Italy Wines

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An earthy blend of crushed blackberries, violets, chalk dust and wet stone smolders up from the 2020 Aglianico del Vulture Arberesko. It’s sleek and spry, with racy acidity guiding its mineral-tinged red and black fruits. Grippy tannins mount toward the close, yet the Arberesko maintains a wonderfully fresh persona, leaving savory herbal tones and sour citrus to linger.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Bright and lively on the palate, such beautifully expressed raspberry and red cherry fruit flavours alongside high-shining acidity that is so clean and precise. A supremely joyful expression with hints of caramelised strawberries and fresh mint. So sharp but so well defined with a clarity to the palate that is gorgeous. Really delivers a sophisticated, charming, characterful wine that is balanced, easy to enjoy with plenty of life. A more structured and perhaps harder to understand wine than Testamatta this year, but both have their own lovely personalities. This is so complete and abundant, muscular but controlled and full of complexity and detail - there’s weight and density without heaviness. A sensational wine. Ageing 12 months in 500l French oak barrels.Decanter | 98 DECThe subtlety and perfumed nature of this wine is enchanting, offering flowers, orange peel and cherries. Wonderful ripe strawberries, too. Full-bodied, but not over the top, with tannins that are polished and run the length of the wine. It’s tight, but gives you every indication of a terrific wine. You want to drink it now, and you probably should do, because it’s so alluring. Yet it will age beautifully as well. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore is a pure expression of Sangiovese all sourced from old vines that are carefully selected in various parts of Tuscany. Much of the fruit comes from a high elevation and cool site in Lamole, or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the lovely depth and complexity that comes through in the Colore. Compared to his other wine Testamatta, this wine has seen fewer stylistic changes over the years, and the goal has always been elegance and finesse. Colore boasts a pretty luminous quality with dark fruit aromas and wild berry. There are hints of licorice and mint as well. Mineral flavors and bright acidity are what set Colore apart.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Bibi Graetz Colore has beautiful, appetising aromas of savory wild herbs, wild-flowers and Mediterranean shrub with a light peppery note and on standing there is an aroma of strawberries warmed in the sun. The palate is round and soft, then mouth-wateringly fresh, then it finishes with savory, salty tannins. What I love is that the flavours are clearly delineated and remind me of Sangiovese and the Tuscan landscape with bitter cherry, light sea salt, iron tonic and wild herb notes. The flavors are quite fragile but persistent, the texture is fine and silky and there is a lot of savory, mineral tension in this wine.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe 2020 Colore is spiced and pure, with vibrant ripe cherry, cinnamon, and cedar. There is elegance and ripeness within its medium frame, revealing notes of wild raspberry, dried herbs, and orange zest. There is another level of refinement from the Testamatta that will continue to improve over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2020 Colore is pleasantly unexpected and is a total feminine beauty. When I anticipate power, it delivers grace with a stunning bouquet of freshly cut roses, blood orange, wild strawberries and sweet smoke. It’s deeply textural, yet not heavy, feeling like crushed velvet gently draped across the palate, leaving mineral-tinged blackberries and currants in its wake. This finishes on a note of elegance with fine-grained tannins without slowing its momentum as spice notes slowly fade. The Colore is all old-vine (70 years or older) Sangiovese from vineyards Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena.Vinous Media | 94 VMCherries, strawberries, raspberries, seaweed and soy sauce mingle with the scent of freshly paved road, gun flint and pencil on the nose of this wine. It offers a very cherry palate, with wet stone, white pepper, rose petal and chocolate-covered orange slice. A bright and lively wine, it balances structure with playfulness, and delivers fruit that is mouthfilling without turning velvety.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThis red reveals a mix of earth, cherry and wild herb flavors that ride a bright, fleshy profile. Features a juicy midpalate, with vibrant structure and well-integrated tannins. The finish firms up, where cherry and spice notes linger. Sangiovese. Best from 2024 through 2035. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2020 Barbaresco boasts an ample set of aromas with wild cherry, blue flower, sweet spice and crushed limestone. As always, the wine paints an exciting and authentic portrait of Nebbiolo, albeit with a little more richness and texture in this vintage. This is especially true in terms of the palate, where the wine offers mid-weight intensity with melting tannins. This ambitious release of 300,000 bottles is slated to hit the market in fall 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPStill vinous, with youthful strawberry notes, rosebud, violet, liquorice and a whiff of cinnamon. Savoury and floral on the palate which is dominated by firm, crisp, long acidity and velvety ripe tannins of an amazing quality; perhaps just a bit stern on the aftertaste. Amazing Barbaresco. Here we have the cooperative of Barbaresco and one known as producing some of the best-priced quality wines in all of Langhe. This will not be released before October 2023.Decanter | 94 DECJust off the bottling line, I was the first in the world to taste the 2020 Barbaresco from bottle with Aldo Vacca. It pours a jewel ruby, which Aldo thought was probably pre-bottle shock. A pretty wine with aromas of ripe raspberry (almost liqueur), sweet licorice, and fresh violets, it is medium to full-bodied, with pure, ripe fruit of red cherry, blood orange, dusty earth, and pressed flowers. This is a lovely wine out of the gates, and it will be interesting to see how it settles. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 93-94 JDThis is aromatic and attractive with notes of dried cherries, hibiscus, cocoa and bark, following through a medium body with polished and refined tannins with velvety texture, and a linear finish. Fresh and floral at the end with a bright red fruit backbone. Drink from 2025.James Suckling | 92 JS

Very attractive nose with ripe blackcurrants, spiced chocolate, grilled thyme, hazelnuts and bacon. Notes of tobacco and cedar, too. Full-bodied, so refined and polished with layers of finely chiselled tannins spread evenly across the wine and beautifully integrated. Blooming fruit with spicy herbs, peppermint and violets. Very long and persistent with a steady, mineral sensation in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSWhile there are subtle secondary notes present, this remains largely primary and still quite fresh with mostly red berry fruit that is cut with nuances of earth, roasted cherry and stone hints. There is moderate austerity to the relatively precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that are presently somewhat lean and while not hard, it’s clear that this is not yet ready for prime time drinking. Save for one recent bottle that was hard to the point of being unpleasant, I have had consistent notes.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2020 Biserno is one of the best wines I can remember tasting here. Rich yet vibrant, the 2020 presents a much more restrained style than was once the norm. There is still plenty of intensity, but energy and vibrancy have replaced volume as signatures. Espresso, menthol, licorice, cloves and leather are some of the many notes that build in this powerful, elegant Maremma red. Gorgeous Franc aromatics open the finish effortlessly.Vinous Media | 96 VMSmells wild - herbal and gorgeously floral on the nose with ripe black, bramble fruit aromas. Round and supple, fully flavoured and textured with just fleshy tannins that also have a cool, mineral chalky edge giving some minerality to the palate and freshness offsetting the ripe, sweet black and blue fruit. I like the lingering powdery element and this has a certain sharp, sophistication - cool blue fruits, cola, vanilla, cedar and toast. I’d be hard pushed to put it in Tuscany though, it does smell and taste more like old-school Bordeaux or Californian wine. Massy, heavy, pushed with both oak and extraction. It has purity, but lacks the Tuscan charm that these wines can offer. Quality is there and this is enjoyable. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Director Niccolo Marzichi Lenzi, winemaker Helena Lindberg.Decanter | 94 DECA powerful red, with a saline element underlining the black currant, blackberry, plum, leather, iron, herb and tobacco aromas and flavors. Reveals muscular tannins that shore up the finish, which has a lingering mix of fruit, herbs and spices. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2040. 25,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The darkly alluring 2020 Cabernet Franc Poggio de’ Colli takes its time in the glass, slowly awakening with a dusty mix of red currants, pepper-tinged rose, exotic curries and the slightest touch of animal musk that adds gravitas. This is velvety smooth yet finessed. It’s cool-toned in feel with a potent wave of tart raspberry fruits that saturates the palate with savory spice and mineral tones. It leaves a coating of fine tannins and a staining of berry concentration through the finale, tapering off sapid and long, yet perfectly balanced. What a radiant vintage for the Poggio de’ Colli, Piaggia’s varietal Cabernet Franc. Revisit it in five years to see some real sparks fly.Vinous Media | 97 VMAromas of blackcurrants and fresh tarragon follow through to a medium to full body, with firm tannins and a tangy finish. Better in a couple of years. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2020 Gagliole, 100% Sangiovese from estate vineyards in Panzano, is fabulous. Rich and ample, the 2020 possesses remarkable breadth and textural intensity. All the elements are so well balanced. Cedar, pipe tobacco, mint, dried flowers and mocha all build as the 2020 shows off its class. Pretty floral and saline accents extend the finish.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is a very special organic wine made exclusively with Sangiovese from Panzano in Chianti from 15- to 30-year-old vines. Compared to the other releases in this portfolio, the Gagliole 2020 Gagliole delivers the goods up front with immediate fruit intensity and aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry. This wine sports a bright and lively personality with a soft texture and pretty layers of sweet fruit. You get a lot of good food-pairing potential out of this bottle, whether it be with grilled meat or pasta. Exactly 5,748 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is complex with aromas of ripe black cherries, blackberries, dried spicy herbs, cedar, graphite and seashells. Full-bodied, firm and structured with finely polished, well-integrated tannins that keep building on the palate, framing the deep dark fruit and pushing the length of the wine. An array of pure fruit, spices and minerals on the palate. Very attractive and pristine. Tense and balanced. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

Enticing fruit-cocktail nose with a lemony twist, as well as some honey and meadow flowers. Medium-bodied with intense, super clean fruit flavors and a delicious finish. So well balanced. Enjoy now.James Suckling | 93 JSA blend of equal parts fiano and greco, this wine offers flavors of cool citrus in a round, creamy texture. Scented with apple blossom, chamomile and bee pollen, the wine gains richness with air, yet remains high-toned and refreshingWine & Spirits Magazine | 91 W&SA creamy white, with juicy yellow apple and pear fruit laced with hints of vanilla, verbena, anise and toast. Reveals a subtle, pleasing plumpness that’s refreshed and balanced by citrusy acidity and a tang of salinity. Fiano and Greco. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The wine displays a super beautiful color, with a translucent ruby hue. Aromas of very pretty wild red berries, licorice and sweet and savory spice captivate the senses. The palate is truly delightful, with the fruit shining through initially, followed by earthy notes, such as truffle. Superfine tannins contribute to its overall elegance. Enjoy from now–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEAttractive aromas of raspberries and cherries with savory herbs, orange peel and forest wood undertones. Juicy and savory with medium body and crunchy tannins and a velvety mouthfeel. Attractive and lightly chewy at the end. Better from 2025.James Suckling | 93 JSHailing from the Bric Micca cru in Neive, the elegant, structured Poderi Einaudi 2020 Barbaresco has alluring aromas of eucalyptus, ground clove and violet. On the full-bodied palate, taut, refined tannins support juicy red cherry, blood orange, star anise and blood orange. Drink 2025–2035. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO