Rare Italians

wines

The prodigious 1997 Amarone Vigneto Alto TB is reminiscent of Henri Bonneau’s 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins. The lofty 16% alcohol is barely noticeable. Yields were a minuscule 20 hectoliters per hectare. Sadly, there are only 300 cases of this extraordinary Amarone. It boasts notes of smoke, truffle oil, blackberries, plums, and earthy, concentrated black currant jam. Layered, thick, full-bodied, and dry, with extraordinary purity as well as definition, it is an amazing achievement. While not for everybody, this is a singular, impeccably balanced wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RP

The 2000 Sorì Tildìn is like cashmere on the palate. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and spices flow effortlessly from this beautifully detailed, nuanced wine. The Sorì Tildìn shows attractive freshness and gorgeous balance from start to finish. It is easily one of the finer wines of the vintage.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGAmazing aromas of plums, strawberries, and minerals follow through to a full-bodied palate, with ultraripe tannins and a long, mineral and blackberry aftertaste. Gorgeous. So fresh and structured. Best after 2010. 1,050 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2000 Sori Tildin is like cashmere on the palate. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and spices flow effortlessly from this beautifully detailed, nuanced wine. The Sori Tildin shows attractive freshness and gorgeous balance from start to finish. It is easily one of the finer wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.Angelo Gaja’s 2000s are a bit of a mystery. The wines were absolutely beautiful upon release and equally impressive when I tasted them a few years later for the 7th edition of Parker’s Wine Buyers Guide. The 2000s were far less convincing when I tasted them in November 2010. All of the wines were initially very reticent and closed. After an hour or two in the glass they opened for about 30 minutes before closing back down again. Gaja thinks the wines are passing through a stage of inaccessibility. If anyone deserves the benefit of the doubt it is Gaja. I can’t remember the last older wine from this cellar that was a disappointment or that hadn’t aged well, and I have been privileged to taste the vast majority of wines that have been made here under Angelo Gaja’s tenure. Time will ultimately tell where these wines are headed, but this was not an especially flattering showing for Gaja’s 2000s. That said, most producers would be thrilled to have wines like these in their cellars. In some ways, Gaja is a victim of his own success. He sets such a high bar with his finest vintages; it is only natural to expect greatness all the time. The 2000s fall a bit short of that mark but are quite strong in the context of the year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

Another tricky vintage affected by hail and rain during the growing season, but saved by a stretch of sunshine at the end of the summer. This wine is herbaceous but delightful, very elegant and fine. It has delicate cherry lift on the nose, with subtle summer woodland notes. In the mouth it has an overt structure of milk chocolate tannins, framing juicy cherry fruit and hedgerow fruit. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 95 DECDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I thought this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged! Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I though this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged!Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is very balanced and refined with precise tannins and fresh acidity. Full to medium body with integrated tannins and a racy finish. Not as big and muscular as some Amarones from here but all in balance and length. Finesse. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSShows aromas of leather, smoked ham, prune, tarry mineral and dried flowers. An amazing panoply for a 2002, which was a weak vintage. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, intense, peppery finish. Given the difficulties of the vintage, this is a fine effort by Dal Forno. Drink now through 2016. 910 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSWinemaker Romano Dal Forno fearlessly confronted the soggy 2002 vintage with high extraction techniques and barrique aging (36 months). This is an inky, dense wine (more syrupy than it is vinous) with black currant, peppermill, chocolate fudge and big firm wood tannins. It is so monolithic, a viable food match is virtually impossible. As always, Dal Forno straddles a fine line between brilliance and exaggeration.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Monte Lodoletta Amarone is an exercise in extraction. The wine is absolutely black. Aromas are concentrated and intense and the wine is equally enormous in the mouth thanks to the extraction, oak, fruit and the hot climatic conditions associated with this vintage. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.All of these wines from Romano Dal Forno require significant aeration to show the true breadth of this passionate grower’s innovative style. Ideally the wines should be cellared for a minimum of a few years. Readers in search of short-term gratification are advised to open these bottles at least eight to ten hours before serving. This also holds for the Valpolicella, which has become an especially massive, structured wine after Dal Forno started producing it from 100% dried fruit in the 2002 vintage. Dal Forno favors 100% new American oak for his wines, although in recent years he has brought the aging regime down considerably.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThis has a great nose, with loads of peppery, meaty dried black fruit, fig and floral aromas, with an array of spices, fresh herbs and violet. Full-bodied, concentrated and chewy, with a long, intense finish. Built to age. Best after 2011. 940 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSDal Forno’s practice of using older parcels of vines for his Amarone paid off in 2003, with the more established plants able to better withstand the drought conditions of the vintage. This has aromas of dark, plummy fruit, while the palate pairs a rich mouthfeel with grippy tannins. It’s soft and very textured, with juicy blackberry followed by violet and wild herb overtones and a chocolatey finish. Surprisingly accessible considering its massive scale. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 94 DEC

Far more captivating, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino appears to have barely budged since it was released a few years back. Stylistically, the 2004 remains one of the more mid-weight vintages at Salvioni, yet it is so finessed. Remarkably fresh and nuanced, the 2004 has all the qualities that made it so appealing when it was a young wine. Everything is simply in the right place. What a gorgeous wine this is.Vinous Media | 97 VMSalvioni’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is made in a style that brilliantly reconciles a modern approach in the vineyards (tiny yields, full phenolic ripeness) with a traditional approach to winemaking (long macerations, cask aging). An explosive, super-ripe wine, this Brunello flows from the glass with mesmerizing richness and stunning balance. The gorgeous red fruit carries through all the way to the finish, where flowers, tobacco and spices add further complexity. In many ways, Salvioni’s Brunello di Montalcino is the region’s equivalent to Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Cascina Francia, a wine with which it shares many attributes. Simply put, this is a gem from Giulio Salvioni, and it is not to missed! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows aromas of clove, vanilla, blueberry and cherry. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a fruity, chewy tannin finish. Needs some bottle age to mellow a little. Best after 2011. 725 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

One of the highlights in the evening, the 2004 Solaia (magnum) is the first wine that represents a move towards more finesse and elegance. There is plenty of explosive richness, but the 2004 is also incredibly nuanced. Graphite, licorice, leather and layers of dark fruit build in a powerful yet incredibly refined Solaia. The 2004 is such a beautiful wine.Vinous Media | 97 VMAromas of currants, plums and hints of mint. Full-bodied, firm and silky with a dusty, tannic background. Very long and intense. Beautiful now but shows lots of life still.James Suckling | 97 JSThe thrilling 2004 Solaia (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc) is clearly one of the highlights of this great vintage. Endowed with massive amounts of concentration as well as structure, it is a big, powerful Solaia that does not sacrifice elegance or balance in its full-bodied personality. Packed with the essence of blackberries, chocolate, tar, smoke, cassis and menthol, this layered beauty exhibits great length and a persistent, warmly alcoholic finish. It has been stunning on the three occasions I have had it so far and is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows beautiful, complex aromas of flowers, currant and Christmas cake. Full-bodied, chewy and powerful. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2010. 5,830 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2004 Solaia is dense and concentrated with loads of character and defining aromatics: plump blackberry, chocolate fudge, exotic spice, peppercorn and smooth balsam notes. The real pleasure comes in the mouth where it delivers smooth elegance and an extra long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WENo written review provided. | 91 W&S

Still very young. Shows complex aromas of ripe fruit, blackberries, plums and currants. Polished, with soft tannins, a full body and a very long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSDisplays beautiful aromas of ripe fruit, with currant, plum and blackberry. This complex and full-bodied Tuscan red has soft, polished tannins and a long, long finish. Shows a deft hand in the winemaking. Best after 2012. 11,660 cases made, 2,440 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2005 Ornellaia opens with striking, compelling aromatics that draw the taster in. Still deep, rich and intense throughout, the 2005 has held up beautifully. Sweet herbs, tobacco, spices, sage and plums add shades of dimension to a core of super-ripe, exotic fruit that is one of the vestiges of a late-ripening vintage in which the fruit was allowed to hang until the very end. The 2005 remains an infant. It should drink well for another 15+ years.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe medium-bodied 2005 Ornellaia shows plenty of delineation in its dark cherries, blueberries, spices, minerals and crushed rocks. The 2005 doesn’t have the detail of the 2004 or the richness of the 2006, but it does offer notable finesse and clarity in an understated style for this wine. My impression is that this will be a relatively early-maturing vintage of Ornellaia, which is not a bad thing, considering the age-worthiness of the two vintages which surround it. In 2005 Ornellaia is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. It is a big success in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2005 Sorì San Lorenzo is superb. Here the personality of the year is perfectly matched to that of the site. A host of smoke, tar, graphite, incense, licorice and melted road tar are fused together. Powerful and explosive, with enough freshness to drink well for several decades, the 2005 is absolutely magnificent today. Gaja's Sorì San Lorenzo is a wine of real personality and pedigree.Vinous Media | 97 VMVery complex and layered nose, plus notes of pristine fresh leather, dried cherries and rose petals. Spices and savory tarry nuances. The palate has deeply layered tannins that are set like plaster. Really snappy and long, building chocolate and dark-cherry flavors into the finish. Majestic. A vast drinking window: now to 2030.James Suckling | 96 JSGaja’s 2005 Sori San Lorenzo is a dense, dark beauty of sensual, irresistible charm. This richly-textured, expansive wine flows with masses of ripe dark fruit, menthol, licorice and mineral in a sumptuous, full-bodied style. The use of oak is simply masterful here and the wine boasts extraordinary balance. I am not sure how he does it, but Angelo Gaja is easily Italy’s most consistently brilliant producer. For those who can afford it, this is another gem from Gaja. Readers should interpret my drinking windows with a large grain of salt. The 1990 Sor? San Lorenzo is still young, and the 1978 is amazingly fresh, so it is anyone’s guess as to when this wine might be actually “ready.” In the meantime, this wine is sure to provide enormous pleasure to those lucky enough to own it. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPYou cannot not love this wine: layered and intense with extraordinary integrity of fruit, it offers supple flavors of dark fruit, spice, tobacco and chocolate. It's dense, succulent and penetrating with polished tannins and long persistency. The palate becomes coated with opulence and richness: 5% Barbera is added. Drink 2015–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEVery pretty plum and strawberry aromas follow through to a full body, with ultrafine tannins and a long finish. A reserved, almost delicate style. But with air this gives you loads of luscious and beautiful fruit. Best after 2011. 800 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSGaja has made this single-vineyard wine since 1967. The '05 is as sleek and stunning as a Maserati on the outside, with ferocious power raging deep within. A blend of nebbiolo (95 percent) and barbera, a layer of sweet oak initially masks the fruit. As the wine opens, it becomes more refined, its ripe blackberry flavors and foresty coolness balancing the wood. A luxurious and aristocratic wine, this has the strength to cellar for a decade or more.Wine & Spirits | 94 W&S

This is a Masseto that is its own now with balance and harmony. It shows delicate chocolate and berry character with hints of hazelnut. Medium to full body. Long silky finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JSTasted next to the 2002, the 2005 Masseto is perhaps a bit edgier, with an extra kick of tannic intensity that gives the wine its sense of direction and a good kick of energy too. I very much admire the tension in the 2005, a wine built on freshness, aromatic depth and mid-weight structure. Cool, rainy weather towards the end of the season resulted in a late harvest that took place between September 14 and 30.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGFruit was picked later than normal and the Masseto Merlot does indeed show mature aromas of black cherry, ripe blackberry, earthy iron and polished stone. The intensity and purity are amazing and the wine is sophisticated, soft and very rich on the finish. It is already showing beautiful evolution in the glass.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2005 Masseto (Merlot) is simply gorgeous. A wine of extraordinary class and personality, it remains very primary in its dark fruit, licorice, cassis and toasted oak. It offers notable concentration and well-integrated tannins, all of which convey an impression of awesome harmony, finesse and balance. The tricky growing season seems to have been less of an issue for the Merlot, particularly in the old-vine Masseto Centrale vineyard. The 2005 Masseto has been superb every time I have tasted it thus far. As is often the case, the wine requires at least a few years of bottle age before it becomes approachable. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAn exotic bouquet reveals floral, spice, cherry compote and truffle elements. A Masseto that’s all about elegance, with a silky texture, wild berry fruit, firm tannins and bright acidity. This still has some tannins to give, but is delicious now. Fine length. Merlot.—Non-blind Masseto vertical (October 2017). Drink now through 2033. 2,660 cases made, 550 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Displays loads of mint, eucalyptus, currant and meat on the nose. Full-bodied, with masses of fruit, yet reserved and structured. Mouthpuckering now from all the tannins, but this will give incredible pleasure in years to come. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2014. 6,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThis fourth flight brings us into what I consider a real Golden Era for Solaia that started with the 2004. A young, potent wine, the 2006 Solaia out of magnum still needs quite a bit of time. Even so, its towering stature is evident. A rush of blackberry jam, grilled herbs, espresso, licorice and spice builds as the 2006 shows off its explosive energy and drive.Vinous Media | 96 VMA clarity and brilliance to this Solaia now with plums, light chocolate and meat. Full body and round and soft tannins. Juicy and delicious. Just right now where it shows the fruit and light tertiary qualities on the nose and palate. Excellent.James Suckling | 95 JSMostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese (with a small touch of Cabernet Franc), Solaia’s winning card is texture. The wine is soft, velvety and penetrating in the mouth with succulent flavors of blackberry, creamy cassis berry, chocolate and tobacco. Thick extraction and quality fruit craft a memorable wine that will last many long and happy years in your cellar.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe estate’s 2006 Solaia is a big, powerful offering loaded with ripe blackberry jam, herbs, minerals and French oak. Like all of the 2006s from Antinori, the Solaia remains extraordinarily dense and primary. Readers will have to be patient with this wine and give it plenty of bottle age before the full range of its aromas and nuances blossom fully. Solaia is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026.Robert Parker | 94 RP

The 2007 Montevetrano is the product of an unusual vintage characterized by hot temperatures that were virtually uninterrupted throughout the year. Bright red fruit, flowers and spices are some of the nuances that emerge from this silky, beautifully balanced Montevetrano. The combination of explosive ripe fruit, richness and finesse are utterly breathtaking. The warmth of the vintage comes through in the wine’s generosity, yet there are no suggestions whatsoever of over- ripeness. This is a magnificent Montevetrano.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThe 2007 Montevetrano suggests a more prominent presence of Cabernet Sauvignon, aromatically speaking, compared to the other wines in this mini retrospective. The percentage of grapes used is the same but this impression is reinforced by the warmth of the summer growing season and the exuberance of the fruit. Blackberry aromas are followed by spice, leather and tar. There are subtle notes of balsam herb and green peppercorn as well. The wine is structured and firm but not astringent. The tannins are softly integrated and fine in texture.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPDark and sappy, with tightly wound layers of black currant, blackberry and plum skin. Hints of underbrush, ash and smoke are framed by firm tannins, which need time to resolve. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico. Best from 2013 through 2021.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Blueberry and lemon aromas follow through to a full body, with firm and racy tannins and a delicate finish. This is refined and polished. Drink after 2013.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2007 Langhe Conteisa is impeccably ripe and silky on the palate, with expressive La Morra red fruits, flowers, mint and spices that emerge from the glass. This is another soft, seamless wine from Gaja, with gorgeous purity in the fruit that carries through all the way to the deeply satisfying, creamy finish. The tannins remain impeccably refined and beautifully balanced with the fruit. The wine is likely to firm up a touch in bottle, but it should be one of the most accessible of Gaja’s 2007s. The 2007 is easily among the finest Conteisas ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPFull medium red. Rather unforthcoming but mellow aromas of plum, mocha and licorice. Silky on entry, then more tightly wound toward the back in spite of its plush, layered texture. Lovely raspberry, spice and underbrush flavors blast through the building, granular tannins on the long aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Giacosa’s 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is flamboyant, exotically ripe and stunning in its absolute beauty. Bright red cherry fruit, rose petal, violet and mint abound in a spellbinding, utterly thrilling Barbaresco. I have always adored the 2007. Once again, it is pure magic.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThis will be in the market in 2012. This is full and rich with irresistible silky tannins. This brings more substance and richness than the white label. Lay this down until 2016. 10,000 bottles.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a massive, towering wine of majestic proportions. Everything comes together in the glass; expressive aromatics, striking fruit, powerful yet silky tannins and a long, impeccable finish. This complex, kaleidoscopic Barbaresco is a wine for the ages. The Riserva Asili is a surprisingly powerful wine from this vineyard. Readers will have to wait until 2011, when the wine is released, to taste this utterly profound Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2037.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPBursting with sweet cherry, floral, licorice and spice flavors, this ripe red is expressive, supple, balanced and dense, showing the structure to age and a finish of fig and tobacco notes. Best from 2016 through 2030. 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2008 Sori Tildin is impressive. I confess I wasn't quite prepared for the assault of fruit and tannins here. Sori Tildin is so often a graceful, elegant wine, but that is not the case in 2008. That's not to say elegance is missing, but this is a big, big wine with tons of intensity and richness, all woven together beautifully. It's tough to find a comparison with a previous vintage, as this is a pretty singular Tildin. The flavors are familiar if a touch on the dark side, but the structure is closer than that of Sori San Lorenzo. Flowers, tar, leather and licorice wrap around the palate. This is a fabulous showing and a great wine in the making.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe 2008 Sori Tildin is impressive. I confess I wasn’t quite prepared for the assault of fruit and tannins here. Sori Tildin is so often a graceful, elegant wine, but that is not the case in 2008. That’s not to say elegance is missing, but this is a big, big wine with tons of intensity and richness, all woven together beautifully. It’s tough to find a comparison with a previous vintage, as this is a singular Tildin. The flavors are familiar if a touch on the dark side, but the structure is closer than that of Sori San Lorenzo. Flowers, tar, leather and licorice wrap around the palate. This is a fabulous showing and a great wine in the making. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.This is a stunning set of wines from Angelo Gaja and his team in Barbaresco. Those who think 2008 is a truly great year for Nebbiolo must have tasted these wines. In a vintage that is inconsistent across the villages of Barbaresco, Gaja has produced not one but four stellar wines. As fabulous as these wines are, they aren’t especially true to type, as I explain in these notes. The 2008s I tasted in the US showed far better than the bottles I tasted in Barbaresco during the summer. Perhaps the onset of the cool fall weather gave these wines a little more spine than they had during the sweltering heat of August. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Gaja may want to take a look at my video interview with Gaia Gaja and vineyard manager Giorgio Culasso.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPEspresso, plum, black cherry and toast aromas and flavors mark this powerful, muscular red, which is angular and out of sorts today, but dense and grainy, with a firm, tannic structure. The oak dominates the finish, so give this time. Best from 2015 through 2032. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Like its sunshine-inspired name suggests, Solaia is an opulent and generous achievement that represents the highest pedigree in Italian wine. The intensity is mind-blowing and the wine peels back slowly to reveal thick layers of blackberry, chocolate fudge, spice and general fruit decadence. The mouthfeel is super smooth yet powerful, delivered in the most elegant fashion.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2009 Solaia is one of the clear standouts of the vintage. Freshly cut flowers, raspberries, spices, mint and licorice burst from the glass as this fabulous, viscerally thrilling wine shows off its pure class. Today the oak is a bit prominent, but that won’t be an issue by the time the wine is ready to drink. In one of my blind tastings, the 2009 Solaia was flat-out great. There is no shortage of pedigree here. The 2009 has calmed down a little from its youth, when it was a much more exuberant wine, and has now begun to close down in bottle. Solaia is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc from a single parcel within the Antinori family’s Tignanello vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.Longtime winemaker Renzo Cotarella has done a fabulous job with the flagships Tignanello and Solaia in 2009. In my blind tastings the pedigree of those two wines in particular came through with notable eloquence. The 2010 Tignanello and Solaia are both thrilling at this stage. They could very well turn out even better than the 2009s. Readers may want to look at my short video on the 2010s from Antinori on our website.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPAnother rich, sumptuous wine, the 2009 Solaia (magnum) is stellar. Opulent and expansive on the palate, with tremendous resonance, the 2009 is radiant, yet it benefits quite a bit from the large format, which helps preserve a measure of freshness. Red cherry/raspberry jam, spice, new French oak and floral notes build into the dense, beautifully layered finish.Vinous Media | 96 VMA pretty red, boasting floral, cherry, black currant, chocolate and spice aromas and flavors. The firm structure is assertive now, both acidity and tannins, but the sweet fruit and spice flavors persist and grace the long finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2015 through 2030. 7,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSPlums and chocolate plus hints of rose petals on the nose. Full-bodied and very ripe — almost raisiny. Spicy and intense with so much fruit and energy. Bigger style. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

It started in 1993, with 3ha of vineyards; now Buglioni has 54ha. This riserva is made only in the best vintages, with the best hand-picked grapes. Aged for 30 months in tonneaux, it has tertiary notes of balsam, dry leaves, sweet tobacco and jam. Bramble fruits and summer-fruit pudding surround the taste buds. Intense, elegant and poised, with great length and huge structure. Try it with bitter chocolate or enjoy it on its own. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 96 DECInviting aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, new leather, cocoa and forest floor emerge from the glass. The concentrated palate doles out black currant jam, licorice, black pepper and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WESome 3,570 bottles were made and each one is numbered. In some parts of the Valpolicella, 2010 was considered a difficult vintage, but not here. The 2010 Amarene della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Teste Dure is extracted, inky and soft. The wine is showing some maturity and evolution, with licorice and tar behind primary notes of dried blackberry, plum and raisin. I would suggest a slightly reduced drinking window as a result, maybe pairing it alongside lamb with balsamic reduction. The next time this Riserva was made was 2015, and the folks at Buglioni have been experimenting with whole-cluster fermentations and amphorae aging too. So far, they are happy with the results, so we will surely see these methods used in upcoming releases.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIntense soy-sauce and cooked-plum nose that won’t be for everyone, but on the palate this is rich and silky. Good length. Drink now with mature hard cheeses.James Suckling | 91 JS

Brilliant garnet and streamlined in appearance, the 2010 Barolo Bricco Rocche is understated, eloquent and extremely elegant. The magic was lost in the warmer 2009 edition, but the 2010 expression aspires to the highest level of Nebbiolo craftsmanship. This wine is like a musical prelude: Those soft harmonies that build in momentum and volume before the whole symphony begins. Barolo Bricco Rocche needs more time before it reaches it optimal drinking window. It’s music to my ears. Drink: 2017-2035.Ceretto delivers a seamless performance in 2010 with an impressive succession of top scoring wines across its various vineyard designates. The 2009 lineup showed less consistency, but the 2010 Ceretto wines are nothing short of irresistible.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPSweet tobacco, freshly cut flowers, rose petals and sweet red berries, all framed by silky tannins are the signatures in Ceretto’s 2010 Barolo Bricco Rocche. Graced with exquisite finesse, the Bricco Rocche offers a little more textural polish than the Prapò at this early stage. At the same time, elements of intrigue remain, suggesting the 2010 isn’t showing all of its cards just yet. Overall, this is a fairly dark Barolo for the site at this stage, although the wine does open up very nicely with time in the glass. Sweet floral and spice notes are woven into the finish. Today, the Bricco Rocche is the most elusive of Ceretto’s 2010s. I can’t wait to see how it ages.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGA young Barolo with complexity and style. Reserved and held back. Full body, with layers of lightly chewy yet polished tannins. It unfolds on your palate. All in finesse. Better in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThis is spicy and elegant, with savory notes of tobacco and tar surrounding the core of sweet cherry and licorice. Firm and lean, featuring tea and mineral accents on the finish. Complex and refined overall. Best from 2018 through 2032. 140 cases made, 12 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSBlack cherry, red raspberry, oak, espresso, coffee, white pepper and sage sensations take center stage on this tightly wound red. The nervous acidity needs time to soften, and the astringent wood tannins leave a drying finish. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Another dark, intense wine, the 2011 Ornellaia boasts superb depth, richness and power. Here, too, the 2011 has tightened up quite a bit over the last six months. Today, the searing tannins are quite prominent, giving the 2011 an element of gravitas and muscle that argues for cellaring. How long? I am not sure, but the 2011 is built for the long haul. Savory herbs, new leather, menthol and cloves resonate on the huge finish.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThis shows incredible concentration with dark-berry, dark-chocolate, mint and rosemary character. Full body with a superb depth of fruit and polished tannins. It's chewy but caressing. This needs at least four or five years to come around. Powerful and intense. Yet it remains fresh and bright.James Suckling | 96 JSA dark and inky red, featuring violet, black currant, cedar, sandalwood and iron aromas and flavors. Nonetheless, this comes across as elegant, even as the tannins prove formidable on the finish. A terrific young wine in the making. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2017 through 2035. 2,200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2011 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia lives up to the legacy of this important wine, thanks to its extreme intensity and its skillfully crafted bouquet. The excellent quality of fruit stands clear, despite the heat of the vintage, with pristine notes of dark cherry, exotic spice and chocolate. This expression of Ornellaia is composed of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. The results are nothing short of exuberant and this vintage will reward both those who decided to drink it early, as well as those who have the patience to wait. The only slight ruffle in this otherwise gorgeous presentation is the 2011 tannin that feels a touch aggressive. For that reason, its probably better to put the wine aside in your cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAnother impressive effort from the celebrated Ornellaia estate. it opens with aromas of black berries, plum, blue flower and hints of balsamic herbs. The rich palate delivers a core of fleshy black cherry accented with notes of licorice, black pepper and mocha alongside bracing but refined tannins. It's still young so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2016–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2011 Barolo Ravera is once again the most vibrant and nuanced of the Vietti Barolos. Freshly cut flowers, crushed rocks, mint and bright red stone fruits are all shaped by a very classic sense of mineral-inflected drive that is such a Ravera signature. The 2011 is a more than worthy follow up to the epic 2010. It’s great to see this high-altitude district in Novello finally getting its due.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe 2011 Barolo Ravera opens to a pretty garnet color and dark ruby luminosity. The wine delivers tight concentration and a fine texture that adheres closely to the palate. Blackberry, cassis, spice, leather and tobacco emerge from the glass. Barolo Ravera also offers an earthy tone of white truffle or porcino mushroom. Soft oak density and thick fruit extract give the wine beautiful, full-bodied appeal. Give it ten more years of cellar aging to lose the baby fat.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA soft and velvety red with plum, hazelnut and chocolate character. Full body, round tannins and a fresh finish. Very attractive young wine. Better in 2017.James Suckling | 93 JSEngaging scents of wild berry, rose petal, aromatic herb and spice lead the nose. The full-bodied palate slowly reveals red cherry, anise, black pepper, clove and tobacco framed in assertive tannins and bright acidity. Give this time to fully open and develop. Drink 2019–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WECherry and plum flavors permeate this rich, powerful red. Accented by menthol and leather, this is balanced and fresh, with a lingering aftertaste of mineral and tobacco. Best from 2019 through 2032.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A luscious red with dried berry, cherry and hints of cedar and tea. Full body, fine and velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish. This is compacted and tight with great depth. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2012 Colore is on the market now. Production of 2013 and 2014 was skipped, and the next vintage we shall see (very soon) is 2015, which is also reviewed in this report. This vintage produced large berry sizes for Sangiovese—something Bibi Graetz is always happy to see because it is an indicator of elegance and finesse within the context of the house style. If you consider this wine, his observation makes perfect sense. This warm vintage is powerful and rich in its natural state, so any additional berry density might easily lead to overextraction and heaviness. However, the mouthfeel is objectively thinner and more compact in this vintage. Colore represents a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. The bouquet is redolent of wild berry, dried cherry and toasted spice. This vintage offers a very attractive mineral note as well. Fruit is selected from three of Bibi Graetz’s favorite vineyards with ancient vines: Lamole (in Chianti Classico), Vincigliata and Siena. Only 5,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPMuscular and concentrated, yet with a sense of elegance derived from vibrant acidity, this red displays black cherry, blackberry, leather, iron and tobacco flavors. Consistent from the start to the long finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2020 through 2028. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA tricky year with a very hot dry summer that resulted in low yields, but also marked by a wet September. The sour-cherry nose is fresh and lively. It’s medium-bodied but still quite concentrated, and while no blockbuster, it has density. It lacks some flesh and weight of fruit, resulting in a somewhat hollow mid-palate, but it’s attractive and already drinking well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 90 DEC

Underbrush, new leather, wild herb and dark-skin berry aromas meld with balsamic whiffs of eucalyptus. The full-bodied firmly structured palate evokes raspberry compote, black cherry marinated in spirits, tobacco and star anise set against a backbone of close-grained tannins. This will age for decades. Drink 2023–2043.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2013 Sugarille is more classic in style than the Rennina yet is still a ripe, sexy beast of a Brunello. Ripe cherries, red currants, spice, and balsamic notes all flow to a concentrated, medium to full-bodied effort that has nicely integrated acidity, solid mid-palate depth, and enough ripe tannins to keep it drinking nicely for 10-15+ years or more. It’s a beautiful wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDDeep red-ruby. Delicate aromas of flinty red cherry and herbs complicated by hints of mocha and lifted by a bright violet topnote. Dense, rich and concentrated but light on its feet, offering a very polished mouthfeel thanks to serious but noble tannins that nicely frame the refined, steely red fruit flavors. Finishes long and very elegant. Just like the 2013 Brunello Rennina, this also has 15% alcohol but is so well balanced that you can hardly tell (unlike with the Rennina). Knockout young Brunello from Gaja, one of the very best in memory.Vinous Media | 95+ VMA very aromatic red. Typical sangiovese aromas of cherry and rose petal with hints of bark. Full body, firm and silky tannins. A racy linear line runs through it. Tight and firm now. Give it two or three years to soften.James Suckling | 94 JSThe single-vineyard 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille has a tighter core and a blacker heart compared to the Rennina. This wine is momentarily more difficult to penetrate and comprehend. It makes a more abrupt first impression but then relaxes and reveals more of its character only after it has spent extra time in your company. Then, it becomes suddenly exuberant and loud. This is a dynamic expression of Sangiovese with bold ripe fruit, spice and balsam notes to carry it forward during cellar aging. This vintage offers firmness and strength. Some 20,000 bottles were produced (of both Sugarille and Rennina, respectively).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA mix of sweet plum, cherry, bouillon and graphite aromas and flavors, all backed by a solid structure, this is dense and tightly wound, with terrific balance and a long, focused finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This is a very sleek and racy wine with lots of stone, white-pepper and fresh-rosemary character. Then it takes off with dried ripe fruits such as currants and blueberries. Dark chocolate, too. This a real mouthful yet remains agile and powerful. Linear and long finish. Great precision. Best ever from Guado al Tasso?James Suckling | 97 JSThis is a fantastic wine. The 2013 Bolgheri Superiore Guado Al Tasso reveals soaring aromas of dark fruit, plum, blackberry, savory spice, tobacco and leather. The results are seamless, harmonious and generous in intensity. This is the quintessential red blend from Coastal Tuscany (made with 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot) and the 2013 vintage is particularly rooted in a profound sense of place. I am reminded of the macchia mediterranea, or Mediterranean shrub, that grows so wild and free in this relatively untouched part of Tuscany. This is an excellent wine that shows its winemaking pedigree, but make no mistake: It is a proud Tuscan at heart. Some 140,000 bottles are produced (which is pretty amazing considering the quality).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPAntinori’s 2013 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is ripe, voluptuous and racy, with striking aromatics that sit on top of a core of voluptuous, racy fruit. A classic Bolgheri wine, Guado al Tasso offers plenty of rich, sumptuous fruit and textural resonance. A good dose of new French oak (from a move towards Taransaud and François Frères barrels) adds raciness and toasty notes, but those characteristics marry nicely with the expression of fruit that is so typical of the Tuscan coast. Rose petal, lavender and new leather add striking aromatic lift as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2013 is a terrific Guado al Tasso.Vinous Media | 95 VMA bit reticent, with black cherry, black currant and herb flavors married to a supple texture and fine-grained tannins. The long finish shows promise, but this will need a few years to flesh out. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2018 through 2027. 750 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 94 WSMade with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a drop of Petit Verdot, this polished linear red has aromas of black-skinned fruit, bell pepper, coconut and toasted oak. The vibrant, elegantly structured palate offers black currant, chopped herb, clove and licorice alongside fine-grained tannins. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThere is a softer, sweeter feel on display here than with the other two Guado al Tasso vintages in this tasting - the 2007 and 2001. That is the result of a 2013 vintage that was cooler overall, despite a warm summer. Some extra leaf thinning was required to help grapes reach full ripeness, but the end result is beautifully balanced. This wine is still intense, full-framed and powerful, but with a caress of rich chocolate and violet notes, and a silky in texture. The team used 2% Petit Verdot to complete the blend.Decanter | 92 DECNotes of toasted nuts, licorice and dark chocolate enrich this wine’s flavors of blackberry and cassis, giving a lush impression that’s tightened by firm tannins. The fruit feels soft and ripe, on the edge of stewed, with a warm and spicy finish that calls for pairing with braised beef.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 92 W&S

Gaja's 2013 Sperss is fabulous. Deep and powerful, yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2013 hits all the right notes. Graphite, game, smoke, licorice, plum, black cherry and dark spice are some of the signatures, but as is always the case with the best vintages, Sperss is a wine of vertical intensity and muscle. The 2013 won't be anywhere near ready to drink for a number of years. All the pedgiree and character of these Serralunga sites come through in an exceptionally beautiful and vivid Barolo from Gaja.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe gem of the 2013s is the 2013 Barolo Sperss which comes from limestone-dominated soils. The 2013 is deep, concentrated, and structured, with a fabulous sense of minerality in its black cherry, leafy herbs, damp earth, and licorice aromas and flavors. From a late, cool vintage, it has awesome purity of fruit, plenty of tannins, and a huge finish. It’s a brilliant wine any way you look at it. I’d happily drink this elixir today, but it deserves at least 3-4 years and will keep for 25+.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDAmazing aromas of cherries, oranges and light prunes with hints of wet earth and mushrooms. Very perfumed. It's medium-bodied, firm and direct. Great vino. Needs at least five years to come together but already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 96 JSThis wine shows the quintessential attributes of the Serralunga d'Alba appellation with dark fruit flavors and powerful intensity. The 2013 Barolo Sperss paints a very authentic picture of its unique territory with rich layers of black fruit, wet earth, black truffle, licorice and spice. The wine's tannic structure is firm and lasting. It shows broad shoulders and rich texture overall. This beautiful Barolo boasts a dark color and thick concentration with the aromatic elegance obtained in the 2013 vintage. This important wine is now part of the Barolo DOCG family.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPUnderbrush, toast, menthol, grilled herb and star anise aromas lead the way. Firmly structured but loaded with finesse, the taut palate delivers Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and a toasted note while assertive, close-grained tannins provide the framework. It's still young and austere so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WETextbook rose, tar and cherry aromas and flavors, with accents of oak spice, licorice and tobacco, are the hallmarks of this complex red. Powerful yet harmonious, showing fine structure and a lingering finish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 375 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The highlight in this range, the exquisite 2014 Tignanello is all about persistence and understated class. The aromatics alone are captivating. Sculpted, finely delineated flavors add to the wine’s vivid personality. Because of the challenges posed by the growing season, the blend leans more heavily toward Cabernet Sauvignon than is typically the case. Above all else, though, the 2014 is all about harmony, and there is plenty of that here. Unfortunately, production is down 30%.Vinous Media | 96 VMExotic spice, cedar, purple flower, forest floor and wild berry are some of the aromas you’ll find in this fragrant, focused red. It’s loaded with finesse, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cassis, star anise and white pepper with remarkable precision. It’s fresh and balanced by vibrant acidity and elegant, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2029.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEReally pretty aromas of currants and roses follow through to a medium body, firm and silky tannins and a fresh finish. Very well done for 2014 and a wonderful Tignanello to drink now or later. Better in 2019.James Suckling | 94 JSTignanello has this amazing ability of always being, well, Tignanello. Its very DNA makes it among the most distinctive and recognizable wines in the world. I’m happy to report that this is also the case for the 2014 Tignanello that faced very different growing conditions compared to most. The wine is beautiful and balanced with sweet tannins and a supporting oak texture that is neatly folded at the back. The wine is all about measure and proportion, and it aspires to these goals with an impressive sense of natural harmony. This is not an overtly powerful or muscular expression. Instead, it shows a tasty, almost savory form of elegance. This vintage was made with 75% Sangiovese, which means that the Cabernet presence is a tad bigger than normal. Ultimately, this wine is more finessed and delicate, and I appreciate the careful tannic management on display here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA fresh, linear style, displaying cherry, iron, earth and spice flavors on a slim frame. Fine length.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2021 through 2035. 5,000 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Woodland berry, blue flower, sunbaked soil and a whiff of dark spice shape the nose. Structured and extremely elegant, the focused, impeccable palate doles out juicy red cherry, strawberry, baking spice and star anise set against taut polished tannins that provide seamless support. It’s well balanced, with fresh acidity. It’s already tempting but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2022–2032. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEA combination of savory and fruit elements, this red reveals cherry, berry, eucalyptus, menthol, tar and mineral flavors. Firms up, with monolithic tannins locking this tight. Patience is required. Best from 2023 through 2042. 900 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 95 WSA rich and layered Barbaresco with cedar and plums, as well as light leather and rose aromas that follow to a full yet balanced palate and a chewy finish. Very polished. Drink in 2020, but already beautiful.James Suckling | 95 JSGaja’s 2015 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Deep, pliant and resonant, the 2015 exudes class from the very first taste. Today, the aromatics are not especially open or expressive, but it is the wine’s depth and overall sense of harmony that really carry the day. Hints of orange peel, spice and rosewater give the 2015 an exotic aromatic top register that is hugely appealing. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this gem. The 2015 is a wonderfully complete and harmonious wine, but it really does need a few years in the cellar to fully unwind.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2015 Barbaresco was to be bottled a week after I tasted this sample for review. Gaia Gaja was waiting for the right moon before commencing bottling. This vintage is not unlike the 2005 growing season that saw a good amount of rain in spring and scorching heat in the summer. The risk of downy mildew made vintners extra vigilant. Although the 2015 vintage was not ideal for color fixing Nebbiolo (indeed, this wine is slightly less intense in terms of its color saturation), it did prove an important year for power, structure and dry extract. This is a full and generous expression with a fine, loose texture and rich fruit flavors.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPClassic Nebbiolo perfume of violet and raspberry, followed by red cranberry and cherry fruit. Sweet, slightly creamy oak; this is approachable and – although it lacks the depth of the single vineyard wines – it’s still impressively long with gorgeous charm. (Drink between 2018-2032)Decanter | 92 DEC