Refreshing Whites

wines

The 2021 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills is the first vintage of Chardonnay from Donnachadh. It was barrel fermented and matured for around 10 months. Its aromas combine bright herbal, green apple and pear tones with underlying savory hints. The light-bodied palate is bright and fresh, yet offers a touch of anchoring creaminess that draws out the finish. Proprietor Drew Duncan says that for this vintage, fruit came from the Donnachadh estate, although that may not be the case in the future as this new project really gets up and running.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis brand’s new appellation bottling satisfies in both Old and New World ways. Clean, chalky aromas of bright Meyer lemon flesh and pith meet with a briny note on the mineral-laden nose. The palate is wrapped in chiseled-stone tannins, loaded with acidity and yet generous on flavors of white melon, lychee, nectarine and honeysuckle.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Aromas that speak of freshness and maturity intermingle here, in a way that playfully calls those very categories into question. So much depth, vitality and finesse, the absence of obviously fruity aromas on the mid-palate not feeling like a lack. Then the finish pushes up face to face with the dazzling heart of the lemon. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSAn organic and biodynamic wine, the 2021 Manzoni Bianco Fontanasanta is partially aged in clay amphorae. The wine shows a brilliant appearance with creamy aromas of beeswax, dried apricot, poached pear and honey. It is slightly viscous in texture with solid fruit weight and glossy sensations on the finish. It is perfumed, pretty and ready to pair with white meat or shellfish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The holding is right in the middle of Bâtard-Montrachet, with rows all the way up and down. Mid yellow. A weighty punchy bouquet, not quite so fine. Massive on the palate and the fruit takes on a whiter, not over ripe configuration, with excellent thread of acidity. Still an absolute baby but will certainly achieve its grand cru status. Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMTOP QUALITY An exemplary Bâtard and among the best wines of the appellation. There is a deep lemon-yellow hue and pronounced ripe apple and pear fruit aromas with hints of spice, cream, butter and toasted hazelnut. The texture is lush and dense, just this side of opulence, but there is enough acidity to balance everything out and lead it to a harmonious, lingering finish. It is produced from a domaine-owned parcel of one third of a hectare on the border between Puligny and Chassagne, fermented and aged in new casks.Decanter | 95 DEC A restrained and distinctly citrus and floral-suffused nose displays hints of exotic tea, anise, oak and just sliced apple. There is both excellent volume and excellent delineation on the succulent but almost painfully punchy big-bodied flavors that terminate in a precise, balanced and bone-dry finale. This is presently very tightly coiled and a wine that will need extended keeping and should amply reward 12 to 15 years of it. Excellent. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 95 BHAromas of clear honey, sweet orchard fruit and white flowers preface Boillot’s 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and satiny wine with racy acids and a broad, expansive profile, concluding with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is heady, rich and exotic, with good depth for the year and plenty of allure. Apricot, tangerine oil, butter, white pepper, hazelnut, chamomile and lightly honeyed notes fill out the layers. This is a decidedly small-scaled Bâtard, but then again, we are talking about 2021. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 91-93 VM

Grown on the top of a dormant volcano, this Soave shows why Garganga is one of the great white grapes of Italy. The wine opens with apple and citrus blossoms with hints of acacia honey followed by fleshy white peaches, Fuji apples and well-defined minerality. The palate is creamy yet taut with fine acidity and tons of minerality accented by ripe stone fruits and citrus zest. Drink now–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEAnother brilliant expression, reflecting a culture of kaleidoscopic blending to attain a greater whole: tank and oak (no new) ferments, partly induced and spontaneous, all at once. Rapier-like precision, depth and weight, without any excess or obvious winemaking artefact perceivable. Mid-weighted, yet intense, reeling off notes of smoked almond, stone fruit allusions, pickled mango and kumquat. The finish is impressively pliant and majestically long.James Suckling | 93 JSStony, flinty, smoky aromas, with sparks of gunflint and green apple. There are some stone fruit characters too, white peach and a little almond bitterness. A wine with good tension, concentration, and there’s a subtle elegance.Decanter | 92 DEC

