Italy Wines

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Perfumed and structured, the compelling 2021 Ravera from Cogno entices with aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, dark Asian spice, pressed rose and a balsamic whiff of camphor. Boasting succulent fruit, the chiseled palate features ripe black cherry, black raspberry, ground clove, cinnamon and licorice before a salty finish. It has great tension, with firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOMint, eucalyptus, plum, earth, oak spice and tar notes mark this lean, sinewy red, which is compact despite starting out with an open feel, featuring a core of sweet, ripe fruit midpalate. The assertive tannins require patience, while the aftertaste indicates this wine’s future potential. Best from 2028 through 2050. 625 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe bright red colour, obtained thanks to a marathon 40-day maceration, anticipates a symphony of aromas: rose petals, citrus, cinnamon, graphite, mint. In the mouth, a refined elegance. Persuasive and framed by silky tannins, the acidity is exhilarating and the crunchy fruit returns on the finish. Partly whole-bunch vinified, using yeasts indigenous to the Ravera sub-zone, then refined only in large barrels. A post-modern Barolo.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThese vineyards in Novello open to the Alps and an exceptional panorama. The Elvio Cogno 2021 Barolo Ravera is made with the Lampia and Michet clones of Nebbiolo. The wine offers a distinct character with iron ore and crushed stone behind dark fruit and pressed rose. I also get a hint of exotic spice in this gorgeous wine. This is a 14,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is highly expressive and a standout in the range, revealing layers of depth in its underlying notes of balsamic herbs, and its fruit shines brightly with preserved strawberries, wild spices, and crushed flowers. Sourced from 80-year-old vines just below the winery, the palate is saturated with ripe tannins, sanguine mineral richness, a broad-shouldered mid-palate, and a long finish. It’s built to last over the coming two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of orange rind with touches of red fruit and tar. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, very well constructed, with a fine line of acidity, a good core of delineated fruit and polished yet firm tannins. Lovely to taste now, but will be better from 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

The aromas alone on the classy and classic 2021 Luigi Einaudi Cannubi will captivate you thanks to the rich fragrance of rose, truffle, wild berry, cedar and culinary spice. The palate also crushes it, delivering ripe Morello cherry, strawberry tart, cake spice and menthol enveloped in velvety tannins that demonstrate the elegance this cru is celebrated for. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2030–2041. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThis is a real beauty. Poderi Luigi Einaudi has expertly managed to interpret this legendary cru in a classic vintage. The 2021 Barolo Cannubi is a finely textured wine with a long succession of aromatic high tones that include cassis, licorice, smoke, iris and something almost citrusy in character. The wine is tight but streamlined on the palate, and it pushes forward with long, polished intensity. Production is 9,480 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA stylish red, exhibiting cherry, strawberry, rose and stony mineral flavors. Linear, elegant and verging on racy, this shows finesse and detail, with impeccable balance. The well-integrated structure extends on the finish. Best from 2028 through 2047. 833 cases made, 125 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA classic Barolo with dried cherries, dried roses and violets, licorice and pomegranates. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, it shows ripe, elegant tannins, refreshing acidity and a tense, chewy finish. Drinkable now, but best in two three years due to its tension.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Barolo Cannubi is aromatic, bright and light on its feet. Crushed flowers, red-toned fruit, mint, white pepper and orange zest are all finely cut in this nervy, rather taut Barolo. It will be interesting to see if more mid-palate sweetness emerges over time. This has certainly come along quite a bit since I tasted it two months ago.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe medium red 2021 Barolo Cannubi is a bit shy on the nose on opening, with aromas of dusty earth, cedar, pomegranate, and dried leather. Its more floral and pure profile comes through on the palate, with an elegant, medium-bodied feel, fine tannins, and a delicate weightlessness on the finish. It’s a very pretty wine with a more open-knit structure and is likely to show its best over the coming 8-10 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JD

Energetic and bright with sliced green apples, mangoes and citrus with some honeysuckle. It’s medium- to full-bodied with lovely fruit. Electric acidity. Salty at the end. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JS

Very elegant and restrained nose of sweet violets, watermelon, fruit salad, red cherries, strawberries and pomegranates. Dense on the palate with a medium body, chewy tannins, crisp acidity and a polished finish. Surprisingly delicious. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2022 Spanna Coste della Sesia La Crotta is a fine entry-level offering from Cantina Delsignore. Crushed flowers, sweet red cherry fruit, cedar and pipe tobacco give this mid-weight Spanna notable finesse and overall appeal. This is everything Spanna (Nebbiolo in these parts) should be.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Nascetta and Riesling, the Luigi Baudana 2022 Langhe Bianco Dragon makes a very pretty appearance in the glass with brilliant luminosity. The wine plays its cards well with complexity, a tropical side with star fruit, minerality and sliced honeydew melon (the ripe side of the cut).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

Aromas of wild raspberries cascade out of the glass with fresh rose, wild herbs and subtle earth notes. The lively palate pops with sour red cherries that are balanced by hints of anise and underbrush. Elegant tannins frame the wine perfectly. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WELanghe Nebbiolo is a terrific category of wine that is taking on enormous steam. You get the lovely character of the elegant grape but delivered here with more immediacy and ease of drinking. The Elvio Cogno 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is the type of bottle you hope to find at your neighborhood trattoria or pizzeria. The wine shows a brilliant ruby hue with fragrant rose, violet and sweet cherry. Production is 15,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPSourced from Nebbiolo grown just outside the Barolo zone on sandy soils, this Langhe Nebbiolo is primed and ready to be enjoyed now. Vinified in stainless steel with a portion of whole-bunch fruit and 30% undergoing carbonic maceration, it flaunts a beautiful perfume of wild strawberry and floral notes. In the mouth it has good intensity of juicy red fruits with a touch of herbs. Textural, sapid and vertical.Decanter | 92 DECNo written review provided. | 92 W&SThe 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is an homage to Valter’s grandfather and was fermented and aged only in stainless steel. The 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is a pale ruby, with notes of ripe wild strawberry, cinnamon, and white pepper. It is lifted, fresh, and medium-bodied, with fresh acidity and a good clean finish. Another fresh example to serve with salumi and as an aperitif, with a light chill, it is easy to drink and approachable. Drink over the next 5-6 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JDDried herbs, dark chocolate and bark with red and dark berries on offer here. Medium-bodied, juicy and crunchy with a flavorful, citrusy finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JSJust a touch earthy in aroma, giving way to succulent cherry, raspberry, floral and woodsy flavors. Balanced and firm, with a lingering, spicy finish. Decant. Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

A tiny vineyard of one hectare delivers this firm, medium-bodied red with racy tannins, dark chocolate, iodine and dried strawberries. Creamy and chewy at the same time. Juicy as well. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

A fresh and crunchy white with light lemons, mangoes and bitter limes. It’s medium- to full-bodied with lots of fruit. The hot growing season comes through, but it remains fresh at the end. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2023 Langhe Bianco Dragon is mostly Chardonnay, with touches of Sauvignon Blanc, Nascetta and Riesling. Pear, white flowers and tangerine oil inflections grace this expressive, mid-weight Bianco. Creamy, silky contours wrap it all together. Baudana’s Dragon has come a long, long way in recent years.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Delicately aromatic, with floral, herbal, and apple skin notes wafting from the glass. Textured and mouthwatering, it boasts a mineral focus and a subtle salty edge. Sage and mountain herbs add to its verdant profile, supported by great acidity that keeps the palate refreshed and engaged.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA clean and fresh white that has notes of chopped apples, almonds and lemon rind. It’s medium-bodied, creamy and balanced. Sustainable. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JSAromas of elderflower, wild herb, hay and stone fruit form the nose on the 2023 Gavi del Comune di Gavi from Fontanafredda. Tangy and bright, the palate offers apricot, green apple and lemon before a saline close. Drink through 2027. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 90 KO

Green apples, sliced pears and wet stones on the nose of this fresh and crisp white. It’s light- to medium-bodied, clean and refreshing. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS