suave, powerful red. Balanced overall, with plenty of fruit, but needs time to integrate more fully. Displays a fine mix of fruit and spice on the aftertaste. Best from 2016 through 2035. 600 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis has a crazy intensity with a big hit of new wood but loads of ripe yet subtle fruit, from plums to dark berries. Full and chewy with round tannins and a long, persistent finish. Turns to licorice and spice in the aftertaste. Better in 2016.James Suckling | 94 JSDiscreet raspberry aromas. Fresh and sleek, with restrained tannins and no rough edges. Good acidity gives the palate length and finesse. Drinking Window 2014 - 2025Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2015 Barolo Fossati is slightly more accessible (by the smallest of margins) with well-defined fruit notes of wild berry and redcurrant, followed by rose hip, spice and dusty mineral or crushed slate. This wine is enormously focused and sharp, right down to its deep inner core, with elegant padding and layering at the back. It shows volume and length. The textural fiber of this wine is slightly more relaxed. This is an elegantly constructed and conceived expression of Nebbiolo from one of La Morra’s most gifted artisans.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPVoerzio’s 2015 Barolo Fossati is gorgeous. As always, the Fossati has a slightly nervous quality to its tannins. In this vintage, that’s a plus, as it gives the wine tension, energy and focus, all of which work so well in balancing the natural radiance of the fruit. This mid-weight Barolo packs plenty of punch and depth/Vinous Media | 95 VMA dense and fruity red with plums, dark berries, chocolate and hazelnuts throughout. Full body, creamy textured tannins and a chewy yet polished finish. Needs two or three years to come together. Better in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JS

This is an exotic and opulent La Serra with ripe-fruit, orange-peel and terracotta aromas, as well as dust. Full body, polished yet chewy tannins and an extremely rich and long finish. Astonishing power and richness. Austerity with class. Reminds me of the perfect 1997. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 100 JS

Perhaps the most robust and solid of the three wines by Roberto Voerzio tasted this year, the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is built like a little tank, or motor, that keeps moving forward no matter what. You taste that spirit and determination thanks to the elegantly aligned fruit and spice flavors that make up the wine’s elaborate profile. However, I also taste the 2015 vintage characteristics of rich and concentrated fruit to a greater degree in the Rocche dell’Annunziata. There is a point of softness here that you don’t get in Fossati or Cerequio. I tasted the open bottle again 24 hours later and was treated to beautiful notes of mint and balsam herb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSimilar notes of mulled black cherries, menthol, toasted spices, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata. It has the ripe, sexy style of the vintage, medium to full-bodied richness, an elegant, seamless texture, and a great finish. There are plenty of tannins here, yet they’re sweet and polished, and this beauty already offers pleasure. Nevertheless, it’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and should have three decades of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is laced with the essence of crushed raspberry, flowers, cedar, spice and tobacco. Silky and lifted in the glass, with a real sense of translucent beauty, the 2015 hits all the right notes. It’s a super classic Barolo from one of La Morra’s greatest sites.Vinous Media | 94 VM

One of the greatest expressions of this revered site and of this outstanding vintage, the Luigi Oddero 2019 Barolo Vignarionda is utterly breathtaking. From a classic vintage, it recalls the extraordinary Barolos from the era befpre climate change, starting with its multifaceted and intense aromas of red forest berry, new leather, cedar, truffle and wild rose. Full-bodied, structured and nuanced, the elegant palate is also intense and delicious, delivering succulent Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and menthol set against a backbone of refined, well-integrated tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and energized. While it’s already tempting, give this time to fully develop. What a Beauty. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KO