Rare Italians

wines

In the far southeast of Barolo, Giacosa’s 9ha monopoly shines in 2021. Made from vines with an average age of 35 years, Falletto flirts rather than flaunts. Red and black currants establish a backdrop from which iron, sage, bay leaf and liquorice root arise. Elegance, polish and precision are impeccably demonstrated, as is immense freshness, with racy acidity giving mouth cleansing vibrancy and energy. The tannins are fine-grained and silky, building up steadily in dignified strength around a core of pulverised stone. Pressed rose and lilac perfume the finish. 6,820 bottles and a few hundred magnums produced. The red label Riserva Vigne Le Rocche 2021 will be released in 2027.Decanter magazine | 98 DECThis is all about purity, with cherries, strawberries, spices, sandalwood, iodine, seashells and black truffles on the nose. Full-bodied but so balanced and focused, with layering and vertically that go on and on. The nebbiolo character is intense and gorgeous. Some pure fruit at the end, with notes of flint and gunpowder. Best after 2027, but it’s already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 98 JSA floral nose with violets and rose petals leading the way. This comes from two old vine sites in the Dundee Hills. It was not affected by the frost in 2022, winemaker Jim Maresh got to use his primary shoots, and that means the wine stays concentrated. Weber Vineyard is a quarter mile from Maresh Vineyard on Worden Hill Road. Gobs of fresh berries, savoury dried anise, and bramble fruits mark the palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPSupple in texture and loaded with finesse, this Barolo exudes flavors of raspberry, cherry, rose, iron, tar and spices, with a hint of licorice. The dense, fine-grained tannins emerge as this winds down on the long, languid aftertaste. Vibrant and complex. Best from 2029 through 2050. 600 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2021 Barolo Falletto comes from the lower portion of the slope and was aged for 34 months in big barrels and then six months in bottle. In the glass, it pours a jeweled red hue with a bit more pigment than the Barbaresco and is spicy on the nose, with a compelling feel in its notes of spiced cherries, fresh herbs, smoky incense, and hints of fresh leather. The palate is medium-bodied, with lovely purity and clarity that was a consistent thread throughout all the wines at this tasting. It features ripe tannins with a noble yet elegant feel, as the fruit shines brightly and carries through to a long and even finish. As it opens, it showcases its more noble structure, along with the ability to age over the next two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD