Rare Italians

wines

Earthy aromas of truffle, underbrush, rose and new leather shape the nose along with scents of dark-skinned berry and eucalyptus. Full bodied and youthfully tense, the savory palate delivers crushed black cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and tobacco set against tightly knit, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAfter skipping over the 2014 vintage, Salvioni comes out swinging with the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola. This is a classic Brunello, with one foot firmly planted in a sense of place and the other in varietal purity. You really can’t ask for more in a world-class Brunello such as this, hailing from a highly ranked vintage. Thanks to the sunny and warm growing season, the fiber and texture of this wine is a little looser and thicker compared to the cooler 2013 vintage. This beautiful wine, by contrast, delivers a knockout blow of saturated color loaded with dark cherry and blackberry aromas, all backed by spice, potting soil, crushed rocks, iron ore, ash, violets and blood orange. There is a subtle point of softness or sweetness on the finish that is a signature of this vintage. This champion of a release weighed in at 15,355 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPAn earthy display of mineral-encased red fruits and wild herbs lifts from the glass, as the bouquet of the 2015 Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino evolves into a dark mix of ripe black cherry and dusty spices with overarching floral notes. On the palate, soft, enveloping ripe red fruits open up in an unexpectedly approachable and alluring display, with hints of sweet spice and inner florals. With more time, the flavors turn more to the savory spectrum, adding hints of dried herbs, with cascading minerals, all pushed forward by brisk acidity. The finish is long, as its staining red fruits are offset by zesty spices and acids, revealing just a hint of fine tannin beneath it all. This is an especially forward and easy-to-like expression of Salvioni, which I’m tempted to start drinking early, yet there’s enough primary fruit and acids to carry it over the medium term in the cellar.Vinous Media | 96 VM(La Cerbaiola di Salvioni, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, Red) When I was tasting with Alessia Salvioni in 2017, she described 2015 as picture perfect - the biggest challenge was keeping the wild boar from eating the berries. She also noted that the unrelenting warmth (even at night) made for less perfumed wines. Now bottled, Salvioni’s 2015 is just as dense and concentrated as it was from cask. It also still possesses a pronounced, appetising iodine character along with an earthy savouriness. At first, finessed tannins seem like an afterthought but they sneak up and promise plenty of ageing potential. (Drink between 2022-2035)Decanter | 95 DECFresh, featuring flavors of ripe cherry, strawberry, Mediterranean herbs and loam. Finishes with firm tannins, but feels harmonious, in a youthful way. Salty, minerally elements linger. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,250 cases made, 125 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

This stunning red opens with a captivating fragrance of perfumed berry, rose, sandalwood and aromatic herb. Smooth, elegant and delicious, the intense palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and baking spice while a menthol note lingers on the close. Taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity give it great tension and balance. Drink 2023–2035. Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThis stunning red opens with a captivating fragrance of perfumed berry, rose, sandalwood and aromatic herbs. Smooth, elegant and delicious, the intense palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and baking spice, while a menthol note lingers on the close. Taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity give it great tension and balance. Drink 2023–2035. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2015 Barolo Acclivi represents a blend of Nebbiolo from various hilltop sites in Verduno that have been selected for the quality of their fruit. The wine takes the concept of a Barolo "base" up one notch, because it represents a special selection of fruit that is not limited to a single parcel. This expression is grounded and even a bit heavier at its core, with more dark fruit and thickness that becomes its defining characteristic. This is especially true in a vintage like 2015 that already starts off with robust and sun-darkened fruit. The wine is not necessarily more accessible—because it is not—but it does offer a thicker caliber of Nebbiolo fruit.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2015 Barolo Acclivi is another stellar wine from Fabio Alessandria and Burlotto and is a blend of fruit from Monvigliero, Rocche dell’ Olmo and Neirane, all in Verduno. Bright, perfumed and silky on the palate, the Acclivi is a jewel of a wine. Floral notes appear in the glass, adding lift, perfume and sensuality. All the elements are in the right place. Today, Burlotto’s Cannubi and Monvigliero have become hard to find, but savvy readers will want to focus on the Acclivi, a wine that offers superb quality for the money. Another few years in bottle should help some of the fruit soften.Vinous Media | 94 VMJuicy, featuring cherry, strawberry, woodsy spice and tobacco aromas and flavors. Elegant, with firm, dry tannins. The terrific length echoes the fruit and spice elements. Best from 2022 through 2038. 660 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis shows purity and brightness of fruit with cherry and ripe strawberry character. Medium body, integrated tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Very pretty. Drink from 2022.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2015 Barolo Cannubi is another dizzying wine from Burlotto. A rush of dark cherry, plum, hard candy licorice, violet and spice all hit the palate. Powerful and vertical in the glass, the Cannubi simply has it all. I would give the 2015 a good bit of time to shed some of its considerable baby fat. Powerful, dense and packed, the Cannubi is not as showy or seductive as the Monvigliero, but it has so much to offer, especially with a bit of bottle age. What a magnificent wine it is!Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2015 Barolo Cannubi is a very delicate and streamlined expression that puts one little foot forward in front of the next with timid steps before it starts to pick up speed and find its stride. That slow start is important to the character and quality of the wine because it means that you will find something a little different each time you put your nose to the glass. I like the wine better each time I go back to the glass. I’m sure I will love it even more five to ten years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPA pretty red, this exhibits floral, strawberry, raspberry and white pepper aromas and flavors. Firms up quickly, offering a refined and present tannic backbone. This hangs together very nicely and lingers. Best from 2022 through 2038. 333 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSAromas of dried strawberries, orange peel and rose petals. Complex. Full body, super silky tannins with juicy acidity and a savory undertone. Needs time to open. Always a beautiful Cannubi. Try in 2022.James Suckling | 94 JSAromas of menthol, eucalyptus and dark skinned cherry form the nose. Lithe and linear, the taut palate offers Marasca cherry, strawberry, clove and crushed mint alongside tight, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOAromas of menthol, eucalyptus and dark-skinned cherry form the nose. Lithe and linear, the taut palate offers Marasca cherry, strawberry, clove and crushed mint alongside tight, refined tannins and fresh acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis historic estate based in Verduno is renowned for its Monvigliero bottling, but in 2015 its Cannubi from the village of Barolo seems even finer. The nose is sweet, floral and lifted, with no trace of overripeness. Initially sleek, the palate grows in austerity, which is often a characteristic of this wine. But this grip and structure are welcome and don’t dominate the spiciness and persistence of the fruit. Very long.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2015 Cabernet Alzero is loaded with varietal character, bursting from the glass with a dark blend of black fruits, savory herbs, pencil lead and crushed stone. This is velvety smooth, with juicy acidity to balance and a core of mineral-tinged red and blue fruits complemented by confectionary spice. It leaves the palate reeling with youthful tension as hints of blood orange swirl under an air of violet inner florals. Dusty tannins resonate throughout. The energy within the 2015 is off the charts and provides a perfect counterpoint to its internal intensity. Bury this one deep.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Dark, powerful and explosive, D'Alceo is one of the epic wines of 2015. Crème de cassis, plum, graphite, sage, lavender, and menthol rush out of the glass in a deep, beautifully resonant wine loaded with class. A wine with striking inner sweetness, depth and structure, the 2015 will thrill readers lucky enough to own it for a number of years to come. The 2015 was fermented in cement and then spent 14 months in oak. It is rich, sumptuous and simply irresistible.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGFeaturing concentrated flavors of blackberry, black currant, earth and leafy underbrush, this red is wrapped in a shroud of stiff tannins that upsets the balance a little. Nevertheless, this will come into its own with decanting, a little aging in bottle or paired with grilled steak or lamb. Delivers excellent intensity, energy and length. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2029. 925 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThis is a big and self-assured red with lots of charcoal, vanilla, dried blackberries, barbecued meat and resin. Full-bodied and very chewy indeed with a ton of dark fruit and raw power. A delicate line of acidity pulls the brakes on. Drink in 2027!James Suckling | 95 JSTruffle, leather, crushed violet, mature blueberry and molten chocolate aromas meld together on this full-bodied red. A savory, earthy blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, the smooth palate offers mature blueberry, blackberry and clove aromas punctuated with hints of game. Velvety tannins provide polished support. Drink through 2025.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEShowing penetrating black fruit with lots of density and richness, the 2015 d'Alceo revealed a distant hint of rubber or animal that could be a point of concern if it were to worsen with time. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, and the fruit in this warm vintage is loosely knit and thick in fiber (ending with a 14.5% alcohol content that does leave its mark). The wine definitely needs more time to flesh out and integrate with bottle aging, but because of that slight flaw on the bouquet, I don't feel confident in suggesting the same extended drinking window that I have assigned to previous vintages. The jury is out on this one.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP