Refreshing Whites

wines

"The Chatin family purchased Château de Respide in 2021. Amelie Chatin is originally from the Champagne region and worked as an oenologist for Dom Ruinart for nine years prior to travelling and eventually settling here in Graves. Her regular bottling of Graves Blanc is made from a fifty-fifty blend of sauvignon blanc and sémillon, with the vines generally planted on gravelly or sandy soils, though some plots are on chalk. The wine is fermented and raised in stainless steel tanks. The 2022 version offers up a deep and complex bouquet of fresh fig, gooseberry, a lovely base of soil, gentle notes of fresh-cut grass and a topnote of lime zest. On the palate the wine is vibrant, focused and full-bodied, with lovely depth at the core, fine soil signature and grip, bouncy acids and excellent balance on the long, complex and very serious finish. This is outstanding white Graves."John Gilman | 91 JG

Situated just 100 meters from the estate, the 2022 Sancerre Les Denisottes plot spans a modest 1.3 hectares of clay and calcareous soils known as “terres blanches” in Sancerre. Evoking a pure, delicate bouquet of ripe orchard fruits, spices, pear and licorice, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and mouth coating with a seamless texture, a fleshy core of fruit and a tense, ethereal, delicate finish enhanced by notes of citrus. Matured for 14 months in large wood barrels, this wine has the potential to gracefully reach its 15th anniversary in fine form.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2022 Les Denisottes offers ripe fruit and tenderness. The clay-chalk soils provide a mouth-filling texture. And yet, it maintains a line of tension and purpose that you might not have anticipated on the first sip. The structured grip on the finish offers assurance and a frame for this wine to mature nicely. It is long and scented with nectarine, honeydew melon and subtle oak-derived nuances.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Formerly chief oenologist for Jean-Marc Brocard in Chablis, Clotilde Davenne started her own domaine in 2005. Now with 30ha of estate vines, she makes wines from Chablis, Petit Chablis and other regional Bourgogne appellations. From her home vineyard in Préhy, planted on limestone in the 1970s, this unoaked white spends up to 18 months on fine lees in tank to accentuate the fruit. Andy Howard MW: Appealing, good density, powerful and lingering finish. Great clarity and focus. I would certainly place this as a good AP (or even premier cru) Chablis. Beatrice Bessi: Vibrant nose, layers of orange, grapefruit, basil, lemongrass. Lovely palate, refreshing, with good concentration of fruit. Good complexity. Class. Georgina Crawley: An inviting nose of fresh almond and hazelnut, greengage and fleshy stone fruits. Rounded depth, silky texture, a mineral finish with freshness and salinity.Decanter | 95 DEC

Aged 12 months in neutral barrels, the 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé has a gorgeous perfume of spiced citrus and orchard fruits, honeyed white flowers, and a kiss of sappy herbs. Wonderfully balanced, medium-bodied, textured, and elegant, it’s a beautiful white from this estate that will shine for 4-6 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

Pure, clean orchard and tropical fruits, spice, crushed stone, and white flower notes all emerge from the 2022 Saint Véran, a medium-bodied, clean, incredibly classy, balanced Saint Véran that has good mid-palate density, integrated acidity, and outstanding length.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

Exhibiting a delicate, subtle bouquet of oak reduction, white orchard fruits and flowers, the 2022 Sancerre Les Chasseignes possesses a medium to full-bodied, satiny and deep palate with a seamless texture, a fleshy core of fruit and a long, saline, ethereal finish. Matured for 14 months in barrels, this Sancerre, crafted from vines planted on chalky soils at the top of hillsides facing northeast, is simply stunning.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2022 Les Chasseignes is a silky, richly textured Sancerre with a volume sensation in the mouth. There’s an impression of sweet fruit and glycerol, which coats the palate on the long finish. Gently refreshing rather than bright, this marks a departure from the previous racy vintage.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2022 Muscadet “la Pépiè” from Domaine de la Pépière is a lovely wine on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is bright and precise, wafting from the glass in a mix of lemon, breadfruit, dried flowers, lovely leesy tones, wet stone minerality and a briny topnote of damp ocean breeze. On the palate the wine is bright, ripe and full-bodied, with a lovely girdle of acidity, superb mineral drive, fine focus and a long, perfectly balanced and complex finish. First class juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2035)John Gilman | 91+ JG

This Vire Clesse from Roally showcases the pinnacle of Maconnais Chardonnay, hailing from one of the finest vintages in recent memory. On the nose, it offers an enticing bouquet of spring flowers intertwined with aromatic notes of lemon balm, white peach and verbena. On the palate, it is lively and fresh and the wine’s minerality shines through exhibiting the characteristic flinty undertone that is prized in the best examples from this appellation. This is the under $35 bottle of white Burgundy that Puligny Montrachet lovers serve at parties and pools. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 94 SP

The 2022 Viré-Clessé Breillonde is aged two-thirds in demi-muids and the rest in stainless steel. This has a slightly cooler and more malic bouquet than the regular Viré-Clessé. There’s some reserve here, so it will demand more coaxing. The palate is well balanced with a dab of dried honey and stem ginger on the entry. Quite a pithy Viré-Clessé complex with a very keen line of acidity that cuts through the waxy finish. There’s a hint of Muscat on the aftertaste. This is a great wine, and it should age well over the next 12-15 years.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Quite an aromatic chardonnay here, with discerning notes of sliced green apples, melon and lemon zest. Round and textured, with simple apple pith and nectarines in the pristine yet flavorful palate. Lots of fruit in the round, medium- to full-bodied palate. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JS

This bottling is made from the same tuffeau-based vineyard as the Silex Noir and Trois Argile Demi-Sec bottlings from Domaine Pinon. It is handled the same in the cellars as the regular Sec bottling, with indigenous yeast fermentation and aging in a variety of older, large oak barrels. The wine offers up a beautifully refined aromatic constellation of apple, sweet quince, bee pollen, white lilies, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones and a nice touch of lanolin in the upper register. On the palate the wine is vibrant, focused and full-bodied, with a rock solid core, superb mineral drive and cut, snappy acids and great balance on the long, complex and very precise finish. This is outstanding juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2065)John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2022 Les Déronnières Sec is the domaine’s limestone-derived dry Chenin that sits almost above the cellars on the appellation’s premiere cotes. Julien Pinon calls it a parcel for lazy people (!) as it’s easier to maintain than clay parcels, leading to better drainage, fewer frosts and requiring less work while making smaller bunches with smaller berries. It may offer tenderness initially but remains a fresh, well-defined style. There is plenty of concentration here, and the balance is impeccable. In addition to attractive apple fruit, it has spiced pastry flavors.Vinous Media | 93 VM

I was drinking 2014 Leflaive Batard Montrachet, which was an epic $1,000 bottle by the way, and then popped this Sancerre. To my surprise, it just exploded from the glass, and in complete opposition to the weight of the Batard Montrachet, the Sancerre’s purity and laser- like precision stood out big time. Most Sancerres are fun for being light and grassy, but this is the next level connoisseur Sancerre. It has the purity and elegance of the wine I was drinking beside it, yet it’s only $39.99 / bottle. Best of breed.Dave Sokolin | 95+ DSThe 2022 La Cotes des Monts Damnés is a ripe, full-bodied style with power and weight. It is pure, fragrant and attractive even in youth, with floral and richly fruity characters - all nectarine and pineapple flavors. Expect a concentrated, intense wine that retains a sense of purpose and a lightly chalky texture. One for the long haul.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2022 Chablis Village has a crisp, focused bouquet with hints of pressed white flowers and wet stone. The elegant palate has flecks of white peach and apricot, balanced and lovely with a charming, precise finish. This is very capable and should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Plenty of density evident. A fine combination with concentration, a touch of smoke and richess on the palate, cut with direct acidity. Sunny and ripe yet remains fresh and focused. Will appeal when still relatively young but has the ability to age well.Decanter | 93 DEC

The 2022 Chablis Sainte Claire, which comes from organically grown fruit within several large parcels, is one of the hidden gems from Brocard. The enticing nose offers Mirabelle, wet stone and nuanced patisserie scents, with just a hint of white asparagus in the background. The palate is well-balanced, with a crisp bead of acidity and commendable depth. This is a strong follow-up to the impressive 2021; who knows, it may surpass it.Vinous Media | 90+ VM

Dense and rich style with a hint of reduction on the nose. More peach fruit than the citrus seen in Brocard’s other Chablis. Love the extra weight here, very classy and fine. Aged in wood (petit foudre of 15 hectolitres). Comes from a massale selection planted after the Second World War.Decanter | 93 DEC

Restrained on the nose, with a brooding, savoury character on the palate. Initially a bit more subdued than the ’straight’ Chablis Sainte Claire, this has the potential for future development given the concentration on show; certainly pushing premier cru quality, if not even higher. Julien Brocard explains that the vines here age up to 75 years, reaching down 25m into the soil.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2022 Chablis Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire has a more backward, less articulate nose than the regular cuvée at this time. The palate has a pleasing lick of salinity on the entry. With fine depth, this linear and taut Chablis will appeal to those seeking a more classic style in this warmer vintage. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91 VMAt least 60 years old. A clean clear colour with a green edge. There is notably more reduction here as well as a broader depth of white fruit. This terroir tends to reduce a little bit and that also explains the little youthful bitter touch. Yet the wine expands beautifully across the palate Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

Julien Brocard’s ’7 Lieux’ are seven distinct vineyards, run biodynamically under his own name. Fermented with indigenous yeast and matured for 12 months in foudres. Lovely wine with a fine balance of fleshiness, power, vivid acidity and lingering minerality to keep everything precise and in check. You can almost feel the health of the vineyard. Delicious.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2022 Chablis La Boissonneuse has a clean, precise bouquet with more mineralité than the Petit Chablis, a subtle crustacea scent emerging with time. The palate is taut on the entry with commendable linearity, certainly one of the stricter, meaner takes of the vintage that will appeal to Chablis purists. Good value.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2022 Saumur Blanc from Lena Filliatreau is a lovely wine. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant blend of sweet quince, lemon, chalky soil tones, limepeel, a touch of lanolin and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, zesty acids and excellent focus and grip on the long and very well balanced finish. Fine juice that is already quite easy to drink, but will be even better with a few years’ worth of bottle age. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 92 JG

This stellar Sancerre is a remarkable expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. This wine captivates the senses with an enchanting mélange of aromas, featuring vibrant notes of pink grapefruit, pear and green apple. These scents are harmoniously balanced, offering a fresh and crisp bouquet that invites you to delve deeper. The wine’s crisp acidity and mineral undertones contribute to its refreshing character, making it an excellent companion for a variety of dishes, from seafood to goat cheese. What truly sets this Sancerre apart, however, is its long, lingering finish. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 94+ SP

The 2022 vintage of Muscadet “les Gras Moutons” from Domaine de la Pépière is a beautiful wine, offering up a precise and complex bouquet of lemon, breadfruit, wet stone minerality, dried flowers and a discreet foundation of leesy tones. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, focused and complex, with superb depth of fruit at the core, lovely mineral drive and grip, zesty acids and a long, impeccably balanced and very, very classy finish. This is superb Muscadet! (Drink between 2023 - 2055)John Gilman | 94 JG

Aged for seven months in wood, this ripe wine has power as well as richness. Its spicy character chimes with the dense white fruits from old Sémillon. Drink from 2025.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE