Italy Wines

wines

One of the most positive surprises of my tastings this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. As an aside, readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick up this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPOne of the great surprises of my tasting this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. Readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future.Vinous Media | 95 VMRich, decadent aromas of blackberry and dried rose, with hints of prune. Full-bodied, with delicious fruit, round tannins and a long finish. Layered and beautiful. Best after 2010. 2,700 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This is a ripe red with raisin and spice aromas plus hints of mushroom and wet earth. Full body and very ripe fruit with spicy undertones. Chewy yet round, caressing tannins. This is very powerful for the vintage. Needs until 2016 to show its quality.James Suckling | 97 JSAlso tasted in a magnum, the 2008 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate is an extraordinary wine that delivers warm tones of baked brick, moist earth, white truffle and autumnal leaf. The wine opens with an inky dark appearance and shows solid structure at the back. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP(bottled in magnums): Good bright, deep red. Wonderfully delicate aromas of redcurrant, cherry, mocha, flowers and tobacco. Silky on entry, then suave and fine-grained in the middle, showing a remarkably primary character to its red fruit and spice flavors. This impeccably balanced, elegant Barolo finishes with noble tannins and great subtle, mounting persistence. A great vintage for this bottling.Vinous Media | 95 VMElegant and pretty, with ample flesh to the cherry, licorice and spice flavors. The refined tannins reveal themselves on the finish, which is long and spicy. Fine harmony. Best from 2015 through 2028. 400 cases made. — BSWine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is slow to open and I spent a good amount of extra time with this wine as a result. It was well worth the wait. The intensity inches up in baby steps. With time, the wine is splendent and focused with a very direct and impactful delivery of aromas. It also shows a specifically floral personality with dried rose petal or blue violet that I did not recognize in most of the other Brunellos from this classic vintage. There is power and determination behind those feminine aromas. The wine makes a lasting impression in the mouth, thanks to the textual tightness of its tannins and the refreshing crispness of the acidity. The Riserva sees fruit sourced from Il Greppo’s oldest vines (25-years-old and more) and the wine ages in traditional oak casks for three years. Some 13,600 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

It started in 1993, with 3ha of vineyards; now Buglioni has 54ha. This riserva is made only in the best vintages, with the best hand-picked grapes. Aged for 30 months in tonneaux, it has tertiary notes of balsam, dry leaves, sweet tobacco and jam. Bramble fruits and summer-fruit pudding surround the taste buds. Intense, elegant and poised, with great length and huge structure. Try it with bitter chocolate or enjoy it on its own. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 96 DECInviting aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, new leather, cocoa and forest floor emerge from the glass. The concentrated palate doles out black currant jam, licorice, black pepper and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WESome 3,570 bottles were made and each one is numbered. In some parts of the Valpolicella, 2010 was considered a difficult vintage, but not here. The 2010 Amarene della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Teste Dure is extracted, inky and soft. The wine is showing some maturity and evolution, with licorice and tar behind primary notes of dried blackberry, plum and raisin. I would suggest a slightly reduced drinking window as a result, maybe pairing it alongside lamb with balsamic reduction. The next time this Riserva was made was 2015, and the folks at Buglioni have been experimenting with whole-cluster fermentations and amphorae aging too. So far, they are happy with the results, so we will surely see these methods used in upcoming releases.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIntense soy-sauce and cooked-plum nose that won’t be for everyone, but on the palate this is rich and silky. Good length. Drink now with mature hard cheeses.James Suckling | 91 JS

This is a terrific wine that absolutely stands out in a crowd. The 2013 Barolo Riserva Bussia Cascina Dardi is a studied and careful Nebbiolo that shows delightful intensity, with precision, balance and sharpness, and an equally generous mouthfeel. That clarity of aromas is impressive. You get wild berry, pressed rose, black licorice and polished river stone. This wine ages in oak for 48 months. With only 6,000 bottles made, this wine is worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2013 Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi is a super-appealing, old-school Barolo that is going to require a number of years to be at its best. Deceptively medium in body, the 2013 possesses quite a bit of aromatic nuance and depth, but at present the tannins dominate. Scents of dried herbs, tobacco, leather and licorice open up over time, but only gradually. Readers should be prepared to be patient.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis wine’s delicate, translucent cherry color belies its dark fruit flavors and powerful, meaty tannins. Notes of mint, dried fennel and green peppercorn brighten the baked cherry flavors, resonating on the slightly warm finish.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&S

Aromas of juniper, rosemary, thyme and Szechuan peppercorn segue to strawberry, cherry and rose hip flavors in this elegant red. Intense and balanced, with the structure to develop over the next two decades. Shows excellent depth and length. Best from 2022 through 2043. 833 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSCompared to 2014, the 2013 vintage was a breeze from a farming and winemaking point of view. A relatively stress free growing season tends to transmit more clarity and intensity to the finished product. That's the impression I get when I taste the savory, rich and sophisticated 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Some 10,000 bottles were released. This wine delivers thick ripeness with bold cherry aromas that are folded into spice, leather and tangy black licorice. This wine achieves a higher level of aromatic intensity compared to the elegant Altesino 2014 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli (which I actually preferred at this tasting). However, my impression is that this riserva from 2013 will ultimately offer a more fruitful and interesting bottle evolution five to ten years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis offers an array of light and bright cassis and other blue-fruit notes with wild herbs and raspberry leaf. Then, a smooth, fresh and approachable palate carries a supple, smooth and velvety core on fine, even tannins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSLinear and made in a focused style, this fragrant red has aromas of camphor, rose, thyme and new leather. The racy palate offers sour cherry, star anise, menthol and wild herb set against taut fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The Produttori's 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is all power, tension and nerve. Even so, the 2013 is remarkably civilized and much less austere than young Ovello Barbarescos usually are. Scents of cranberry, white pepper and mint give the wine its signature high-toned aromatics. The Ovello has a Volnay-like purity to its fruit, with Nebbiolo tannins and structure, of course. If that sounds appealing, well, it is. Vivid, sculpted and impossibly beautiful, the Ovello is simply magnificent.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is the third wine tasted in our lineup of Produttori del Barbaresco Riservas and is one of my favorite expressions overall. The Ovello vineyard site sees a greater presence of limestone in its soil composition, and this factor helps to develop the tannic structure and consistency of the wine. At 18 hectares, Ovello is one of the biggest cru sites sourced by this co-operative estate. Twelve separate farmers tend to their private parcels in Ovello. Fruit from this site is often the main component of Produttori's base Barbaresco along with blending material from Montestefano, Pora and Muncagöta (previously known as Moccagatta). You notice the color graduation getting darker here. The bouquet is expressive and bright and reflective of the cool and crisp late summer and pre-harvest nights. Some 17,000 bottles were made along with 1,500 magnums.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThis red starts out with bright cherry, strawberry, rose and mineral flavors, allied to a refined, linear frame. Harmonious now and should be ready soon, but the vivid structure will serve it well into the future. Best from 2023 through 2037. 1,430 cases made, 336 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS2013 was cool with above average rainfall - though less than 2014. Similarly, the weather improved in September and remained clement until harvest began on 8 October. Vacca refers to it as a classic year with temperatures never exceeding 28°C. Brooding earthy aromas make way for white pepper and mint, while flavours of redcurrant and spice lead to lingering dried leaf notes on the finish. Slightly weightier than the sprightly 2014, the 2013 still demonstrates a sinewy edge along with dry, brisk tannins and crunchy acidity. It needs time to smooth out and expand into its full complexity. Released in spring 2018. Drinking Window 2021 - 2036.Decanter | 94 DECWild berry, camphor, moist earth and violet aromas unfold in the glass. The structured, refined palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, orange slice and white pepper alongside polished tannins and bright acidity. A soothing licorice note lingers on the finish. Drink through 2028.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Just bottled, the 2015 Barolo Riserva Cascina Dardi is a real powerhouse. This full-bodied, potent Barolo packs a huge punch. It won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, that much is obvious. Time in the glass brings out aromatic intensity and inner perfume. Spice and blood orange accents lend an exotic quality to this dark, layered Barolo. The Riserva is a wine for readers who appreciate the natural fragility of artisan wines, wines that aren’t perfect but that perfectly embody the human spirit.Vinous Media | 96 VM

The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Rose delle Casasse is one of the most distinctive wines in all of Piedmont. It emerges from a tiny parcel in Neive first planted in 1913 with the Rose clone of Nebbiolo known for its aromatic intensity, that is rarely seen these days. Deeply bright and perfumed, the 2015 offers up an exotic mélange of sweet red cherry, blood orange, mint, spice, rose petal and kirsch. There’s terrific depth and plenty of substance to wrap it all together. The 2015 spent four years in wood, a combination of small barrels and medium-sized casks. I wonder what this wine would like taste like if it was aged in more neutral oak, as there is a bit of oak tannin here. Even so, the 2015 is an exquisite wine and a Barbaresco of real character.Antonio Galloni | 96 AG

This wine was not produced in the 2014 vintage. The excellent 2015 Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine amply makes up for that gap thanks to its generous purple and black fruit. This is a terrific vintage with ample spice and smoke. Feudi di San Gregorio CEO Antonio Capaldo tells me that he likes 2015 more than 2016 and he likes 2017 best of all. I can’t wait to review those finished wines over the next few years. The 2015 is more explosive and 2016 is more direct, fine and elegant. This wine shows extra volume in the mouth, making a great impact. Some of the historically best vintages of this important wine include 1999, 2001, 2010 and 2013. The jury is still out on whether this wine will be produced in the difficult 2018 vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2015 Piano di Montevergine is more primary than the 2013, its bold blackberry flavors framed by firm, black-rock tannins. The 2015 growing season was hot and dry in much of Italy, yet this wine feels bright and energetic, the fruit coming from the estate’s first planted vineyard on a plateau at 1,300 feet above sea level. Its cool, graphite tones and mouthwatering acidity surge through the ripe fruit tones as they take on notes of licorice and dried herbs, and the wine stays balanced through a smooth and spicy finish.Wine & Spirits | 95 W&SA tarry red, with smoke and loam notes transitioning to flavors of dried cherry, dark chocolate, menthol and spice. Full-bodied and fresh, with well-knit tannins providing light definition throughout and emerging to firm the chalky finish. Drink now through 2030. 2,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSFrom Piano di Montevergine and Taurasi villages, this Riserva is harvested from relatively young vines of 15 to 20 years. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, it is focused on graphite minerality and restrained cassis, enhanced by a herbaceous character and wild dark fruits, linked nose-palate by cacao powder. The tannins are velvety with huge mid-palate extraction and firm acidity, yet the wine is balanced due to a great concentration of fruit. Overall a bold style right now; it will improve further with ageing. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2035Decanter | 92 DECMeaty and herbal notes on the nose with dried earth and pistachio skin. Cloves, too. It’s full-bodied with layers of ripe and dried black fruit, cloves, walnuts and smoked meat. Firm, slightly dry tannins, but still attractive. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 91 JSAromas of toasted oak, baked plum and mocha lead the nose. The aromas carry over to the firm palate together with notes of star anise and clove. Close-grained tannins grip the finish. Drink through 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

Perfumed with flowers, dark fruits and orange peel on the nose. Full-bodied with firm and integrated tannins that are chewy yet polished and focused. Turns muscular and toned at the end. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSHere is Castello Banfi’s top-shelf wine from an iconic vintage. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro shows a dark ruby or garnet appearance. The wine is impeccably balanced, aromatic and powerful all at the same time. The bouquet presents etched aromas of wild berry fruit and cherry, and there is a good amount of earth, wild rose and grilled herb. The wine is broad and long-lasting on the palate (with 15.5% alcohol) for safekeeping in your cellar. Exactly 15,976 bottles were released.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPBanfi was rewarded for waiting out the 100 millimetres of rain that fell mid-September, harvesting ripe, healthy grapes at the end of the month. With the 2016, the estate has deftly balanced the solid, substantial structure of the Poggio all’Oro site with generosity of fruit and depth of expression. Fresh plum and black cherry gain intrigue from coffee, violet, wet soil and cinnamon notes. A concentrated, dense Brunello that carries its proportions effortlessly, this is a credit to the ongoing work at Banfi. Ageing is in 80% large French oak casks and 20% barriques. It will be released September 2022.Decanter | 95 DECBright and elegant, evoking cherry, strawberry, floral, iron and spice aromas and flavors, with wild herbs peeking through on the finish. Shows a dense structure that bodes well for the future, and overall this feels balanced. Best from 2025 through 2043. 1,330 cases made, 70 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro is packed full of hedonistic pleasures. An alluring mix of crushed black cherries, plums, tobacco and mocha with contrasting hints of mint leaf and camphor rises up from the glass. This fills the palate with velvety textures carried over a weighty framework, yet the impression is one of pure elegance, as black-tea-infused red currants come together with nuances of candied citrus and dark inner florals. Tart berries, dusty bitter cacao and a coating of fine tannins are nicely contrasted by a refreshing bump of residual acids, as this tapers off dramatically long. For fans of the style, the 2016 is a gorgeous and balanced representation of deep-south Montalcino terroir. The Poggio all’Oro cru is aged in a blend of 70% French oak casks of 60–90 hectoliters and 30% barriques for 30 months.Vinous Media | 93 VMForest floor, camphor, blue flower and pipe tobacco aromas take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and brawny, the concentrated palate exhibits raisin, prune, licorice and the heat of evident alcohol alongside densely woven, velvety tannins. Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KOForest floor, camphor, blue flower and pipe tobacco aromas take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and brawny, the concentrated palate exhibits raisin, prune, licorice and the heat of evident alcohol alongside densely woven, velvety tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2017 Barolo Riserva Perno is a real stunner. Deep, pliant and super-expressive, the 2017 boasts gorgeous inner sweetness and depth to lay off its huge, imposing tannins. The ripeness and overall intensity of the year comes through in the wine’s captivating aromatics and pliant, layered mid-palate. Even so, the 2017 has a boatload of tannin and tons of searing structural intensity to assimilate. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon.Vinous Media | 96 VM

It’s hard to put the glass down while exploring the depths of raspberry compote, dried orange peels, roses, exotic spice and a dusting of cocoa that form the absolutely stunning bouquet of the 2019 Carmignano Riserva Piaggia. This is pure elegance. It’s silky and refined as liquid violet florals and ripe red and black fruits easily rush across the palate. Its vibrant acidity maintains exceptional finesse despite the massive primary concentration slowly taking hold. The 2019 finishes long with a coating of sweet tannins and balsamic-tinged cherry. The balance here is amazing, which might trick readers into finishing their bottles far too quickly, but trust me, the best is truly yet to come. This is Rock Star juice.Vinous Media | 96 VMBlackcurrants with crushed-stone and lavender undertones. Medium to full body, slightly chewy tannins and a clove and dried-flower aftertaste to the dark fruit. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 92 JS

he 2019 Ovello Riserva is succulent and enveloping, offering scents of dark-skinned berry, forest floor, violet and new leather. Full-bodied with impressive structure and fruit, it boasts ripe raspberry, black cherry and licorice supported by firm, close-grained tannins that provide the backbone. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with pressed rose, wild berry, new leather and dark spice. Showing intensity and structure, the full-bodied, delicious palate boasts a weightless concentration, delivering fleshy raspberry, blood orange, almond liqueur and licorice alongside tightly woven, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors and provides great balance. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.Vinous Media | 94 VM