Rare Italians

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A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits that make an appearance just before a mix of brisk acids and tannins creates a more tactile and youthfully clenching expression toward the finale. This leaves the palate aching under the 2016’s structural heft, yet with plenty of primary concentration to balance, as wild savory herbs and earthy mineral tones linger for up to a minute. The potential here is off the charts, but readers will need to be very patient. The Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a cru selection of old vines that refines for 48 months in large French oak barrels of 33–52 hectoliters.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is the top-shelf wine from Il Poggione, and it’s a must-have bottle for those who collect wines from this celebrated estate. From an icon vintage, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a beauty. It stands at the intersection of intensity, elegance and power. The fruit is shapely and dense with plenty of blackberry and black cherry, and you also get savory touches of campfire ash, tar, licorice, ferrous earth and balsam herb. Honestly, you get it all, including that distinctive Brunello power and abundance that is not easily achieved with such careful balance. The finish is structured, fresh and long, and with more time in the glass, the leathery or savory aromas become more pronounced (as does the alcohol). Production is 40,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA beam of pure cherry permeates this sleek, elegant red, shaded by floral, mineral, wild herb and orange zest accents. Well-delineated and long, this has the balance, grip and intensity for a long life ahead. Best from 2025 through 2045. 3,300 cases made, 750 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe estate’s oldest plot, Vigna Paganelli is a 12-hectare vineyard planted in 1964. It boasts a rich diversity of old Sangiovese clones which are used for newer plantings. Spiced plum, cured leather and a roll-call of marjoram, tarragon and basil beckon generously. Though hefty in size, this carries its girth with charming ease. There is a richness and sweetness to the fruit, while ripe, granular tannins provide a framework. A mineral edge emerges underneath all the layers. It will be hard to resist young, but I suspect intricate details will become more apparent in time. Drinking Window 2023 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DECCedar, forest floor and new leather aromas come to the forefront along with violet and dried botanical herbs. Full-bodied and enveloping, the savory palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, licorice and white pepper framed in velvety tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe freshness and depth are impressive, with floral, dark-berry and cherry character that follows through to a full body with chewy tannins that are polished and solid. Flavorful at the end. Needs time to soften. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 94 JS

Made with old vines that average 55 years-old, this fragrant, single vineyard Brunello boasts aromas of violet, menthol, wild berry and culinary spice. Loaded with class, finesse and structure, the delicious, full-bodied palate features ripe Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, blood orange, licorice and a hint of coffee alongside polished, velvety tannins. A salty mineral note lingers on the finish. It’s well balanced, with bright acidity. Event though it’s already enjoyable thanks to the refined tannins, it will also age for decades. Drink 2024 –2046. Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOMade with vines that average 55 years old, this fragrant, single-vineyard Brunello boasts aromas of violet, menthol, wild berry and spice. Loaded with class and finesse, the delicious, full-bodied palate features Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, blood orange, licorice and a hint of coffee alongside polished, velvety tannins. A salty mineral note lingers on the finish. Drink 2024–2046.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WESmokey and intense, with crushed ashen stones, savory herbs, ground ginger and dried black cherries forming its dramatic bouquet, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo blossoms in the glass. This is velvety and texturally deep, with brisk acidity motivating its tart wild berry fruits as orange traces add lovely contrast. Its minerality comes through in the finish, long and intense, with hints of cacao and tangerine resonating over a coating of fine-grained tannins. The 2016 is shedding its baby fat and slowly coming into its own.Vinous Media | 97 VMDried cherries, oyster mushrooms, black olives and citrus oil. It’s full-bodied with sleek, ultra fine tannins and a lifted finish. Layers of sour-cherry, bark and umami notes. Burgundian sensibility with purity and intensity. Wait a few years for this to open up. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 97 JSThis special single-vineyard wine comes from a 3.5-hectare site with vines 50- or 60-something years old. The Argiano 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo (with only 5,000 bottles produced) opens to warm earthy notes that evoke the name of the wine: "vineyard of the soil." The fruit comes through in a second wave with dried raspberry, cassis and dried cherry. But that theme of earthiness permeates the entire experience and is evoked in the powdery dryness of the tannins too. These traits are characteristic of cement fermentation, which this wine does complete, but also of the calcareous marl soils of the site. This is an elegant wine that most certainly needs extra bottle time to gain in depth and volume. A special collaboration with tonnellerie Taransaud was started to create the custom 10-hectoliter oval casks used to age this 5,000-bottle production.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2016 Vigna del Suolo Brunello opens with luxurious and complex aromas of incense, pure black cherry fruit, fresh Mediterranean herbs, and sweet tobacco. The palate is inviting, with velvety tannins, fresh black plum, tea leaf, and baked earth. Vigna del Suolo is sourced from 55-year-old vines at an altitude of 280-310 meters above sea level and aged for 30 months in specially selected barrels. This polished but pure expression of Sangiovese is inviting and approachable. Drink or cellar for the next 15 or more years. Drink 2022-2036.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of wild rosemary and pine lead off in this racy red, which is permeated by flavors of cherry, raspberry and mineral. Vibrant and balanced, with the resonant tannins leaving a chalky feel on the finish. Shows fine intensity and length. Best from 2024 through 2047. 415 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSArgiano’s oldest site, Vigna del Suolo boasts 65-year-old vines of very rare Sangiovese clones. Recent soil mapping with Chilean specialist Pedro Parra has also revealed significant limestone underpinnings in the vineyard. The 2016 sports a smoky, earthy, dusty nose punctuated by dried fennel. Ripe, chalky tannins are currently front and centre, needing time to cede, while sun-soaked berries underneath speak unabashedly of its southern origins. There is much lurking in this textured, packed Brunello, including orange, mint and a twist of salty sea air.Decanter | 95 DEC

In years past, I have commented on the pretty mineral nuances laced into the bouquet of this single-vineyard wine. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Manachiara delivers those tones with extreme clarity and precision, giving this vintage a distinctive personality and identity. Equally impressive, however, is the structure and fiber of the wine that is clearly more robust, concentrated and well-balanced overall. This quality comes from both the fruit and the oak, and these two forces play against each other with nice contrasts. It is no exaggeration to say that this vintage delivers "more Brunello" on all fronts compared to recent past vintages. This is a standout wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis is really beautiful with black cherries, porcini mushrooms, black walnuts and dried flowers on the nose. It’s full-bodied, yet very toned and tight with class and precision. Wonderful length and focus. Goes on for minutes. What a wine from here. Best ever? Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Manachiara is fruit-forward and seductive. It’s exotic, showing spiced black cherries, hints of tangerine, sweet herbs and mocha. The textures are velvety, weighty yet pure, energized by vibrant acidity, as tart red and black berries saturate all that they touch, leaving a coating of fine tannins in their wake. The expression becomes dry and youthfully structured; yet intensity remains high throughout the finale, as this tapers off to dried fruits, baker’s chocolate and hints of licorice. The Vigneto Manachiara is made from a site on the eastern side of Montalcino at around 300 meters. The wine spends eighteen months in French barrique, followed by another twelve months in Slavonian oak barrels. While the oak comes through in the finished wine, it does so with impeccable style. That said, the 2016 will take some time to soften and reveal all of its charms.Vinous Media | 96 VMTruly the loveliest Manachiara I have tried and among my favourite wines of the vintage. Produced since 1995, it is crafted from Nardi’s vineyards near Castelnuovo dell’Abate in a warm yet breezy spot with cool nights and morning sun exposure. The nose is sun-soaked with plum, baked herbs and exotic florals, while the palate brings in flavours of nectarine, leather and a saline edge. Plush, fleshy and full, it is enveloped in a velvety texture that builds artfully to a powdery, tactile grip. This will give heaps of enjoyment for many years to come.Decanter | 96 DECVanilla and toasty oak aromas and flavors are wrapped around a core of cherry, plum and tobacco in this stylish red. With air, the oak recedes and a mineral element emerges. Shows fine balance and a lingering finish. Best from 2024 through 2042. 830 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe nose is rather shy but eventually reveals new leather, forest floor, cedar and rose. The concentrated palate is still primary, featuring dried cherry, licorice and coffee bean framed in tightly knit, close-grained tannins. You’ll also detect the heat of evident alcohol on the close. Drink 2024-2031. Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KOThe nose is rather shy but eventually reveals new leather, forest floor, cedar and rose. The concentrated palate is still primary, featuring dried cherry, licorice and coffee bean framed in tightly knit, close-grained tannins. You’ll also detect the heat of evident alcohol on the close. Drink 2024–2031.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Compared to the broad shoulders and rich concentration you get in the Vigneto Manachiara, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Poggio Doria is slightly more ethereal and finessed in character. Even its color is a shade more ruby (by the slightest margin), and the aromas veer toward the red fruit side of the spectrum, instead of the black fruit. The bouquet yields quite a bit of varietal purity with raspberry, wild cherry and a lingering rosemary essence. Dark mineral and campfire ash also appear. The tannins are a bit drier and tighter here, compared to the relatively softer and richer texture seen in the Manachiara, and my recommendation is to hold this wine a bit longer in your cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Poggio Doria is dark, brooding and savory from the start through its almost-salty finish. Crushed violets and roses mingle amidst an air of earthy minerals and undergrowth, with hints of pine and tart woodland berries adding freshness. Its textures are silky and polished, with a dense core of black fruits and spice carried over a medium-bodied frame by brisk acids. Tannins come in late in the game; yet they quickly firm up the expression, adding youthful tension as echoes of purple florals and cheek-puckering blackberry linger. This is painfully young and will require some time to come around, but I hope to enjoy another bottle when it does. The Poggio Doria cru is located in the north-west of Montalcino. The wine spends eighteen months in a combination of new and used tonneaux, followed by another twelve months in Slavonian oak barrels prior to bottling.Vinous Media | 94 VMPoggio Doria comes from a five-hectare plot in the wooded and densely shrubbed area of Casale del Bosco. Harvested slightly later than the Manachiara, in the first week of October, the 2016 is immediately expressive and precise in its aromas of medicinal herbs, fragrant forest, gingerbread and spice. The most linear and least generously fruited of Nardi’s three Brunello, it will need some time to unfurl and for the wood to integrate but there is much promise. Immensely juicy on the finish.Decanter | 94 DECImpressive black cherries with black mushrooms, mahogany and black earth. Full-bodied with chewy yet fine-textured tannins. It goes on and on in the palate. Muscular, yet very toned and fine-grained. Hints of steel at the end. A beauty. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSAromas of red berry, blue flower and star anise form the nose along with whiffs of wild herb. Structured and elegant, the taut, savory palate delivers juicy red cherry, raspberry compote and licorice alongside tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. It’s still young so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2024–2036. Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOAromas of red berry, blue flower and star anise form the nose along with whiffs of wild herb. Structured and elegant, the taut, savory palate delivers juicy red cherry, raspberry compote and licorice alongside tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. It’s still young so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2024–2036.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEAn impressive red, this adds a light touch of new oak to its cherry, strawberry, iron, tobacco and pine flavors. Vanilla and resinous accents linger, along with dusty tannins that should meld with the fruit in a year or two. Best from 2023 through 2038. 165 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS