Saint Emilion

wines

A great Angelus and one of the two or three best vintages made under the talented young Hubert de Bouard, this wine still has a youthful, saturated ruby/purple color and a sweet nose of melted licorice intermixed with creme de cassis, tapenade, cedar, spice box, and vanilla. Very full-bodied, opulent, and rich, it is one of the 1989s that justifies the lofty reputation of this vintage. Extremely full-bodied, this wine can be drunk now or cellared for at least another 10-15 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 4/02.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 1989 Angélus is a vintage that I have tasted multiple times from various formats. It remains one of my favorite of that era. Still quite deep in color, it has a glorious, almost hubristic bouquet of layers of lush black cherries, cedar, sage and meat juice aromas as it moves assuredly into its secondary phase. The palate has always been very harmonious and smooth, the tannins finer than preceding vintages. There is lovely grip here, and black truffle and smoky notes appear on the finish. A quite marvelous Château Angélus. Tasted at the château.Vinous Media | 96 VMWow. What a reserved, yet seductive nose of milk chocolate, raspberry and mineral aromas that go on and on. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a mineral, berry, blackberry and violet flavor. This is polished and racy on the palate. So young still. Why wait? But serious and classic.--’89/’99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

One-third each of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, 100% new oak, with a harvest that lasted from 17 September to 6 October. Still deep in colour, and is given a huge boost by the Cabernets. The high sugar and low acidity comes through to give some ripe, almost overripe character with figs and rich berry jam notes. Gentle cold ash and menthol freshness work wonders at the close of play, giving a real boost to the length of the wine on the finish.Decanter | 96 DECOne of Bordeaux’s most schizophrenic properties, as disappointing as Figeac’s 1989 has turned out, the 1990 is fabulous. This property has not made a wine as rich as the 1990 since 1982. In contrast to the 1989, the 1990 is a great Figeac, potentially a richer, more complete and complex wine than the 1982. The 1990 exhibits a saturated dark purple color (somewhat atypical for Figeac), and a gorgeous nose of olives, fruitcake, jammy black fruits, minerals, and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, with gobs of glycerin-imbued, sweet, jammy fruit, this wine is nicely buttressed by moderate tannin and adequate acidity. Fleshy and rich, as well as elegant and complex, it is approachable because of the wine’s sweet fruit, but it promises even more pleasure with 2-4 more years of bottle age; it will last for 20 years. I predict the 1990 Figeac will have one of the most exotic and compelling aromatic profiles of the 1990s. It is a terrific wine!Robert Parker | 94 RPThe 1990 Figeac has been variable over the years, perhaps some bottles showing some brettanomyces? My last bottle was definitely one of the best. Deep in colour, it has a very expressive Cabernet component. Black truffle, Earl grey and cigar humidor scents gain momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, a little leathery on the entry with loose-knit, maybe even slightly rustic red fruit. This is not a finely-tuned Figeac, yet it is full of charm. There is just a mote of dryness on the finish, suggesting that it might well be reaching the end of its drinking plateau. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux.Vinous Media | 93 VMRuby color. Interesting aromas of plums, leaves and berries. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a ripe fruit and chocolate aftertaste. Rich and chunky Figeac.--1990 Bordeaux retrospective. Drink now. 12,500 cases made. Wine Spectator | 90 WS

(a 53/47 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; 13% alcohol; yield of 45 h/h): Bright red. Pure aromas of strawberry, flowers, soy sauce, espresso and minerals. Then clean and straightforward on the palate, with nicely balanced flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes very long and smooth. A very good Cheval Blanc, bigger than the 1996 but perhaps a touch less delineated; choosing between the two amounts to a case of different strokes for different folks. This was a warm year: temperatures during the 1995 growing season were on average 1.5°C higher than the previously recorded annual averages, with a very hot July and August, and the harvest took place early, between September 15 and 28. In fact, only the 1989 and 1990 harvests began earlier.Vinous Media | 93+ VMMedium ruby-garnet edge. Intense aromas of plums, cherries and dark chocolate. Full-bodied and very tight, with supersilky tannins and a long finish. Solid core of fruit. Still holding back.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2009.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA pretty, attractive Cheval Blanc, the 1995 contains a higher percentage of Merlot in the final blend than usual (50% Merlot/50% Cabernet Franc). This wine has not developed as much fat or weight as its younger sibling, the 1996, but it appears to be an outstanding Cheval Blanc with an enthralling smoky, black currant, coffee, and exotic bouquet. Complex, rich, medium to full-bodied flavors are well-endowed and pure, with surprisingly firm tannin in the finish. Unlike the sweeter, riper 1996, the 1995 may be more structured and potentially longer-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020.Robert Parker | 92 RP

Best Figeac in years. Loads of blackberry, chocolate and stones. Full-bodied and concentrated with masses of tannins and fruit. Long, long finish. Needs time. Best after 2002. 9,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS(Château Figeac) 1995 was the fiftieth vintage for Thierry Manoncourt and the château designed a special label to mark the anniversary. Happily, Monsieur Manoncourt was blessed with a great vintage to mark his fiftieth, as the 1995 Figeac is a stunning wine. The bouquet is deep, complex and blossoming beautifully at age seventeen, jumping from the glass in classic mélange of red plums, black cherries, Cuban tobacco, bitter chocolate, cigar smoke, sweet nutty tones, complex soil nuances and a deft framing of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and starting to really develop its secondary layers, with a fine core of fruit, lovely focus and complexity, bright acids and excellent length and grip on the perfectly poised and suavely tannic finish. A beautiful vintage of Figeac. (Drink between 2015-2055)John Gilman | 95 JGTasted at the Château Figeac vertical at the property from one of the last remaining imperials, one could argue that the six-liter format would have benefit the 1995 Figeac. Even so, that should not take anything away from this, the best vintage of that decade. Firstly, one notices that it is deeper in color than the underwhelming 1996. Then you fall into the aromatics, a beguiling concoction of blackcurrant pastilles, melted tar and tobacco all beautifully preserved after two decades. What differentiates it from the succeeding vintages is that here there is the fruit to back it up. The palate is fresh and quite dense in the mouth. The acidity is perfectly matched to the fruit, lively with a touch of piquancy on the ebullient, red cherry and wild strawberry finish that still has a bit of glycerin. The 1995 is the best vintage between 1990 and 2001, and represents a worthy wine to celebrate Thierry Manoncourt’s 50th vintage. Tasted June 2015.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92 RP-NMVery good full color. Lively, thoroughly ripe aromas of redcurrant, sweet butter, minerals and spices. A step up in concentration from the last two wines; full and sweet, with a mineral pungency brightening the fruit. Offers lovely finishing sweetness and dusty, ripe tannins that reach more of the mouth. Very rich but graceful wine.Vinous Media | 91 VM

At 56% Cabernet Franc, this is a bright, floral Cheval Blanc, with white pepper, strawberry, mineral and oriental spice notes lingering nicely. Drinking Window 2015 - 2036Decanter | 95 DEC(a blend of 56% cabernet franc and 44% merlot; 40 h/h): Bright red. Fresh floral, white pepper, raspberry and strawberry aromas on the captivating nose, lifted by minerals and Oriental spices. Very fresh, balanced and pure on the palate, with bright red berry, floral and delicately smoky plum flavors. Very cabernet franc, and very Cheval Blanc! The lively, harmonious acids keep this wine light on its feet and really extend the flavors on the back half. The long finish features a subtly spicy kick and smooth tannins. A touch more density and it would have scored even higher. The harvest took place between September 28 and October 4.Vinous Media | 93 VMMedium ruby, with a garnet edge. Aromas of plum and fresh herbs, such as basil, that turn to cedar and cigar box. Full-bodied, with soft, silky tannins. Long and flavorful, with subtle chocolate, berry and light coffee aftertaste. Gorgeous.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2007.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThe elegant, moderately weighted 1996 Cheval Blanc reveals a deep garnet/plum, evolved color. Quintessentially elegant, with a complex nose of black fruits, coconut, smoke, and pain grille, this medium-bodied wine exhibits sweet fruit on the attack, substantial complexity, and a lush, velvety-textured finish. It is very soft and evolved for a 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2015.Robert Parker | 90 RP

The 1997 Barolo Le Vigne is another wine that faithfully expresses the personality of the vintage. Rich, dense and beautifully layered in the glass, the 1997 is a luscious, deep Barolo with considerable appeal. My only quibble is that the French oak is a bit too dominant.Vinous Media | 95 VMDark ruby red, with a garnet edge. Aromas of dried currant, raisin and vanilla beans. Full-bodied, with loads of ripe fruit, from strawberry to peach to mango. Exotic fruit. Gorgeous wine. Irresistible.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Drink now. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe dark ruby-colored 1997 Barolo Le Vigne reveals amber at the edge. It offers stunning aromatics consisting of flowers, black fruits, lead pencil, spice box, and minerals. As is typical for Sandrone's offerings, there is extraordinary purity as well as intensity to the blackberry and cherry fruit flavors. As the wine sits in the glass, mineral and tar notes become more apparent. This is a stunning, gorgeously pure, Chateau Margaux-like Barolo to consume between 2002-2018.Robert Parker | 94 RP

Pale to medium garnet-brick in color, the 1998 Pavie Macquin simply sings with incredibly pure, spritely notes of blueberry preserves, blackberry pie and black cherry compote, revealing loads of eucalyptus, mocha, dried lavender and Chinese five spice accents. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is has wonderfully seductive blue and black fruit layers, framed by velvety tannins and the perfect amount of freshness to create tantalizing tension, finishing with incredible length and depth. Effortlessly delicious and yet possessing plenty of subtext for intellectual stimulation, I just love where this compelling ’98 is at right now!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 1998 Pavie-Macquin is by far the most important wine of the 1990s at Pavie-Macquin. All of the signatures of the estate are present. A wine of textural depth and resonance, the 1998 captures all of the intensity this site is capable of. Dark red cherry fruit, kirsch, smoke and spice build in a stunning, riveting wine that hits all the right notes. It was a near-perfect growing season, with hot days, cool nights and enough dryness to concentrate the fruit but not overly stress the vines.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGJust hitting its stride now, this pulls together fleshy yet elegant cherry, plum and blackberry fruit, along with notes of black tea, sandalwood and incense. The chalky spine is fully integrated and very long. This shows a caressing feel on the finish before the wine reasserts itself at the very end, adding lovely contrast and mouthfeel. Derenoncourt feels this is the first true grand vin of Pavie Macquin, for that minerality and precision.--Non-blind Pavie Macquin vertical (December 2014). Drink now through 2020. 4,091 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSFully mature, yet with plenty of life ahead of it, the 1998 Château Pavie Macquin reveals a ruby/plum hue to go with straight-up textbook Saint-Emilion notes of red and black currants, white truffle, dried flowers, lead pencil, leather, and tobacco. These all carry to a deep, rich, concentrated wine that has a beautiful balance in its acidity, tannins, and fruit, a core of sweet fruit, plenty of mid-palate density, and outstanding length. While I don’t think the tannin quality matches what this estate is producing today, this is a brilliant, mature 1998 that brings loads of character and charm. This wine comes from a cooler, limestone terroir located above Château Pavie, on the upper plateau, and is based on 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JD

Solid and superfruity. Ultraclean, with blackberries, raspberries and licorice character. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long finish. Focused and silky. Very refined indeed. One of the best Cannubis ever from here. Best after 2009. 900 cases made, 340 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2000 Barolo Cannubi Boschis shows early signs of maturity in its autumn leaves, leather and spices. There is an attractive silkiness to the fruit, but ultimately the 2000 comes across as a bit two-dimensional, especially in context with some of the truly great vintages. The wine does freshen up a touch in the glass, not enough to make a material difference. Ideally the 2000 is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2000 Barolo Cannubi Boschis shows early signs of maturity in its autumn leaves, leather and spices. There is an attractive silkiness to the fruit, but ultimately the 2000 comes across as a bit two-dimensional, especially in context with some of the truly great vintages. The wine does freshen up a touch in the glass, not enough to make a material difference. Ideally the 2000 is best enjoyed over the next few years.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Extremely young with an unbelievable deep purple color, the 2000 Troplong Mondot has hardly budged since I tasted it in 2003. Two recent tastings confirmed that this is the greatest Troplong Mondot between their profound 1990 and more recent vintages such as 2005, 2008, and 2009. Copious chocolate, graphite, blackberry, blueberry, cassis, and ink characteristics are present in this full-bodied, powerful, massive St.-Emilion. While the tannins are noticeable, they are better integrated than they were seven years ago, and the fruit, extract, and richness clearly outweigh the wine’s structure. This 2000 will benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring (longer than I originally predicted), and has at least two decades of drinkability ahead of it.Robert Parker | 96 RPThe 2000 Troplong Mondot is another vintage that I have not tasted for a long time. This includes some Cabernet Sauvignon that was north-facing and subsequently removed for the 2001. The youthful bouquet of black cherries, cassis, marmalade and blood orange is vibrant and precocious and shows fewer secondary aromas than some of its peers. It opens nicely to reveal camphor and star anise aromas, almost Rhône-like. The palate is chewy, quite dense and backward but initially lacks a bit of charm. Licorice and sloes come through. Slightly granular in texture, it feels tight at first, but it deserves applause for its freshness and improves with aeration, loosening up and finally developing that missing charm.Vinous Media | 93 VMNo written review provided. | 93 W&SA soft, rich wine that bears all the classic qualities of the Valette family’s winery - a strength of line along and complexity. The fruit is ripe, ultra-generous, but is still tempered with layers of acidity and soft tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WELovely berry, cherry and spice, with hints of mineral. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a pretty mineral and berry aftertaste. A sexy and refined red. Best after 2009. 7,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Tasted at the Valandraud vertical at the property, the 2000 Valandraud has a very dark color with just a thin crimson rim. The bouquet is exquisite: intense black cherry and blackcurrant scents, sandalwood, cedar and spices, complex and involving, the aromatics appear to just grow and grow. The palate is medium-bodied with supple red and black fruit, fine tannins and perfect acidity. It feels backward but very tensile with a flow of energy towards the precise and deeply impressive finish. This is an outstanding millennial Saint Emilion from Jean-Luc Thunévin. Tasted December 2016.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 95 RP-NMNoticeably mature, with coffee, dark earth and roasted wood notes leading the way, while the core of black currant and dark plum fruit flavors is well-mulled. Though this sports a bit of a chewy, fleshy feel, everything pulls together through the finish, and this shows some serious length.--Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. 1,417 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThis has a fascinating coffee and chocolate character with a hazelnut edge. Full and velvety but turns a little austere. Bright acidity. Try after 2013.James Suckling | 93 JSSaturated ruby-red. Ripe, expressive aromas of black cherry, blackberry and espresso. Sweet, concentrated and quite perfumed in the mouth, with notes of oaky torrefaction currently dominating the wine’s dark fruit flavors. Distinctly powerful for Valandraud, and impressively long on the finish, with a sweet, chocolatey aftertaste. A sample of the same juice tasted just after the last racking showed more precision of aromas and more clarity in the mouth, with strong raspberry fruit to go with the smoky oak.Vinous Media | 91-92 VM

Loads of blackberry, cherry and dark licorice character. Full-bodied and velvety, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Pretty. Loads of depth and style. Gorgeous. Sandrone makes the best Cannubi. Almost as great as the 2000. Best after 2008. 840 cases made, 215 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2001 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is in a beautiful place right now. The aromas are starting to show the early signs of maturity, but there is plenty of fruit and depth in the glass. Sweet, layered and impeccable, the 2001 turns silky and delicate as its sits in the glass. Today my sense is that the 2001 won’t be one of the more long-lived vintages. Hints of licorice, dried flowers and new leather are woven into the rich, textured, fabric. This is a great showing for the Cannubi Boschis. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2001 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is in a beautiful place right now. The aromas are starting to show the early signs of maturity, but there is plenty of fruit and depth in the glass. Sweet, layered and impeccable, the 2001 turns silky and delicate as its sits in the glass. Today my sense is that the 2001 won't be one of the more long-lived vintages. Hints of licorice, dried flowers and new leather are woven into the rich, textured, fabric. This is a great showing for the Cannubi Boschis.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Displays stunning aromas of crushed blackberry, strawberry and raspberry, with hints of sandalwood. Full-bodied, with focused flavors of fruit, toasty oak, vanilla bean and cedar. Long and caressing, this is a powerful yet balanced red. Best after 2016. 550 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSSomewhat of a paradox to taste, on the palate this wine is close to perfection, but the nose is somewhat reduced, with some fig and prune notes. What doesn’t make sense is that the palate is fresh, full-bodied and super-concentrated, with great blue, red and black fruits, licorice, earth and spice. This is a massive wine, but the nose has me worried.Robert Parker | 95+ RPSaturated, deep ruby-red. Superripe black fruits, licorice, graphite and violet on the nose. Wonderfully sweet and scented on the palate, with terrific aromatic lift to the explosive dark fruit, mineral and floral flavors. The wine’s powerful rocky minerality and high-pitched berry fruit nicely leaven the almost exaggerated ripeness of the vintage, giving this wine terrific freshness and extending its finish. An outstanding combination of sweetness and power. I can see this improving in bottle for 20 years.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The Château Canon 2005 has a more complex nose than the Clos Fourtet tasted alongside. It is tightly wound at first with black cherries and dried violet petals, terracotta tiles and brown spices. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. This is very harmonious in the mouth, nicely structured with great precision and persistence. There is a sense of reserve here, but it has a compelling complexity that will surely be enhanced with bottle age. It’s wines like these that remind you why this has such as devoted following that includes yours truly among its number.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 96 RP-NMThe 2005 Canon is all brawn and muscle. Chunky tannins give the 2005 a decidedly virile feel. There is plenty of depth and freshness - this is after all one of the very best sites in all of Bordeaux - so the 2005 will hold for many years to come. Dark fruit, leather, smoke, gravel, crushed rocks and spice linger on the potent finish. Tasting the 2005 today really highlights how far Canon has come in recent yearsVinous Media | 95 VMThe 2005 Château Canon is beautiful, although I think it checks in behind vintages such as 2009, 2015, 2016, and 2017. Revealing a deep ruby/purple hue as well as mineral-laced notes of black raspberries, black cherries, white flowers, crushed rock, and Asian spice, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, incredible purity, and flawless balance. It stays more compact and tight, with little in the way of baby fat, but it’s incredibly elegant and pure. A gorgeous, layered, seamless wine that blossoms with a decant, it unquestionably has another 20-25 years of prime drinking.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDAromas of fresh cep mushrooms, berries, spices, roses, and sous bois, give way to hints of milk chocolate and vanilla. Full and rich, with beautifully balanced tannins and a long finish. Loads going on in this wine, yet it remains subtle and beautiful. This needs time. Pull the cork after 2015.James Suckling | 94 JSShows a lightly roasted edge at first, with raspberry and boysenberry confiture notes laced with melted licorice, singed alder and firm graphite details. Reveals a fine chalky hint, but this has more bass than treble overall. Still rather tight.—Non-blind Canon vertical (December 2016). Best from 2020 through 2030. 4,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSFreshness and richness combine in this wine. There’s a eucalyptus freshness that goes with the intense acidity. But alongside this is the dark, dense blackberry fruit that layers with the hints of wood. Keep this for six years before tasting, and then for many more.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE(Château Canon) While the 2006 Canon is still open and quite easy to project on into its future, the 2005 has gone into hibernation and is not particularly forthcoming at the present time. The bouquet reluctantly yields up scents of black cherries, dark chocolate, tobacco leaf, some gravelly soil tones and a bit of spicy new wood that is buried deep in the other aromatic elements. On the palate the wine is very full-bodied, deep and rock solid at the core, with the vintage’s beautiful taught acidity really sealing up this beauty from the mid-palate back. The finish is long, firmly tannic and superbly well focused, with excellent grip and a palate-staining persistency. Today this wine is hermetically sealed, but it will be superb at its apogee. (Drink between 2025-2075)John Gilman | 92-94+ JG