Droin owns 10ha of AP Chablis. Much more interest here with a deeper hue in the glass and much more interest on the nose. Some greengage on the palate, together with a hint of pear and white peach. Pretty much a benchmark example of what village Chablis should be. Concentration and a lengthy mineral character to finish.Decanter | 92 DECThis is aromatically similar to the Petit Chablis though with more citrus elements in evidence. There is again good richness to the succulent and rounded medium-weight flavors that also exude a refreshing salinity on the clean, moderately dry and sneaky long finish that is slightly firmer.Burghound | 88-91 BHThe 2021 Chablis Village has a fresh nose with Granny Smith apples and a touch of fresh pear. With good balance and acidity, the palate is quite saline in the mouth with veins of orchard fruit, hints of wild peach and citrus peel, delicate and refined on the finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Striking nose of rosehip and lime zest with delicate wild flower and herb aromas. Simultaneously structured and elegant, this dry riesling has remarkable concentration for just 11.5% alcohol. Long, silky, mineral finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2021 Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett trocken is clear, refined and elegant on the beautifully aromatic nose. Vinified in small and up to 60-hectoliter oak casks, this is a subtle, frisky but seriously calcareous Riesling with and intense and well-structured fruit texture and vivacious but ripe acidity that is interwoven with fine phenolic grip and stimulating, sustainable salinity. A gorgeous, still young Riesling bottled with 11.2% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Jazz hands at the ready, the Kumeu River Chardonnay Coddington is always ready to welcome you in with its full, svelte figure and no hard edges, and the 2021 is no different. However, this year there’s an additional touch of purpose that keeps it fresh and full of intention. Good depth and weight here, perhaps due to the lower crop after frost made for small yields. There’s a sense of feel, a sense of wanting to chew on the finish. Savory characters, festive spices and nutty notes, likely derived from its 25% new oak and time on lees in barrel, join the restrained white stone fruit.Vinous Media | 93 VM

This estate makes a bevy of terrific dry whites in addition to an incredible Sauternes. Starting with the 2021 Lions De Suduiraut Blanc Sec, which is a blend of 52% Semillon and 48% Sauvignon Blanc, it offers subtle grapefruit and citrus notes, a kiss of minerality, and a refreshing, vibrant, wonderfully balanced style on the palate. It’s a seriously good bottle of wine to drink in its youth.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2021 Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec is gorgeous. Rich, creamy and expressive, the 2021 is exquisite in its balance of textural richness and freshness. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint, lemon oil and chamomile envelop the palate, while bright floral accents perk up the finish. Lions is the new name for the Blanc Sec, which is the same wine as before.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGA tangy white with sliced grapefruit, apple and celery character. Medium body. Fresh finish. White pepper. Dry and chalky.James Suckling | 91 JS

The very young white 2021 Blanco de Sierra de Toloño is mostly Viura with some Calagraño and Rojal that is pure, fresh and straightforward, with a floral touch and a tasty finish from what Sandra Bravo described as "the finest vintage of my life." The grapes ripened late, at the same time as the old-vine Tempranillo. It has 12.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.23, medium-bodied, fresh, vibrant and tasty. Great value. 9,000 bottles were filled in March 2022 after resting in tank with lees.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Peaches, apricots, lemon curd, lychees and melons on the nose. Fruity and fresh with a medium body. Some delicious tropical-fruit character with a zesty finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JS

This is spiced and citrusy with sliced pears, lime peel, savory herbs and raw almonds. Medium- to full-bodied, juicy and crunchy with tense, phenolic character. Steady and vivid acidity. Lengthy and mineral with a creamy finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Piere is a spice bomb, holding my attention firm with a blast of ground ginger, cardamom, flint stone and curry before arriving at dried nectarines. It’s luxuriously silky yet lifted in style, with cooling minerality and acidity that motivates its floral-laced green citrus and melon tones. For all of its intensity, the 2021 finishes crisp and with a classically dry feel, as savory herbal tones resonate on. There is so much pleasure in this upfront, fruit-focused, yet truly seductive Sauvignon.Vinous Media | 92 VMLet this compact white open in the glass to reveal a fine, creamy range of apricot tarte, graphite, passion fruit coulis and Mediterranean scrub aromas and flavors, all underscored by a rich vein of smoky minerality. Racy, spiced finish. Best from 2024 through 2029. 600 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The varietal white 2021 Garnacha Blanca, from one of their favorite vintages, was picked early to produce the fresh profile they like, with 12.9% alcohol, a pH of 3.15 and 6.55 grams of acidity. They used grapes from the village of Fitero to ferment the must in stainless with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured mostly in concrete, a 2,000-liter Stockinger foudre and five new 500-liter French oak barrels. It’s fresh, floral and elegant, with purity and balance, a spicy touch from the wood. It has a very tasty finish and even a salty twist, super fresh with lots of finesse. It has volume and freshness, the vibrancy from an early harvest and the contained ripeness and alcohol. This is the style they wanted for this wine and took the time to find it; it’s more Burgundian than Mediterranean, to me. It should age nicely in bottle. And a bargain. 19,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2022 Vino Bianco Leukò bursts from the glass with a wild aromatic display of ground ginger, incense, dried peaches and sour melon. It’s soft and enveloping with a pleasant inner sweetness up front and zesty acidity as floral-laced white pit fruits and candied citrus tones cascade throughout. The palate is left reeling, watering for more, as a perfumed floral air dissipates over tropical kiwi hints. This is Leukò on steroids. It’s a blend of 70% Greco Bianco and 30% Gaglioppo, vinified white.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Aromatic, with terrific precision to the herbal details of white pepper, grapefruit, lemongrass and fresh-grated ginger. Packs a core of mouthwatering Meyer lemon, ruby grapefruit and green apple flavors that show a thread of savory salinity, with an intense, fresh finish. Drink now. 100,000 cases made, 70,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Rich and savory in the glass, the 2022 Bramìto della Sala slowly opens to show hints of young peach and apricot, crushed rocks and hints of cardamon. This is silky yet lifted in feel with ripe white pit fruits complemented by hints of vanilla bean and lemon custard. The 2022 finishes with admirable length and potency, as a bump of residual acidity maintains a lovely freshness. Bramìto della Sala remains one of the best values in Italian Chardonnay.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis fresh white shows fine interplay between rich hints of creamed apple, persimmon, vanilla and biscuit, with notes of Meyer lemon peel and tangy salinity. Light- to medium-bodied and creamy on the palate, with a well-cut finish. Drink now through 2027. 10,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The varietal Albariño 2022 X, which contains some 5% Treixadura, was produced with grapes from schist and granite soils. It has a nose of dry herbs and a Mediterranean feeling to it, perhaps from the warmer year. The palate has depth and personality, nice texture and a long aftertaste. 7,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPRicardo Carreiro’s Gomariz X bottling is made from a blend of ninety-five percent Albariño and five percent Treixadura. The wine is deep and complex, offering up a fine bouquet of tart orange, limepeel, a touch of menthol, stony minerality, dried flowers and a touch of lemongrass in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, fine mineral undertow and grip, a lovely spine of acidity and a long, well balanced and vibrant finish. In Ribeiro, blends of Albariño and Treixadura are usually weighted in the Treixadura direction, with Albariño playing a supporting role in the cuvée. It is fascinating to taste and example where the inverse is true. This is a lovely bottle. (Drink between 2024 - 2032)John Gilman | 92 JG

Golden flecks with a hint of green, this pithy wine shows rich yellow plum and an opulent, vibrant texture reflecting its flinty terroir. This is a precise wine with a long finish. The 2022 is naturally a little tight at present but has clear potential and should develop further in bottle. Fermented in stainless steel followed by six months on its lees. The Famille Bourgeois took over the small domaine, which is based in Saint-Satur, noted for its flinty soils. Florent Bourgeois has been in charge since 2013. Prior to this Florent had gained wide experience both in France and also in California, Argentina and at Clos Henri, the Bourgeois property in New Zealand.Decanter | 92 DEC

Aromas of ripe summer peach, lemon zest, wet river rocks and honeysuckle waft from the glass. This wine is full in the mouth and has brilliant acidity. It offers flavors of orange marmalade, peach pie, lemon, and dried herbs de Provence. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe white fruit has a nervy minerality with green apple aromas and seashell chalkiness. Nicely saline on the palate with a medium body and a bone-dry, tangy finish with some seashells and peaches. Vegan. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2022 La Cotes des Monts Damnés is a ripe, full-bodied style with power and weight. It is pure, fragrant and attractive even in youth, with floral and richly fruity characters - all nectarine and pineapple flavors. Expect a concentrated, intense wine that retains a sense of purpose and a lightly chalky texture. One for the long haul.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a complex bouquet with touches of white peach and a muscat-like scent, very focused and seductive. The palate conveys energy and vigor with citrus fruit and hints of orange zest towards the persistent finish. Superb.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2022 Chablis Vosgros 1er Cru, which is already in bottle, has a harmonious bouquet with fleeting lime, wet stone and a touch of citrus peel. Nicely detailed. The palate is sapid on the entry, with plenty of oyster shell/marine notes and a classically styled, almost "mean" finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92 VMDroin explains that although Vosgros is technically a left bank premier cru, it faces the same way as the top right bank climats. Although with a direct southwesterly exposition, the vines are located in a very cold valley. More restraint here, good density, but a little less of a mineral thread.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2022 Saumur Blanc from Lena Filliatreau is a lovely wine. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant blend of sweet quince, lemon, chalky soil tones, limepeel, a touch of lanolin and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, zesty acids and excellent focus and grip on the long and very well balanced finish. Fine juice that is already quite easy to drink, but will be even better with a few years’ worth of bottle age. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 92 JG

The 2022 Malvasia Volcánica from Bermejo is a fine, fine follow-up to the excellent 2021 version. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant and complex blend of tangerine, peach, lime blossoms, a lovely base of volcanic minerality, a touch of wild fennel and a lovely array of other floral tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and zesty, with a superb core of fruit, excellent mineral drive and grip, lovely balance and a long, complex and very classy finish. This is superb wine. (Drink between 2023 - 2035)John Gilman | 92+ JG