Pinot Noir

wines

This great Bonnes Mares starts cool and restrained, but expands rapidly as it moves over the palate, with delicate, spicy almond and cream character. Mouth-filling and generous yet subtle and light-footed, this is at the upper limit of medium-bodied. Then a huge wave of salty minerality comes through at the finish to give the wine a whole extra dimension and making this an almost overwhelming expression of beauty. Drinkable now.James Suckling | 98 JSIn bottle. Made as three cuvees, then assembled. A rich mid purple with a deliciously heady bouquet, the sumptuous side of dark raspberry, perfumed yet precise, purple fruit with some redder layers beneath, a little white pepper spice, multiple layers of fruit, very engaging with just a very slight youthful bitterness. Irreproachable. Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 97 JMAnother cuvée that was also in bottle when I visited, the 2022 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with exotic notes and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it’s concentrated and textural, with nicely integrated tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, rose-inflected finish. Its more sensual style is a welcome evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAn even spicier and more floral-suffused nose is comprised mostly by blue pinot fruit and discreet earth wisps. The succulent, refined and vibrant medium-bodied flavors aren’t especially concentrated though they do possess impressive power on the beautifully long and equally well-balanced finale. This is a wine that is certainly built to repay extended keeping but it’s not so compact that it couldn’t be reasonably approached after only 7-ish years.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru had been bottled in October 2023, just before my visit at the Domaine. It has a compact nose: mainly black cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, well-defined if maybe missing the amplitude of other Bonnes-Mares that I have tasted. The medium-bodied palate has a slightly creamy-textured opening, sweet blackberry and raspberry and touches of dark chocolate and mocha. There’s fine depth on the finish with light grip. Some wood tannins mark the finish and slightly occlude the fruit expression here.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A great Burgundian legend is back in very top form. Enveloping nose of red fruit, red roses and wildflowers. Anything but dramatic, this stuns you with its incredible finesse and extraordinary textural complexity. On the upper edge of medium-bodied, also thanks to the fabulously fine tannins that interlock perfectly with the intense minerality to drive the super-long finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.James Suckling | 99 JSThis is aromatically quite similar to the 1er except that it is notably more restrained and requires considerable swirling to coax the nose to reveal its nuances. On the palate though there is noticeably more size, weight and mid-palate density thanks to the abundant sap that imparts a highly seductive mouthfeel while also buffering the firmer, though just as fine, tannic structure shaping the hugely long, youthfully austere and decidedly powerful finish that is akin to rolling tiny rocks around the mouth. This is also positively brilliant with the development potential to match.Burghound | 96 BHAs mentioned in the introduction, there are seven separate parcellaire cuvées of Musigny which will be blended. We tried four of them, representing different sectors. Les Petits Musigny (north): An even purple, succulent red fruit. Fresh raspberry and strawberry, touch of liquorice, very even, fair acidity, soft tannins. Les 13 ouvrees: Stonier than north Musigny. A touch darker in colour and definitely a richer bouquet, more headily floral. More clearly the weight of Musigny, but also shows as quite a bit riper. Grand Musigny Haut: A glowing mid purple. A lovely tensile strength, not so evidently ripe, but correctly so, red to dark red in fruit. Good acidity, and fairly complete. Grand Musigny Bas: Glowing purple perhaps fractionally deeper than the upper part. The nose is less extrovert but clearly has superb class and a poised density. The sense of completeness of GM Haut but noticeably more intense through the mid palate. The fruit is a fraction riper, perfectly so, with a few suggestions of dark raspberry in the fruit. Very persistent indeed and a freshness to the finish, enough to make a major wine. I don’t feel it correct to award five stars until I have seen the full blended wine, preferably in bottle, but I certainly don’t rule that out. Drink from 2035-2050. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-100 JMThe 2022 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is very attractive, bursting with aromas of cherries, raspberries, blood orange, rose petals and vine smoke. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it’s layered and fleshy, with a deep and seamless core of fruit that conceals powdery structuring tannins, concluding with a broad, perfumed finish. If this fulfills all its promise in bottle, it may make my score look conservative.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP

A good bit of this wine comes from Bishop Creek, up to one-third, though it includes five to six other sites. ‘The idea of this wine is to express both the Valley and the vintage,’ says Jean Nicolas Méo. It’s both a vineyard and barrel selection and 30% new oak. The aromatics are grounded in red florals, with touches of earth and a spritz of spiced blood orange. The palate is elegant and refined, with tart berries, a silken structure and a beautiful finish of savoury spice. We make the barrel selection for this wine first before we make our single vineyard wines. ‘These are the best sites and our best barrels from the vintage,’ says partner Jay Boberg.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Pinot Noir L’Ensemble is a top 100 Wines of the Year contender. Sporting a reflective medium ruby hue in the glass, it’s pretty and inviting on opening, with pure notes of wild berries, delicate spices, crushed stones, and fresh roses. Medium-bodied on the palate, it’s refreshing and light on its feet, with fine tannins, a clean feel all the way through, and a tapered, mouthwatering finish. Seamless and pure, this is a fantastic appellation wine to enjoy over the next 10-12 years. I would snatch up a case or two to enjoy more frequently.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDElegant and pure, this pinot opens with aromas of fresh cherries, red currants, subtle flowers, dried tangerine peel and savory herbs. The palate is medium-bodied and effortlessly balanced, with silky tannins and lively acidity carrying the wine to a long, smooth, slightly spiced finish. I like the mineral tension. Better from 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSA steely version, with chiseled acidity and pinpoint notes of cranberry and cherry that are laced with stony minerality, forest floor and rose petal details as this gathers tension toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2033. 1,348 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThis best barrel selection from prime Willamette Valley vineyards invites you in with aromas of rose petals, red cherries, sweet pea flowers and lemon. Crisp acidity awakens the palate to fresh flavors of boysenberries, rosemary and orange zest. L’Ensemble’s tannins are as silky as its texture. To quote the Fine Young Cannibals, the L’Ensemble is a "Good Thing." Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2022 Pinot Noir L’Ensemble is a total pleasure to take in, mixing wild blueberries and cherries with sweet spice and hints of cola. This is fruit-forward yet refined, with juicy acidity and bitter tinges of clove and citrus that add contrast throughout. It tapers off with medium length, leaving a tart cranberry crunchiness and a pleasantly chewy sensation that persists.Vinous Media | 92 VM

This impeccably structured version shows a simmering intensity that remains graceful on the palate, with detailed raspberry flavors that draw in accents of forest floor and rose petal as this builds tension and richness toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2034. 553 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe Summum comes from the lowest-yielding vines in the La Source parcel and this wine is made with 33% whole cluster. The aromatics balance elegance with deep umami character. Elements of turned earth and smoky rose petals play off against tart blackberries and blood oranges. The palate shows a concentration of fruit yielding freshness throughout. Plum skin and blackberries with mint are given over to savoury herbs, mouthfuls of dried violets, turned earth, smoked sea salt and a hint of nori, a wonderful display of umami and forest floor.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECMade from the oldest vines on the Seven Springs property, this medium-bodied and complex wine seamlessly blends savory notes of black tea and bay leaves with tart cherry, strawberry, raspberry and mushroom undertones. Best from 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe newest Summum is a showstopper. Fresh, floral aromas of mainland roses and tropical plumeria flowers join together with tart red raspberry and roasted pork shoulder notes. A crisp mouthfeel and texture showcase flavors like Rainier cherries, lime and bittersweet dark chocolate. Pour this with grilled portobello mushrooms and Coltrane’s “Giant Steps.”Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2022 Pinot Noir Summum is perfumed with peppery florals and dusty lavender, complementing crushed wild berries. This is full of energy, cooling and racy, with depths of tart red fruit cascading beneath an air of violet and rose. It takes on a grippy sensation as fine tannins mount toward the close. The Summum is fermented using 30-40% whole clusters and refined in 60% new French oak.Vinous Media | 95 VMFermented with whole clusters, the 2022 Pinot Noir Summum unfurls dramatically on the nose, wafts of tar and underbrush giving way to cranberry, autumn leaves and dried flowers. The medium-bodied palate has a concentrated core of nuanced fruit. It’s structured by silky tannins and vibrant acidity and has a long, bitters-laced finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2022 Summum Pinot Noir is an outstanding young wine. Like the la Source bottling this year, the wine comes in at 13.2 percent octane and offers up a superb and utterly refined bouquet of black cherries, sweet dark berries, raw cocoa, dark soil tones, pigeon, woodsmoke and a gentle framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, tangy and precise, with a great core of black fruit, superb soil transparency and grip, ripe, fine-grained tannins and laser-like focus on the long, complex and nascently complex finish. As I have mentioned before, the Summum bottling is made from the same parcels of vines as the la Source, with the team at Evening Land making a vineyard selection of the very finest bunches to be dedicated to this cuvée. This will need an extended period of hibernation, but it will be outstanding once it is ready to go. (Drink between 2037 - 2075)John Gilman | 94 JG

The 2022 village Chambolle from Hudelot-Noëllat is delicious with its deep colour and prominent black plum and cassis fruit aromas touched with lavender. The texture has rewarding freshness and a subtle but sustaining tannic grip that draws it to a lingering finish. The wine is made from the domaine’s 0.85 hectares of village-level vines scattered throughout the village; it is approachable enough to drink early but is also ideally suited to mid-term ageing.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECLovely glowing purple, this is very sensual with an immediate red fruit charm. Very pretty yet with a fresh intensity, redcurrant and raspberry, above all a sense of purity and energy. This will make a beautiful Chambolle. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMOffering up aromas of sweet raspberries, rose petals, mint and licorice, the 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Village is medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, with a pure core of fruit, lively acids and melting tannins. It will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPAn ultra-fresh, airy and decidedly cool nose reflects both red and dark cherry, floral and discreet spice wisps. The succulent but nicely punchy middleweight flavors exude a bracing minerality on the dusty, youthfully austere, precise and well-balanced finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BHThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Village offers crisp red fruit on the nose that will open up once racked in December. The medium-bodied palate offers sapid red fruit, crisp acidity, and good backbone with an uncomplicated piquant finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

The village-level Vosne from Hudelot-Noëllat is perhaps more attractive than ever, with a forward, prominent blackberry aroma and notes of violets, ginger, and earth. The wine has a silky texture and great finesse on the palate, along with an immensely appealing sweet character to the fruit. The grapes come from Basses Maizières, not far from his Suchots. The grapes are fermented as approximately 20% whole clusters, and after a gentle extraction, the wine is ageing in cask (one-quarter new).Decanter Magazine | 94 DECA bright ruby purple. Like the Chambolle the bouquet is all about a primary energy. The Vosne is if anything a tad more precise. Also shows the oak a little more and an extra tannin. Backward, needs more elevage, but very promising. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Village is deeper-pitched than its Chambolle counterpart, evoking dark berries, plums and cherries complemented by subtle hints of mint and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it’s fleshy and enveloping, with refined tannins and a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThis is also wonderfully fresh though with more deeply pitched and spicier aromas. There is even better mid-palate density to the delicious, vibrant and velvet-textured flavors that display focused power on the compact, serious and impressively long finale. This is a very good Vosne villages that is worth considering.Burghound | 89-92 BH