Pinot Noir

wines

The Très Girard is spot-on typical Morey, with a bit more tannin and grip and less sweet fruit than some of the other offerings in the cellar. Since he doesn’t have a lot of village-level vines, he has purchased fruit from this site in the heavier soils at the base of the slope for many years. One-third of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing in cask (20% new). This should open in three to five years and drink well for 10 years or more afterwards.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECPurchased in grapes since 2009. A full ruby crimson. Rich bright fruit on the nose, a wealth of dark cherry and raspberry on the palate, even if a little bit firm in tannins at the finish. They will settle down. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard is blended with 30% whole cluster. It offers dark berry fruit mixed with brown spices and nicely integrated 50% new oak. The palate is fresh and very harmonious on the entry with finely chiseled tannins and a tensile, precise finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

I think of Lignier’s ‘Trilogie’ as a village++. The grape blend is nearly two-thirds from the village-level part of Chenevery, planted in the 1960s, withi a bit of fruit from old cordon-trained vines in the clay-rich soils of Clos Solon, and a bit more of Les Porroux (30%), the total amounts to a hectare of old vines, low-yielding due to age, even in 2023. The ripe plum and currant fruit aromas are accented by hints of smoke and spice and a suggestion of black tea. The texture has lovely depth and richness, and should drink well for 20 years at least.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECA blend of Chenevery, Clos Solon and Les Porroux. Mid ruby in colour. The fruit is sufficiently ripe to cover the structure without turning into lush dark fruit., More of a sweet red cherry. Excellent intensity, this is a cut above Très Girard both in class and intensity. Tannins are present, but subdued beneath the fruit. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie comes from three parcels (as you would expect). This has a perfumed, floral bouquet with touches of peony infusing the dark berry fruit and hints of bay leaf coming through with time. The palate is very well balanced with a sorbet-fresh entry and lively blood orange infusing the dark cherry and cassis fruit on the crunchy finish. This is what you might describe as a "solid" Morey-Saint-Denis without the flair or chutzpah of the Vieilles Vignes.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The Pommard En Brescu from Domaine Hubert Lignier is high-toned with red berry-fruit aromas and a floral edge. It’s light bodied with fresh acidity and firm tannins. The grapes are from 0.40ha that Lignier purchased in 2014, planted on terraces high on the slope overlooking the Clos des Mouches. The grapes are partially destemmed and fermented with native yeasts before ageing in cask (20% new).Decanter Magazine | 93 DECVines in terraces, planted 1997, vines purchased 2014. A lighter crimson ruby colour. Some firm red berry fruit on the nose. Plenty of energy on the palate, actually fills the mouth despite this being a cool, hillside site. A fine long dark red fruit finish, covering the tannins. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JMDeep ruby color. A distinctly earthy yet cool and airy nose of both red and dark currant introduces caressing, delicious and seductively textured medium weight flavors that also conclude in a dusty, youthfully austere and firm but not grippy finish.Burghound | 87-90 BH

The 2023 Volnay Village comes from two lieux-dits. It has a lively, punchy bouquet with blackcurrant and raspberry scents and great vigor. The palate is smooth and sensual, with touches of dark chocolate and pain d’épices infusing the red berry fruit with a caressing and quite persistent finish. This is very fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Lignier’s new cuvée in Morey is the premier cru Les Sorbès. The wine boasts a ripe blackberry fruit with an almost gamey savoury note and hints of mineral and spice. Although the flavour is substantial, the texture is pleasantly ethereal, almost like a wine from Chambolle. This is the first vintage of this wine; Lignier sourced enough fruit for four barrels from the site located down the slope below the Clos de Tart and the village.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECSlightly fuller crimson colour with a floral nose, a touch of peony. All destemmed as it is the first year of this contract. More sweet cherry fruity intensity on the palate, a little gentian at the finish, an interesting, complex wine. The fruit has more sucrosity than some. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMHere too there is a hint of herbal tea on the softly wooded nose of earthy red currant aromas. The seductive, round and utterly delicious middle weight flavors are shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the youthfully austere and lingering finale where the only reproach is a touch of warmth. This is a wine of finesse but with sufficient stuffing to repay up to a decade of aging.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Sorbés comes from a purchase of fruit that represents four barrels this year. This has a vibrant floral bouquet with lovely delineation and lift, as rose petal and bergamot infuse the raspberry fruit. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a caressing finish, a little fleshy and perhaps Chambolle-like. This will drink well in its youth.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

From a vineyard that was originally planted in 1982, with 12 feet spacing between the rows, the 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard boasts a youthful ruby red color and lifts with notes of cranberries, cinnamon, clove, dusty earth, and minty herbs. The energy of the palate is fantastic, with salty minerality, refreshing acidity, and a long, energetic finish. It’s packed with tension and should only improve over the next several years with some patience. This was my favorite in the range at this tasting, Drink it over the coming 20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDAn elegant, delicious and structured medium-bodied wine with pleasing aromas of bright raspberries, strawberries, crushed rose petals, pink peppercorns and some cool blue fruit. A nervy backbone with fine, chalky, mouth-filling tannins and a zesty finish that goes on and on. Drinkable now, but it will age wonderfully. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSMarjorie is part of the Cristom heritage, with the original planting dating back to 1982, first planted on its own roots and eventually replanted vine by vine. The 2023 is made with 45% whole cluster. It’s a small block, so they’re careful with it. This vintage was made after half of the block was removed. There is an umami character to the Majorie Pinot Noir aromatics, a depth showing salty brine. It always has fleshy red fruits, blood orange, and soaring acids accenting mint leaves and herbs. It’s spicy and salty through the finishDecanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard is youthfully understated and coy, blending dusty floral tones with dried strawberries and nuances of autumnal spice. Harmonious and pure in style, it offers vivid raspberry fruit elevated by a hint of sour citrus as a collection of fine-grained tannins adds cheek-puckering tension through the close. Spicy and exceptionally long, the 2023 finishes structured with a tart blackberry twang. Patience is required.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard was fermented with 45% whole clusters and matured for 18 months in 31% new French oak. It has layered, savory scents of mushrooms, flint and pipe tobacco over a core of red cherry, blackberry and orange peel. The medium-bodied palate pairs earth-laced flavors with pleasantly rustic, chalky tannins. It’s balanced by bright acidity and has a long, layered finish. 636 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWell-framed and tightly focused, with raspberry and red currant flavors that take on forest floor and black tea as this gathers tension toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2034. 636 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This stellar version offers a lovely sense of perfume, with blood orange zest and potpourri hints leading off. They’re followed by a pure, racy core of morello cherry and raspberry reduction flavors that course through the sleek, shimmering finish. Everything is girded by terrific, almost crunchy succulence, resulting in pomegranate and damson plum echoes at the end. Best from 2027 through 2037. 1,023 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2023 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvée Natalie is gorgeous. Orange peel, sage, dried herbs and delicate earthy undertones play off a core of dark blue/purplish fruit. Blood orange and pomegranate accents lend brightness as the 2023 start to open in the glass. This mid-weight, beautifully delineated Pinot hits all the right notes. As always, the Silver Belt is a bit more savory in style than the Laguna Ridge.Vinous Media | 96 VMComplex and classic flavors of tea, spices and cherries light up this medium-bodied wine. It offers great balance, with a tangy bite in the texture and moderate tannins lifting sour cherry, cranberry, clove, black tea and forest floor nuances. Fresh on the palate and lingering in the finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2023 Pinot Noir Cuvée Natalie Silver Belt Vineyard has alluring aromas of wild cherry, cranberry, Earl Grey tea leaves, mossy bark and quinine. The medium-bodied palate pairs concentrated, red fruit flavors with well-integrated new oak spice. It’s structured by velvety tannins and bright acidity and has a long, layered finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPouring a youthful red color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Silver Belt Vineyard Cuvee Natalie is layered on the nose with aromas of clove, iron, and cherries. It’s sanguine and iron-rich on the palate, with medium to full-bodied richness and a long, warming finish. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JD

Refined and succulent, showing peaches and dark strawberries on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a beautiful, racy and very long finish. Goes on for minutes. Classy Clos Vougeot. Such harmony. Limited availability, but find it. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSA dense, concentrated red, dripping with black currant, blackberry and blueberry fruit. Graphite, wild herb and spice notes add detail, while vibrant acidity drives the long aftertaste. This is harmonious, with plenty of youthful exuberance and terrific length. Best from 2029 through 2048. 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSA slightly fresher mix is comprised by notes of red and dark raspberry and more prominent earth nuances where a touch of old leather character lurks in the background. The super-sleek and highly energetic flavors are acceptably dense while delivering fine length on the balanced finale where the hallmark austere is present. This is a relatively refined Clos de Vougeot.Burghound | 91-93 BH

The lightly chewy tannins are caressing in this wine and give a cement-like character. Medium-bodied with flavors of chocolate, spices and stones. Delicious and crunchy. A tiny amount of sulfur at bottling. Drink now.James Suckling | 95 JS

Laurent Lignier has crafted a delicious wine from his holdings in Clos de la Roche, with dark plummy fruit and notes of ground coffee, earth and spice. The texture is serious, dense with tannin and extract, with enough acidity to draw the flavours out on the palate. Yields were tiny – just five barrels instead of the customary 15-20. This wine will begin to open in three to five years and will drink well for decades after that.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECLaurent has not made the special cuvée in 2024. Here there are 5 barrels from 0.90ha, two thirds Monts Luisants, one third Fremières. A fine mid crimson with a slightly weaker rim. The nose is very high class though, with just a little savoury edge to the mineral red fruit, good tension at the finish, maybe a little blueberry, classic Clos de la Roche with quite some staying power. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2025.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2024 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet that is easily the best that Laurent Lignier conjured this vintage: wonderful redcurrant and raspberry scents, freshly picked roses and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with finely honed tannins, a silver thread of acidity and silky texture that instantly seduces. There is just a tingle of white pepper on the finish that completes a lovely Clos de la Roche. Divine.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMModerate wood influence sets off overtly floral-suffused aromas of wild red berries, spice and a suggestion of wet stone. The succulent, round and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension that adds to the appeal of the powerful, impressively long and well-balanced finale. This is though compact and very firmly structured so at least mid-term patience is recommended.Burghound | 91-94 BH

A new wine in this range, the 2024 Pinot Noir Pacific Rock emerges from McDougall, a well-known site in Fort Ross-Seaview. Bold and explosive, the 2024 possesses tremendous textural depth and intensity. Dark-toned fruit, new leather, cedar, cloves, menthol and licorice fill out the layers. This imposing, broad-scaled Pinot has a lot to offer. There’s a bit of toughness in the tannin that needs to be addressed, but this is nevertheless a very fine debut. I expect the Pacific Rock will continue to improve now that the vineyard is being transitioned to organic farming, a process that takes 7-10 years to show full results.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2024 Pinot Noir Sea Field is powerful and tightly wound. Dark-toned fruit, leather, cedar, spice, incense and dried rose petal infuse the 2024 with tons of complexity. This potent, deep Pinot Noir packs a tremendous punch. There’s a lot of wine here, but this needs time to soften and for the mid-palate to emerge. There’s a striking, crystalline purity here.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Spellbinding aromas of rose petals, strawberries, citrus and bark, with hints of lemongrass. Medium-bodied, tight and structured, this offers a captivating combination of linear intensity and calmness, so classy and sophisticated. A continued benchmark for American pinot noir. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2024 Pinot Noir Royal St. Robert is fabulous. Deeply pitched spice notes, blood orange, new leather, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco meld into a core of sweet red cherry fruit, mint, spice and cedar. This is one of the finest vintages of the Royal St. Robert I have ever tasted, going all the way back to Raen’s early days.Vinous Media | 94 VM

A crunchy and gorgeous young pinot with sliced strawberry, stone, lemon zest and flint aromas that follow through to a medium body, creamy tannins and a fresh finish. Wonderful. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS