Rare Italians

wines

The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is every bit as spectacular as it has always been. I remember tasting the 2004 with Bruno Giacosa and Dante Scaglione before it was released, and making a note to buy as much of the wine as soon as it hit the market. I have never regretted that decision. Explosive, deep and powerful, the 2004 Asili will reward readers lucky enough to own it for several decades. On this night, it is simply sublime. Not surprisingly, the 2004 is also one of the favorites of the group.Vinous Media | 99 VMThe 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is even more compelling than the Rabaja. It floats on the palate with an ethereal core of sweet fruit that calls to mind a profound Musigny, but with the unmistakable structure of Nebbiolo. The perfumed purity of the fruit carries all the way through to the deeply satisfying, resonating finish. Made in a soft, seductive style, this remarkable wine is decidedly more approachable and easy to appreciate today than the Rabaja. Giacosa fans will have a great time discussing the merits of the Rabaja and the Asili in 2004, but to me they are virtually equally moving; Asili for its feminine gracefulness and Rabaja for its size and power. The Asili should prove more accessible at an earlier age. Bruno Giacosa says his 2004 Asili Riserva will turn out to be just like his 2000 Asili Riserva, the wine he still thinks is the best he’s ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPStrawberry jam, plums, berries, and black truffles. Brimming and super refined with super silky tannins and a long, long finish. Beautiful class and balance. This is drinking incredibly right now but will keep for decades.James Suckling | 97 JSAromas of strawberry and candle wax develop to cherry and light incense. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and lots of fruit. Focused and very well done, but really tight at the moment. Very structured. Needs time. This is the red label. Best after 2014. 1,170 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

A brilliant vintage and this is packed with gorgeously rich, concentrated black fruits. A beautiful wine that is starting to open towards tertiary aromatics and flavours, with the spiced rosemary, warm ash, graphite and black truffle notes coming to the fore. Everything is perfectly held in place, with the warmth of the vintage on display in confident, well balanced fruit. This is a wine you want to drink and share. Made with 100% new oak. Drinking Window 2019 - 2040Decanter | 98 DECThe 2007 Solaia saturates the palate with a heady array of super-ripe black cherries, plums, cassis, mocha and sweet French oak. There is an exotic quality to the Solaia I find totally irresistible. Despite its considerable ripeness and opulence, the 2007 Solaia is never heavy, rather it impresses for its extraordinary finesse and balance. Minerals, graphite and crushed rocks frame a long, seductive finish. This is a wonderful Solaia loaded with vintage and vineyard character. The 2007 Solaia is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in 100% new oak. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSoft contours, silky tannins and textural volume are the hallmarks of the 2007 Solaia. A riper, denser version of the 2004 with the richness of the 1997, the 2007 will please readers with a long drinking window of pure pleasure. The style is intense and bold. Readers who prefer more subtlety will find that in other vintages, as the 2007 is a voluptuous, racy, turn-on with tons of immediacy but less in the way of detail or nuance.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis is a subtle and racy wine. Balanced, with vibrant fruit and bright acidity and chocolate and spices. Full and racy. Very long. Austere. Fascinating. Very closed right now. Give it five or six years minimum now. Winemaker Renzo Cotarella says that Solaia is more reserved in character than the Antinori’s Guado al Tasso from Bolgheri, which is more flashy. Makes me smile.James Suckling | 97 JSA racy wine that offers so much currant and blackberry character. Full and very silky. Goes on and on. Fascinating. Best after 2012. 6,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This is an elegant Nebbiolo-based wine and arguably the most feminine of Gaja’s newest releases. There’s extreme balance and sophistication evident in the focused aromas of wild berry, white licorice, pressed violets and polished stone. The mouthfeel is tight, firm and those tannins need at least 10 more years to soften in your cellar. Beautiful.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEThe 2007 Langhe Sori Tildin opens with a huge, kaleidoscopic bouquet that immediately draws me in. A remarkably vivid wine, the sensual Sori Tildin caresses the palate with silky, textured fruit, showing incredible power, length and class. There is a transparency to the wine that is beguiling. Once again, the finish is eternal. Sori Tildin is one of Gaja’s more nuanced wines, and in 2007 it is breathtakingly beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2037My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2007 Langhe Sorì Tildìn opens with a huge, kaleidoscopic bouquet that immediately draws me in. A remarkably vivid wine, the sensual Sorì Tildìn caresses the palate with silky, textured fruit, showing incredible power, length and class. There is a transparency to the wine that is beguiling. Once again, the finish is eternal. Sorì Tildìn is one of Gaja’s more nuanced wines, and in 2007 it is breathtakingly beautiful.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGVery, very fresh and floral with peaches, ripe strawberries and plums. So aromatic and clear. Full-bodied, with powerful tannins and a cocoa, chocolate aftertaste. Gorgeous and sturdy. Needs time. Better after 2016.James Suckling | 97 JSToast and spice aromas lead off in this warm, expansive red, which quickly evokes black cherry, plum, floral and spice flavors, all allied to the silky texture and precision structure. Rich fruit and spice flavors echo on the finish. Best from 2014 through 2032. 80 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The Dal Forno family considered the idea of releasing their Amarone ten years after the harvest. If that plan had been implemented, this would be the vintage on the market now. The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta is a full and generous expression that delivers thick lines and robust flavors of dried blackberry, camphor ash, exotic cedar wood, licorice and tarry road pavement. This vintage saw average temperatures throughout the growing season with a few hailstorms along the way. Very dry weather led to some mild drought in July and August, with ensuing ripening and concentration of the clusters. I found this monumental wine to be irresistible when I first tasted it five years ago, and I consider it to have improved since then. This is one of the most complete and comprehensive vintages produced at Dal Forno, and it gives us an ample 360-degree view onto the might, brawn and potential of this icon wine from the Veneto. Its evolutionary track shows no sign of slowing down.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPThis is powerful and very rich with blueberries, flowers and hints of spices. Full body with velvety tannins and ripe fruits. Very beautiful and generous but not overdone. SuperJames Suckling | 98 JSThe 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella is one of the most sexy, open-knit young Dal Forno Amarones I can remember tasting. An enticing mélange of mocha, black cherry, bittersweet chocolate and leather captivates the senses. Incredibly open today, the 2009 can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring or aged for twenty years, perhaps beyond. Although the 2009 doesn’t quite reach the heights of the truly epic vintages here, it comes very close and will provide considerable pleasure sooner than many of those wines. I don’t think I have ever tasted a young Dal Forno Amarone with this much allure.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella is one of the most sexy, open-knit young Dal Forno Amarones I can remember tasting. An enticing mélange of mocha, black cherry, bittersweet chocolate and leather captivates the senses. Incredibly open today, the 2009 can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring or aged for twenty years, perhaps beyond. Although the 2009 doesn’t quite reach the heights of the truly epic vintages here, it comes very close and will provide considerable pleasure sooner than many of those wines. I don’t think I have ever tasted a young Dal Forno Amarone with this much allure.Vinous Media | 95 VMRich, with aromatic herb and tarry smoke notes, this silky, supple red is framed by mouthwatering acidity and dusty tannins. Shows ripe and concentrated flavors of date, sun-dried cherry, forest floor and ground spice, displaying a sense of harmony and density that suggests a long future. The finish echoes the spice and sweet fruit character. Drink now through 2029. 1,830 cases made, 450 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2010 Percarlo is shaping up to be one of the elite wines of this great Tuscan vintage. Even today, the 2010 is remarkably seamless, balanced and integrated, with fine tannins, beautifully delineated fruit and exceptional overall balance. Layers of dark fruit, graphite and exotic spices build to a crescendo of aromas and flavors that captivates the senses. Although it is early, it certainly looks like the 2010 Percarlo is set to take its place as one of the greatest wines ever made at San Giusto.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe profound beauty of the 2010 Percarlo cannot be exaggerated. This is an exceptional wine, and one of the best I tasted in Tuscany this year. The bouquet shows infinite layering and a steady evolution in the glass with tones of red cherry, spice, caramel, cigar ash, balsam herb and cola. It shows new dimension with each swirl of the glass. The mouthfeel, on the other hand, is steady and strong, with a gripping sense of structure that is yielding but dense at the same time. A point of acidity adds levity and length. This is an excellent candidate for long cellaring.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows excellent balance among the ripe, sweet cherry, wild herb, iron, earth and tobacco flavors. Structured yet elegant, with everything in the right place and set for another few decades of life. Fruit, mineral and underbrush notes grace the long aftertaste.—Non-blind Percarlo vertical (August 2018). Drink now through 2040. 1,264 cases made, 475 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Fragrant, with incense and sandalwood notes framing the core of cherry, accented by hints of leather, tobacco and tea. Exhibits purity and density despite the formidable tannins. The finish is long and complex, revealing fruit and spice elements. Best from 2018 through 2035. 1,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2010 Sperss delivers a broad approach to the bouquet with bold flavors of red fruit, spice and milk chocolate that caress the palate. The wine sports a broad frame with beautiful fruit filling at its core. The tannins in Sperss are very firm and structured and this wine won’t be ready for five to ten more years. Drink: 2018-2040.I have some happy news to report from the exciting world of Angelo Gaja. The estate that was notoriously difficult (if not impossible) to visit for those outside the wine trade is now opening its doors to the public. There is a steep entrance fee, but the scheme makes perfect sense in my option. Any wine lover can make an appointment to tour the estate and sample wine for up to 300 euros a person. The money must be paid to charity as none of the proceeds go to Gaja. If you have a favorite non-profit organization, make a donation in that amount. Once you send receipt of payment to Gaja’s tasting room staff, your visit will be granted. It sounds like a fair exchange to me.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPDark red fruit, savory herbs, menthol, tobacco and smoke are some of the many notes that take shape in the 2010 Sperss. A wine of unusual translucency and nuance, in 2010 Sperss is supremely refined and less bombastic than is often the case. The 2010 shuts down quickly in the glass and its best days lie many, many years ahead. Today, though, I am quite struck by what appears to be a subtle yet noticeable change in direction at Gaja.Vinous Media | 95+ VMAromas of menthol, tobacco, juicy black fruit, grilled herb and a whiff of truffle unfold in the glass. Made with Nebbiolo from the firm’s Serralunga holdings and a drop of Barbera, it has a pristine palate that delivers dark black cherry, licorice and black pepper alongside firm but fine tannins. It’s still young and austere so give it time to develop fully. Drink 2020–2045.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WELots of dark, deep fruits on the nose with hints of game. Full body, soft and silky tannins, and a long and flavorful finish. I like the play of fruit and austere tannins. Better in 2017.James Suckling | 94 JS

A beautiful, late-release 2010 Barolo Riserva, whose first impression is pink grapefruit, before settling on more familiar territory of dark cherries, lemon peel, lavender and heather with a touch of cedar. Full body, savory yet generous tannins and a long, chewy finish. Floral undertones throughout. Handsomely indented Burgundy bottle that you should seek out. Drink in 2022.James Suckling | 97 JSWow, this is really quite a wine. The 2010 Barolo Riserva Ginestra is guided by three lucky stars: First, it is made by an excellent producer. Second, it comes from an excellent vintage. And third, it comes from an excellent vineyard site. This is a stunning achievement that is teeming with life, intensity, elegance, pedigree and sheer excitement. The bouquet achieves impressive balance with fruit, spice, mineral and tertiary tones that are all played forward with equal intensity. There is a spot of sweetness on the close (with 15% alcohol) that adds to the volume and fullness of the mouthfeel. This wine merits a special place at the back of your cellar where it can age undisturbed for the next decade or two. Only 4,000 bottles exist.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPNot surprisingly, the 2010 Barolo Ginestra Riserva is the most overt and explosive Barolo in this range. Violets, lavender, blue/black fruit, smoke and licorice burst from the glass. The 2010 is wonderfully alive, with tons of Ginestra power and personality to burn. Today, the 2010 has the potential to develop into a thrilling Barolo.Vinous Media | 93-96 VMThis is still pretty closed up, with a kernel of sweet fruit surrounded by chewy tannins and licorice, leafy tobacco and underbrush flavors. Gains flesh and cherry notes with air, culminating in a dense, tannic finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 400 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Dark red fruit, iron, new leather and smoke all jump from the 2010 Barolo Brunate. A huge, dense, powerful Barolo, the 2010 Brunate boasts stunning depth and sheer richness. At the same time, though, it is incredibly polished for such a big wine. The Brunate brings together the power of the Lazzarito, but with a greater sense of textural polish and finesse that is typical of the Rocche. In 2010, the Brunate is all about balance and harmony.Vinous Media | 97 VMA 2010 Barolo with beautiful balance and complexity with rose, plum and hints of sandalwood. Full body, with integrated tannins and along and seamless finish. Best Brunate of the vintage. Better in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2010 Barolo Brunate impresses for its textural richness and aromatic generosity. The Brunate crus shows exceptionally well in 2010, offering the kind of structure that is as powerful and lasting as it is finessed and graceful. It’s the proverbial iron fist in a silken glove. A burgeoning bouquet of dried flower and pressed cherry roots the wine in a sense of freshness and youthfulness. Indeed, Brunate is a vineyard cru that is particularly suited to long-living Barolo. It is a crime to drink this wine before its time. Drink: 2018-2035.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPRich and chewy, sporting chocolate, tar, cherry, licorice and spice flavors. Unfolds effortlessly on the palate, with dense, dusty tannins lending support. The fine, fresh finish features a mineral undercurrent. Best from 2017 through 2032. 300 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSAromas of perfumed red berries, red rose petals, Mediterranean herbs and leather leap from the glass. The bright palate delivers bright red cherry accented with vanilla, licorice, coffee and espresso alongside bright acidity. Astringent wood tannins leave a drying finish on the close. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Aromas of blackcurrants and blueberries with hints of lavender and violets. Full body, chewy and polished tannins and a long, flavorful finish. A beautifully linear and polished red. Give it time to show it all but this is already a beauty. The depth and class to this are indeed impressive. Better in 2017.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2012 Tignanello is deep, rich and voluptuous, yet also retains a distinct element of classicism in its focused, mid-weight structure. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, kirsch, spice, tobacco and menthol open up in the glass, but only reluctantly. Firm veins of tannin and pulsating acidity give the wine its sense of energy and verticality. The mid-weight structure should allow the wine to open up in another few years. The 2012 isn’t as powerful as the 2010 or exotic as the 2011, but rather is most similar to how the 2005 was in its youth. The 2012 is a Tignanello built on pure finesse and grace. I would not open a bottle before its tenth birthday, if at all possible.Vinous Media | 95 VMHere’s a structured red with lots of finesse. It opens with alluring aromas of fragrant blue flowers, red berries, baking spices and exotic herbs while the firm, vibrant palate delivers black cherry, crushed raspberry, clove, orange zest, licorice and a sprinkling of white pepper. It’s still young but well balanced, with tightly woven but polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2017–2024.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2012 Tignanello is a very handsome wine with dark fruit nuances that extend far beyond the normal spectrum for Sangiovese (and the smaller percentages of French grapes that complete this wine). This vintage, that started off with a very hot summer and ended with a cool harvest season, show a little more spice and Mediterranean herb on the finish. Grapes were harvested at the end of September and delivered slightly less alcohol than previous vintages. There is a point of freshness but the tannins are mature and yielding. In fact, the tannic management is spot-on and is complimented by the velvety and rich nature of the mouthfeel. Pretty mineral accents add a lasting touch of complexity. The 2012 Tignanello has the qualities for a successful evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA rich, cherry-laced red, showing a slightly jammy character before shutting down in a grip of tannins. A bit awkward now, but should come around once the tannins are integrated.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2022 through 2040. 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This is amazing on the nose with blackberries, black truffle, dried cherries and hints of tobacco. It’s so complex on the nose that you almost don’t need to taste it. Full body, soft and velvety tannins and a persistent, fabulous finish. The mouthfeel is magic. 80% sangiovese and 20% cabernet sauvignon. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2013 Tignanello represents the beginning of a new chapter for Italy’s ultimate game-changer wine. The blend remains 80% Sangiovese with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc but Renzo Cotarella tells me "stylistically-speaking, this is what we wanted to achieve." The winemaking formula remains the same, but one of the major differences and benefits to this wine is vineyard age. The celebrated Tignanello single vineyard is now reaching 15 years old. In other words, it is in its production prime. This is a harmonious and beautifully integrated wine that reveals black fruit and baking spice. I’m told the 2014 Tignanello will have a greater percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2015 vintage will have more Sangiovese.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2013 Tignanello is a real knock-out. Rich and intense, but also linear in style, the 2013 is endowed with superb energy from start to finish. In this vintage, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc character is especially evident, especially in the aromatics. Today, the 2013 is tightly wound and not ready to show all of its cards. Readers will have to be patient with the 2013, but the wine has plenty to say. Above all else, this is a remarkable level of quality for a wine with Bordeaux First Growth production (but not price) often in excess of 25,000 cases.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AGDefined by licorice and black currant aromas and flavors, this is intense and harmonious. A crisp, vibrant feel pervades as this winds down, showing excellent length and a minerally element.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2023 through 2043. 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSWinemaker Renzo Cotarella declared the 2013 to be one of the most vibrant Tignanellos Antinori has ever made. It recalls 2010 but is a slightly less powerful package. The Cabernet Sauvignon is particularly evident at the moment, with well-defined nuances of blackberry bush. Notes of fresh dark earth, red cherry and minerality lurk underneath. The tannins are long and refined but not quite ready to relax their grip. Currently austere rather than generous, this needs time to knit together. Drinking Window 2021 - 2036.Decanter | 95 DECVibrant and loaded with finesse, this blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc opens with enticing scents of red woodland berry, new leather, Asian spice and a touch of menthol. The youthful palate delivers red currant, wild cherry, star anise and clove alongside a backbone of firm acidity and polished, tightly wound tannins. It will age majestically; drink 2020–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEFlavors of black currant and tobacco bring the influence of Cabernet Sauvignon (15 percent) and Cabernet Franc (5 percent) to the fore in this Sangiovese-based blend. Ample alcohol lends a Bourbon-like edge to the wine’s oak-derived accents of vanilla and coconut, but Sangiovese’s firm, raspy tannins guide the wine back toward red cherry flavors and into a long, smoky finish.Wine & Spirits | 92 W&S

Supremely elegant and poised, with a combed-back sleekness and grace. Crushed raspberry is at the centre of a deeper and darker palate of sweet black cherry, juniper berries and wild mint. Great precision and an underlying structure supports and gives amplitude to a glossy, fine finish like polished mahogany. Drinking Window 2019 - 2029.Decanter | 98 DECAs always, the Sorì Tildìn is a wine of nuance and delineation above all else. Beautifully sculpted and precise, the 2013 offers up a compelling interplay of dark red cherry, mint, lavender and licorice. A subtle accent of French oak adds nuance without detracting from the wine’s translucent personality and overall energy. At the same time, it is hard for the mind not to wander a bit and imagine what the wine might have tasted like had it been made more along the lines of the Costa Russi, especially given this site’s inherent finesse. But back to the present. The 2013 Sorì Tildìn is another drop-dead gorgeous beauty from Gaja.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe perfumes are fabulous here with strawberry, walnut and porcini mushrooms. Mountain herbs. Full body, tight and integrated tannins and a long finish. Refined and beautiful. Hard not to drink now.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2013 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn sees fruit sourced from a vineyard site located directly above Costa Russi. This fruit is harvested at 260 meters above sea level, while the latter is located 30 meters lower in elevation. The age of the vines is slightly younger as well, with 45-years-old being the average age. That subtle change in vineyard location does much to shape the generosity and bounty of the bouquet. There is a distinct softness and roundness here that comes forth as dark cherry, pressed blackberry and plum, with tobacco and leather in a supporting role. This Barbaresco stands on solid feet with tight textural richness that comes exclusively from the Nebbiolo grape. Breaking with past tradition, Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is made with a single variety.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPPure cherry, strawberry, spice, tar, tobacco and mineral flavors highlight this youthful red, which is fragrant and elegant, with fine balance and a taut, tensile finish. Reveals a racy side with air, showing terrific energy, complexity and length. Best from 2021 through 2038. 77 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSAromas of aromatic herb, dark berry, eucalyptus, iris and a whiff of espresso float out of the glass. The vibrant assertive palate shows black cherry, licorice, mint and well-integrated oak sensations framed in youthfully austere tightly knit tannins. This needs time to unwind and fully develop.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Extremely pure fruit on the nose here with aromas of plums and strawberries and hints of cedar and rose petals, as well as rose stems. Full body. Very tannic and structured, yet polished and refined. Dusty and stony undertones and textures. Drink after 2021.James Suckling | 98 JSFrom the La Morra side of the Cerequio MGA, the 2015 is deeply resonant, its dark fruit tones layered with notes of cedar, tobacco and porcini. The Gaja family has worked extensively on canopy management since the warm 1997 and 2003 vintages, and this shows in the pleasantly tart flavors of black cherry and strawberry they achieved in the warm, dry 2015 growing season. The flavors weave together in a suave, seamless texture, expanding with air while maintaining precision and freshness. —S.J. Terlato Wines Int’l, Lake Bluff, ILWine & Spirits | 98 W&SThe 2015 Barolo Conteisa is a heady, exotic wine, and also one of the most complete, alluring Conteisas I have ever tasted. Conteisa is usually a wine of grace and understatement. The 2015, on the other hand, is a bold, sweeping Barolo that saturates the palate with stunning depth and volume. Even with all of its intensity, the 2015 remains vibrant. This is such a complete, harmonious wine.