Italy Wines

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Perfumed and structured, the compelling 2021 Ravera from Cogno entices with aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, dark Asian spice, pressed rose and a balsamic whiff of camphor. Boasting succulent fruit, the chiseled palate features ripe black cherry, black raspberry, ground clove, cinnamon and licorice before a salty finish. It has great tension, with firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOMint, eucalyptus, plum, earth, oak spice and tar notes mark this lean, sinewy red, which is compact despite starting out with an open feel, featuring a core of sweet, ripe fruit midpalate. The assertive tannins require patience, while the aftertaste indicates this wine’s future potential. Best from 2028 through 2050. 625 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe bright red colour, obtained thanks to a marathon 40-day maceration, anticipates a symphony of aromas: rose petals, citrus, cinnamon, graphite, mint. In the mouth, a refined elegance. Persuasive and framed by silky tannins, the acidity is exhilarating and the crunchy fruit returns on the finish. Partly whole-bunch vinified, using yeasts indigenous to the Ravera sub-zone, then refined only in large barrels. A post-modern Barolo.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThese vineyards in Novello open to the Alps and an exceptional panorama. The Elvio Cogno 2021 Barolo Ravera is made with the Lampia and Michet clones of Nebbiolo. The wine offers a distinct character with iron ore and crushed stone behind dark fruit and pressed rose. I also get a hint of exotic spice in this gorgeous wine. This is a 14,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is highly expressive and a standout in the range, revealing layers of depth in its underlying notes of balsamic herbs, and its fruit shines brightly with preserved strawberries, wild spices, and crushed flowers. Sourced from 80-year-old vines just below the winery, the palate is saturated with ripe tannins, sanguine mineral richness, a broad-shouldered mid-palate, and a long finish. It’s built to last over the coming two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of orange rind with touches of red fruit and tar. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, very well constructed, with a fine line of acidity, a good core of delineated fruit and polished yet firm tannins. Lovely to taste now, but will be better from 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

The stunning Le Chiuse 2021 Brunello shows great intensity and structure as well as the elegant restraint the estate is known for. It opens with aromas of ripe plum, wild berry, forest floor, dark spice and blue flower as well as a camphor note. Vibrant, full-bodied and delicious, the palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, crushed black raspberry, licorice and fine tobacco blend lifted by fresh acidity. Taut, well-integrated tannins provide polished support. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe Le Chiuse 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely wine and one of my favorites from a vintage that is not always easy to read. It delivers its message clearly with dark fruit, blue flower, grilled herb and sweet cedar, showing a sense of fullness and aromatic completeness that is not always present in this year. Soft and silky on the palate, the wine offers gentle, powdery tannins supported by good underlying structure, achieving balance without force. Sourced as a special selection from eight hectares of organically farmed vineyards with cool exposures, this bottling demonstrates how site and restraint can successfully interpret variety and vintage. Production is 19,800 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPTwo barrel samples of the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino were tasted – the first from more elegant sandstone soils and the second from the more robustly profiled site with clay soils. The first boasts pretty citrus notes of orange and a refined feel throughout. It’s very pretty and also floral and floats on the palate. The second, from the clay soil, is deeper and has more robust tannins, with a darker feel and hints of tea on the finish. I’m looking forward to the blend when it comes together, and I think this is going to be a very good vintage for the estate.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass with a youthful blend of dried flowers, underbrush, crushed rocks and dried black cherries. It is surprisingly round and soothing to the senses, with waves of pure silk and red berry fruits elevated by a core of vibrant acidity. Minerality comes through in the finish, crunchy and long, as sweet tannins frame the experience remarkably well. This is a gorgeous interpretation of the vintage, yet patience is required.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of red cherries, stones and herbs like lavender. Medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit and firm, nervy tannins complemented by precise acidity. Lots of tension and definition. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

So perfumed and seductive on the nose, with black cherries, minerals and rose petals that follow through to a medium body with ultra-fine tannins. Its finesse and vision tell you why Brunello is great. Long, vivid and beautifully balanced. Already a joy to taste, but best after 2027.James Suckling | 99 JSLavender, eucalyptus, dark spice, new leather and juniper berry aromas shape the beautiful nose on the 2021 Fuligni Brunello. All about class and finesse, the palate boasts great intensity, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, blood orange, star anise and rosemary alongside vibrant acidity. Taut, refined tannins lend support. While incredibly tempting, this is still young so give it time to reach its full potential. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe Fuligni 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is an elegant expression with layers of dark fruit and blackcurrant that give way to pressed rose, grilled herb and petrichor, recalling rocks bathed in hot sunlight. The wine is chiseled and refined, owing to the classic nature of the vintage and the restrained, non-extractive house style that distinguishes Fuligni, a historic estate based just outside the village of Montalcino on higher-elevation sites. The wine shows precision with fine tannic tension and a linear, poised finish, making it an ideal match for traditional Tuscan dishes such as pappardelle al cinghiale or grilled lamb with rosemary. The wine ages for three years in Slavonian oak casks and tonneaux, resulting in a production of 30,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino mixes crushed violets and roses with nuances of sour citrus and wild berries to form its alluring bouquet. A model of purity, it is surprisingly lifted yet silken in feel, with pretty red berry fruits swirling across a tactile mineral core. Sweet tannins and a staining of primary concentration remain, finishing long and balanced with a pleasantly chewy sensation that lingers. While already appealing, the 2021 will require cellaring to soften the blow.Vinous Media | 95 VMFragrant notes of red fruits, flowers and citrus announce an elegant, admirably balanced silhouette with authoritative stature. The wine’s textural compactness, measured personality and stylistic consistency are convincing. This noble family has cultivated vines in Montalcino for over 100 years. The 15 hectares of vineyards, mainly around the estate’s centre to the east of Montalcino, are 380-450 metres above sea level.Decanter Magazine | 95 DEC