Italian Whites

wines

Gorgeous aromas of persimmons and spices as nutmeg, cinnamon, orange peel, and hints of caramel. Honey and apricot. Full-bodied, dry and layered with dried fruits such as apricots and pears. Botrytis spice. Fine silky phenolic texture and a flavorful finish. Layered and fascinating. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees centigrade. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSGravner’s legendary wine – the most sought-after skin-contact wine of Italy – is released seven years after the vintage. It’s the result of the scrupulous, unconventional work of Josko, from the vineyard to the cellar, that makes the 2015 vintage a deep, golden wine with amber hue. Its intriguing nose is rich in aromatic components like dried apricot, orange peel and resin notes. Mouthfilling with great texture and delicate tannins, it shows lovely acidity with a sapid, mineral finish.Decanter | 94 DEC

This is a fantastic white. The greatest Ornellaia white so far. Very complex and dense yet, at the same time, energetic and vivid. This shows so much richness and density with a pretty, phenolic texture that keeps you entranced. Full-bodied with lots of honeysuckle, green-melon and cooked-apple character. Very long and flavorful. Dynamic and great wine. Drinkable now, but better in 2021.James Suckling | 99 JSThe star of the show with regard to the whites is unquestionably the 2016 Ornellaia Bianco. It’s reminiscent of a great vintage of Domaine de Chevalier with its incredible purity, precision, and length, displaying notes of clean citrus, melon, white flowers, and honeyed minerality. Fresh and vibrant as well as rich and powerful, it’s medium-bodied, seamless, and flawlessly balanced on the palate, with a thrilling finish. While it’s beautiful today, it should keep for 10-15 years or more. The 2016 is 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was brought up in 30% new French oak.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDA cooler but drier year than 2015, making an interesting comparison between Ornellaia Bianco’s only two 100% Sauvignon Blanc vintages. Smoky lanolin notes lead to a concentrated, intense and juicy palate with creamy nectarine, grilled pineapple and citrus zest. Despite heading towards all-out exoticism, however, the 2016 is corseted and refined, demonstrating a push-pull between juicy, ripe tropical fruits and mineral restraint, suggesting there is much more to come from this wine. The individual base wines were fermented in barriques (30% new) with no malolactic fermentation, then aged on the lees for up to 18 months with occasional batonnage. A final three months on steel was completed before blending and bottling.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2016 Ornellaia Bianco is a beguiling wine, even a bit deceptive when you get down to facts. This is indeed the central part of its irresistible charm. For one, this edition is a mono-variety wine made solely with Sauvignon Blanc. (The other protagonist of the blend, Viognier, is said to return in 2017.) However, the complexity of the bouquet could mistakenly make you think the blend is more intricate. You get white rose, crisp apple, saffron, toasted pine nut, cinnamon and wild sage. The aromas show brilliant detailing. In addition, the wine is expansive and creamy in terms of mouthfeel. However, none of the whites at Ornellaia—including this wine—undergo malolactic fermentation, though the creamy and richly textured mouthfeel might lead you to conclude otherwise. This classic vintage is especially generous and rich. The wine does see barrique aging, but only a third of the wood is new. Those spicy endnotes serve to frame the beautiful fruit that sits squarely at center stage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2016 Ornellaia Bianco has more nuance, freshness and layers of flavors than the 2015 tasted alongside it. I very much like the delineation and energy that are such signatures of the 2016.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThe 2016 Ornellaia Bianco looks more mature than the 2015 and Heinz comments that it may have had a little too long in oak - 18months - which was longer than in other vintages. Although 2016 was cooler than 2015 - so you might expect more freshness - it was also much drier than 2015. This 2016 has an orange-gold tone to the color and a slightly, nutty, dried fruit aromatic profile with lightly perfumed spice notes. The texture is great, more of a full, voluptuous style with a medium-long finish. The 2016 is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, perhaps lacking a little freshness and vibrancy, but has a lovely silky weight and a gentle savory finish.The Wine Independent | 93 TWI

