Rare Italians

wines

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta keeps me at the edge of the glass to take in its darkly alluring bouquet of dusty black currants and dried flowers, with hints of blood orange offset by sweet rose. While currently youthful and understated, it continues to open and deepen with each swirl. This is silky and cool-toned in feel, savory to the core, with a dense wave of mineral-tinged dark red fruits carried across a core of vibrant acidity. Autumnal spices form toward the close. The 2016 is inward and saturating, building in fine tannins that clench the palate through the finale, promising a long, long life. This is a masterpiece in the making, and while already bottled, it will not be released until 2023. Production was again down by 50% in 2016 due to hail.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMReleased after the 2017 vintage, because it was decided that this dense, concentrated vintage would benefit from more time in the bottle, the 2016 is fuller and broader in the shoulders compared to the 2017 Amarone. There’s more of everything – body, concentration, tannic presence, richness, spiciness...And while there’s a reductive note of petrichor, its aromatics still soar, carrying wafts of wild black fruits and balsam out of the glass. Enticing already, its future looks very bright indeed.Decanter | 98 DECThe 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta takes wine intensity to almost unthinkable levels. That’s the magic of this estate, and without a doubt, this wine occupies a category that makes it totally unique on the Italian wine scale. Made with a traditional blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina and 10% Oseleta (aged in French and American new oak for two years), the wine feels even richer, bolder and more concentrated in this classic vintage. That general intensity is applied to the tightly wound and firm tannins as well. The alcohol reading is 16.5%. This Amarone hits the market in 2023, but you’d do well to age it for another decade at least. Black fruit, baked plum, tobacco, soy sauce, grilled herb and sweet spice are generously folded into the wine’s full-bodied texture. The 2016 vintage saw 17,000 bottles created.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

Another astounding wine from Allegrini, if you didn’t buy Fiermonte last year here’s a chance to buy something just as good. The most gorgeous nose; full of flowers, chocolate truffles, red fruits and dried berries - fragranced and just so inviting, also so pure. The texture and mouthfeel are just perfect - round, enveloping, the perfect weight to give structure and body with intensity and fleshiness yet nothing is over the top or too much. Delicious crunchy and fleshy fruit, wonderful minty freshness with accents of incense fragrance, wood spice and exotic spices before a lingering chalky finish with an underlying saltiness. Pure, precise, clearly defined, juicy, totally moreish. What more can you ask for? A little less friendly and overtly charming than the 2015 at the same time last year, this carries more muscle, opulence, power and boldness but it has exceptional forward motion and freshness. It delights and enthralls in equal measure from the first sip! Just wow! A blend of 45% Corvina, 45% Corvinone, 5% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta.Decanter | 100 DECThe 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Fieramonte captivates. It opens with a minty freshness complicated by hints of tangerine and dill, giving way to mentholated black cherries and a dusting of cocoa. This is cool-toned and sleek, with a measured inner sweetness and racy acidity to balance. Polished red and blue fruits sweep across the palate with ease, leaving a bitter tinge of espresso and mocha that resonates toward the close. Tactile mineral tones ground the experience to the earth just as a web of fine-grained tannins settles in, leaving a classically dry tension. The 2016 finishes with tremendous length and potency. Allegrini continues to take the Fieramonte to new heights, and while many producers in Valpolicella prefer their 2015s over their 2016s, I must say, the balance here is otherworldly. This is not to be missed.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe Allegrini 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Fieramonte is skewed tight and buttoned up in terms of its intensity and its consistency. This balance is quite an achievement, and of course, we have the fabulous 2016 vintage to celebrate here. A year with classic weather patterns and no major challenges, the wine offers black cherry, plum, spice, leather and cured tobacco. The results are modern and contemporary with smooth tannins and a generous, full-weight finish. I love the seamless quality of this cellar-worthy wine. The alcohol is high at 16.5%, and only 5,000 bottles were made (hitting the market in fall 2023).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2016 is bold on the opening with concentrated blackberry aromas giving way to macerated Bing cherries all coated in allspice, vanilla and hint of savory spices. As the wine develops, drying violets and dark-earth notes waft up. The palate is full in body with concentrated baked plums with cocoa and chalk finishing with firm tannins and lifted acidity. Drink 2028–2050.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEBrings a sense of finesse to an otherwise rich and concentrated, full-bodied red. Offers taut, fine-grained tannins as a firm frame, wrapped with a silky texture and flavors of mulled black cherry, cured tobacco, dried fig, cocoa powder and a zesty touch of cracked pink peppercorn. Long, fragrant finish. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. Drink now through 2039. 1,000 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA cooler year in a recent context. This cuvee (single vineyard) was made from 1965 to 1985, before the vineyard was infected with esca. The vineyard was then rejuvenated and the Fieramonte was revived from 2011. A rich, avuncular, throaty wine after four-years in 225L barriques. The grapes are dried for 130-140 days which is very long, even in the context of the region. Loads of residual sugar at the initial, spontaneous fermentation, before inoculation drags it to a palate-staining dryness. A big wine loaded with extract, dark fruits, menthol and anise. Very impressive. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS