Port & Sauternes

wines

The 1943 Doisy-Daëne is a vintage that I drank with the late Denis Dubourdieu a decade ago. Once again, this is very precise on the nose with orange peel, chlorophyll and a touch of caramelised pear. The palate is well balanced with orange rind and marmalade, a little Riesling-like, Germanic, like a mature Nahe rather than Mosel. A little dryness on the finish but for a wartime vintage, a marvel. Tasted at the vertical at Doisy-Daëne.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Inky purple in color, this youngest Taylor vintage Port boasts a floral, wonderfully open and appealing bouquet, backed by layers of rich fruit. What makes this wine extra special is the seductive texture—somewhere between creamy and syrupy—and ample length.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2003 vintage surrounds Taylor’s classically hard-core iron grip with fruit that’s generous, succulent and rich. The aromas of violets and spice seem to rise out of a blast of black rock, the muscular tannin inseparable from the fresh fruit. Though the ripeness and richness of the vintage tends to blur many of the distinctions among the best Ports, the relatively dry style of Taylor stands out, the extreme power of its structure bringing to mind a wrought iron fence stretching off into the distance. Winemaker David Guimaraens describes 2003 as a concentrating year, and points to 1966 as a parallel to the vintage. Likely the longest lived of the ’03s, this should be drinking best from 2033 through 2055, then mature into a firm old age for decades after.Wine & Spirits | 96 W&SThe 2003 Taylor’s has a lovely ripe, primal bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, vanilla and marmalade that shows slightly better delineation than the Fonseca. The palate is medium-bodied with very composed, refined tannins that belie the heat of that summer. There is wonderful focus here and fine tension, the finish offering precise notes of black cherries, mulberry, cloves and white pepper. This is one of the finest Ports of a precocious vintage. Tasted May 2013.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 95 RP-NMLovely aromas of currants, blackberries and licorice. Full-bodied, with medium sweetness and layers of ripe, round, velvety tannins. Flavorful finish. More round and refined than from barrel. Best after 2014.Wine Spectator | 94 WSBright, saturated ruby. Vibrant, pure aromas of blackberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Juicy, minerally, precise and penetrating, but quite primary and unevolved today. Shows strong but integrated acidity and a tight kernel of fruit. Best today on the slow-building, rising, aristocratic finish. But today the wine’s tannins are less obvious than its acids. This seems distinctly less ripe and chewy than the great 2000 Taylor’s but it’s still extremely unevolved. Latour-like in its structure and reserve.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

The 2023 Suduiraut is a model of modern Sauternes. Orange peel, burnt sugar, crème-brûlée, tangerine peel, and wild flowers inform a Sauternes of total finesse and silkiness. Yields were a measly 12 hectoliters per hectare. The 150 grams of residual sugar are not especially evident. Everything about the 2023 is perfectly judged. It can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring or cellared for decades. The 2023 is a timeless wine that is among the most notable successes of the year.Vinous Media | 100 VMWith 150 grams per liter of residual sugar, the 2023 Suduiraut is exquisite, unfurling from the glass with aromas of pineapple, exotic fruits, spices, honey, ripe orchard fruits and a touch of menthol. Medium- to full-bodied, concentrated and deep, it is layered and finely textured, built around a powerful yet perfectly controlled core of fruit, concluding with a long, fresh and perfumed finish. Entirely crafted from Sémillon, it registers a pH of 3.8.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPA top-notch Sauternes this vintage, with both exuberance and finesse in vivid - and clean - aromas and flavours of pear, apricot, pineapple, mango, mandarin peel and ginger, cinnamon and bergamot tea. The palate combines opulence with the fine acidity of the 2023 vintage, as the estate handled the late summer heat wave and went through the vineyard three times, to be sure to get the best botrytis. Long finish, and potential for higher score once bottled. Ageing in 50% new oak for about 18 months. 150 grams of residual sugar.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe purity and focus is so impressive, with a linear nature and precision that goes on and on. Full-bodied and very sweet, with layers of fruit and such length. A solid and muscular Sauternes with a classic structure. 100% semillon. 150 g/L residual sugar. Drinkable now, but even better in seven or eight years.James Suckling | 97 JSThis authoritative Sauternes starts off with an unctuous yet fresh feel. There’s admirable density to its notes of ginger, warmed peach, mirabelle plum, persimmon and green plum, with live-wire threads of bitter orange and almond that extend and support everything, plus tensile strength through the finish. A no-brainer classic. Drink now through 2055. 4,979 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSKiller juice, the 2023 Château Suduiraut has a drop-dead gorgeous nose of honeyed orange, white flowers, warm croissant, and spice. This carries to a full-bodied Sauternes with a round, layered mouthfeel, terrific sweetness of fruit, and bright acidity.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-99 JD2023 Suduiraut has a crunchy, fine and fruity nose with some acidity and freshness. The taste is crunchy and fresh with good acidity and a fresh and clear aftertaste, This is one of the better Sauternes in 2023 whereas many other producers lack a bit of acidity and freshness present here.The Wine Independent | 92-93 TWI