Rare Italians

wines

The 2018 La Ricolma is a wine of incredible finesse. To be sure, the 2018 doesn’t quite haver the explosive depth or intensity of either the 2015 or 2016, but it makes up for that with its persistence and nuance. Dark cherry jam, licorice, spice, menthol and sage all meld together effortlessly as the 2018 starts to open up with a bit of aeration. The 2018 spent 22 months in French oak, about 35% new.Vinous Media | 99 VMBlueberries and black olives with so many flowers, such as violets and honeysuckle. Licorice, too. This is full and very tight with lots of back-end tannins that build through the finish. A tight, muscular and curated young wine that lasts for minutes. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 99 JSThe San Giusto a Rentennano 2018 La Ricolma is an absolute stunner. This iconic expression of Merlot opens to rich and velvety concentration with lots of black intensity. Italians might call it "una bomba," or a veritable bomb of fruity bounty and beauty. The organic grapes are fermented in steel over 18 days and aged in French barrique for up to 22 months. This rather straightforward winemaking methodology results in profound fruit purity and persistence. The tannins are still tight and grippy, and this is a more controversial point that I discovered across many of the wines I tasted from 2018. You’ll need to give this wine more time to evolve and soften. Production is 5,994 bottles, 315 magnums and 33 double magnums.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis is dense and sinewy, with dusty tannins embracing the black cherry, plum, earth and spice flavors, showing a contrast between the supple texture and firm structure. On the austere side now, with fine intensity and length. Drink now through 2030. 400 cases made, 70 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Entirely from Nebbiolo Lampia, a more classic Barolo from this south-facing vineyard, the 2018 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice has aromas of red fruits, cocoa, fresh earth, and ripe berries. It is medium-bodied and long on the palate, with sweet, refined tannin and notes of dried apricot and spiced blood orange. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis wine shows just how elegant Nebbiolo is with aromas of wild raspberries and cherry preserves giving way to wild herbs, rosebuds and earth. The palate is lifted and dances with vigor and energy showing its core of fruit but with all elements in harmony and balance. Drink 2025–2045.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEA wine like this gives you an evermore selective expression of fruit from one of the best parcels from within the greater Ravera cru. However, it also comes from a more challenging vintage. The Elvio Cogno 2018 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice is held back for an additional year before its commercial release. That puts you in a position of choosing between the more affordable Barolo from Ravera and this more carefully culled selection of fruit. It makes sense to side with 2019, although this expression from 2018 will appeal to those who appreciate the nuances of vintage and place. Those Barolo lovers are also quite familiar with the Cogno house style that tends to favor the power, muscle and staying power that Ravera is known for. You should also be able to coax out more years of bottle age with this wine. 5,000 bottles were released.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPPerfumed, exuding aromas of rose, cherry, raspberry, anise and menthol, with the berry fruit persisting on the palate, along with mineral and wild herb flavors. Though expressive and balanced, this shows tannic grip and should evolve nicely. Best from 2025 through 2042. 425 cases made, 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSCedar, forest floor, new leather and woodland berry aromas shape the alluring nose along with a floral whiff of violet. Full-bodied and all about finesse, the smooth, savory palate offers juicy Marasca cherry, star anise and white pepper framed in taut, polished tannins. Drink 2025–2038. Drink 2025–2030 Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe 2018 Barolo Bricco Pernice shows the limits of the year in its angular tannins, slightly dried out fruit and overall angular feel. Dark cherry, leather, game, incense and tobacco lend quite a bit of aromatic complexity. Its hard to get past the rough contours. Even so, this is nicely done, for the year.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery attractive, perfumed nose with cherries and raspberries, hints of spiced cedar, walnut and moist earth. Medium- to full-bodied with grainy tannins and chalky texture. There’s freshness to the red fruit with racy, citrusy notes at the end. Try from 2026.James Suckling | 93 JS