The 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is a slightly tweaked blend compared to the 2016 and includes a splash of Viognier. The blend is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier, which is a combination you don’t see often, yet it makes sense, and the Viognier plays the role of Semillon seen in Bordeaux Blanc releases. Coming from a dry, hot year, it has a beautiful bouquet of Meyer lemons, honeysuckle, flowers, and hints of barrique. This carries to a seamless, full-bodied white that’s flawlessly balanced, has a bright core of acidity, ample mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It’s one seriously classy white I’d be thrilled to drink any time over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDA really beautiful, layered white with sliced lemons, limes, stones and hints of steel. Some lemon curd. Tight and solid with fine phenolics that give it structure and focus. Extremely poised and dignified. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe previous vintage of this wine was made soley with Sauvignon Blanc, but as expected, the Ornellaia 2017 Ornellaia Bianco sees a small percentage of Viognier added to the blend. The exact percentage of the two components is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier. If you are a fan of these grape varieties, as I am, this wine will appeal to all your basic pleasure points. Showing medium rich concentration and a creamy textural fiber, it reveals some of the weight that we associated with this hot and dry vintage. However, any trace of over-ripeness is mitigated by the cool soils that, in this case, consist of deep calcarious clay broken up by rocks at a breezy 80 to 100 meters above sea level. This consistency is perfect for locking in moisture even in drought vintages. The wine is fermented in oak, but no malolactic fermentation occurs, and the wine instead rests on the fine lees with frequent stirring. Orchard fruits and Cavaillon melon give the wine a sturdy center of gravity. Some 5,000 bottles were made, and this wine was released in April 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is impressive, especially within the context of the warm, dry year. Bright and focused, the Bianco shows the natural richness of the vintage - that is impossible to escape - but it also retains quite a bit of energy. Orchard fruit, citrus and floral notes are beautifully delineated throughout. Once again, the Bianco is a wine of real distinction.Vinous Media | 94 VMSubtle peach, passion fruit, elderflower and earth flavors converge in this white. There is a touch of oak adding a vanilla accent. Though lush in texture, this is also intense and long, with an echo of passion fruit and salty elements. Drink now through 2024. 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

“Creamy and refreshing, Rigogoli bursts with flavors of peach, almond, sweet spice and finishes with a clean, sea-swept minerality. The native Grechetto di Todi pairs well with Viognier which rounds out Grechetto’s acidity, but also serves to add more complex aromas to this wine.” Sokolin Tasting Panel | 95 SP

A classy wine with a profound and complex profile. The nose is fully focused on tension, with vibrant aromas of pink grapefruit, linden tree flowers, apricots, Mirabelle plums, green apples and toast. Oily texture with zesty, integrated acidity. It’s long, smooth, full-bodied and weighted in the finish. Candied fruit aftertaste. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but it will last for a decade.James Suckling | 96 JSIntense and complex, it displays slightly lifted scents of meadow blossom, bruised apple and lime, with suggestions of creamy pastries in the background. Great energy on the palate, where the youthful fleshiness is supported by firm, tangy acidity. Although still finding its feet, 2021 is a benchmark vintage for Löwengang Chardonnay – a wine with a radiant future.Decanter | 95 DECHints of graphite and smoke underscore flavors of persimmon, plum skin, white cherry and blanched almond in this clean-cut, salty white. There’s textural richness and density on the palate, though this is medium-bodied and elegant overall. Lightly honeyed throughout, with a long, fragrant finish of mountain herb and preserved lemon notes. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2031. 5,800 cases made, 230 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Wow. This is fantastic with mangoes, lemons, pears and hints of vanilla. Mineral, too. It’s full-bodied with bright fruit and a vivid finish. Lots of minerals. A selection of the best grapes of Inama in the grand cru Foscarino. Much less use of barrels than in the past with large casks and stainless. Superb. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Soave Classico I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée is a platinum-golden color with a youthfully intense bouquet that blends raw almond with stone dust, dusty dried flowers and Asian pear. This seduces with its silken textures and supple personality, washing across the palate with crisp, ripe orchard fruits complicated by a salty mix of savory herbs and minerals. The 2021 tapers off dramatically long and fresh, leaving a resonance of mint and liquid stone.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis is the third vintage produced, and the team at Inama is happy with what they’ve learned along the way in order to get to this point. The 2021 Soave Classico Foscarino Grande Cuvée I Palchi is what they describe as the most representative of the goal for this wine. Made with 100% Garganega, the wine is beautifully textured and fresh, almost crunchy, and very detailed across with peach, honeydew melon, exotic fruit and crushed oyster shell. I Palchi consists of terraced vineyards with 50- to 60-year-old vines trained with the overhead pergola trellis system. Garganega tends to be a very vigorous grape. The choice of oak use here is carefully contemplated with 50% Stockinger oak casks, 10% new oak, 20% used wood and 20% acacia wood.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPI Palchi (first vintage, 2019) is the replacement for Du Lot, which Alessio Inama described as ’oily, powerful, oaky.’ The name means ’parcels’, referring to the terraces of pergola-trained old-vine Garganega which provide the fruit for this wine. ’Crazy selection is the game changer,’ he explained, noting that only bunches which have achieved a certain yellow hue are picked, as those grapes offer body combined with freshness. Ageing is for six months in 50% large casks, 10% new vapour-toasted barriques, 20% used barriques and 20% stainless steel. The wine is then blended before spending a further six months in stainless steel. Rich, round and flinty, it’s full of exotic and peachy yellow fruits, allied to lovely freshness and poised sapidity. Smoky and spicy hints emerge on the long, slightly woody finish. Class.Decanter | 94 DECGrown on wide terraces on the Monte Foscarino, this Soave showcases Garganega’s importance as one of Italy’s great and noble white grapes. The nose opens with aromas of fleshy white peach, Fuji apple, acacia honey, dried yellow flowers and subtle hints of baking spice. Rich and full in body, yet graceful at the same time, the wine has notes of roasted orange peel, apricot and pear all dusted with baking spices and finishing with a crushed stone minerality. Drink now–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEFresh and finely meshed, with minerally hints of chalk and saline underscoring flavors of yellow apple and pear, spring blossoms and grapefruit pith. This drapes the palate like raw silk -- textured but without excessive weight -- and lingers on the lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2031. 25 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Super-restrained nose here with candied lemon and lemon bush, tuberose, peach kernel and integrated toastiness. Full body with amazing weight and concentration, yet with vibrant, lemony flavor, zesty and integrated acidity and a warming but balanced finish. Drinkable now, but with aging potential of more than 10 years.James Suckling | 97 JSFor the first time, Ornellaia Bianco becomes a Bolgheri DOC wine in the 2021 vintage. It’s again 100% Sauvignon Blanc, vinfied in a mixture of 300L and 500L amphorae, barriques and tonneaux, with only 25% new wood. Perfumed, exotic, stony and honeyed, it’s nonetheless a vertical and focussed wine, its structure constraining rich aromas and flavours of mango, peach, white flowers, orange peel, papaya and passion fruit. It does feel like it’s being held back, with a touch of austerity and that stony, mineral authority that makes it a necessity to drink with food. ‘It has much more vibrancy than in the past...a better defined character than when the project began,’ notes Marco Balsimelli.Decanter | 96 DECPreviously a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, the Ornellaia 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is now all Sauvignon Blanc. The estate recently planted Semillon, so it is possible that we will one day see that grape in the blend (especially because it is known to thrive in hot vintages). This wine plays its best cards in terms of texture. It sports broad shoulders and enough texture to support those many creamy citrus and delicately tropical flavors. A dusting of crushed stone adds elegance. The wine should show its best results in five to 10 years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is alluring. I sense a bit more textural richness vis-à-vis prior editions, a positive in my book. White pear, jasmine, sage, mint, white pepper, peach and apricot fill out the layers. Light tropical accents appear with some aeration, adding a tropical flair that is quite attractive. This is impeccably done.Vinous Media | 95 VMVerging on creamy in texture, this silky white features floral, peach, sage and mint flavors, with a flash of grapefruit pith. Complex, balanced and long, with a salty component on the persistent aftertaste. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Gaja Chardonnay competes with top white Burgundies, and why wouldn’t it.  You can actually taste the pedigree. I had the pleasure of tasting back vintages at Hotel Pellicano in Tuscany and actually think it ages better than most white Burgundy today. A masterpiece!Dave Sokolin | 97+ DSWhat a beautiful chardonnay, with sliced cooked apples, pears, light cream and pineapple, but so well knit together with a mouthfeel that is caressing and fine textured. So enticing to drink now, but will improve with age. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JS