Sangiovese Wines

wines

One of the most positive surprises of my tastings this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. As an aside, readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick up this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPOne of the great surprises of my tasting this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. Readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future.Vinous Media | 95 VMRich, decadent aromas of blackberry and dried rose, with hints of prune. Full-bodied, with delicious fruit, round tannins and a long finish. Layered and beautiful. Best after 2010. 2,700 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is slow to open and I spent a good amount of extra time with this wine as a result. It was well worth the wait. The intensity inches up in baby steps. With time, the wine is splendent and focused with a very direct and impactful delivery of aromas. It also shows a specifically floral personality with dried rose petal or blue violet that I did not recognize in most of the other Brunellos from this classic vintage. There is power and determination behind those feminine aromas. The wine makes a lasting impression in the mouth, thanks to the textual tightness of its tannins and the refreshing crispness of the acidity. The Riserva sees fruit sourced from Il Greppo’s oldest vines (25-years-old and more) and the wine ages in traditional oak casks for three years. Some 13,600 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

Aromas of juniper, rosemary, thyme and Szechuan peppercorn segue to strawberry, cherry and rose hip flavors in this elegant red. Intense and balanced, with the structure to develop over the next two decades. Shows excellent depth and length. Best from 2022 through 2043. 833 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSCompared to 2014, the 2013 vintage was a breeze from a farming and winemaking point of view. A relatively stress free growing season tends to transmit more clarity and intensity to the finished product. That's the impression I get when I taste the savory, rich and sophisticated 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Some 10,000 bottles were released. This wine delivers thick ripeness with bold cherry aromas that are folded into spice, leather and tangy black licorice. This wine achieves a higher level of aromatic intensity compared to the elegant Altesino 2014 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli (which I actually preferred at this tasting). However, my impression is that this riserva from 2013 will ultimately offer a more fruitful and interesting bottle evolution five to ten years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis offers an array of light and bright cassis and other blue-fruit notes with wild herbs and raspberry leaf. Then, a smooth, fresh and approachable palate carries a supple, smooth and velvety core on fine, even tannins. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSLinear and made in a focused style, this fragrant red has aromas of camphor, rose, thyme and new leather. The racy palate offers sour cherry, star anise, menthol and wild herb set against taut fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Stunning, showing black cherry, blackberry, plum, leather, earth and iron aromas and flavors that work in tandem with the supple texture and dense structure. This has a good feel, between its level of ripe fruit and firm tannins, to age well. Excellent length. Best from 2026 through 2045. 1,220 cases made, 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThis is very tight and linear and long. It shows so much black truffle, dark cherry and wet earth character with some bark. Full-bodied yet tight and polished with firm tannins that persistently drive the length of the palate. Great aging potential here. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 97 JSThe Castello Banfi 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio alle Mura pours from the bottle with an inky dark appearance and rich color concentration. The full-bodied Brunello takes the Banfi philosophy (based on research and mapping to understand the unique qualities of each growing site in this sprawling property on the southern side of the appellation) to heart. The fruit selected here aspires to extract, richness and all the other qualities associated with your quintessential Sangiovese Riserva. Careful work in the winery has helped to chisel out blackberry, spice, cherry, leather and baked clay. Ample doses of cola, licorice and tar appear on the very long and powerful finish in this 14,638-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe deep, rich 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio alle Mura wafts up with an air of crushed ashen stone and hints of graphite before giving way to black cherry, minty herbs and hints of shaved cedar. This is elegant yet savory in character, with velvety textures ushering in mineral-tinged black fruits and exotic spices. The finish is remarkably long and structured, yet the tannins are refined, and hints of sour citrus combine with a twang of tart red currants under an air of tobacco. This is an imposing and powerful Riserva Poggio alle Mura that’s just begging for a long stay in the cellar.Vinous Media | 93+ VMAromas of underbrush, toasted nut, violet and eucalyptus mingle with a whiff of tobacco. The tobacco note follows through to the full-bodied, velvety palate, along with prune, dried cherry and licorice. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide support. Drink 2024–2031. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Perfumed with flowers, dark fruits and orange peel on the nose. Full-bodied with firm and integrated tannins that are chewy yet polished and focused. Turns muscular and toned at the end. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSHere is Castello Banfi’s top-shelf wine from an iconic vintage. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro shows a dark ruby or garnet appearance. The wine is impeccably balanced, aromatic and powerful all at the same time. The bouquet presents etched aromas of wild berry fruit and cherry, and there is a good amount of earth, wild rose and grilled herb. The wine is broad and long-lasting on the palate (with 15.5% alcohol) for safekeeping in your cellar. Exactly 15,976 bottles were released.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPBanfi was rewarded for waiting out the 100 millimetres of rain that fell mid-September, harvesting ripe, healthy grapes at the end of the month. With the 2016, the estate has deftly balanced the solid, substantial structure of the Poggio all’Oro site with generosity of fruit and depth of expression. Fresh plum and black cherry gain intrigue from coffee, violet, wet soil and cinnamon notes. A concentrated, dense Brunello that carries its proportions effortlessly, this is a credit to the ongoing work at Banfi. Ageing is in 80% large French oak casks and 20% barriques. It will be released September 2022.Decanter | 95 DECBright and elegant, evoking cherry, strawberry, floral, iron and spice aromas and flavors, with wild herbs peeking through on the finish. Shows a dense structure that bodes well for the future, and overall this feels balanced. Best from 2025 through 2043. 1,330 cases made, 70 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro is packed full of hedonistic pleasures. An alluring mix of crushed black cherries, plums, tobacco and mocha with contrasting hints of mint leaf and camphor rises up from the glass. This fills the palate with velvety textures carried over a weighty framework, yet the impression is one of pure elegance, as black-tea-infused red currants come together with nuances of candied citrus and dark inner florals. Tart berries, dusty bitter cacao and a coating of fine tannins are nicely contrasted by a refreshing bump of residual acids, as this tapers off dramatically long. For fans of the style, the 2016 is a gorgeous and balanced representation of deep-south Montalcino terroir. The Poggio all’Oro cru is aged in a blend of 70% French oak casks of 60–90 hectoliters and 30% barriques for 30 months.Vinous Media | 93 VMForest floor, camphor, blue flower and pipe tobacco aromas take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and brawny, the concentrated palate exhibits raisin, prune, licorice and the heat of evident alcohol alongside densely woven, velvety tannins. Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KOForest floor, camphor, blue flower and pipe tobacco aromas take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and brawny, the concentrated palate exhibits raisin, prune, licorice and the heat of evident alcohol alongside densely woven, velvety tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE