Sangiovese

wines

This wine always stands out in my mind, and it’s worth dedicating a few words as to why. Poggio Valente offers us a rare opportunity to taste Sangiovese made according to the highest standards but from a territory—on the Tuscan Coast—that does not share a big legacy with monovarietal Sangiovese reds. The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Poggio Valente was born in a happy vintage with a cool spring and a growing season that had plenty of underground water reserves to keep the vines hydrated well until the end of August. This is a full and generous wine with dark cherry and wild plum aromas that segue to tar, licorice and crushed slate. My sample (tasted a few weeks after bottling) was a little shy initially, but it quickly blossomed in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is very dense and structured with stone and blackberry character. Full-bodied and intense with chewy tannins that frame the wine. Flavorful finish. Smoky and lightly bitter, in a good way. Pure sangiovese. This needs time to soften. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Poggio Valente is gorgeous. Bright and vibrant in the glass with terrific energy, the Poggio Valente is a fine example of the style favored here these days. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal, spice and orange zest complement a core of Sangiovese fruit. I especially like the vibrancy here. The 2019 is absolutely delicious. That’s all there is to it.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGA red with intensity on a weightless frame, leaving plenty of room for cherry, blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and white pepper flavors to shine. The tannins are present, yet uplifting rather than obtrusive. Sangiovese. Best from 2023 through 2032. 2,900 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

It has a supremely enticing nose.. With the 2019 there is an added precision to the aromas, less heavy oak, and no greenness on the palate. It is concentrated with a rich velvety texture but without any heaviness and with a gentle unforced quality. The tannins are fine and very well integrated, in fact finer and better integrated than even the excellent 2016 vintage. It is of course very young now but it’s almost too delicious not to drink! Supremely graceful, it just gets better and better.TWI | 100 TWIThe 2019 Cepparello has closed down quite a bit since I tasted it last year, as if all of its energy is focused inward. That won’t be an issue in another few years’ time, but for now readers should resist any temptation to open bottles. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous Sangiovese fruit, along with hints of blood orange, spice, cedar, mint and tobacco, all wrapped together by plush, silky contours. The purity of the fruit is just striking. In 2019, Cepparello is more finesse than power. I expect it will age beautifully over the next several decades.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGSo much licorice and fennel seed with black cherry and a hint of tomato paste. Medium body, round texture and savory flavors. Pretty and fresh at the end, with subtle flavors. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

Warm, savory aromas of car tire, tar and coffee headline the nose, while undertones of fennel, orange peel and black cherry add freshness, texture and just enough sweetness. The palate stays warm, but sweetens with notes of cherry, strawberry and more citrus that create a sunny, light feel that contrasts with highly textured tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WELots of dark-fruit notes of brambles and blueberries, followed by dried fennel, vanilla bean and sandalwood. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and savory herb aftertaste. Back in form with this vintage. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 94 JSThe red/garnet 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is generous on opening with ripe notes of crushed blackberries, fresh leather, forest floor, and balsamic herbs. Full-bodied without being heavy, it’s juicy and open-knit on the palate, with ripe tannins and a very nice touch of tea leaf on the finish. It’s a very pleasing wine to enjoy over the next 8-10 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is intense, with a rich and savory bouquet that blends plum sauce and dried black cherries with brown spice and dried flowers. It’s silky smooth and more energetic than expected, with a seductive core of ripe red and blue fruits accentuated by sweet spice and violet pastille. This finishes edgy, nervy and long, leaving a lingering tension, silty tannins and a fading licorice note.Vinous Media | 91 VM

This late-release 2019 Gran Selezione is a selection of the estate’s lower altitude, oldest vines, planted in 1965. It spends 24 months in large casks before bottling, and impresses with its poise. Tobacco, black tea and ripe cherry scents evoke the beauty of Sangiovese, with bold and vibrant dark berries and balsamic ripples in the mouth. The fruit is dark in tone but bright in nature, complemented by zesty acidity, floral lift and wonderful sapidity. Only 2,000 bottles produced. (Drink between 2024 - 2039)Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThis is an outstanding set of new releases from I Fabbri. The organic 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione opens to medium-dark richness and a more elaborate bouquet composed of dark fruit, spice and earthy iris root. This vintage naturally produced good density and richness in Sangiovese grapes, and indeed, this wine is compact, firm and nicely put together. There are dark mineral tones on the close with some spicy white pepper too. I love the streamlined feel of this wine and enjoy its very long finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione would be a good wine in any other setting, but here, the oak is overpowering. Black cherry, tobacco, spice, cedar and strong torrefaction a bound. The 2018 is still a very good wine, but it could have been more. Perhaps a lot more.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2019 Fuligni Brunello Riserva is drop-dead gorgeous. Made with the oldest estate vines, it opens with enticing scents of pine forest, violet, eucalyptus, juniper, new leather and dark exotic spice. Boasting intensity and finesse, the delicious, radiant palate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice, black tea and baking spice set against enveloping, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity provides balance and the promise of great longevity. An absolutely thrilling wine. Drink 2029–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a seductress, containing an array of cinnamon, clove, allspice, black cherry and hints of bay. It sweeps across the palate with a radiant and classic feel, with vividly ripe red fruits and sweet spices perfectly guided by a core of brilliant acidity. Its minerality comes through in the finish, tactile and saline in form. A web of fine-grained tannins wrap the senses with youthful poise, nuances of cedar and inner rose. The 2019 is spellbinding and built for the cellar. What a beauty.Vinous Media | 97 VMFuligni’s last Riserva was the 2016 vintage, and this 2019 absolutely lives up to the estate’s rigorous standards for bottling only in the best years. Gorgeous aromatics of cherry, florals, wood and some sottobosco emphasise its depth but also its vitality. The vibrant cherry and dark berry flavours are energetic and accomplished, and the intense, bright and long palate favours poise over muscularity. Superb.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECDried-berry, orange-peel and flower aromas follow through to a medium body with ultrafine tannins that blend nicely into the wine, delivering energy and length. Lovely ripe fruit with a juicy and flavorful finish. A classic and wonderfully proportioned young Brunello. Drinkable but better after 2026 and beyond.James Suckling | 97 JSFuligni’s 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a sultry and savory side with medium-grained tannins and extra textural buffering that surrounds a core of dark blackberry fruit. The alcohol content is high at 15%, but this full-bodied vintage does a very good job of covering up those excesses. This Riserva closes with hints of root beer and sauna wood.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe core of sweet, ripe black cherry, blackberry, tamarind, earth and tar aromas and flavors is swallowed up by a wall of tannins in this wild, muscular red. Will require time to find its balance; however, even at this stage, everything converges on the long, complex finish. Best from 2029 through 2047.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The Pinino 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows medium-dark concentration and classic Sangiovese aromas of blackcurrant, cigar ash and grilled herb. There is a floral element with pressed violet or wild rose that comes though nicely in this vintage. The oak tannins feel dry, and the wine shows mid-weight concentration to close. Exactly 8,610 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens in the glass with a delicate blend of dried flowers, orange zest and raspberries. It’s cool-toned and pliant with silken waves of ripe red fruits and savory herbal tones that resonate, all guided by brisk activity. This finishes classically dry with silty tannins and a bitter twang of salted licorice.Vinous Media | 91 VMAromas of mulberries, violets, walnuts, and cloves with underlying roasted savory herb characters. Full-bodied. Chewy and sturdy tannins, yet this is a tensioned young red. Needs a little more in the center palate but still outstanding. Better after 2028.James Suckling | 91 JS

The Altesino 2019 Brunello di Montalcino boasts a rich and savory side that this wine wears very well. There is a beautiful level of dark fruit that folds into the wine’s velvety texture. Blackberry and plum envelop the palate, adding elegant full-bodied volume and fine tannins along the way. The wine is aged in traditional Slavonian casks, and production reaches 110,000 bottles annually (which is very ambitious considering this level of quality).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA dark ruby color in the glass, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a beguiling blend of dusty earth, crushed rocks, savory herbs and dried roses. This is racy and sleek, with vividly ripe wild berry fruits elevated by orange and sage, all guided by vibrant acidity. Grippy tannins take control through the finish, yet the mouth is left watering for more as a bitter licorice tinge and dark chocolate adds a crunchy sensation.Vinous Media | 94 VMA medium-bodied red with pretty plum and berry aromas and flavors. Fine tannins and a fresh finish. Very fine and focused. Not the most structured but this is all about finesse and polish. Drinkable but better in two or three years.James Suckling | 93 JSPlum, fragrant blue flower, exotic brown spice and crushed mint are just some of the aromas you’ll find on the polished and perfumed 2019 Brunello from Altesino. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate features ripe black cherry, blood orange and licorice before closing on a hint of almond liqueur. Velvety tannins and fresh acidity provide seamless support. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a spice box of a wine, opening with a burst of camphor and dried flowers, giving way to crushed blackberries, sage and cloves. This is surprisingly energetic and racy in style. Vibrant acidity propels depths of dark red fruits and inner floral as salty minerals saturate. The 2019 finishes structured and long yet still lively, leaving violet inner florals and hints of currant to taper off slowly. The combination of power, depth and energy makes this impossible to ignore.Vinous Media | 95 VMTo the northwest of the town of Montalcino, Pertimali’s 12 hectares extend over a single block, surrounding the Montosoli hill. Despite a relatively cool microclimate, the limestone-rich clay and estate’s old clones yield a vigorous, muscular Brunello. Picked at the beginning of October, the intensely savoury 2019 wafts with iron, sage and bay leaf. The ripe brawny palate is packed with dry, assertive tannins backed up by sweet black cherry and spiced currants. Acidity is brisk. A rustic rather than elegant offering. Ageing is in Slavonian oak casks of 30 hectolitres.Decanter | 90 DEC

Smooth and delicious, the 2019 Podere Le Ripi Cielo d’Ulisse has captivating aromas of violet, ripe plum, exotic spice, new leather and a whiff of truffle. Full-bodied and enveloping, the palate shows ripe black cherry, raspberry compote, licorice, blood orange and tobacco alongside a backbone of tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced while a salty note lingers on the close. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KODark and intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Cielo d’Ulisse entices with a burst of exotic spice, zests of tangerine, cedar shavings and rum-soaked cherries. This is cool-toned and racy in style, with crisp wild berry fruits enhanced by vibrant acidity. Violet inner florals arch across the palate. This maintains momentum even as crunchy tannins descend upon the senses, leaving a stain of tart cranberry and orange slowly fading. I expect that three to five years of cellaring will reveal a Brunello of boundless energy. The Cielo d’Ulisse is a single vineyard wine that hails from vineyards in the extreme southwest of Montalcino.Vinous Media | 94 VM

he Lisini 2019 Brunello is compelling, starting with its captivating aromas of fragrant blue flower, hay, perfumed berry, dark exotic spice, new leather and aromatic herb. It’s also delicious, delivering a great depth of flavors including juicy Morello cherry, raspberry croissant, licorice and crushed mint before a blood orange close. A backbone of velvety tannins provides seamless support while fresh acidity keeps it vibrant and balanced. What a gorgeous wine and the best Brunello I’ve had so far from this historic estate. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOMedicinal blackberries, sweet sage, stone dust and candied oranges define the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is juicy and vibrant with violet and lavender-tinged wild berry fruits and chalky mineral tones that form a saturation of minerality toward the close. A web of fine-grained tannins resonates as the 2019 finishes long and staining yet feels only lightly structured. Salted licorice suggestions linger on. This is a classy southern Montalcino Brunello from Lisini.Vinous Media | 94 VMA sleek and structured red with black cherry, cedar and spice aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and a chewy finish. Integrated and flexing. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe Lisini 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has a dark and spicy bouquet with prune, cardamom, asphalt and wet stone. The wine is quite developed, and for that reason, I wouldn’t suggest a very long drinking window. There is cola and dried rosemary sprig at the back. This is a dark Brunello with concentrated fruit to drink in the medium term. Production is 40,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Packed with vivid black cherry, black currant and plum fruit, as well as iron, sanguine and tobacco accents, this red shows some power and tension, but also grace and balance. The lingering aftertaste features bright, ripe fruit and wild herbs. Best from 2027 through 2043. 2,000 cases made, 680 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSBeautiful fresh fruit with crushed cherries, orange peel and flowers. Pure. Full-bodied with round and juicy fruit and a long, creamy finish. Flamboyant and beautiful with velvety and creamy tannins that provide a wonderful texture. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Siro Pacenti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli is heavily marked by an oak tone that sits front and center with whiffs of campfire ash or freshly split firewood. The wine shows rock-solid concentration and a level of phenolic extraction that you don’t easily find in Montalcino, unless you make it your mission. The tannins are bitter and grippy, and the oak tannins overshadow the fruit tannins at this very young stage in the wine’s life. The alcohol content is a very high 15.5%. Having said all that, 2019 does offer an excellent core of dark fruit, and it has the elements, and the freshness, for long aging. If you love the wines of Siro Pacenti, then you know these wines need more bottle age. Production is 24,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPA beguiling blend of mint, cedar and spiced orange slowly gives way to dried strawberries as the spicy and seductive 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Pelagrilli blossoms in the glass. Silky and round, it flows across the palate with a dense wave of ripe red and black fruits complicated by a bitter bite of clove and dark chocolate. It finishes long and inward, structured with sweet tannins as echoes of violet and lavender fade. I can really feel the heavy clay soils in this rendition of Pelagrilli, as they add a weight and plush feeling, yet still, the energy of the vintage shines through.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Black cherries, black bark, blackberries and lavender. Medium- to full-bodied with juicy and polished tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Needs four or five years to open and come together. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino pulls the taster close to take in its understated bouquet of dried roses, cedar shavings and incense. It’s soft and supple with depths of tart wild berry fruit guided by brisk acidity as hints of orange form along with a coating of fine tannins toward the close. This finishes classically dry and with admirable length, as grippy tannins pinch at the cheeks and a licorice tinge slowly fades. I’m happy to say I’m finding more energy and liveliness in the 2019 versus past vintages.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe 2019 Castelgiocondo Brunello has balsamic aromas of camphor that mingle with leather, forest floor, spice and hazelnut. Full-bodied and linear, the palate features coconut, roasted coffee bean, licorice and a hint of blood orange but it’s shy on fruit richness. Tightly woven, close-grained tannins provide the backbone and a drying finish. Drink 2028–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 90 KO

Lots of bark, forest flowers, black cherries, blackberries and baking spices in the nose. Full-bodied with layers of gorgeous tannins that coat the mouth and give an enticing silky texture that is irresistible. Juicy finish. From organically grown grapes. So beautifully already, but even better in two or three years and beyond.James Suckling | 97 JSThe compelling San Polino 2019 Helichrysum shows even more depth than the straight Brunello and more complex aromas including new leather, blue flower, cured meat, cedar, wild herb, exotic brown spice and hazelnut. Made from the estate’s highest vineyards, it’s focused and full-bodied, featuring dried cherry, blood orange, licorice and saline mineral notes. Firm, tightly-woven tannins provide the backbone while bright acidity provides energy and balance. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOA cooling, mentholated freshness introduces the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum as black cherry, clove and dusty rose aromas evolve in the glass. This is a model of both purity and elegance, with textures of pure silk and depths of ripe wild berry fruits that are carried by a wave of vibrant acidity. The 2019 finishes incredibly long, structured and classically dry, yet still fresh, leaving a saturation of red plum and licorice under an inner floral air. The depth and concentration here are off the charts, as the Helichrysum holds its power in reserve. Be patient with this one. In a word, fantastic.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Aromas of cherries, cacao and dried flowers follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a fresh and savory finish. Better in a year or two.James Suckling | 93 JS

The Castello Romitorio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta reaches a whole other level of intensity and brilliance with dark fruit, blackberry, an etched mineral quality, petrichor and wet slate that gives this wine an incredibly etched and lively presentation. The tannins are velvety and perfectly match the generous texture of this beautiful Sangiovese. Only later, you start to notice the delicate tones of purple flower and iris root that give this wine such an elegant finish. This is a cellar keeper. There are 9,000 bottles of this wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta tempts the imagination with a burst of mentholated herbs that give way to sweet violet florals, crushed blackberries and mint. This is deeply textural, nearly creamy in feel, with a core of vibrant acidity to balance as a wave of ripe red and traces of blue fruit flood the palate. Its minerality comes through the finish, mingling with edgy tannins, tart cranberry and orange, yet the mouth is left watering for more. This truly seductive rendition of Filo di Seta will surely win many hearts. While more accessible out of the gate, in the context of how austere it can often be, the balance here guarantees a long and beautiful evolution over time.Vinous Media | 96+ VMBlack cherries, plums and floral notes with subtle, underlying citrus character. Full-bodied and structured. Chewy yet fine-grained tannins. Healthy and vibrant. Persistent length and depth. Give it more time to soften. Better after 2028.James Suckling | 94 JS

So floral and fresh with rose stem, sandalwood and orange blossom. Cherries, too. Full-bodied yet reserved and held back with creamy fine tannins and a beautiful finish. Shows brightness and finesse. Silky texture. One of the best I have had from here. A Brunello that emphasizes purity of fruit. Give this three to four years more. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 98 JSThe Cerbaia 2019 Brunello is utterly delicious. It opens with heady aromas of blue flower, wild herb and camphor but really opens up on the smooth, savory palate, delivering juicy black cherry, blackberry, blood orange, truffle and tobacco alongside tightly woven, velvety tannins. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is earthy and savory in the best possible way with an almost rustic, yet not quite, blend of old cedar spice box and dried roses elevated by orange zest and bright cherries. This is wonderfully pure and silky, with a measured inner sweetness and masses of ripe red and blue fruits that swirl throughout. Juicy acidity maintains a lovely energy as the 2019 finishes long and staining. Fine-grained tannins saturate, and a resonance of tart cranberry puckers the cheeks. This energetic and sleek Brunello from Cerbaia will require minimal cellaring to show its best.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Pretty pure fruit to this with black cherry, black berry and light chocolate aromas. The palate is full and focused with very polished tannins and a long, long finish. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSThe Caparzo 2019 Brunello di Montalcino offers lively aromas of cherry cola, forest berry and dried cranberry that really pop on the bouquet. The dimension and latitude of the wine is impressive, especially in terms of mouthfeel, and with this bottle you’re set for near and medium-term drinking. However, what works best in my opinion is the wine’s balanced and much-needed freshness. You get great quality over an ambitious release of 160,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly in the glass, yet it is worth the wait as a dusty blend of dried flowers, cedar shavings, wild strawberries, and spice emerges over time. It’s silky and enveloping with fresh acidity and pretty wild berry fruits that gain in sweetness as they travel across the palate. It finishes long and staining yet still lively and spry, leaving a coating of fine tannins and licorice hints that resonate under an air of violet inner florals. The 2019 is a lovely interpretation of northern Montalcino fruit.Vinous Media | 93 VMDelicate aromas suggesting graphite, crushed mint and iris take shape on the 2019 Brunello from Caparzo. Smooth and sleek, the linear palate features juicy Morello cherry, raspberry, star anise and the same graphite nose as the nose. Polished tannins offer lithe support. It’s already surprisingly accessible but will also offer another decade of pleasure. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

Made with organically farmed grapes, the Collosorbo 2019 Brunello has inviting aromas of plum, new leather, lavender and Mediterranean scrub. On the concentrated, velvety palate, tightly knit, close-grained tannins envelop black cherry extract, liquor soaked prune, licorice and tobacco before a mocha finish. It’s delicious but also rather one-dimensional. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet that blends savory herbs and worn leather with crushed wild berries. It’s softly textured and round, with a pretty inner sweetness and juicy red fruits cascading under rosy inner florals. The 2019 tapers off long and gently tannic, as a bump of residual acidity maintains an energetic feel.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Dusty violets, lavender and cloves accentuate dried black cherries as the dramatic 2019 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up from the glass. This is impossible to ignore, bursting with energy as depths of ripe red fruits, chalky minerals and exotic spices saturate all they touch, balanced by textures of pure silk. The 2019 finishes with fantastic length and concentration, leaving a staining of tart blackberry and hints of orange that curl the tongue as crunchy tannins tug at the palate. It’s rare to see such a combination of vibrancy and power. Canalicchio di Sopra nailed it in 2019. Wow.Vinous Media | 96 VMAfter excellent showings from the 2018 vintage, Canalicchio di Sopra follows up with an impressive trio of 2019s. There is also a highly promising Riserva waiting in the wings... In the meantime, the current releases kick off with the estate Brunello, which is assembled from vines that are at least a decade old. It’s a model of freshness and energy, backed by substance and staying power. Aromas of mint, lavender and tobacco lead to a radiant core of warm stone and red currants. The tannins are direct and linear, giving a firm grip to the dense fruit. Bitter citrus to finish.Decanter | 95 DECWith a hint of candied cherry, grenadine or Shirley Temple, the Canalicchio di Sopra 2019 Brunello di Montalcino reveals purple blossom, dried flower, cough drop and balsam herb. The wine is very nicely stitched together with integrated oak that comes through in a structural way but not too much on the bouquet. The tannins do feel dry on the mid-palate, but they remain fine and tight. The alcohol is a bit high in this vintage at 15%. Production is 47,321 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPBlack cherry, black berry, and lead pencil on the nose. Some fresh bark too. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Linear tannins. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 94 JSNew leather, camphor, forest floor and exotic brown spice aromas lead the nose on the robust, savory 2019 Brunello from Canalicchio. This is a big, bold red, delivering liquor-soaked prune, succulent black cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside a backbone of firm, tightly woven tannins. You’ll also feel the warmth of alcohol on the close. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

A mentholated freshness introduces the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino, as a vibrant wave of crushed cherries, mint leaf, clove and dusty roses make up its absolutely gorgeous bouquet. This is silky and enveloping yet lifted and full of energy, with crunchy red berry fruits that leave a crackle of primary concentration toward the close. It finishes pretty saline and spicy in character, leaving edgy tannins to mingle with a residual bump of acidity that maintains a wonderfully fresh sensation as tart cranberry notes fade. This is one of the most exciting young renditions of Voliero I have ever tasted. It captivates with its precision and spry personality while holding depths of complexity in reserve. Wow.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe Voliero 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has ripe cherry fruit and blackberry, with soft and ripe layering throughout. This wine shows the rich and plump side of 2019, a vintage that offers more concentration than average. Dark fruit flavors cede to spice, earth and toasted chestnut husk. This wine shows solid, chalky tannins. Some 7,600 bottles (and larger formats) were made, and they’re almost ready straight out of the gate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPAromas of dried fruits, figs and tobacco leaves with an underlying nutty note. Refreshing acidity. Medium to full-bodied. Savory yet succulent finish. Better after 2026.James Suckling | 93 JS

Alessandro Mori’s wines are easy to spot in a blind tasting thanks to the soaring intensity and vibrant Sangiovese aromas they display. They are truly one of a kind. A wine that sees a relatively short and hot fermentation, the Il Marroneto 2019 Brunello di Montalcino respects local winemaking tradition and remains true in spirit. The steep verticality of the bouquet evokes almost-carbonic or lifted aromas of bright cherry, strawberry shortcake, lilac and heritage rose. You get straight to the heart of Sangiovese. The tannins are extremely fine and powdery and the freshness of the fruit is beautifully intact. This wine really pops in 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPIacopo Mori described the 2019 vintage as ‘perfect, no disease...lots of fantastic grapes,’ when he visited Decanter in December 2023. Indeed, 2019 is looking superb across the board. Il Marroneto’s Brunello di Montalcino 2019 has the most incredible scent; an enticing waft of aromatic cherry and fragrant violets. In the mouth it’s supremely precise, with a silky texture and sweet red fruits. Intense, chiselled and sapid, there’s a bewitching pureness and delicacy here. Delicious.Decanter | 97 DECA cascade of bright cherry, rose buds, lavender and cedary spice wafts up from the whimsically perfumed 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is surprisingly juicy yet quite complex, with hints of zesty orange and vibrant acidity that add tremendous energy as crisp clove-inflected red fruits drench the senses. It finishes with cheek-puckering tannins, yet they are sweet and round. The 2019 tapers off spicy and fresh, leaving lingering mint, violets and sweet herbal tea notes. Don’t be fooled by its energy and approachability; the 2019 holds a massive amount of power in reserve. This is a spell-binding Brunello from Il Marroneto.Vinous Media | 95 VMThere is nothing shy about the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino at this initial tasting from the barrel, and it feels nearly complete at this youthful stage. It is generous and jumps from the glass with explosive fruit of blackberry, cassis, crushed violets, and smoky earth. Full-bodied, with a polished and rounded texture, it offers ripe, velvety tannins and is forward, with a sunny and ripe profile. At this point, it feels as if this wine will be more accessible early on, although with significant aging potential.Jeb Dunnuck | 94-97 JD

The Mastrojanni 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has a pretty bouquet with dark fruit and something exotic that recalls camphor ash, wood fire ash, garrigue and dried herb. It is rich and evenly concentrated with fine chalk on the tannins and good phenolic ripeness (with no green bitterness). A great food pairing is grilled game or the French magret de canard. This straight village bottling does a great job, and it’s ultimately more accessible than many of its peers. Production is an ample 77,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAromas of toasted nut, forest floor, new leather and blueberry tart take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and boasting a weightless concentration, the enveloping palate doles out fleshy black cherry, blood orange, licorice and hazelnut along with a hint of chocolate covered mint. Tightly-woven, close-grained tannins provide support. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KODeep red berry fruits, sweet spice, cinnamon and cloves introduce the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is silky to the core, with depths of red fruit and spice, all guided by juicy acidity. Licorice and clove combine with tart raspberry as the 2019 finishes surprisingly fresh and only lightly structured.Vinous Media | 93 VMIn November 2022, Francesco Illy sold his stakes in the family’s coffee empire and bought out his siblings’ shares of Mastrojanni. Along with the latter, he also owns the nearby Podere Le Ripi. While the two estates are separately run, both are now farmed according to organic and biodynamic tenets. Pretty yet delicate in fragrances, the nose expands gradually with jasmine, tobacco and flinty stone. Midweight with a richness of red cherry and long, fine tannins. But this finishes rather briskly. Perhaps another year in bottle will coax out more expression.Decanter | 91 DEC

Iris, lavender, wild berry, camphor and exotic spice are just some of the aromas you’ll find on the fragrant 2019 Vigna Loreto. Taking over where the palate leaves off, it delivers ripe black cherry, blackberry, licorice and tobacco alongside brooding, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity lends youthful tension. Exemplifying the vintage, this is a fantastic, age-worthy Brunello that needs time to come around. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOShowing cracked white pepper and wet slate, this wine definitely brings you to a clear sense of place. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto is precise and delineated, but as the wine opens, you get interludes of ripe fruit, blackcurrant and oak spice. The wine is faceted with many layers and angles. Bright cherry sits on the palate with good length leading to fine, chalky tannins. You get an authentic taste of Montalcino in this wine. I prefer the Vigna Loreto this year to the more expensive Vigna Schiena d’Asino (from 2018). This is a 9,500-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPBlackberries, menthol, sage, stone dust and cloves define the youthfully restrained 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto. This flows across the palate with ease, silky with depths of ripe raspberry and sour cherry as fine-grained tannins saturate toward the close. It finishes spicy and long, structured yet lively while stimulating the imagination with its future potential. Hints of cocoa, lavender and current leaf linger, seeming to last for well over a minute. Color me impressed.Vinous Media | 96 VMOverlooking the Orcia river, the southeast facing Loreto vineyard rises 400 metres high. Tasted next to the estate Brunello, it definitely demonstrates greater stage presence. Intense plum and cherry are interlaced with exotic spice, chinotto and sweet herbs. The vintage’s inner mouth perfumes are at the fore, elevating compact fruit. Gravelly-textured tannins bolster the whole; yet these are more elegant than potent. Ends with a liquorice twist. While this should unwind gracefully, I do not believe this will be among the vintage’s longest-lived wines.Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dark and dusty bouquet as dried flowers and crushed stone give way to red currants. It’s soft textured with tactile mineral tones up front, adding a crunchy character to the tart wild berry fruits within. The 2019 finishes long and staining, leaving a tinge of balsamic spice and a liquid stone sensation that mellows over a bed of fine tannins. This is a brighter style for Mocali, and I like it quite a bit.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe Mocali 2019 Brunello opens with earthy, enticing aromas of new leather, blue flower, baked plum and forest floor. On the enveloping palate, tightly woven, close-grained tannins accompany fleshy black cherry, licorice, orange rind and nutmeg before a firm finish. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KOThis is a richly textured Sangiovese with sweet plum, cooked cherry, spice and crème de cassis. The Mocali 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine focused mostly on texture and mouthfeel. It imparts nice weight to the palate with fine, chalky tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPStarts with black cherries, violets and bark, followed by a hint of crushed rock. Medium-bodied with stringent tannins. Still tight and a little lean now, this needs more time to soften. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 92 JS

A ripe red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is expressive of its place, with warming notes of licorice, black cherries, anise, cedar, and dark soil lifting from the glass. As it opens, it becomes purer in its fruit profile, shining through beautifully. Full-bodied, with ripe tannins and a savory slanting profile, notes of espresso and mocha float across the palate, filling it with purity of fruit and lovely concentration through its long finish. It’s a fantastic Brunello with a warming richness that can stand up to hearty winter foods and will be best enjoyed over the next 15 years. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe Uccelliera 2019 Brunello di Montalcino offers ripe fruit, a note of cooked blackberry and pomegranate juice. Along with oak spice and dried bay leaf, there is a spot of creaminess on the mid-palate that recalls cheese rind or aged chèvre with a crust of black pepper and thyme. That note blows off, however, and the wine returns to dried cherry with a medicinal or herbal twist. There’s a lot going on. The wine needs more time in bottle to address the fine, chalky tannins. It is elegant now but poised to improve. Production is 36,000 bottles plus larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPBrooding yet intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino bursts from the glass with a wave of autumnal spices, crushed cherries, cedar shavings and steeped plums lifted by pine hints. This is deeply textural, elegant and refined, with a dense wave of ripe wild berry fruits, all guided by vibrant acidity, offset by oranges and balsam herbs. It finishes grippy and extended with a black hole of tension and a sweet and sour sensation that lingers on and on as crunchy tannins resonate throughout. The 2019 is youthfully backward today, yet there’s a balance that can’t be denied, especially as I watched it open up over twenty-four hours. This is a total pleasure to taste. Bury the 2019 deep in the cellar.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromas of scorched earth and truffle mingle with blue flower, leather and pipe tobacco on the bold 2019 Brunello from Uccelliera. It’s full-bodied and concentrated but also has great energy, delivering fleshy raspberry, black cherry extract, dried mint and licorice before a nutty close. Tightly wound, close-grained tannins provide firm support while bright acidity keeps it vibrant and balanced. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOPerfumed and attractive with black-cherry and berry aromas, as well as lavender and rosemary flowers. Medium body with firm tannins and a juicy finish. Needs bottle age to soften. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSHaving tasted its component parts from barrel in 2021, I was fascinated to see how Uccelliera’s Brunello came together. Andrea Cortonesi assembles this from a handful of plots all located in the denomination’s southeastern corner. It opens with fragrances redolent of cedar and pine forest, undergrowth and leather. Full and vigorous, the palate is foursquare rather than round. A compact core of dark cherry is surrounded by chewy, generously extracted tannins. A touch of dryness from wood pokes through. Nevertheless, this feels very genuine and underlying acidity gives a lightening effect.Decanter | 93 DEC