Refreshing Whites

wines

The white 2021 Cargol Treu Vi has notes of pollen and yellow fruit with some browning apples. It has contained ripeness and 12.4% alcohol with a very low pH and high-ish acidity but comes through as more evolved and somewhat riper than the phenomenal Principia Mathematica form this same vintage. It has pungent flavors and a medium-bodied palate, with some spice from aging in 300-liter barrels for 10 to 11 months. 2,100 bottles were filled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Cut grass, dark green herbs and yellow apple aromas show on the nose of this bottling. It’s very lean on the palate with a zippy, energetic acidity that cuts right through the cement, crushed stone and serrano flavors, engaging the palate on all sides.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Au Naturel is laced with hints of pear, mint, chamomile, spice and apricot. Racy and textured in feel, the Au Naturel has plenty of richness to play off the natural vivacity of the year.Antonio Galloni | 92 AGAll varietal, the 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Au Naturel offers a touch more oomph in its white peach, melon, white flowers, and honeysuckle-like aromas and flavors. It’s rich, medium-bodied, balanced, and certainly an outstanding expression of Sauvignon Blanc.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

The 2021 vintage of Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc includes 9% Semillon in a blend that is commonly found in Margaret River. Vibrant and piercing aromas are on display with impressive complexity including passionfruit, freshly cut grass, lanolin and hay. Exceptional purity follows on a light weight palate with juicy acidity providing energy and tropical fruit flavour impact. The finish is zesty and refreshing with impressive focus from start to finish.Vinous Media | 92 VM

I loved the 2021 Lirac Blanc, one of those whites that truly over-delivers. Beautiful notes of pear, white flowers, citrus, and some salty, mineral-like nuances define this beauty, and it’s medium-bodied, with terrific balance, integrated acidity, and a great, great finish. Bravo. Drink this over the coming 2-4 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThere’s a touch of oak on the nose and palate that helps to frame the tangy citrus notes, and lends a touch of spice, but it’s far from overwhelming. Full-bodied, classically Lirac in its breadth on the palate. Ends on a nip of grapefruit bitterness. Good acidity. Also contains Marsanne, Viognier and Piquepoul.Decanter | 92 DECBrimming with stone-fruit aromas with a touch of mango, this is a rich but very clean and crisp dry white from the Southern Rhone. Good concentration and a touch of positive tannin help it carry the generous body and 14.5% alcohol. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

Bright and inviting, the 2021 Chardonnay Drouhin Oregon Roserock has high-toned aromatics including loads of lime zest, honeyed apple, and a lifted note of gunflint that is well-managed. Medium-bodied and energetic, with balanced ripeness as well as loads of fresh citrus and a long finish, it has more reductive and bright-toned energy that lasts for ages through the finish. Drink 2023-2030.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDNotes of dried apples, glazed lemons, orange curd, roasted almonds and crushed stones. Hints of dried lemon peel, too. Full-bodied and broad yet it is delicate with impressive fresh acidity. Incredible minerality here with a touch of zestiness at the end. Lingering finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSFrom the Eola-Amity Hills, fast becoming Oregon’s best Chardonnay sub-appellation, given its windy conditions and volcanic soils. The Roserock shows flinty aromatics and laser-focused brightness with hints of cut early-season pears, white flowers and smoky minerality. The palate is balanced, bright and savoury, with minerality written all over it. Notes of crushed granite and green peppercorn complement grilled lemon peel, briny seaspray and smoky flint.Decanter | 93 DECDriven by electrifying acidity and a texture as crisp as a new dollar bill, this is a wine for fans of the lean, but hardly mean, style of Chardonnay. Pineapple and chamomile aromas are complemented by bits of fresh-cut grass and thyme. Flavors of chilled orange segments, lemon verbena and toasted filberts go on forever. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEBrisk and fresh, with pear and grapefruit flavors accented by spice and white blossom aromatics as this glides on the steely finish. Drink now. 2,405 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2021 vintage of Cour-Cheverny from François Cazin is an outstanding young wine, coming in at a classic thirteen percent octane in this vintage. This is in notable contrast to the 2020 version, where that hot summer pushed the wine’s ripeness all the way up to 14.5 percent alcohol. The 2021 offers up a bright, complex and utterly classical bouquet of fresh lime, quince, beeswax, orange peel, a lovely foundation of chalky soil tones and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, focused and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of pure fruit, excellent mineral undertow and cut, zesty acids and impeccable balance on the long, complex and vibrant finish. It is so refreshing to taste an utterly classical rendition from these great old vines, as the hot summers of the global warming era have made these old school version fewer and farther between! Great juice. (Drink between 2024 - 2045)John Gilman | 94 JG

Firm reduction and a whiff of oak dominate the nose at present. Much more interesting are the beautifully textured, racy and detailed medium weight flavors that also possess a highly sophisticated mouthfeel while exhibiting stunningly good length on the bitter zest-inflected finish that goes on and on. This is terrific and easily delivers grand cru quality.Burghound | 94-96 BHMid lemon colour. As always, the bouquet rises above the others. I feel the need to keep on sniffing this! Brings a smile to the face. The 2021 Domaine Leflaive Pucelles offers such a complex mix of fruits, fresh apricot along with a mix of quality citrus, good density but above all a stylishness that expresses itself in a hugely long finish. Perfect balance with a lifted fresh elegance at the finish. This may yet earn a fifth star later in life. Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a crisp, petrichor and green apple-scented bouquet, tight at first but opening up nicely with aeration. The palate is fresh and crisp with a subtle reduction at play, fine depth, lightly spiced with stem ginger and a dab of lemongrass towards the finish. This should drink nicely over the next decade.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Some buttery notes emerge under the delicate lemony characters, giving depth and seamless balance to the zingy acidity. It should develop additional complexity with more time in bottle. Montée de Bouffant is a parcel on steep slopes at 240m above the village of Chavignol. The grapes are harvested by machine and fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel and then aged for six months. The first record of the 35-hectare domaine is from 1510 and Laurent Reverdy, who took over from his father Alain in 2000, is the 14th generation.Decanter | 93 DEC

Droin owns 10ha of AP Chablis. Much more interest here with a deeper hue in the glass and much more interest on the nose. Some greengage on the palate, together with a hint of pear and white peach. Pretty much a benchmark example of what village Chablis should be. Concentration and a lengthy mineral character to finish.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Chablis Village has a fresh nose with Granny Smith apples and a touch of fresh pear. With good balance and acidity, the palate is quite saline in the mouth with veins of orchard fruit, hints of wild peach and citrus peel, delicate and refined on the finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VMThis is aromatically similar to the Petit Chablis though with more citrus elements in evidence. There is again good richness to the succulent and rounded medium-weight flavors that also exude a refreshing salinity on the clean, moderately dry and sneaky long finish that is slightly firmer.Burghound | 88-91 BH

Striking nose of rosehip and lime zest with delicate wild flower and herb aromas. Simultaneously structured and elegant, this dry riesling has remarkable concentration for just 11.5% alcohol. Long, silky, mineral finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2021 Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett trocken is clear, refined and elegant on the beautifully aromatic nose. Vinified in small and up to 60-hectoliter oak casks, this is a subtle, frisky but seriously calcareous Riesling with and intense and well-structured fruit texture and vivacious but ripe acidity that is interwoven with fine phenolic grip and stimulating, sustainable salinity. A gorgeous, still young Riesling bottled with 11.2% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

This estate makes a bevy of terrific dry whites in addition to an incredible Sauternes. Starting with the 2021 Lions De Suduiraut Blanc Sec, which is a blend of 52% Semillon and 48% Sauvignon Blanc, it offers subtle grapefruit and citrus notes, a kiss of minerality, and a refreshing, vibrant, wonderfully balanced style on the palate. It’s a seriously good bottle of wine to drink in its youth.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2021 Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec is gorgeous. Rich, creamy and expressive, the 2021 is exquisite in its balance of textural richness and freshness. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint, lemon oil and chamomile envelop the palate, while bright floral accents perk up the finish. Lions is the new name for the Blanc Sec, which is the same wine as before.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGA tangy white with sliced grapefruit, apple and celery character. Medium body. Fresh finish. White pepper. Dry and chalky.James Suckling | 91 JS

Vibrant and effusive, with energetic lime sherbet, lemon oil, citron and tangerine notes at the core. Shows aromatic details of lemon verbena, lemongrass and lemon basil, with a touch of green tea and white pepper on the fresh, juicy frame. Drink now. 3,981 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSSourced entirely from Charles Ranch and pouring a pale straw color, the 2021 Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview is fresh and lifted with aromas of salted lime, sea spray, agave, and green pineapple. On the palate. this medium-bodied white is spritely with notes of crunchy fresh fruit and has a silky soft, stony texture to round out its linear drive. It’s fresh with vibrant energy and ripe fruit, white peach, and fresh flowers. Drink it over the next 6-8 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThis bracing, tangy, spicy wine boasts aromas of butter and toast, flavors of poached pears, vanilla and wood char, while a tingly, slightly gripping texture adds a crisp finish. Made from cool, coastal vineyards, it needs time to mellow in mouthfeel and gain more subtlety. Best from 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2021 Chardonnay Zotovich Vineyard is a bright and focused from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lime, salt and white pepper are all beautifully delineated in this vibrant, intensely saline Chardonnay. All the elements are so nicely put together. This is another wonderfully translucent wine in the range.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis bottling sports a very pithy, citrus-rind-driven nose, with wet rock and tight apple flesh aromas also apparent. The palate is loaded with a rocky mineralitty, but also packed with citrus spray, Asian pear and mandarin flesh flavors.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WESamsara’s 2017 Zotovich Chardonnay is an excellent rendition of this top quality site. From the first vintage that Samsara produces white wines, it was fermented in all neutral oak and four barrels were produced. The nose is equal parts toasty, honeyed and saline, with aromas of cracker, coconut and sea spray. The palate is chiseled and linear, combining green apple, pineapple rind and salted caramel flavours. Chardonnay from this site seems to consistently marry weight and power with lift and focus, as is the case here.Decanter | 92 DEC

This harmonious white offers bright, buoyant acidity and fresh character to the aromas and flavors of orchard blossoms, nectarine and yellow apple. Yet this also has a light, pleasing plumpness, plus rich hints of mango puree, slivered almond and vanilla-infused pastry cream. Medium-bodied and creamy, with a lingering finish of spices and stone. Drink now through 2031. 800 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBig and waxy chardonnay with ripe orchard and tropical fruit, notes of walnuts, pie crust and cream. Full-bodied, dense and oily with a mellow and ripe character framed by spicy and nutty nuances. Long finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA total seductress, the 2021 Chardonnay Ciampagnis lifts from the glass with an intense mix of lemon custards, sweet mint and confectionary spice. Its creamy textures soothe as a pure mix of ripe citrus-tinged orchard fruits settles upon the palate. Here it’s the acidity that impresses most, finishing remarkably vibrant despite its intense fruit-forward personality while leaving stimulating hints of lime and saline minerals to linger. Vie di Romans captures an amazing amount of complexity within the Ciampagnis yet uses only stainless steel in the aging process.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Vieris opens slowly in the glass, holding back in its youthful state, with hints of lemon oil, rosemary and wet stone accentuated by sweet spice. This is seamlessly silky, almost oily in feel, with sapid yellow citrus and savory herbal tones enriched by vibrant acidity. It finishes potent and spicy, leaving the palate saturated in an intense staining of primary concentration. The potential here is off the charts, but today, the Vieris is one of the most backward wines out of the 2021 portfolio.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

The varietal white 2021 Garnacha Blanca, from one of their favorite vintages, was picked early to produce the fresh profile they like, with 12.9% alcohol, a pH of 3.15 and 6.55 grams of acidity. They used grapes from the village of Fitero to ferment the must in stainless with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured mostly in concrete, a 2,000-liter Stockinger foudre and five new 500-liter French oak barrels. It’s fresh, floral and elegant, with purity and balance, a spicy touch from the wood. It has a very tasty finish and even a salty twist, super fresh with lots of finesse. It has volume and freshness, the vibrancy from an early harvest and the contained ripeness and alcohol. This is the style they wanted for this wine and took the time to find it; it’s more Burgundian than Mediterranean, to me. It should age nicely in bottle. And a bargain. 19,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2022 Vino Bianco Leukò bursts from the glass with a wild aromatic display of ground ginger, incense, dried peaches and sour melon. It’s soft and enveloping with a pleasant inner sweetness up front and zesty acidity as floral-laced white pit fruits and candied citrus tones cascade throughout. The palate is left reeling, watering for more, as a perfumed floral air dissipates over tropical kiwi hints. This is Leukò on steroids. It’s a blend of 70% Greco Bianco and 30% Gaglioppo, vinified white.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2022 Pinot Blanc Réserve comes from the Brand Kirchberg (80%) and the granite soils of Niedermorschwihr, which adds texture and suppleness. The wine is rich and intense on the palate yet fresh, vital, well structured and persistently saline on the finish. This is a pretty complex Pinot Blanc from 50+-year-old vines. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2022 Pinot Blanc Réserve is a pure Pinot Blanc, made from one parcel in the Barnd Grand Cru and one in Niedermorschwihr, both on granite. They are harvested together, then co-pressed and co-fermented. Russet pear flesh and peel are evident on the nose, edged by slight mango notes. The palate is bright, fresh and beautifully intense, with pear peel and zestiness. This is a very fresh Pinot Blanc with much verve and direction. A lovely, zesty energy shines. (Bone-Dry)Vinous Media | 92 VM

Rich and savory in the glass, the 2022 Bramìto della Sala slowly opens to show hints of young peach and apricot, crushed rocks and hints of cardamon. This is silky yet lifted in feel with ripe white pit fruits complemented by hints of vanilla bean and lemon custard. The 2022 finishes with admirable length and potency, as a bump of residual acidity maintains a lovely freshness. Bramìto della Sala remains one of the best values in Italian Chardonnay.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis fresh white shows fine interplay between rich hints of creamed apple, persimmon, vanilla and biscuit, with notes of Meyer lemon peel and tangy salinity. Light- to medium-bodied and creamy on the palate, with a well-cut finish. Drink now through 2027. 10,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

They kept separate the Godello that was blended before, and they liked it so much that they decided to bottle it and release it as 2022 X Godello. It was produced with grapes from a one-hectare plot from their vineyard O Taboleiro, which was planted in 2008 on granite sandy soils that keep the acidity. It has good ripeness and development of aromas and flavors, 13% alcohol and very good freshness (pH 3.1). I was very pleasantly surprised. The wine is elegant, serious and balanced, with austerity in the palate, very precise and detailed. 2,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled unoaked in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2022 Saint-Véran La Grande Bruyère is aged in foudres installed at the Domaine in 2009 and comes from marn/Silesian soils that are apparently trickier to vinify. It has a complex bouquet, well-defined, with hints of camphor behind citrus fruit, marmalade and curry leaf. It’s mercurial and involving; these are absorbing aromatics. The palate is well balanced with tremendous weight, fine acidity, a slight reduction and traces of orange rind and white pepper toward the finish. Great length. This comes highly recommended.Vinous Media | 93 VM

This Vire Clesse from Roally showcases the pinnacle of Maconnais Chardonnay, hailing from one of the finest vintages in recent memory. On the nose, it offers an enticing bouquet of spring flowers intertwined with aromatic notes of lemon balm, white peach and verbena. On the palate, it is lively and fresh and the wine’s minerality shines through exhibiting the characteristic flinty undertone that is prized in the best examples from this appellation. This is the under $35 bottle of white Burgundy that Puligny Montrachet lovers serve at parties and pools. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 94 SP

There’s complexity and depth to this racy, seductive white. With time in glass, layers of white peach, verbena and white blossoms emerge, coursing alongside fresh thyme, oyster shell minerality and briny saltiness. Shows plenty of zip through the long and textured finish. Drink now through 2030. 667 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA well-rounded, precise and focused Sancerre with aromas of quince peel, leaves, stones and hints of guava. It’s medium- to full-bodied with bright acidity and a dense core of juicy fruit and spices. Mouthwatering finish with excellent persistence. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSThis Sancerre is a delight. The gold-hued wine has a rich, perfumed nose of peach blossom, baked apple and self-confidence. Honeysuckle and orange blossom support complex orchard fruit on the palate whose finish is satisfying and tart-leaning.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Restrained and with notable concentration, this is an intense premier cru with great potential. Notes of peach fruit cut with zesty lime citrus. Very fine. From 68-year-old vines on very dense, white clay soils which are like concrete when dry, heavy when wet.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2022 Chablis Butteaux Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes from vines around 70 years old, only slightly older than the regular cuvée, but on different soils (white clay rather than brown with high fossil content). It is usually bottled slightly later. The nose is a little more expressive with hints of red cherries and peach skin - very well defined. The palate is well-balanced with more harmony than the regular cuvée, a crisp line of acidity and touches of oyster shell on the saline finish. Great persistence here. Excellent.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMSmall millerand crop that ripened early. Pale in colour without too much nose. Nicely balanced on the palate though, a more tightly knit white fruit than the regular bottling, with a little lemon zest, and a balanced long finish. Picked at the right moment I suspect. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThis is similar to the regular cuvée except that it seems ever-so-slightly riper. By contrast, there is better concentration and power to the medium-bodied flavors and, somewhat unusually, the mouthfeel is finer as well, particularly on the more complex if also more austere finale. Lovely.Burghound | 90-93 BH

Cool, fresh and lively, yet the brisk acidity provides a great counterfoil for some succulent, juicy and ripe fruit. Clear Chablis origin, with the focus and intensity on the palate. This should have a long drinking window and is a very classy example, marrying the warmth of 2022 and the density of the premier cru.Decanter | 94 DEC