Italy Wines

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The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the most elegant, polished wines in this range. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mint and cedar are beautifully lifted. The tannins are remarkably polished for a young, recently bottled Riserva. I admire its poise and elegance. This is an especially refined edition of the Montestefano. In 2020, the mix of vineyards is a bit younger than in the past, as one of the blocks of older vineyards was replanted and not used. If I could have only one of the Riservas in 2020, this would be it!Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2020 Produttori Montestefano Riserva is absolutely gorgeous, boasting aromas of violet, forest floor, red-skinned fruit and new leather. On the palate, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity support raspberry compote, red cherry, white pepper and star anise. This has a slightly more delicate tannic structure compared to previous vintages that’s not only a feature of the vintage but also due to the fact that a parcel of fifty-year-old vines had to be replanted, meaning the average age of the vines for the 2020 vintage is 35-40 years old. Drink 2026–2032. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOA haunting aroma of rose leads off, underscored with raspberry, cherry, white pepper and mineral flavors. This red is elegant and firmly structured, with refined tannins and vibrant acidity driving the resonant finish. The white pepper note returns on the aftertaste. Shows superb balance and length. Best from 2028 through 2045. 1,358 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSIn this year and at this stage, the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is not as full as the Montefico, which is the reverse of most years. A deep ruby/red color, it reveals notes of black raspberries, toasted spice, crushed flowers, and sweet earth. The palate is lush and inviting, with a refined and approachable feel. It has a lot more approachability at this stage than you’d expect, with velvety tannins and a long, floating finish. While the palate has less weight, it has an underlying nervous tension, with mouthwatering notes of sanguine, iron-rich mineral accents. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JDNormally, Produttori del Barbaresco President Aldo Vacca puts Montefico, Rabajà, Muncagota and Montestefano at the end of his flight of Riservas. But in this year’s presentation, he put the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano fourth to last instead of last. This wine is usually the darkest and the most austere in the series. However, the 2020 does not live up to its usual flavor profile. The aromas are quite ripe, even overripe, with prune and raisin. The tannins are soft, leading to a succulent and chewy mouthfeel. My recommendation is to give this wine a shorter drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The nose of the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is quite expressive and spiced, showing very nicely with ripe aromas of wild raspberries, cherries, fresh herbs, and blood orange spice. The palate gains in intensity, with good energy and a mineral drive. A very successful wine in this vintage, it’s going to have plenty of life over the next 15-20 years. 13,333 bottles were produced.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of pine forest, dark spice, new leather and hint of truffle form the enticing nose on the impressive 2020 Rio Sordo Riserva. On the palate, taut extremely refined tannins accompany pomegranate, strawberry, citrus and star anise. Drink 2026–2032. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo comes from an area that is further removed from the Tanaro River and has southwestern exposures. It shows a typical profile for Nebbiolo with rich fruit, a velvety mouthfeel and textural volume that is delivered with ample blackberry, blackcurrant and spice. The character of this wine is generous and rich. There is plenty of meat on these bones.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is pretty closed today, which is probably a very good sign for its aging prospects, as this site tends to produce wines that are more open than this. Dark cherry, plum, leather, incense and tobacco offer a decidedly somber expression of Rio Sordo. The 2020 clearly needs time.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis red bursts with cherry, strawberry and rose aromas and flavors, plus mineral, white pepper and anise elements. Firm and lively, showing accessibility and harmony. Enjoyable now, but there’s no rush. Best from 2026 through 2040. 1,111 cases made, 198 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Aluigi Campo ai Peri is 100% Sangiovese from a single vineyard in Panzano that faces Lamole. It spent two years in cask and a third year in a larger cask. Rich, sumptuous and beautifully layered, the 2020 is all class, all refinement. Silky tannins, expressive red-toned Sangiovese fruit and lifted, soaring aromatics give the 2020 tons of finesse. This sensual Gran Selezione is lights out.Vinous Media | 97 VMA vineyard selection from a southeast-facing parcel at an average altitude of 440m. With a slightly higher clay content giving cooler soil, the 2ha plot is typically the last to be picked at the estate. It yields wines with a mightier structure, and in 2020, the warmth of the vintage is on full display: macerated fruit aromas are accented by cinnamon and liquorice tea. That ripeness repeats on the palate, where redcurrant jelly meets fennel, broom and grilled meat. Fruit girth is thoroughly reined in by the strict, angular tannins, and stony minerality drives the finish.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECA focused, dense and well-built gran selezione. It shows notes of spiced cherries, sweet berries, dried herbs and dry earth with some spices. It’s full-bodied with fine, firm tannins. Lively and full of verve, with plenty of drive and texture. Lingering finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe Le Cinciole 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Panzano Aluigi Campo ai Peri has a theme of sweet versus sour that runs throughout. You get tart cherry set against raspberry preserves. There is cinnamon contrasted by savory notes of tobacco. The wine ends with mid-weight concentration and a bright spot of acidity. The Gran Selezione goes into oak for two years followed by 12 months in cement. This is a 5,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2020 Petresco is 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s highest-elevation blocks facing Lamole, where soils are especially rocky and the vines are older. Wildflowers, herbs, rocks, menthol and licorice soar out of the glass. This is an especially savory, expressive Sangiovese that emphasizes mineral and floral notes more than primary fruit. Petresco spent two years in 60-70% cask and the rest in barrique, followed by a year in cement. It remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Italy. Magnificent.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis is spicy and walnuty with aromas of plums, mulberries, nutshells and licorice. Full, broad and a little chewy, with a firm tannin structure and succulent fruit underneath. Shows good concentration and length and needs a bit of time to soften. Sangiovese. From organically grown grapes. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 93 JS

A stellar wine, the 2020 Grattamacco is dark, vibrant and nuanced to the core. Black fruit, lavender, spice, leather, menthol and dried herbs infuse the 2020 with tons of character and complexity. Deep yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2020 is one of the most finessed Grattamaccos I can remember tasting. There’s incredible depth and resonance here, not to mention tons of personality.Vinous Media | 97 VMNext up is the 2020 Grattamacco, which really takes things up a notch. A deep ruby red, it offers decadent and harmoniously layered aromas of pristine oak spice, fresh leather, mossy earth, tobacco, and kirsch. Full-bodied and refined, it has a velvety texture, plush tannins, even acidity, and a long finish. This demands to be cellared and will continue to improve if adequately stored over the next two decades and likely beyond. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD‘This vintage gifted generous fruit with excellent, crisp acidities, alongside clean-edged balsam and pungent Mediterranean scrub,’ said winemaker, Luca Marrone. The grapes are hand-harvested in vineyards with an average age of 25 years. Spontaneous fermentation occurs in 7hl oak vats with a frequent and gentle manual pigeage, enabling long macerations and slow release of only fully ripe and noble tannins. This wine was aged for 18 months in oak barrels and bottled in August 2022. Restrained cassis and Mediterranean herb scents are allied to fresher red fruits and a floral touch. It’s very well composed, demonstrating an elegant and juicy style with great integration of oak and youthful, chewy fruit. A Bolgheri to wait for – this is intended for the long haul.Decanter | 96 DECA nose that is luxuriously fruity also has undertones of salt, flint and herbs providing balance. The palate runs wild with fruit but simultaneously offers notes of dark chocolate and a subtle spiciness to keep things lively. Tannins are chalky and resilient, and persistent acidity holds up a long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEAromatic nose of blackcurrants, berries and cherries, together with hints of flowers and smooth oak. Full-bodied with a super-clean and intense bead of fruit running through the lightly firm tannins to give a long, only lightly abrasive finish. From organically grown grapes. A classy, well-structured blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese. Drinkable now, but better from 2024.James Suckling | 94 JSThis 2021 Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso has a natural harmony and balance that is hard to beat. There is more of a range of delicate aromas on the nose, not just simply fruit or oak spice but little floral notes that come and go, a little hint of crushed rose petal or wild iris as well as bright cherry aromas and a very gentle background spice of oak. The nose is persistent and reveals layers of flowers and fruit, becoming more interesting in the glass. On the palate there is such a beautiful texture and weight and a real silkiness but without heaviness. The tannins are beautifully refined and harmonized within the wine and there is a cleansing sweep of refreshing acidity on the finish. This wine has a beautiful harmony to it. Supremely refined but with a strong sense of identity.The Wine Independent | 94 TWIElegant and linear in profile, this red boasts cherry, black currant, mineral, earth and Mediterranean scrub aromas and flavors. There’s fine tension and freshness, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Needs time. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Best from 2025 through 2042. 5,400 cases made, 430 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMouthwatering acidity and taut, grippy tannins provide an appealing structure for this wine’s juicy blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. Scents of lavender and notes of tobacco and black pepper add complexity to the lively purple fruit tones. Beautifully balanced and energetic, this wine is a versatile partner at the table and an excellent introduction to the wines of Bolgheri.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 92 W&S

Showing great class and precision, Brovia’s fragrant 2020 Villero is a chiseled beauty. Taut and focused, the palate features crushed strawberry, pomegranate and blood orange accented with licorice and pink peppercorn before an almost salty close. A backbone of refined tannins provides firm support. It needs a few more years to fully develop and shows good aging potential for this rather forward vintage. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOA Villero masterpiece that demands your full attention. The fruit profile is a symphony of classic Nebbiolo notes, with ripe cherries, plums, and a hint of blackberry that’ll make your taste buds sing. The tannins? They’re so fine, they’re like silk threads woven into the fabric of the wine. But don’t be fooled by the elegance – this Barolo has a structure that’ll make you sit up straight and take notice. Savory flavors dance in perfect harmony with the fruit, creating a mesmerizing balance that’ll leave you speechless. This is a wine that’s not just exquisite – it’s unforgettable. Drink 2026 - 2050 Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEWhat a minty nose, elegant, fresh and vibrant, with classic dried cherry fruit, violets, minerals and notes of balsamic. Youthful palate with velvety tannins, crisp acidity, a medium body and a long, savory finish. This young Barolo is intended for the long haul. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSBrovia’s 2020 Barolo Villero is a potent, savory wine. Dried herbs, menthol, licorice, wildflowers, spice and dark-toned fruit give the Villero its distinctive personality. Broad swaths of tannin wrap it all together. Dark and brooding, the 2020 is not ready to reveal its charms. All this needs is time—I can’t wait to taste it in another few years. As is often the case, the Villero is Barolo that emphasizes savory/earthy/mineral notes more than overt fruit.Vinous Media | 94+ VM