Pinot Noir

wines

(Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also aromatically inhibited with its reluctant nose of plum liqueur, leather, humus and evident floral wisps. Here too there is excellent volume and intensity to the muscular and powerful flavors that are shaped by firm tannins that leave no doubt that this is built-to-age and a wine that’s going to need extended patience. I would add that in the context of the 2017 vintage, this is a big wine. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru offers more red fruit than the Bonnes-Mares, although at the moment this does not quite deliver the same nuance and comeliness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, quite linear and strict (especially for this vineyard), but with a welcome pinch of white pepper and sage towards the persistent finish. Afford it several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn’t as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it’s an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young—though readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade’s patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPaul Zanetti tends to make two different cuvées from the Clos des Epeneaux, one from younger vines and one from the older, left side of the premier cru, planted between 65 and 98 years ago. The combination in bottle is definitely more than the sum of its parts. This is not a blockbuster vintage for what can be an ageworthy wine, but it’s still appealing in a lighter, more approachable mode, with some tannic grip but lots of perfume, finesse and succulent berry sweetness. Drinking Window 2024 - 2029Decanter | 94 DEC(Domaine Comte Armand/Clos des Epeneaux Pommard "Clos des Epeneaux" 1er Cru Red) There is still just enough wood present to merit mentioning as it frames the herbal tea-inflected blend of both red and dark currant scents that are cut with leather and underbrush nuances. The supple medium-bodied flavors possess reasonable though not distinguished mid-palate concentration before terminating in a lingering if slightly attenuated finish. The supporting tannins are sufficiently firm that this youthfully austere effort will need at least a few more years of keeping first. A Clos des Epeneaux of relative finesse. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 91 BH

The older vines in de Vogüé’s extensive 7.2ha in Musigny date back to 1953 and make a wine that’s considerably weightier than the young-vine cuvée. This is very deep and intense in colour, exhibiting layers of dark bramble and black cherry flavours and a backbone of precise, chalky, mouthwatering acidity. A wine that needs time to digest its 35% new wood. Drinking Window 2026 - 2037Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is complex and well defined on the nose, where touches of iodine and wild heather infuse the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture; notes of black truffle and fresh fig complement a fruit profile that welcomes more red fruit toward the finish. Hints of white pepper and sage linger on the aftertaste. This is certainly beginning to close up in bottle, so allow a decade if you can for this Musigny to show what it is capable of.Vinous Media | 95 VMAn openly exotic nose offers glimpses of black cherry liqueur, ginger, Asian-style tea, sandalwood and orange peel. The tighter and much more mineral-driven big-bodied flavors also possess evident muscle on the powerful and dense yet beautifully refined finish that goes on and on. This is also a bit less structured though with that said, this is going to need at least 15 years to reach its apogee. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is showing very well indeed, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, rose petal, warm spices and orange rind, framed by creamy new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and velvety, with the greatest depth and dimension of any wine in the cellar, displaying excellent energy and completeness, and distinguished above all by striking length on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2017 Musigny old vine bottling was quite hunkered down after its recent racking, but though it was not as expressive as the Bonnes-Mares on this particular day, it showed good underlying soil signature and seemed to only be in need of more time out from the racking for everything to snap back into proper place. The wine certainly has lovely fruit elements in its mix of sappy black cherries and plums, complex soil tones, woodsmoke, gamebird, violets and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a good sappy core of black fruit, fine-grained tannins and lovely length and grip on the refined and quite soil-driven finish. This wine is not as precise as is customary (and which has to be a reflection of the post-racking period in which I tasted it), but there are really good elements here and if they all fall back into place properly, it will be a lovely wine. (Drink between 2030-2080)John Gilman | 93-95 JG

