Italian Collector Wines

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I can't believe how the nose changes from white truffle to berry and black cherry and then goes blueberries and citrus fruits. Full and soft and velvety. It is layered and massive with so much going on. Now sweet tobacco and berries. A wine that is in evolution every moment. Try it in 2014.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2006 Brunello di Montalcino saturates the palate with deep layers of dark red fruit, violets, new leather and spices. The aromas and flavors grow beautifully with air, showing remarkable intensity all the way through to the expansive, textured finish. This is a brilliant effort from Giancarlo Pacenti. The Brunello saw 18-20 days on the skins, followed by malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak barrels, of which roughly 80% were new. The vineyard sources are approximately 4.5 hectares in Sant’Angelo and Piancornello (in the south of Montalcino) and 5 hectares in Pelagrilli (in the north). Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPGiancarlo Pacenti’s 2006 Brunello di Montalcino impressed for its balance, harmony and sense of proportion. The combination of fruit from Montalcino’s northern and southern districts yields a Brunello of incomparable finesse. A slight bit of dryness from the oak was a distraction.Vinous Media | 96 VMAn iron streak runs through the middle of this firmly structured Brunello, leading to core flavors of black cherry, tobacco and wild herbs. This stays taut and racy through the finish, but needs time to soften its tannins. Best from 2013 through 2025. 2,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis is a gorgeous expression from Montalcino that opens with opulent and beautiful aromas of dark chocolate, ripe cherry, leather and barbecue smoke. The wine is immensely rich and succulent at its core and creamy, velvety density marks the luscious fade.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Aromas of juniper, rosemary, thyme and Szechuan peppercorn segue to strawberry, cherry and rose hip flavors in this elegant red. Intense and balanced, with the structure to develop over the next two decades. Shows excellent depth and length. Best from 2022 through 2043. 833 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSCompared to 2014, the 2013 vintage was a breeze from a farming and winemaking point of view. A relatively stress free growing season tends to transmit more clarity and intensity to the finished product. That's the impression I get when I taste the savory, rich and sophisticated 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Some 10,000 bottles were released. This wine delivers thick ripeness with bold cherry aromas that are folded into spice, leather and tangy black licorice. This wine achieves a higher level of aromatic intensity compared to the elegant Altesino 2014 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli (which I actually preferred at this tasting). However, my impression is that this riserva from 2013 will ultimately offer a more fruitful and interesting bottle evolution five to ten years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis offers an array of light and bright cassis and other blue-fruit notes with wild herbs and raspberry leaf. Then, a smooth, fresh and approachable palate carries a supple, smooth and velvety core on fine, even tannins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSLinear and made in a focused style, this fragrant red has aromas of camphor, rose, thyme and new leather. The racy palate offers sour cherry, star anise, menthol and wild herb set against taut fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Casanovina Montosoli has medium-plus concentration and pretty aromas of cherry fruit, redcurrant, crushed mineral, watercolor paint and a generally riper bouquet, certainly when compared to the Passo del Lume Spento. These vines sit at 300 meters in elevation with mixed clay soils (and higher pH) next door to Baricci. It delivers more of a punch, and there is a savory component with leather or mild tobacco that changes with time, eventually transitioning to a point of sweetness. Structurally, this is a very beautiful wine (with 3,800 bottles released).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Casanovina Montosoli tempts the imagination, blending savory herbs with fresh mint, dusty black cherry and camphor. This is pure elegance on the palate, silky-smooth and supple with cool-toned red fruits complicated by saline minerals as clove mingles with orange nuances toward the close. It finishes surprisingly fresh yet youthfully poised. Edgy tannins add a crunchy sensation, leaving subtle traces of rose petals and an air of worn leather. This harmonious beauty will provide decades of pleasurable drink, yet patience will be required.Vinous Media | 97 VMDisplaying a slightly darker ruby color than the Petroso, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Casanovina Montosoli takes on more depth and opens to notes of wild raspberries, fresh roses, orange peel, and anise. Medium-bodied, it also takes on more structure, with elegant concentration, ripe tannins, and seamless acidity. Long on the palate, with notes of gravelly earth and Mirabelle plum on the finish, this gorgeous wine demands another year or two in cellar. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDFrom a prime, east-facing parcel on Montosoli’s limestone rich, slatey soil, Casanovina was planted in 1999 and acquired by Le Ragnaie in 2014. Innate breeding oozes from the 2019: gracious and becoming, if not overt. Lifted violet and lavender blossom scents slowly emerge before a trace of sweet damp earth lends a grounding character. This expands over the palate with a generosity of fruit hemmed in by powdery tannins. While imposing at first, they yield supplely. Finishes with succulent, stony minerals. Exciting.Decanter | 97 DEC

The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reveals a finely chiseled quality, with direct and lifted fruit, that gives this wine an angular or delineated personality. This impression is reinforced by delicate mineral notes of crushed stone that fold into dark fruit, sweet plum, black cherry and earthy iris root. The wine is elegant, but it also shows lots of umami or textural deliciousness thanks to the natural ripeness and concentration of the fruit. Give this wine more time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPExtremely perfumed and intense with lilacs, violets, purple fruits and black cherries. Full-bodied and very structured with punchy tannins that give this great length and intensity. This is a great one for the cellar. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is dark and youthfully inward, forcing the taster to work with its brooding blend of blackberries, sage and crushed stone. This displays textures of pure silk, polished and refined, with a dense textural wave of tart red and black fruits underscored by saline minerals and exotic spice. Orange notes add contrast through the close as this finishes tannic and long, with a pleasantly chewy sensation and angular tannins that pinch the cheeks. The 2019 is a dark stallion of a Brunello, all muscle and meat, that will take many years of cellaring to show its best. That said, it will be worth the wait.Vinous Media | 96 VMBalsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, cedar, blue flower and underbrush on the brooding 2019 Sugarille. Showing more structure than the Rennina but still endowed with the firm’s hallmark of elegance, it delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange licorice and tobacco framed in tightly-woven, close grained tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2039–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOTo complete Angelo Gaja’s comparison with his Langhe wines, he likens Sugarille to Barolo (as opposed to the Rennina, which he equates with Barbaresco). Powerfully constructed, this will appeal to drinkers seeking a vigorous style of Brunello. Sweet oak spice and plum take on earthy forest undertones. It’s ample and expansive in fruit, yet austere and tight in structure: dark cherry and plum hang off steely, vertical grape tannins. Thicker wood tannins build through the core but crisp acidity offsets the dense structure, and medicinal herbs are tucked into its layers. This becomes increasingly firmer as it sits in the glass, and will need a whole lot of time.Decanter | 95 DEC