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGA big, beefy Barolo, the 2015 Barolo Conteisa comes from a site near La Morral and was first made in 1996. It takes plenty of air to come together but offers a complex bouquet of bright cherry and currant fruit interwoven with classic licorice, tar, sappy flowers, and even hints of iron. It shows a touch more minerality with time in the glass, but this is classic, full-bodied, powerful Nebbiolo with plenty of ripe tannins, a stacked mid-palate, and a blockbuster finish. Give this structured, tight 2015 upwards of a decade of cellaring, and it’s going to keep for 30 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe large shoulders of this warm 2015 vintage contrast sharply with the delicate nuances of the 2016 Barbarescos also released now from Gaja. The 2015 Barolo Conteisa is intense, with a background chorus of plum, prune, herb, mint and wild cherry. It’s a very balanced Barolo. The Cerequio vineyard that provides this fruit often suffers from hail damage because the vineyard is located along the corridor of bad weather that comes over the hill from La Morra. There was some damage in mid-August, but fruit in the 2016 vintage suffered much more extensively in comparison. In fact, so little fruit was saved that Gaia Gaja is pretty sure this wine will not be produced next vintage. She tells me that they are now experimenting with anti-hail netting at this site—an eyesore they had long hoped to avoid.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPSavory, with salinity wrapping around a core of cherry, strawberry, licorice, eucalyptus and tar flavors. Supple in texture yet firmly structured, showing nice harmony and a long finish. Best from 2021 through 2036. 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSUnderbrush, toast and oak aromas form the nose. Firm and austere, the linear palate evokes tart cranberry, raw pomegranate, sage and roasted coffee bean alongside taut, close-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Fragrant and full bodied, this structured red has enticing aromas evoking woodland berry, balsamic aromas of pine, rose petal and exotic spice. The enveloping palate delivers crushed raspberry, succulent Marasca cherry, licorice and nutmeg alongside firm, tightly knit tannins. Fresh acidity lends tension and balance. Best 2022–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello has a very distinct character that is expressed in terms of its fine but present tannic structure and its somewhat fragile primary fruit. The Ovello dives straight into those ephemeral Nebbiolo aromas with an emphasis on licorice, tar, blue flower and campfire ash. If you consider this timeline of Riservas, this wine brings us through that magic threshold in which Nebbiolo starts to show its unique aromatic appeal and mystique. This is always one of my favorites in this series of nine. Production is 18,741 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPAn opulent and complex version, boasting cherry, strawberry, cut hay, iron and tobacco aromas and flavors. Firms up nicely on the finish, with terrific balance and length. Shows both a fruity and a savory side, with fine potential to age. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,561 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSOvello is the northernmost vineyard in the Barbaresco commune - and the largest. It was one of the original five vineyards individually bottled in 1967 by Produttori. The clayey soils and exposure to the cool northern winds gives this wine a full body and structured tannins. The 2015 features a woody, vanilla-toned fragrance with some delicate cherry fruit. In the mouth it's a latticework of well integrated tannins with lacy acidity draped over deep hedgerow fruits, followed by some subtle wood spice on the long finish. This is one to leave for a few years, but there's so much potential here. 17,000 bottles and 1,200 magnums produced. Drinking Window 2024 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECOne of the stand outs in this range, the 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello shows the energy and tension that are so typical of this site, but with a slightly riper profile than is the norm. Then again, we are talking about 2015. Although perhaps not the most classic expression of Ovello, the Produttori's 2015 is very nicely done. Best of all, it will drink well with just a few more years in bottle. This is an especially heady, exotic Ovello Barbaresco that needs to shed some baby fat, its considerable appeal today notwithstanding.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Aromas of rose, woodland berry, menthol and a whiff of pipe tobacco fill the glass. Full-bodied and loaded with finesse, the structured, elegant palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and cinnamon while taut, fine-grained tannins provide support. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and focused. Drink 2023–2035. Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOAromas of rose, woodland berry and menthol with a whiff of pipe tobacco fill the glass. Full bodied and loaded with finesse, the structured, elegant palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and cinnamon, while taut, fine-grained tannins provide support. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and focused. Drink 2023–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2015 Barolo Villero offers richness and darkness with fruit from Castiglione Falletto, and it’s one of the more intense wines I tasted within this selection. The Villero is a balanced and polished Barolo that opens to nicely integrated fruit and spice tones, expertly interwoven and united. The wine has a beautiful entry to the palate. Indeed, this pretty wine presented a united front, with seamless and graceful integration.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAromas of praline, honey, orange peel and cherries follow through to a full body, chewy tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Beautiful intensity and power. Drink from 2022.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2015 Barolo Villero is a very pretty, mid-weight wine. Silky tannins and beautifully expressive aromatics give the Villero considerable finesse. On the palate, though, the 2015 is far less expressive. That is not entirely surprising, as the Villero often needs a few years to truly blossom. Sweet floral and spice notes start to open with time in the glass, but the Villero is not an especially forthcoming 2015 Barolo.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

Extremely perfumed, showing lots of rose, lavender and dark-berry character. Full body with intense density and chewiness that gives the wine great structure. Lots of flavor and focus at the finish. Needs five to six years to finish. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is just as stunning as it was last year. Bright, floral and punchy, the Gavarini explodes from the glass with blood orange, white pepper, mint and a range of red fruit and floral notes that give energy and drive.Vinous Media | 97 VMGianluca Grasso did not make this wine in 2014, but in 2015, he found the vintage he was looking for. The 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is perfectly wonderful. The wine combines power with elegance, showing long determination as it wraps smoothly over the palate. The mature tannins are well integrated within a profound, ripe and round quality of dark fruit. That juicy and succulent core shows graceful notes of violet, licorice, cola, moist earth and white truffle. Grasso knew that this would be a great vintage and he nailed it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPNot showing much today, this red reveals an undercurrent of iron and black pepper notes supporting the core of cherry, plum, earth and tobacco flavors. Fresh and intense, with a long, resonant aftertaste of fruit, tar and spice. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

This is an exotic and opulent La Serra with ripe-fruit, orange-peel and terracotta aromas, as well as dust. Full body, polished yet chewy tannins and an extremely rich and long finish. Astonishing power and richness. Austerity with class. Reminds me of the perfect 1997. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 100 JS

Perhaps the most robust and solid of the three wines by Roberto Voerzio tasted this year, the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is built like a little tank, or motor, that keeps moving forward no matter what. You taste that spirit and determination thanks to the elegantly aligned fruit and spice flavors that make up the wine’s elaborate profile. However, I also taste the 2015 vintage characteristics of rich and concentrated fruit to a greater degree in the Rocche dell’Annunziata. There is a point of softness here that you don’t get in Fossati or Cerequio. I tasted the open bottle again 24 hours later and was treated to beautiful notes of mint and balsam herb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSimilar notes of mulled black cherries, menthol, toasted spices, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata. It has the ripe, sexy style of the vintage, medium to full-bodied richness, an elegant, seamless texture, and a great finish. There are plenty of tannins here, yet they’re sweet and polished, and this beauty already offers pleasure. Nevertheless, it’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and should have three decades of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is laced with the essence of crushed raspberry, flowers, cedar, spice and tobacco. Silky and lifted in the glass, with a real sense of translucent beauty, the 2015 hits all the right notes. It’s a super classic Barolo from one of La Morra’s greatest sites.Vinous Media | 94 VM

There is slightly more structure to the 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté than to the Gavarini Chiniera of the same vintage, and the only differences here are the soils and that this fruit is harvested about ten days later. It’s a pretty fascinating demonstration of the power of the single vineyard. The Gavarini Chiniera parcel offers slightly sandier soils, whereas this site is composed of more clay. In rainy years, the Gavarini Chiniera vineyard drains more effectively, whereas the Ginestra’s soil retains more moisture in the hot and dry vintages. As a result, in vintages such as this one, Ginestra shows a more compact nature and, in general, provides more impact and more structure. This is a very robust expression, extremely linear and tight. The Ginestra Casa Maté narrowly wins this round. It’s another beautiful Barolo.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is creamy, layered and super expressive. All the elements are in the right place. A whole range of deeply spiced, mentholated, balsamic Ginestra notes race out of the glass. With a bit of time, the 2015 starts to open up beautifully. A wine of breath and resonance, the 2015 is just gorgeous today. It hasn’t moved much over the last year, which is a very good thing for its long-term prospects.Vinous Media | 96 VMComplex aromas of figs, ripe strawberries and fresh mushrooms. Full body, firm and tight tannins with a solid core of fruit and a long, linear finish. Great length. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 96 JSPacked with sweet plum, cherry, licorice, iron, tar and leather flavors, this red is alluring and built for the long haul. Lively acidity and dense tannins lend support. Achieves fine balance among all the elements. Patience is required. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 13 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis vineyard lies on a fine slope in Monforte across from Serralunga, and the average age of the vines is 40 years. The nose is piquant, with aromas of dried herbs and flowers as well as red fruits. The palate is sleek, with refined tannins and good acidity, and while there’s no lack of grip it’s not too extracted. It displays a long, fine, spicy finish with just a hint of dryness.Decanter | 92 DEC

Wonderful aromas of roses and sliced plums with wet earth and truffles. Then turns to raspberries and blackberries. Cherries, too. Full and firm with super integrated tannins that melt into the wine. It flows from the center palate in a beautiful sheet of fruit and tannins. Extremely long and coated with great finesse. Goes on for minutes. Better in 2022, but already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 99 JSThe Valdicava 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is a dark and sultry wine with a beautiful presentation of aromas. This full-bodied Sangiovese opens to aromas of plumy dark fruit, black cherry, cured tobacco, cola and balsam spice. There are earthy or savory tones as well, with some fragrant crushed flower or wild rose that come straight out of the classic Sangiovese playlist. Generally speaking, this Brunello veers toward black fruit aromas (as opposed to red fruits), and its smooth texture and elegant tannins are well suited to a classic Tuscan dish of pappardelle con sugo di lepre (wild rabbit) or another game sauce. Production is 37,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe bouquet holds back at first, yet with coaxing in the glass begins to show a beautiful mix of perfumed black cherry, mentholated spices, wild herbs, white smoke and hints of leather. On the palate, I find silky, enveloping textures, contrasted by cool-toned red and black fruits which flood the senses as brisk acids brought out its spicier, sweeter side with balancing fine tannin and minerals toward the finale. The finish went on and on, showing both fine tannin and juicy acids as lingering red berry fruits, hints of hard candies and red florals slowly fade. There’s a balance to the 2015 Brunello that is seldom seen here, and I believe the best is yet to come. This was tasted twice with similar results.Vinous Media | 95 VMRipe cherry, plum, raspberry, earth and almond flavors combine in this supple red. Vivid and well-defined by the sleek structure, ending with earth, wild herb and mineral accents. Very pure, verging on racy. Best from 2023 through 2045. 3,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

A marvelous red with superb depth and structure. Strength with finesse. Aromas of graphite, burnt orange, steak tartar, iron and rust that follow through to a full body. Yet, it’s tight and poised with such refinement and beauty. Fabulous. Drink after 2022 and onwards.James Suckling | 99 JSGorgeous notes of black cherries, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Cerequio, and this beauty is about as seamless and sexy as they come. More spice, toasted almonds, and dried flower notes develop with time in the glass, and it has magical tannins, medium-bodied richness, and a great, great finish. Give bottles 2-4 years and it’s going to impress for a good 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Brunate is another super-expressive wine in this lineup from Roberto Voerzio. Sage, mint, underbrush, tobacco and licorice nuances give the Brunate striking aromatic complexity. A Barolo of real presence and stature, the Brunate is so inviting as it gains breadth with time in the glass. Another few years will help the tannins soften.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Superb complexity on the nose with crushed berries, dried flowers, tar, licorice and aniseed. Full body, firm tannins and superb depth and intesity. Goes on for minutes and changes all the time. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 98 JSGorgeous notes of black cherries, tobacco, and licorice emerge from the 2015 Barolo Cerequio, and this beauty is about as seamless and sexy as they come. More spice, toasted almonds, and dried flower notes develop with time in the glass, and it has magical tannins, medium-bodied richness, and a great, great finish. Give bottles 2-4 years and it’s going to impress for a good 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2015 Barolo Cerequio shows impressive and firm construction; however, the wine remains delicate and finessed all the while. This is a real stunner with inner fiber that is as strong, but as softly textured, as the highest quality silk. Aromas of wild cherry, violets, licorice and tar are in a tight, nascent state at this young stage. This implies they will blossom with time, coming into focus with greater intensity and complexity as the wine continues its careful bottle aging. This wine shows an evident mineral signature at the back.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2015 Barolo Cerequio is ample and generous on the palate, with a real sense of breadth that is immediately apparent. All of the classic Cerequio signatures are present - the red berry fruit, floral accents and silky tannins, within a classic structural framework. The stylistic shift that started around 2008 is evident.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2016 Trinoro is one of the most extraordinary wines I have ever tasted from Trinoro and proprietor Andrea Franchetti. Deep and yet also silky, with exceptionally refined tannins and exquisite balance, the 2016 has so much to recommend it. Dark raspberry jam, white chocolate, mint and rose petal notes are all finely knit in this sublime, exquisitely beautiful wine. The finish alone boasts mind-bending intensity and persistence.Vinous Media | 100 VMThe 2016 Tenuta di Trinoro is a truly gorgeous creation. The flagship wine from Tenuta di Trinoro is 48% Cabernet Franc and 52% Merlot (fermented in steel like the other top-shelf wines from this estate, followed by eight months in new barrique and 11 months in cement). The alcohol here clocks in at 15.5%, and you do feel it. This powerful Tuscan blend offers nice, ripe intensity and bold movements. It is rich and beautiful, layering out tranches of fruit, cinnamon and spice in perfect harmony. It is a full-bodied wine with some sweet cinnamon spice on the close. Some 6,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPPure, ripe flavors of plum, blackberry and fruitcake are wrapped in toasty oak. This is dense, picking up earth and tobacco notes as the spice elements echo on the firm finish. The lasting impression is of saturated fruit. Everything is in proportion for a long life ahead. Best from 2022 through 2035.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe highest percentage of Merlot in Tenuta di Trinoro (with the exception of 2019), thanks to a cool summer – and even some hail in early July. From this vintage, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon have been dropped from the flagship wine due to the increasing quality of the Cab Franc and Merlot. A green harvest was carried out, along with trimming the canopy. The Merlot was picked over the course of several days, commencing on 24 September, and – as Andrea reported – on 10 October ‘the moon was rising fast and the [Cabernet Franc] grapes thrust forward into maturity.’ Picking of the Cabernet Franc was completed on 13 October. Vibrant and bold, the 2016 has a rich Merlot nose with dried fruits, potpourri and damp earth. In the mouth, ripe red and black berries mingle with black cherry and raspberry coulis hints. Plentiful grippy, chalky tannins and a stony mid-palate give shape and structure. Spicy and fresh. 6,000 bottles made.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECPlum, underbrush, exotic spice and French oak aromas jump out of the glass on this concentrated Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend. The bold, dense palate offers blackberry jam, licorice, vanilla and tobacco framed in firm, velvety tannins. It closes on the warmth of alcohol. Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOPlum, underbrush, exotic spice and French oak aromas jump out of the glass on this concentrated Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend. The bold dense palate offers blackberry jam, licorice, vanilla and tobacco framed in firm velvety tannins. It closes on the warmth of alcohol.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The Le Chiuse 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Diecianni is a beauty, holding together with impeccable balance and a silky, persistent finish. The tannins remain firm yet refined, with menthol-like notes that add lift and vibrancy, recalling a timeless winemaking style. On a second tasting, the wine shows additional definition and clear signs of bottle age, with polymerized textures and a touch of sweetness that adds weight and slightly softens the overall profile. Drawn from one of the last truly classical vintages before climate change reshaped the region’s style, this Riserva is a timeless and memorable expression released in just 2,600 bottles. The 2016 takes Le Chiuse’s celebrated late-release program to the next level. Congratulations.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPA preview of a wine that will not be released until 2026, the 2016 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva is a jeweled ruby color and is very expressive on the nose at this stage, with lovely clarity and concentration in its notes of wet stones, framboise, rose petal, and pure orange. It feels trapped in time, with bright, refined tannins and mouthwatering freshness without ever feeling out of it. Reminding me of the moment when an orchestra is tuning and becomes perfectly in tune, so the whole room resonates, though it’s not about being louder, this wine ignites all the senses. It’s a truly superb and singular wine from Le Chiuse. Bravo. Now to wait another two years for its release.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe Le Chiuse 2016 Brunello Riserva Diecianni is a staggeringly beautiful wine, starting with its compelling nose of violet, perfumed berry, dark spice and forest floor. Smooth, delicious and showing the estate’s hallmark of elegance, the palate delivers seamless layers of plum, Morello cherry, cake spice, licorice and mentholated notes alongside silky tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright and impeccably balanced. Another beauty from this fantastic winery. Drink through 2046. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Diecianni is impossible to ignore, with a wonderfully earthy and old-school blend of crushed cherries, fall leaves, underbrush, sweet pipe tobacco and autumnal spice. It presents a harmonious combination of silken, nearly fleshy textures and vividly ripe red and black fruits underscored by minerals and a hint of citrus. The structure clamps down through the finish, reminding me of this beauty’s youthful state as a tinge of wild blueberry fades. This is a glorious riserva with a very bright future.Vinous Media | 98 VMReleased 10 years after the harvest, Le Chiuse’s Riserva is made from the estate’s oldest vines, approximately 35 years old, which typically yield small berries. Lorenzo Magnelli says these confer greater depth of aromas, tension and mineral profile. This 2016 late release is a striking testament to that. Though less floral, it is reminiscent of its annata counterpart, with the intensity dialled up. Pronounced tobacco and Chinese five spice with smoky Lapsang tea make for an exotic introduction. Mouthcoating and velvety, the umami-driven palate reveals dried cherry, truffle and hints of walnut. Assertive, tight-knit tannins tug persistently. This is just at the very beginning of it wide drinking window.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECComplex wine, full of evolved notes of blackberries and strawberry jam, tobacco, earthy notes and restrained chocolate. Full-bodied, it shines for crisp acidity with firm, velvety tannins that are still grippy yet condensed and long. Meaty, umami finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2016 Barbaresco Montestefano is magical. Bright and translucent, the 2016 pulses with energy from the very first taste. This is about as classic as things get in Barbaresco today. Sweet rose petal, cinnamon, dried flowers, cedar and mint all give this ethereal, wonderfully nuanced Barbaresco ton of subtlety. A kick of bright Nebbiolo acids and tannins give energy and shape.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta keeps me at the edge of the glass to take in its darkly alluring bouquet of dusty black currants and dried flowers, with hints of blood orange offset by sweet rose. While currently youthful and understated, it continues to open and deepen with each swirl. This is silky and cool-toned in feel, savory to the core, with a dense wave of mineral-tinged dark red fruits carried across a core of vibrant acidity. Autumnal spices form toward the close. The 2016 is inward and saturating, building in fine tannins that clench the palate through the finale, promising a long, long life. This is a masterpiece in the making, and while already bottled, it will not be released until 2023. Production was again down by 50% in 2016 due to hail.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMReleased after the 2017 vintage, because it was decided that this dense, concentrated vintage would benefit from more time in the bottle, the 2016 is fuller and broader in the shoulders compared to the 2017 Amarone. There’s more of everything – body, concentration, tannic presence, richness, spiciness...And while there’s a reductive note of petrichor, its aromatics still soar, carrying wafts of wild black fruits and balsam out of the glass. Enticing already, its future looks very bright indeed.Decanter | 98 DECThe 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta takes wine intensity to almost unthinkable levels. That’s the magic of this estate, and without a doubt, this wine occupies a category that makes it totally unique on the Italian wine scale. Made with a traditional blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina and 10% Oseleta (aged in French and American new oak for two years), the wine feels even richer, bolder and more concentrated in this classic vintage. That general intensity is applied to the tightly wound and firm tannins as well. The alcohol reading is 16.5%. This Amarone hits the market in 2023, but you’d do well to age it for another decade at least. Black fruit, baked plum, tobacco, soy sauce, grilled herb and sweet spice are generously folded into the wine’s full-bodied texture. The 2016 vintage saw 17,000 bottles created.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP