Pinot Noir

wines

It has been some years since the last time I cracked a bottle and at 22 years of age, it would be fair to say that this has reached its apogee with a really lovely and fully mature nose redolent of fully mature secondary aromas that do not yet evidence any notes of sous-bois. There is excellent richness to the delicious, sappy and still solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess excellent depth and fine length. This is not an especially refined effort but one that is most satisfying and while there is no further upside development to be had, neither is there any rush to drink up. In a word, lovely.Burghound | 91 BHA firm wine that offers generous, clear black cherry, raspberry and spice aromas and flavors. Solid, with pure, focused flavors balanced by enough acidity and tannin. Drinkable now to 1998. 375 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2005 Mugnier Chambolle, like so many of the best village wines in this vintage, is absolutely stunning. The nose is deep, pure and ostentatious, as it offers up notes of red cherries, plums, chocolate, a bit of citrus, and a fine base of Chambolle white soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and beautifully focused, with a sappy core of fruit, tangy acids, moderate, supple tannins, and great shape on the long, beautiful finish. A great village wine in the making (Drink between 2012 - 2030)John Gilman | 91 JGPure mid red, starting to lighten up a little bit. Clean fresh pinot in a sunny style, but definitely suggesting that this might be ready to take a look at. An agreeable mid palate sweetness, still a fresh little-red-fruit style, with minimal tannins behind. Tasted May 2019.Jasper Morris | 91 JMModerately saturated red-ruby. Musky ripe raspberry, minerals and flowers on the slightly medicinal nose. Sweet and fat, with noteworthy complexity and volume to its berry and mocha flavors. Finishes long and spicy, with very ripe, suave tannins for village wine.Vinous Media | 90 VMAn elegant, ripe and seductive nose of red, blue and violet aromas that are pure and very fresh lead to refined, rich and again, ultra pure flavors that are delicious, vibrant and offer excellent volume at this level. A terrific villages of 1er quality and worth a close look.Burghound | 90 BH

Much better and more complete wood integration allows the beautifully spicy and warm-earth nuanced black fruit nose to complement perfectly the rich, full and well-muscled flavors that border on the robust on the concentrated, intense and palate drenching flavors. This is not a wine of great finesse but there is good balance and excellent length here.Burghound | 90-92 BH

As it usually does, this brings another dimension of complexity with notably ripe yet elegant, even airy red berry fruit aromas, earth, underbrush, spice hints and a touch of jerky, all of which are picked up by the layered, seductive, rich, and full-bodied flavors that are blessed with ample dry extract on the palate staining, velvety and impressively long finish.Burghound | 93 BHBright medium red. Strawberry, raspberry, game and a hint of rust on the nose. The silkiest and most opulent yet of these 2007s, with complex flavors of red berries, chocolate, animal fur and mineral dust framed by harmonious acidity. Offers lovely sweetness in the middle, but really excites the palate on the classically dry finish.Vinous Media | 93 VMLightly-cooked cherry and red currant, mingle on the nose of Claude Dugat’s 2007 Charmes Chambertin, then re-emerge on an infectiously juicy, silken, subtly sweet palate. When tasted immediately after his 2008s, this offers both striking and welcome contrast due to its generosity of fruit, textural polish, and spiciness. Faint hints of game add complexity and a slightly drying hint of tannin diminishes the otherwise impressively persistent finish slightly. Still, this ought to perform impressively for at least the next 5-7 years, and quite possibly beyond that, though I would want to monitor it in a few years’ time to properly assess that possibility.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

Surpassing the 2007, Anne Gros’s 2008 Richebourg Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with scents of cassis, cherries, dried flowers, grilled meats and spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and nicely concentrated, with melting tannins, racy acids that are elegantly cloaked in succulent fruit and a long, penetrating finish. It makes for dramatic, head-turning drinking today, so there seems little reason to wait.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Richebourg- Domaine A-F. Gros) The 2008 Richebourg from A-F. Gros is fairly oaky, but with its wood much better integrated into the main body of the wine on both the nose and palate and posing no threat to the ultimate balance of the wine. The classy nose jumps from the glass in a blend of plums, black cherries, cocoa powder, orange zest, woodsmoke and spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely transparent, with a fine core of fruit, ripe tannins and fine length and grip on the youthful finish. There is plenty of wood in this wine, but it is seamlessly integrated already and does not detract at all from the overall pleasure that the wine delivers. A very good example. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 92+ JG(Domaine Anne-Françoise Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Red) Very generous wood fights somewhat at present with the cool, spicy and highly complex nose of red currant, plum and violet aromas that is very much in keeping with the equally spicy rich, full-bodied and tautly muscled flavors that display ample minerality on the balanced, long and linear finish. This is a very serious effort with fine but dense tannins that will require 15 to 20 years for them to fully resolve so this isn’t a precocious Riche. (Drink starting 2023)Burghound | 91-94 BH

A notably floral, spicy and very cool nose is trimmed in noticeable but reasonable wood and leads to very rich, round and velvety big-bodied and powerful flavors that culminate in a moderately oaked but strikingly long finish. Again, the oak is not subtle on the palate but there appears to be more than enough concentration to handle it.Burghound | 91-94 BH

There is by contrast super richness and a lovely minerality to the vibrant and tension-filled medium-bodied flavors that enjoy very ripe tannins that add to the moderate sense of austerity on the impressive long finish. In contrast to the Griotte this is not likely to be nearly as accessible young.Burghound | 91-94 BH

(one-third whole clusters): Good deep ruby-red. Smoky aromas of dark cherry, black raspberry and spices. Broad and fine-grained but tightly wound today, with serious but suave tannins currently dominating the wine’s fruit. This will need at least a few years of bottle aging upon release.Vinous Media | 90+ VMSoft floral hints add a touch of elegance to the pretty red currant, plum and earth aromas. There is once again a really lovely sense of underlying energy to the lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess admirable purity of expression, all wrapped in a mouth coating, linear and highly persistent finish. There is some youthful austerity and a hint of dryness present but the harmony is such that this should come together in time.Burghound | 90-92 BHThe 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, which comes from the domaine’s two parcels that total just over one hectarewas raised in 25% new oak. It includes one-third whole-cluster fruit and during elevage this cru tended to be reduced and therefore underwent more remontage than usual. The nose is difficult to discern at the moment and I feel that at this juncture it needs to divine more focus. The palate is better with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. The finish is masculine, foursquare but well-delineated, swerving towards an unexpected ferrous finish. This will need 4-5 years in bottle and should delight with bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

Bright red. Sappy black raspberry on the very ripe but energetic nose. A juicy, nicely balanced midweight with excellent dark fruit intensity and persistence. Finishes with a note of torrefaction.Vinous Media | 90 VMA cool and pure nose of red currant, earth and a hint of spice introduces detailed, energetic and delicious middle weight flavors that display excellent depth and length in the context of the appellation. Lovely stuff.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Here the equally brooding nose is slightly more elegant with its cool and restrained nose of red currant, cassis, spice and earth scents that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. Like the Poisets this is notably rich with its relatively large-scaled flavors that also enjoy good density thanks to the abundant dry extract that also coats the palate and pushes the firmer supporting tannins to the background. Lovely.Burghound | 90-92 BH(vinified with 40% whole clusters): Medium red. Fruit-driven aromas of red cherry and strawberry. The silkiest and thickest of these 2014s to this point but with plenty of energy and cut. Boasts a sexy stem component and finishes juicy and persistent, with plenty of ripe tannins. Charles Lachaux told me that he uses the whole-cluster fermentation to soften the structure of this wine and he predicts that it will make a nice drink in five years, earlier than past vintages.Vinous Media | 89-92 VM

Dark red with ruby tones. Deeply pitched aromas of currant, dark cherry, licorice and leather. Dense, sweet, slightly leathery wine with noteworthy depth of texture. Not showing the light mineral touch it displayed from barrel a year ago but this is quite ripe and broad--even a bit chocolatey--for the vintage. Finishes with slightly tough tannins.Vinous Media | 90 VMWhile not as pretty as the Chaumes this is notably complex with its subtly wooded nose of earth black currant, game, smoke and lovely floral hints. There is markedly better concentration to the delicious and suave middle weight flavors that possess excellent intensity and volume as well as impeccable balance. This isn’t as refined as the Chaumes but the additional concentration and complexity make this the more interesting wine.Burghound | 90-93 BH

A restrained, indeed almost mute nose only grudgingly offers up notes of various red berries along with hints of plum, lilac and spice. There is a beguiling mouth feel to the generous yet sleek middle weight flavors that are again shaped by refined tannins before culminating in a youthfully austere finish that is firm, balanced and solidly persistent. This is a first-rate Vosne villages and is also worth considering.Burghound | 90 BHThe 2014 la Colombière had also been racked three weeks before our tasting and this was a bit more reticent in personality after its recent racking. With a little coaxing, the nose eventually offers up quite a complex blend of red plums, raspberries, cocoa, a touch of nuttiness, a good base of soil, duck and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and adolescent, with a good sappy core, fine transparency, ripe, moderate tannins and very good length and grip on the finish. This will be very good. (Drink between 2020 - 2045)John Gilman | 90-91 JGThe 2014 Vosne Romanée les Colombières is blessed with lovely pure fruit on the nose, fuller than some premier crus Vosne-Romanées with impressive fruité. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry, nicely judged acidity and good mineralité. This is a stylish and suave les Colombières with a pleasing saline tang right on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

Bright medium red Compelling perfume of raspberry, flowers, game and leather, still with a touch of reduction Tactile and vibrant in the mouth, with complex flavors of red berries, flowers and flint accented by soil and light veggie nuances Not as thick as the young 2015 but a wonderfully expressive and complete village wine Finishes saline and sweet, with fine-grained tannins and superb length and soil character Frederic Mugnier noted that this wine can be kept for a long time but emphasized that it "doesn’t benefit as much from aging as the crus do"Vinous Media | 91 VM I love Monsieur Mugnier’s Chambolle villages and the 2014 is going to be excellent. The lovely nose wafts from the glass in a refined blend of red and black cherries, a touch of nutskin, lovely minerality, raw cocoa, violets, woodsmoke and just a hint of new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and very transparent, with a lovely core of fruit, moderate tannins and a long, focused and tangy finish. A lovely AC in the making. (Drink between 2021 - 2050)John Gilman | 91 JGThe 2014 Chambolle-Musigny Village has a very pleasant and pure bouquet with strawberry pastilles, touches of chalk and flint, a little pinched at first but soon opening with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy strawberry and tart cherry fruit, a touch of salinity and spice towards the cohesive finish. This is certainly approachable, although I would afford it a couple of years in bottle. Tasted November 2016.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Medium deep red, some green notes to the bouquet. Whole bunches. Develops more florally. There is real concentration here, an impressive intensity that will deliver something impressive in the long run, but only to those prepared to tolerate a measure of under-ripeness. DIAM 30 Tasted Sep 2017.Jasper Morris | 91 JM(100% vendange entier; 35% new oak): Good medium red. Subdued aromas and flavors of raspberry, black cherry, earth and smoky minerality accented by hints of pepper and herbs from the stems. Broad, ripe and smooth but quite dry. Displays very good spicy energy, length and lift but the substantial dusty tannins leave the finish a bit clenched today. This slightly edgy wine will need patience.Vinous Media | 90+ VMAn overtly floral-inflected nose displays a lovely, fresh and again cool array of spice, red pinot fruit and a hint of wet stone. The stony character can also be found in abundance on the highly energetic, chiseled and saline yet attractively rich medium-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding length on the dusty and mildly austere but very well-balanced finale. This is terrific but note well that patience will be required.Burghound | 90-93 BH

A juicy, vibrant style, this boasts currant, wild cherry and spice flavors. Linear and silky, with a chewy finish. Well-proportioned, but needs time to integrate. Best from 2019 through 2032. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThe 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru les Charmoix offers a pleasant raspberry coulis and strawberry nose, with just a touch of marmalade in the background lending some exoticism. The palate is smooth and silky, supple, almost nubile in the mouth with rounded tannin, good density though just needing a little more nervosité to come through towards the finish, though that seems to develop in the glass. Good potential here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

Lean and taut, with cherry and spice flavors riding a beam of acidity. The tannins are gentle yet supportive. Finishes with a chalky feel. Shows fine purity and intensity, yet will require some time to reveal all its facets. Best from 2020 through 2035. 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSFull red. Aromas of dark cherry, smoky minerals and sexy soil tones. Very sweet and broad on entry, then suave and nicely delineated in the mid-palate, displaying complex saline soil tones and cherry and dark berry fruit flavors. This savory Volnay finishes with building toothcoating tannins and terrific chocolatey length. Needs time, but this wine strikes me as more harmonious than the excellent 2013 version was at the same stage.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a more pointed and angular nose at the moment when compared with the Taillepieds. It is probably the most primal of the Volnay, black cherry and cassis fruit suffused with tangible mineralité, but it needs to be knitted together during the remainder of its élevage. The palate is very well balanced, the wood component again needing time to enmesh, but there is good substance here -- even if I prefer the elegance of the Caillerets on the finish (at the moment).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPOnce again there is a deft touch of wood apparent on the restrained, cool and pretty array of red berry, earth and softly spice-inflected nose. The wonderfully refined, layered and sleek middle weight flavors possess a polished mouth feel while delivering outstanding length on the moderately austere and dusty finale. Like the Taillepieds this is quite firm and will need at least 6 to 8 years of cellaring before it will be approachable. Patience required.Burghound | 91-93 BH

(Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also aromatically inhibited with its reluctant nose of plum liqueur, leather, humus and evident floral wisps. Here too there is excellent volume and intensity to the muscular and powerful flavors that are shaped by firm tannins that leave no doubt that this is built-to-age and a wine that’s going to need extended patience. I would add that in the context of the 2017 vintage, this is a big wine. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru offers more red fruit than the Bonnes-Mares, although at the moment this does not quite deliver the same nuance and comeliness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, quite linear and strict (especially for this vineyard), but with a welcome pinch of white pepper and sage towards the persistent finish. Afford it several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Light in colour, with a certain attractive evolution in the bouquet, very sensual, lifted raspberry and alpine strawberry. This is a Vosne-Romanée which is all about the delicacy, perfumed and succulent up front, lighter behind. Perhaps just a little soft at the finish but with a heavenly fruit quality. Just the style that Charles Lachaux is trying to achieve. Tasted: October 2020.Jasper Morris | 91 JMAromatically the nose possesses a similar fruit profile but it’s notably spicier. There is also a bit more concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a more refined mouthfeel before terminating in a saline and lingering finish. The refinement is mostly due to the dense but fine tannins and this should age well for its level.Burghound | 89-91 BH

From Lavières and Bas de Combe plus two vineyards nearer to Nuits. Again there is no especial depth of colour, yet with this sublime fragrance. The whole bunches are a bit firmer but the fragrance comes behind. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 90 JMThe 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Village is a blend of several vineyards that offer homogeneous ripeness but on different soils. It has quite an earthy, sous-bois tinged bouquet that is very well defined, the 60% whole bunches nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a tart opening, and the 10% new oak lends discreet lift toward a persistent finish spiced with a dash of black pepper. Excellent.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMAn exuberantly expressive nose jumps from the glass to reveal a lovely array of earth, red currant, spice and a whiff of lavender. There is once again an appealing sense of energy to the lighter weight flavors that deliver solid punch and persistence on the balanced finish. This is a relatively elegant Nuits villages.Burghound | 88-90 BH

The 2017 Vosne V.V. shares the same beautiful fruit tones with the Chambolle AC in this vintage, but is perhaps even a hair more transparent in its expression of its underlying terroir. The nose wafts from the glass in a complex blend of raspberries, red and black plums, cocoa powder, duck, lovely soil tones, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very soil-driven, with a sappy core, excellent focus and grip, suave tannins, vibrant acids and a very long, elegant and precise finish. This is a gorgeous village wine in the making! (Drink between 2022 - 2055)John Gilman | 91+ JGThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes, matured in 50% new oak with 25% whole bunches, has an aromatic, very floral bouquet, scents of pressed violets intermingling with the black plum and bilberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, finely judged acidity and good balance and matière toward the almost citrus-like finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMBursting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, exotic spices and smoked duck, the 2017 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is the broadest and most satiny of Tremblay’s village wines, with a medium to full-bodied, fleshy profile that was still digesting some structuring tannin when I tasted it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPA markedly spicier and more deeply pitched nose grudgingly reveals notes of dark cherry, plum, violet and sandalwood. The velvety, delicious and caressing medium-bodied flavors possess fine concentration for the vintage, all wrapped in a highly seductive, sappy and sneaky long finish. I like the balance and overall this is too a really quite good plus it’s very Vosne.Burghound | 89-91 BHThis shows the typical deepish red colour of Cécile’s 2017s. The wood shows a little on the nose, in its toasty style but here it is just an inflection, then a really pure fine concentrated fruit on the palate, more red than black, fills out the mid palate. Tasted: November 2018.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JM

This is perhaps the spiciest wine in the range with a lovely mix of anise, exotic tea and sandalwood on the deeply pitched dark berry fruit aromas that also evidence a hint of volatile acidity. The rich, full-bodied and mouthcoating big-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract before concluding in a grippy and mildly rustic finish that still manages to deliver very good length. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 90-93 BH

Graceful mid purple with a supple and elegant dark red fruit. A certain nobility to this, and a little deeper riper and darker fruit than the village blend. Very attractive fruit including some blackberry. Maybe too dark for some? Tasted Nov 2020.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMA less expressive, even somewhat brooding nose, grudgingly reflects notes of poached plum, black raspberry and spice nuances. The finer and more mineral-driven middle weight flavors possess equally good verve along with fine depth and persistence on the pit fruit-inflected finish. This is lovely and notably less Gevrey in character; indeed its proximity to Morey is evident.Burghound | 90-92 BHMingling aromas of cherries, berries, peonies and orange rind, the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux is medium-bodied, lively and elegant. As usual, it’s a touch less rich and muscular than its Vieilles Vignes counterpart from the other side of the appellation.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

Unusually supple and charming for a young wine from this site, the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots Rouge reveals notes of plums, rose petals, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, giving and open-knit palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA restrained and slightly somber nose features notes of pepper, cherry, raspberry and more prominent earth influence. The delicious medium weight flavors possess a fleshy, plump and round mouthfeel while exhibiting fine depth and persistence on the mildly rustic finish. While this well-made effort could also be enjoyed young, a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.Burghound | 90 BH

Although this is slightly closed on the initial attack, there is a crisply refreshing high-toned fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate), with notes of peony and spice. The texture is fresh, tannic and grippy, and the compact, expressive fruit has an admirably chiselled character. The wine is from 75-year-old vines planted at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux — the ’baby Richebourg’ according to Anne Gros. This wine will drink well from three to five years after the vintage.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, which Paul Gros said the family considers a Premier Cru close to Cros Parantoux and Richebourg, is based on poor shallow limestone soils. The nose takes time to open and evolves lovely raspberry and wild strawberry scents laced with oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with good substance on the entry. This is more structured than you might presuppose. It has a silver bead of acidity, and the finish feels pixelated for a Village Cru. Bon vin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA solid core of ruby purple. What a beautiful nose! Global warming says a friendly hello to cooler sites such as Les Barreaux. More oak this year because of the shortage of one year old barrels, and that shows a touch at the back at the moment but will all integrate. Very lively and extremely fine, with a greater depth of fruit than the Chambolle. The pinot fin plant selection is showing its class here. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMIn contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is firmly reduced and reveals nothing. More interesting are the fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that already possess solid depth and very fine length on the balanced if firmly structured finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BH