For the third vintage in a row, this 0.32ha plot, ranging in age between 60 and 80 years, has produced the best wine at the domaine. It's a stunning grand cru that was deceptively easy to taste from barrel. Elegant, refined and sensuous, it's a soprano of a wine with beautifully pitched chalky precision, a hint of earth and subtle wild strawberry fruit. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru has a showstopping, persistent bouquet of intense blackberry, sous-bois and crushed stone. The supremely well-balanced palate offers filigreed tannin, wonderful mineralité and an otherworldly-long finish. One of the most elegant Richebourgs that I have tasted. Best Richebourg in show this year? Quite possibly. Six barrels produced.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM(Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg Grand Cru Red) The elegant, airy and beautifully perfumed nose offers up notes of sandalwood, anise, clove, herbal tea and plenty of floral influences. There is excellent delineation and minerality to the solidly concentrated, indeed even muscular, large-scaled flavors that culminate in an incredibly long if very, very backward, austere and compact finale. This Zen-like effort is going to require an extended snooze in a cool cellar and as such, it's a wine to buy and forget that you own it for at least a decade. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 95 BHThe king of the cellar is the 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru, a decidedly promising wine that wafts from the glass with notes of rose petal, dark wild berries, smoke, Asian spices, espresso roast, licorice and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, its satiny structuring tannins cloaked in succulent, fleshy fruit, its finish long and vibrant. The Richebourg stands apart for its amplitude and completeness this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RP

The Dujac holdings in this large and heterogeneous Gevrey grand cru are divided between four blocks, totalling 0.75ha and planted in the 1950s and 1970s. This is a very smart expression of the terroir, showing notes of Asian spices, dense, savoury fruit flavours and sappy, fine-boned tannins. The oak integration is quite brilliant here. Drinking Window 2025 - 2032.Decanter | 96 DEC(Charmes-Chambertin- Domaine Dujac) When Jeremy moved from the Echézeaux to the Clos St. Denis in our tasting progression, I asked why the Charmes was going to be served out of its customary place in the rotation. He responded that “I really, really like the Charmes this year and we will see if my faith in the wine has been misplaced.” However, not surprisingly, when we got to the wine, Jeremy’s impressions were vindicated and the wine showed stellar potential- even hard on the heels of the great Clos de la Roche! The bouquet is pure and simply outstanding in 2017, offering up scents of red and black cherries, black plums, a very complex base of soil, gentle meatiness, woodsmoke, raw cocoa and cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and rock solid at the core with sappy fruit, excellent focus and grip, fine-grained tannins and a very long, soil-driven and complex finish. I am not sure I have ever tasted a better young vintage of Charmes-Chambertin from Domaine Dujac. (Drink between 2027-2075).John Gilman | 95 JGThe 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing brilliantly from bottle, bursting from the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, cassis, orange rind, spices, black truffle, espresso roast and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and mouthfilling, with a layered and nicely concentrated core, ripe tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a long and expansive finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RP(Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) The sauvage-suffused nose reflects a discreet touch of wood on the cool and pure essence of red berry fruit nose that projects plenty of floral, earth, forest floor and anise elements. The rich and muscular medium weight plus flavors display touches of salinity and youthful austerity on the otherwise sneaky long but compact finish. This isn't elegant or especially dense but it is a relatively dense 2017 and one that should age well. (Drink starting 2029).Burghound | 91 BH

(Chambertin “Clos de Bèze”- Domaine Armand Rousseau) The 2017 Clos de Bèze from Domaine Rousseau is an equally compelling wine in the making, but it is a bit the inverse right now of the Chambertin, as it is a bit more reserved on its youthful nose, but more open and flamboyant on the palate. The bouquet is very, very pure, precise and promising, offering up scents of red and black raspberries, cherries, raw cocoa, a very complex base of minerality, lovely spice tones and a very well-done framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and sappy at the core, with superb transparency and grip, ripe, seamless tannins and a very long, very energetic and vibrant finish. The wine is already suave and caressing on the attack, with all of this sappy reserve at the core and yet, it finishes completely defined by its complex minerality. A great wine. (Drink between 2030-2100).John Gilman | 98 JG(Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Red) While the wood treatment is certainly evident it remains reasonably subtle on the overtly cool and restrained nose that is markedly spicy with its broad-ranging combination of exuberantly fresh aromas of dark cherry, raspberry, rose petal, violet, plum and a suggestion of earth. There is excellent power and punch to the large-scaled flavors that are a combination of power and refinement while being blessed with an abundance of sappy dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mouthcoating, hugely long and firmly structured and chiseled finish. While the Chambertin appears to have a slight edge at this very early juncture due to having slightly better complexity, it's going to be interesting in 20 to 25 years' time to see which is the better wine! (Drink starting 2027).Burghound | 96 BHSumptuously oaked and always poured last in any tasting at Domaine Rousseau, this is riper and plusher than the straight Chambertin bottling, with the power and density to age well, framed by 100% new wood and showing a bloody, ferrous undertone. Drinking Window 2027 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has quite a high-toned bouquet, a touch of boot polish coming through and then receding to reveal very complex floral aromas. The elegant palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, perfect acidity and fine proportion. Maybe it is missing a little weight on the back end, but it is still a refined Clos-de-Bèze that will age with grace. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2017 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru bursts from the glass with extroverted aromas of dark, plummy fruits that mingle with notes of chocolate, licorice, sweet oak spice, grilled meats and espresso. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and ample with broad shoulders, a generous core of fruit and more mid-palate amplitude and tannic bite than the Chambertin.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

Deeper ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir De Villiers Vineyard reveals more black raspberry, sassafras, tea, and spicy notes. It’s medium-bodied, with a juicy, elegant style and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDA juicy and powerful red with blackberries, dried strawberries, walnuts and spice undertone. Full-bodied and chewy with layers of tannins and a flavorful finish. Hints of bark and spice. Needs time to soften, but impressive. Drink after 2025, but already beautiful.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2017 Pinot Noir de Villiers Vineyard is fabulous. Rich, exotic and bold, the 2017 offers striking immediacy. Inky dark fruit, spice, lavender and menthol open up first, followed by a range of more savory, mineral notes that are typical of Mt. Harlan. The interplay of fruit intensity and structure makes for a compelling Pinot.Vinous Media | 94 VMPale to medium ruby-purple, the 2017 Pinot Noir deVilliers Vineyard, aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, gives up broody cherry coulis, underbrush, crushed stone, dried redcurrants and cranberries aromas with notions of blood orange, tea leaves and cured meats. Medium-bodied, intense and layered, it’s well framed and juicy with a long and pleasantly restrained finish. 1,382 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDe Villiers is an east-facing site more or less in the middle of Calera’s Mt. Harlan vineyards, planted in 1997. In 2017, it produced a wine considerably more savory than most of its counterparts, with a wild berry scent and tealike accents. The fruit flavors are light and attenuated, more about perfume than flavor, marked by the tangy, mildly mineral grip of the mountain’s chalk soils.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SWell-sculpted, with alluring sandalwood and allspice notes to the dried cherry and plum tart flavors. Savory richness emerges midpalate, leading to an extended finish that offers brioche and cream details. Drink now through 2024. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSRoasted boysenberry, crushed stone, baked earth and a slight plum-skin tang show on the nose of this bottling from vines planted in 1996. There’s a warm-weather sense on the palate, where cooked berry flavors dominate, yet the acid and rocky tension keep it complex and intenseWine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The most Vosne-Romanée-like of the Nuits-St-Georges Premiers Crus according to Etienne Grivot, with a character that he identifies as ’a little wild’, Aux Boudots often produces on my favourite wines at the domaine. It’s plush, smooth and glossy all right, with a sheen of aromatic 30% new wood, fine tannins and some underlying bounce and vitality.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECA well of black currant and blueberry mark this sappy, yet beefy red. It’s a tannic Titanic, with a dense, compact finish that echoes the dark fruit, spice and iron notes. The aftertaste is saturated with fruit. Impressive, yet will require time to resolve the tannins. Best from 2025 through 2047. 53 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSHalf the vines were ripped out 5 years ago and will come back into play in 2020 maybe. Bouncing concentrated dark red fruit, not too exuberant on the palate though, an excellent fine-grained tannic structure behind, and exceptional length. This has been picked at optimum ripeness. Tasted Nov 2019.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru comes from the old part of the vineyard, half of which was replanted in spring 2017 (these young vines may reenter this cru next year, or more likely the Bourgogne Rouge until they reach maturity). The crisp, fresh, well-defined bouquet is probably the best among Grivot’s Nuits Saint-Georges this year, reflecting the pedigree of this vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive mineralité and tension, quite "strict" in style but boasting so much coiled-up energy on the finish that you could easily drink it now. This is a superb offering that should age with grace and style over many years.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThis too is quite firmly reduced to the point that it’s unreadable today. Otherwise the less concentrated but finer middle weight flavors exude evident minerality on the tautly muscular bitter cherry-inflected finish that is a bit leaner and less complex. The younger vines are in evidence though to be fair, and clear, this is still a very pretty effort.Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is showing brilliantly this year, wafting from the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of cassis, blackberries, spices and dark chocolate. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, rich and enveloping, its textural attack segueing into a deep and layered core, concluding with a long and penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru was more backward than the Les Beaumonts and demanded more coaxing to offer raspberry, wild strawberry, sous-bois, touches of morels and light sage aromas, gradually unfolding from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite strict and maybe a little rustic for a Les Suchots, but with fine grip and spiciness toward the finish. This will require 4–5 years to fully meld.Vinous Media | 93+ VMThis is spicier still and a bit riper as well if not quite so elegant on the variety of black berry fruit aromas that are trimmed in very subtle wood. The velvety, generous and extremely rich flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the, robust, muscular and bitter cherry pit-inflected finale. As is usually the case, this is not as refined but it’s definitely more powerful.Burghound | 92 BHSuchots is quite a way further down the slope than Beaumonts and is always a riper wine as a result, which in 2018 gives it a bit more of a roasted character here (again, very reminiscent of a 1990 Vosne), but still with plenty of complexity and breed. The nose wafts from the glass in a mix of roasted cassis, blackberries, roasted meats, dark soil tones, a bit of coffee grounds, bonfire and a topnote of Vosne spices. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely plush at the core, with far more mineral drive on the backend than the nose suggests, good focus and grip and a long, ripely tannic finish. This is a very good bottle in the making and I am sure that some might prefer its more flamboyant style than that of the Beaumonts, but I have a slight preference for the latter. (Drink between 2028 - 2060)John Gilman | 91 JGFrom vines planted in the 1910s, towards the bottom of the vineyard where there is plenty of earth but not down in the dip. Glowing mid purple. Soft and luscious but then with good energy behind and very good length. As always a very discreet wine, and in this case a very fine one. Tasted Nov 2019.Jasper Morris | 91-95 JM

The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was wonderful from barrel but now it seems to have gone up another level. It has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful mineralité infusing the brambly red fruit. Wonderful focus and quite profound complexity. You could nose this forever. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins married with a killer line of natural acidity. Everything is perfectly proportioned in this wine, very persistent with layers of dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and tea leaf on the finish. Immense. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 98 VMDense purple. Succulent ripe fruit, rich cherries, seductive yet not quite too much of a good thing. More oak emerges but in harness with a hugely impressive weight of fruit. This is an absolute baby. A few stems support the profile and while they add a lightly drying touch, this is a monumental wine for the very long term future. Drink from 2035. Tasted Sep 2022.Jasper Morris | 98 JMThe 2018 Clos de Tart demonstrates the superior nature of great terroir and mature vines. This is still a big year with very ripe fruit, but there is more elegance to the grand cru than La Forge de Tarte, the premier cru, and a sophistication that is lacking in the lesser wine. Ripe black cherry and plum fruit with a bit more oak, and some additional mineral nuance, lead gracefully to the powerful but fine-grained texture, impressive density and marvellously balanced finish. Although this does not have the elegance of 2019, it shows how great the ’18s can be with a sensitive hand.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECGentle but perceptible wood is present on the lightly mentholated nose of super-spicy and quite floral essence of poached plum and cassis-scented nose. There is a beguiling sense of underlying tension to the delicious middle weight plus flavors that culminate in a dusty, palate coating and beautifully complex finish that also reveals a touch of warmth. The 2018 Clos de Tart is not quite as concentrated as it usually is, but it still has the stuffing to improve over the next 20 years and it should hold for many years after that. I would also observe that it’s more powerful but less refined than the 2019 version.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru opens in the glass with rich aromas of raspberries, plum preserve, ripe berries, warm spices and rose petals, framed by a generous touch of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it’s rich, muscular and extracted, with a brooding, introverted profile that will require—and, one hopes, reward—patience. As I wrote last year, this is a powerful, broad-shouldered Clos de Tart that has more in common with the wines of the Pitiot era than it does with what the domaine produced in 2015, 2016, 2017 or 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.Vinous Media | 97-99 VM(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A ripe and super-fresh nose offers up notes of black raspberry, plum liqueur, Asian-style tea and a whiff of incense. The racy, intense and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors retain outstanding delineation as well as an abundance of palate soaking dry extract before delivering stunningly good length where an interesting hint of citrus character in the form of mandarin orange appears. This incredibly powerful effort is both classy and highly complex and like the Bonnes Mares, is a wine that will live for decades. With that said, it’s not so backward and compact to preclude it being approachable after only 10 to 12 years. A knockout by any standard. (Drink starting 2043)Burghound | 97 BHAll the vines that are used to produce this extensive cuvée of Musigny are over 25 years’ old, so it always has good concentration. But in 2018, it’s an especially big, dense, powerful wine with masses of inky colour, assertive one-third new oak, plenty of plush bramble and black cherry fruit, undertones of sweet spices and liquorice and a chalky flourish. Needs time. Drinking Window 2026 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes was also in fine form at the time of my visit, as the racking for this cuvée was just starting and there were plenty of untouched casks to choose from for sampling. The wine is very deep and still very primary on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in a sappy blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, dark chocolate, gamebird, woodsmoke, soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off excellent mid-palate depth of sappy fruit, with good mineral drive, ripe, seamless and buried tannins, fine focus and grip and a long, focused and classy finish. All this needs is time in the cellar! (Drink between 2038-2085).John Gilman | 95 JG

Sensual’ is the word Véronique Drouhin uses to describe this remarkable wine and there is certainly something fleshy, enticing and engaging about this polished, refined Grand Cru bottling. Made with 40% whole bunches and 30% new wood, it’s bright, perfumed and very silky with lacy tannins and no sign of the heat of the vintage. Decadent stuff. Drinking Window 2026 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2018 Musigny Grand Cru is slightly lighter than the Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside and has a more detailed, precise bouquet of intense blackberry, mulberry, sous-bois and light charcoal aromas that gain power with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, very sensual and seductive. The polished and lightly spiced finish is pure class. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM(Maison Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru Red) A highly restrained nose requires plenty of swirling to coax the super-floral and spicy aromas to reveal nuances of plum liqueur, red cherry and sandalwood. The marvelously refined middle weight flavors possess a beguiling satin-like texture yet there is no lack of punch on the wonderfully long, complex and well-balanced finish. Like the Amoureuses, this stunningly classy effort is a knockout that should also age effortlessly over the long-term. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 94-96 BH

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very elegant bouquet that is more poised and detailed than the Charmes-Chambertin, offering black cherries, raspberry and ground gravelly scents; floral notes emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, gorgeous blueberry and strawberry fruit and a silky-smooth, sensual finish that is utterly refined. Stunning.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries and rose petals, framed by a deft touch of new oak, and on the palate it’s more reserved than the Charmes at this early stage. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly structural, it’s lively and nicely defined, but it will need a bit more time than the Charmes to come around. As readers will remember, Dugat’s vines in Chapelle-Chambertin are located in lieu-dit Les Gémeaux, a site that tends to produce somewhat more structured wines than adjacent lieu-dit La Chapelle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RP(Domaine Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) A riper and more deeply pitched nose is comprised by notes of plum, cassis, violet and discreet earth and spice nuances. The sleek and almost painfully intense big-bodied flavors possess event power and muscle while delivering excellent persistence on the minerally, crunchy and youthfully austere finish. This too is very clearly constructed for the long-term and it’s pointless to buy this without the expectation of aging it properly. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 92-94 BH

This bold and well-concentrated wine from an outstanding single vineyard layers ripe plum and rich black cherry on a broad, fine-grained texture. Accents of turned earth, woodsmoke and cinnamon add lift to the mix.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

This is perhaps the spiciest wine in the range with a lovely mix of anise, exotic tea and sandalwood on the deeply pitched dark berry fruit aromas that also evidence a hint of volatile acidity. The rich, full-bodied and mouthcoating big-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract before concluding in a grippy and mildly rustic finish that still manages to deliver very good length. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2018 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard is quite deep and heady in this vintage. Red fruit, iron, white pepper and savory herbs give the Ryan its distinctly incisive, feral personality. Hints of blood orange, raspberry and spice add an exotic flair. There is plenty of character here, that is for sure.Vinous Media | 94 VMComing from vines that provided less than one ton per acre, this concentrated bottling begins with aromas of blackberry, loamy soil and a hint of violet. The palate is wrapped in chalky tannins yet remains bright with black-raspberry and elderflower flavors. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WECalera’s highest elevation vineyard on Mt. Harlan, Ryan produced a powerful wine in 2018—rich, flavorful, broad in structure—all of it delivered with a compact texture that’s a marvel of control. It leads with scents of chocolate mint, black plum and beeswax, glossy, vinous and firm, the dark fruit flavors brushing up against sage-scented mountain scrub. A big wine; all of its weight is in the right place for skirt steak.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SRipe and well-focused, offering gently mulled loganberry and black cherry fruit, with steeped black tea, incense and savory details. This is carried by a fine chalky spine through a lengthy finish. Solidly built and one for the cellar. Best from 2023 through 2033. 752 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This winery makes some of the more exciting wines in California right now, and this appellation blend offers a more affordable look at the style. Aromas of black raspberry, thyme, lavender and rose petals lead into a taut, energetic and expansive palate of fresh fruit and flower flavors. Brisk acidity pumps to the finish.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains) is fabulous. Dark, deep and exquisitely layered, the appellation Pinot shows just how outstanding 2018 is. There is so much to admire. Time in the glass brings out myriad shades of red/purplish berry fruit, spice, licorice, menthol, sage and blood orange. What a wine!Vinous Media | 93 VM

A full-bodied, richly textured example thanks to the richer soils on the estate’s southern borders. You can expect attractive aromas of violets, herbs and red cherries. There’s a sumptuous veil of fine-grained tannins that coat the mouth and add sinew and a sense of purpose on the medium-length finish. If you were feeling intrepid, you could approach this now with a decent hunk of meat, but leave it for a couple of years to enjoy its evolution of flavor and tannin.Vinous Media | 91 VMExuberant, offering juicy cherry, blood orange and fresh herb accents, with spice, green tea and dried lavender notes on a supple, vibrant frame. Drink now through 2035. 1,800 cases made, 448 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThis is on the dense, rich side by Pinot standards, but is balanced and food friendly. It leads with supple black cherry, plum, chocolate, medicinal herbs, black pepper and warm tarmac aromas. A zing of acidity buoys the succulent fruit. Spicy tannins keep a firm grip right to the finish. Drink now with protein until 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

The 2019 Pinot Noir The Sum has a medium ruby color and takes time to reveal scents of red and black cherries, tangerine peel, pipe tobacco, potpourri and licorice. The medium-bodied palate is powdery and energetic with expansive, savory fruits and a long, layered finish that hints at more to come. Intense and complex without any extra weight, this expressive Pinot Noir deserves another 2-3 years in bottle to unwind.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Pinot Noir The Sum utilizes 50-60% whole clusters and is fresh with red raspberry, cinnamon, and fresh herbs. The palate is dry and medium-bodied, with grenadine, orange peel, and baking spice. Drink 2023-2033.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDI like the earthy sous-bois character here, with notes of dried flowers, mulberries, spiced cherries, mushrooms and truffles. Medium-bodied, sleek and savory, with fine-grained tannins and a spicy, long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSTense and dynamic, with deeply structured wild berry, crushed stone and dusky spice flavors that build toward broad-shouldered tannins. Hands off for now. Best from 2024 through 2031. 492 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very well defined, quite vivid bouquet with blueberry, loganberry, pitted black olive and light sea spray aromas. This is one of the best aromatics that I have encountered from this Grand Cru in 2019. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It is actually quite "Mazis" in style thanks to the structure, though it closes down a touch towards the almost surly finish. This is a "serious" Charmes-Chambertin from Arnaud Mortet that deserves several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMThe holding is next to Griotte-Chambertin, with a soil full of small stones. 50% whole bunches here. This 2019 Charmes-Chambertin is remarkably stylish and not too obviously opulent. Instead it is beautiful, balanced, filling the mouth graciously with pure red fruit, and a lovely follow through, finesse throughout and very persistent. Tasted: November 2020.Jasper Morris | 94-98 JMServed after the Chambertin this year. A full crop unaffected by the frost. Full bright purple, less crimson than Chambertin. The nose has a toasty reduction. There is the expected intensity of fruit of but it is in a slightly undigested form at the moment, and the acidity is a little more prominent. This may show better a little further down the road. Tasted: October 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA relatively high-toned array is composed of red cherry, pomegranate and raspberry along with oak and warm earth nuances. The mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is less full-bodied but slightly finer before delivering outstanding persistence on the seductively textured and more mineral-driven finale. This is really quite lovely and fashioned in an understated style. Make no mistake though, this beauty should age just as well as the Mazoyères.Burghound | 92-94 BH

Unfurling in the glass with aromas of red berries, rose petals, sweet soil tones and orange rind, the 2019 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles is medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, with a fleshy core of fruit and a vibrant, seamless profile, concluding with a fragrant, peony-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDe Montille has two parcels of Pézerolles totalling 1.35ha, located just above Petits Epenots, nearly at the northern limit of the appellation. The vineyard delivers a most un-Pommardian sort of wine; supple and approachable, with sweet cherry fruit and a tender, silky texture on the palate that recalls the wines of Volnay. It is fermented with 50% whole clusters and the wine is approachable now, yet should age well for years to come.Decanter | 93 DECThe vines are a mix of old and young, with replantings now on stream. The old vines have been vinified as whole bunches, around 40% overall. Medium depth of colour, and a slightly darker fruit, less sweetly sensual than the Grands Epenots. This is not a monster, but does stretch out beautifully to a fine long finish. Darker cherry and raspberry throughout. Tasted Oct 2020.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2019 Pommard Les Pézerolles 1er Cru is much more backward on the nose compared to de Montille’s other Pommards, offering brambly red berry fruit, clove and bay leaf. The palate is beautifully balanced, the 50% whole cluster contributing a light pepperiness but allowing the terroir to shine. Smooth on the finish. Vinous Media | 91-93 VMHere too there is a whiff of volatile acidity that plays at the edge of perceptibility on the mostly red berry fruit and spice infused nose. There is a lovely sense of refinement to the nicely rich and well-delineated flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the sneaky long, firm and youthfully austere finale. While not technically perfect, this is still really quite good.Burghound | 90-93 BH

Aromas of peonies, plums, red berries, potpourri, warm spices and orange rind introduce de Montille’s 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy wine that’s deep and concentrated, with lively acids and supple tannins that assert themselves gently on the finish. As usual, this will require some patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis 1.51ha parcel of Taillepieds is located at the top of the hill in gravelly soils. The grapes were entirely fermented as whole clusters and the result is wonderful. Initially somewhat closed, it opens with time to show lovely plummy fruit, with a hidden reserve of floral and garrigue aromas, plus a marked saline character. The texture at this stage is somewhat severe, with firm, slightly austere tannins, but the density suggests it will open up with time.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2019 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has a riper nose than Buffet’s Taillepieds. Fleshy Morello cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of orange peel and background black truffle nuances linger. The palate is medium-bodied, with finely chiseled tannins and a clever reduction at play here that lends edge toward the finish. Exuding good energy and becoming more peppery in the glass, this should age with style once it absorbs its patina of oak. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMA super-floral nose seems to have every floral element in the book including a perfumed hint of gardenia that adds a touch of elegance to the exotically spicy aromas of red and black raspberry. The pure and almost painfully intense flavors are like rolling tiny stones around in the mouth while delivering outstanding depth and persistence on the overtly austere, serious and compact finale that leaves zero doubt that this beauty is built-to-age. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 92-95 BHA light to medium red, attractively perfumed. There is a sterner structure on the palate, with some evidence of whole bunches adding a salinity to the finish. A little liquorice touch as well. This is relatively restrained and I suspect there may yet be more to develop. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Sep 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Graceful mid purple with a supple and elegant dark red fruit. A certain nobility to this, and a little deeper riper and darker fruit than the village blend. Very attractive fruit including some blackberry. Maybe too dark for some? Tasted Nov 2020.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMA less expressive, even somewhat brooding nose, grudgingly reflects notes of poached plum, black raspberry and spice nuances. The finer and more mineral-driven middle weight flavors possess equally good verve along with fine depth and persistence on the pit fruit-inflected finish. This is lovely and notably less Gevrey in character; indeed its proximity to Morey is evident.Burghound | 90-92 BHMingling aromas of cherries, berries, peonies and orange rind, the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux is medium-bodied, lively and elegant. As usual, it’s a touch less rich and muscular than its Vieilles Vignes counterpart from the other side of the appellation.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

The 2019 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru is laden with more new oak on the nose compared to its peers, and, as such, it doesn’t possess the same delineation and terroir expression. There is some reduction and Brettanomyces at play here. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannins, but is a little chewy and rustic. There is a very slight but nagging vegetal edge on the finish that just detracts from the overall harmony, though that may resolve with time. It looks as if it has been overtaken by their Latricières-Chambertin. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMA riper and spicier but still appealingly fresh nose presents notes of poached plum, red currant and a plethora of floral elements that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The more voluminous and richer medium-bodied flavors are less mineral-driven but more caressing and seductively textured while offering excellent length on the ever-so-mildly warm and vaguely sweet finale. This too could use a bit more depth, but the underlying material appears to be present for that to gradually develop. With that said, the sweetness of the finish renders this a bit less attractive than its two grand cru brethren.Burghound | 91 BHThe sombre side of crimson. This is showing a slightly heavy and reductive nose. Better on the palate but still on the heavy side, freshened by some stems, but there might be a bacterial element too. Not on form today, to revisit. Tasted Sep 2023.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

A very rich and concentrated wine that borders on opulence, but has a ton of fine tannins and enough acidity to keep it fresh. Some chocolate and coffee from new oak, but the very ripe red fruit is also very present. Very bold finish with plenty of tannin, but nothing dominant. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSA blend of their own grapes plus those from a well-known grower in the appellation, made in the barrel, à la vinification intégrale. Far from the deepest colour, with a really stylish nose, some strawberries, gentle and graceful. Then an enormous depth of fruit behind, smoothly sensual finish. A very good example. Tasted Dec 2020.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2019 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is promising, bursting from the glass with aromas of wild berries, coniferous forest floor, sweet spices, orange oil and peonies. Full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, it’s a sumptuous, gourmand Clos de Bèze, framed by velvety tannins and lively acids.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPMuch like the Vosne "1er", there is a hint of herbal tea sitting atop the markedly spicy and floral scented nose of red and dark currant and sandalwood. There is outstanding volume to the extract rich large-scaled flavors that conclude in a balanced, long and youthfully austere finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth. This needs to develop better depth though the track record of this perennially distinguished wine all but guarantees more will progressively develop.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru contains around 30% whole cluster and is vinified in 500-liter barrels instead of open-top fermenters. It is very aromatic on the nose, presenting strong floral/peony aromas and touches of oyster shell and sea cave. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a slightly brutish finish compared to the Clos Vougeot. Vinous Media | 91-93 VM