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Extravagant and exotic, but still lively, this is a super-concentrated and elegant wine that’s already breathtaking, yet has enormous aging potential. Plenty of wet earth and mushroom character alongside the cassis and blackberry aromas. Super-long, perfectly balanced finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 100 JSWhat a blockbuster effort! Atypically powerful, one day, the 2009 Haut-Brion may be considered to be the 21st century version of the 1959. It is an extraordinarily complex, concentrated effort made from a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc with the highest alcohol ever achieved at this estate, 14.3%. Even richer than the perfect 1989, with similar technical numbers although slightly higher extract and alcohol, it offers up a sensational perfume of subtle burning embers, unsmoked cigar tobacco, charcoal, black raspberries, wet gravel, plums, figs and blueberries. There is so much going on in the aromatics that one almost hesitates to stop smelling it. However, when it hits the palate, it is hardly a letdown. This unctuously textured, full-bodied 2009 possesses low acidity along with stunning extract and remarkable clarity for a wine with a pH close to 4.0. The good news is that there are 10,500 cases of the 2009, one of the most compelling examples of Haut-Brion ever made. It requires a decade of cellaring and should last a half century or more. Readers who have loved the complexity of Haut-Brion should be prepared for a bigger, richer, more massive wine, but one that does not lose any of its prodigious aromatic attractions.Robert Parker | 100 RPInky purple in colour, this has a rich, intense nose of damson, blackberry and olive paste. The palate is generous in texture and weight, more broad-shouldered than Château Margaux - which is already beginning to show its florality. This is balanced but well built in every inch. The warmth of the vintage coming through as fruit ripeness, liquorice, spice and punch, with the beginnings of truffle notes. There’s no question of its excellence and its bonhomie. Drinking Window 2022 - 2044Decanter | 98 DECThis enormous young wine is among the most backward of the vintage at this early stage, with iron-clad grip holding the broad, deep core of blackberry, cassis and roasted fig notes in check for now. The finish is a torrent of dense, almost compressed layers of tobacco leaf, hot paving stone, singed bay leaf and tar that will take at least a decade to massage together fully. This one is for the kids born in 2009. Best from 2020 through 2040. 10,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2009 Haut-Brion has a less precocious but more detailed bouquet, more nuanced perhaps with warm slates baking in the summer sun, tilled loam and cedar infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, perfect acidity, layers of mineral-rich black fruit. This seems to have gained more complexity in recent years and is beginning to flirt with perfection. It’s not there yet, but it is moving in that direction. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits’ Ten Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 97 VMSolid, very structured, packed with dense and dry tannins. There is a core of acidity and darkness that gives the wine a brooding, powerful character. At this stage, it seems austere although it does have the weight of fruit typical of the year.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE(Château Haut Brion) I was rather surprised by the shape and style of the 2009 Haut Brion, which seemed to have at least dipped a toe in the water of the Luxury Wine camp in this vintage. Not a direction I would take if I were the Prince of Luxembourg and in charge of the greatest terroir in all of Bordeaux, but I am not the Prince of Luxembourg. The wine is less ripe than the 2009 La Mission, as it weighs in at a slightly less heady 14.3 percent in this vintage. The bouquet is deep, pure and beautiful, as it offers up a fine mélange of dark berries, cassis, espresso, plenty of soil tones, smoke and a very generous dollop of toasty new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and intensely flavored, with a rock solid core of fruit, excellent focus and a fair bit of wood tannins still in need of absorption on the long, tannic finish. Today the wine is quite marked by the Taransaud component in its oak cocktail, which I have to believe is higher than the percentage used in the second wine. There is little doubt that this wine will eventually gobble up its oak tannins and smooth out a bit on the backend, but one has to ask why there is a need for so much new wood and why so much of it has to be so damn aggressive in its wood spice? These are not the aromatics or flavors of great, traditional Haut Brion, and lest we forget, this magical terroir is really where the entire Bordeaux world as we know it today once originated. Haut Brion’s historical legacy is so deep and wide that it needs take a backseat to no one on the Gironde, so let’s dial back the new wood next year and let this hauntingly mystical terroir once again become the focal point of the grand vin. Not that the 2009 Haut Brion is not a superb wine, but it so clearly could have been even better with a bit more of a traditional focal point. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 91-93+ JG

Forest berry, spice, hay and menthol aromas mingle with whiffs of new leather on this stunning, fragrant Brunello. A top-scorer vintage after vintage, the 2018 combines elegance and a full body, delivering dried cherry, blood orange, licorice and ground clove alongside firm but refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it energized while a saline mineral note adds depth to the finish. Drink 2026–2038. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KORoasted herbs, walnuts, olives, dried cherries and balsamic on the nose with a touch of leather and sage. It’s full-bodied with firm, finely-knit tannins. Creamy and so well integrated with depth and class. Try after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThis 2018 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona in the Castelnuovo dell’Abate zone in the southeast of the appellation produces wines that combine power and elegance. The 2018 is medium ruby colored with plenty of sweet oak-spice and bright, red cherry fruit here and there. There’s lots of charm on the palate and it is a wine that is very gracefully melded together. There is a beautifully refined quality to the tannins. The finish is lingering, creamy and elegant. This wine has so much charm and drinkability. It is not huge wine but it accurately reflects the vintage and it is very appealing.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIThe 2018 Brunello di Montalcino turns out beautiful results if you choose to drink the wine now, or if you opt to age it a little longer. It offers immediate intensity and complexity with a prelude of red and purple berry fruits that follow to tarry spice, campfire ash, licorice and rusty nail. Those savoy tones are well measured against the wine’s elegant, mid-weight finish. And the tannins are integrated seamlessly. The winemaking team has worked well in a challenging vintage. This is a large production of 80,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDense and brooding, revealing plum, cherry, earth, menthol and tobacco flavors. On the austere side today, with buried fruit and dominant tannins, yet this has fine equilibrium and extended length. Best from 2026 through 2043. 4,833 cases made, 2,383 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSSweet cherry, vanilla bean and orange zest are on the nose, which slowly opens to reveal quieter aromas of cured meat and graphite. The palate emphasizes the savory with more sanguine notes pointed up by crisp fruit flavors of red apple skin and Bing cherry, emphasized by well-articulated tannins. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2018 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and brooding, taking its time to blow off a whiff of mocha before opening up with a mix of dried red fruits, cloves and rosemary. This is surprisingly pure and lifted in style while maintaining elegance, as ripe red and black fruits cascade across a core of vibrant acidity. The 2018 leaves the palate buzzing with residual tension, as fine-grained tannins penetrate deeply, and hints of tart wild berry and a dusting of cocoa slowly fade.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The Tua Rita 2018 Syrah Per Sempre is another monumental achievement from this iconic Tuscan estate. Stefano Frascolla and his team have slouched into a very cozy and comfortable relationship with the Syrah grape, and this wine registers marked exuberance, generosity and quality with each vintage that I taste. I had previewed a sample of this 3,500-bottle release earlier in the year but did not give the wine a definitive score. Now on the market, Per Sempre boasts solid footing, rich density, ample fruitiness and pretty notes of spice and charred meat, thanks to 17 months in new French oak. The tannins are especially well managed, soft and integrated.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2018 Per Sempre is one of the best examples of this wine I have tasted. The combination of freshness and elegance of the 2018 vintage combined with the powerful expression of Tua Rita’s Syrah has created something magical: it has a dense, complex nose with liquorice, blackberry, flint, smoke and roasted meat notes. Big, bold flavours of blackberries, wood smoke and liquorice lead to a juicy, bright, savoury finish. It’s concentrated but still manages to be light on its feet.Decanter | 97 DECAromas of blue fruit, white pepper, dried flowers and stone. It’s full-bodied and grows on the palate, showing blue fruit, black tea leaves and chocolate. Bitter orange at the end. This is a baby. Solid and tight. Needs two or three years to come together.James Suckling | 95 JS

Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 20th anniversary bottling of Testamatta made, from the 2019 vintage, in brand new winemaking facilities in Florence. This just shines from the moment it’s poured. Layered and complex this is a gem of a wine filled with cherry, raspberry, damson and caramel notes alongside a savoury edge that makes it so moreish. Tannins that support but don’t overwhelm give a nice overall weight to the palate while the flavous linger on the long finish. Made from old vines on stony soils on the Tuscan hilltops. Grapes are selected and sourced from the best five vineyards, which are divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times. Fermentation is in open-top barriques for the smaller parcels and in barrels or stainless steel for the larger ones without any temperature controls. Maceration for 7-10 days then moved into old barriques for 20 months.Decanter | 96 DECA pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDelicate aromas of red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. Bright and elegantly structured, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice framed in polished tannins. Drink through 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA sleek, well-delineated red, delivering cherry and raspberry flavors on an elegant frame. Fresh, and builds nicely on the mineral- and floral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 90 WS

A ripe red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is expressive of its place, with warming notes of licorice, black cherries, anise, cedar, and dark soil lifting from the glass. As it opens, it becomes purer in its fruit profile, shining through beautifully. Full-bodied, with ripe tannins and a savory slanting profile, notes of espresso and mocha float across the palate, filling it with purity of fruit and lovely concentration through its long finish. It’s a fantastic Brunello with a warming richness that can stand up to hearty winter foods and will be best enjoyed over the next 15 years. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe Uccelliera 2019 Brunello di Montalcino offers ripe fruit, a note of cooked blackberry and pomegranate juice. Along with oak spice and dried bay leaf, there is a spot of creaminess on the mid-palate that recalls cheese rind or aged chèvre with a crust of black pepper and thyme. That note blows off, however, and the wine returns to dried cherry with a medicinal or herbal twist. There’s a lot going on. The wine needs more time in bottle to address the fine, chalky tannins. It is elegant now but poised to improve. Production is 36,000 bottles plus larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPBrooding yet intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino bursts from the glass with a wave of autumnal spices, crushed cherries, cedar shavings and steeped plums lifted by pine hints. This is deeply textural, elegant and refined, with a dense wave of ripe wild berry fruits, all guided by vibrant acidity, offset by oranges and balsam herbs. It finishes grippy and extended with a black hole of tension and a sweet and sour sensation that lingers on and on as crunchy tannins resonate throughout. The 2019 is youthfully backward today, yet there’s a balance that can’t be denied, especially as I watched it open up over twenty-four hours. This is a total pleasure to taste. Bury the 2019 deep in the cellar.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of scorched earth and truffle mingle with blue flower, leather and pipe tobacco on the bold 2019 Brunello from Uccelliera. It’s full-bodied and concentrated but also has great energy, delivering fleshy raspberry, black cherry extract, dried mint and licorice before a nutty close. Tightly wound, close-grained tannins provide firm support while bright acidity keeps it vibrant and balanced. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOPerfumed and attractive with black-cherry and berry aromas, as well as lavender and rosemary flowers. Medium body with firm tannins and a juicy finish. Needs bottle age to soften. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSHaving tasted its component parts from barrel in 2021, I was fascinated to see how Uccelliera’s Brunello came together. Andrea Cortonesi assembles this from a handful of plots all located in the denomination’s southeastern corner. It opens with fragrances redolent of cedar and pine forest, undergrowth and leather. Full and vigorous, the palate is foursquare rather than round. A compact core of dark cherry is surrounded by chewy, generously extracted tannins. A touch of dryness from wood pokes through. Nevertheless, this feels very genuine and underlying acidity gives a lightening effect.Decanter | 93 DEC

Looking at the 2020 Vatan, it comes from a single vineyard planted in 1900. Raised in barrel, this deep purple-hued beauty offers up a gorgeous array of cassis and darker berry fruits as well as integrated classy oak, roasted herb, graphite, and Asian spice-like nuances. It’s a rich, powerful wine yet stays light on its feet and balanced, with beautiful tannins and integrated acidity.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JDThe 2020 Vatan comes from exceptionally old vines in the Quemaos vineyard situated in the Villaester de Abajo area. Aged for 20 months in French oak barrels, it displays a dark purple color. The balsamic nose reveals plums, sour cherries and subtle blackberries over a cedar layer. Rich, creamy and juicy on the palate, the supple tannins and mild intensity lead to a nuanced, enduring finish. This is a vibrant interpretation of a successful year for Toro.Vinous Media | 94 VMLooking at the 2020 Vatan, it comes from a single vineyard planted in 1900. Raised in barrel, this deep purple-hued beauty offers up a gorgeous array of cassis and darker berry fruits as well as integrated classy oak, roasted herb, graphite, and Asian spice-like nuances. It’s a rich, powerful wine yet stays light on its feet and balanced, with beautiful tannins and integrated acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEAn elegant, medium- to full-bodied red that marries a pretty range of macerated black raspberry and boysenberry fruit, violet and bay leaf notes with supple tannins and lively orange peel acidity. Shows hints of spices, mineral and graphite that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 3,500 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSAn overlay of vanilla ice cream to the fresh blackberries and cherries with a hint of coffee and hibiscus flowers. Juicy and tight on the palate, with some fluidity in the center palate. The finish is crunchy and succulent, although it is quite tight and grippy. Come back in 2025.James Suckling | 91 JS

Dark aromas of graphite, potpourri, smoke, bergamot and dried cherries. Firm tannins on the palate, with a full body, a dusty texture, refreshing acidity and a powerful finish. Extracted, meaty, concentrated and balanced for the long haul, with an amazing minty aftertaste. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Barolo Villero is laced with spice, new leather, herbs, menthol and licorice. It exudes depth, structure and classicism, with plenty of the balsamic inflections that are such signatures of Villero. I admire the wine’s virile intensity and overall power. This is a superb showing.Vinous Media | 96 VMMy top pick from this estate in 2021, the Villero bottling is crafted from 65-year-old vines. The southwest-facing plot is characterised by calcareous clay rich in iron, which typically gives solidly structured wines. The house’s confidently extracted style accentuates this but is so well honed that the wine remains in brilliant balance. It is as expressive as it is textured: entrancing aromas convey smoke, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and a burst of violet. While tight and vertical to begin with, a mouthful of stoniness makes way for a richness of dark fruit through the mid-palate, all hemmed in by sophisticated, grainy tannins while sappy acidity lends a cleansing quality.Decanter Magazine | 96 DEC

An exquisite wine, relying primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon from a single estate. Aromas of lavender, dried herbs and grapefruit pith combine with flavors of firm fruits and cocoa on a structure of abundant, powder-fine tannin and a mouthwatering finish. This wine is refined, detailed and delicious, with as much elegance as energy. Best 2026–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 100 WESo much graphite and volcanic character on the nose with metal shavings and gunpowder. Black ink, iron and rust, too. Blackberry and blackcurrant undertones. Full-bodied but not overpowering, with chewy and juicy tannins that are long and very subtle. Superb finish. From biodynamic grapes with Demeter certification. 91% cabernet sauvignon, 4% cabernet franc, 3% carmenere, 1% merlot, and 1% petit verdot. Drinkable now, but better in 2027.James Suckling | 99 JSLastly, the 2021 Proprietary Red was just bottled in July of this year and checks in as 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Carmenere, and the rest Petit Verdot and Merlot, brought up in 64% new French oak. It offers pure blue fruits, spring flowers, violets, and spicy oak, with a beautiful chalky, mineral note that comes through more on the palate. It’s elegant, full-bodied, has ultra-fine tannins, good acidity, and terrific length. It’s another gorgeous wine that will evolve for 15+ years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDA compact, coiled-up, polished red. Intensely aromatic and perfumed, it leads with a distinct burst of cast-iron minerality, dusty sage, red and blackberry fruits, and perfumed rose petals. Medium to full-bodied with a dense core of succulent boysenberry fruit, plums, and kirsch, all of which have tremendous staying power matched only by the wine’s burly, robust and muscular tannins, which offer a real contrast to the supreme elegance of this wine. More time in the bottle is needed to let these tannins soften. If you open it before 2025, let it breathe several hours ahead of time, perhaps even double-decant it. 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Carmenère, 1% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot aged 22 months in 65% new French oak and 3% terracotta amphora.Decanter | 98 DECMarked by scents of cherries and raspberries, with just the barest hints of cedar and mocha-tinged oak, Quintessa’s fruit-forward 2021 Proprietary Red Wine is wonderfully smooth and supple in the mouth. It’s medium to full-bodied, suave and silky, all class and elegance, without any sense of excessive bulk or rusticity. If one were to have a complaint about it (hardly likely), it’s that it comes across as almost too polished, too elegant, too easy to drink.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThis sports a fresh-edged beam of mulberry, black currant and boysenberry fruit, while flashes of hibiscus and violet fill in throughout alongside singed apple wood and iron notes. Shows the vintage’s combo of dense fruit and racy-edged structure, with nice tension. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Best from 2025 through 2038. 10,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2021 Red Wine is an attractive offering from Quintessa. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, mocha, spice and tobacco open gracefully. All the elements are nicely balanced in this understated Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2021 Pinot Noir The South Slope Vineyard is a classic Steven Hansel wine. A rush of dark cherry, plum lavender, rose petal and licorice are all dialed up. This boisterous, exuberant Pinot Noir has a ton of character. Plush contours wrap it all together in style. The 2021 will be nearly impossible to resist on release. What a knock-out!Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2021 Pinot Noir The South Slope Vineyard takes on a notably darker profile, and assuming its name is derived from the exposition of this vineyard, that comes as no surprise. Pouring a dark red/purple hue, in the glass it reveals more warmth and depth, with aromas of blackberry, pine sap, porcini, and violets. The palate is full-bodied, with more hearty richness, a meaty texture, and a rounded frame. With ripe tannins and a more grounded sensibility, it carries an earthier profile and retains a stamp of toastiness on the finish. Though I prefer the energy of the North Slope, this will certainly be a wine that Russian River Valley fans can embrace for a richer style. Drink 2024-2030.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD