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Fragrant, focused and loaded with finesse, this impressive red opens with aromas of iris, red berry, spice and camphor. Elegantly structured and savory, the vibrant palate features juicy raspberry, Morello cherry, star anise and wild mint framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2024–2034.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WELots of plum, ripe strawberry and crushed nutmeg. Hazelnut too. Full-bodied with firm and velvety tannins and a chewy finish. A wine with energy and structure. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 94 JSThe Elvio Cogno 2019 Barbaresco Bordini hits all the right chords, striking at elegance, balance and a transparent approach that highlights the character of the vintage and this vineyard in Neive. This is a medium-bodied wine with polished tannins and a delicate flavor profile focused on wild berry, licorice and crushed stone. Some 10,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2019 Barbaresco Bordini is a very pretty, expressive wine that marries the natural power of this site with a good deal of finesse, a pretty appealing combination in my book. Powerful and yet classic in bearing, the 2019 offers up generous red-fleshed fruit, spice, rose petal, orange peel and dried herbs. The 2019 can be enjoyed today or cellared for a decade plus. Today, it is pretty impressive.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGEnticing aromas of cherry, strawberry, hay, sweet grass and iron mark this smooth, velvety red. Shows ample structure, yet this is harmonious overall, with a beam of pure cherry lingering. Best from 2024 through 2038. 830 cases made, 125 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A rich purple in color, the 2021 Barbera D’Alba Pre-Phylloxera comes from 130-year-old vines from a single cask. It is expansive aromatically, with a perfume that offers more spice in its notes of black pepper, blackcurrant liqueur, and lavender, giving it an almost Syrah-like character. A very special wine, it fills the palate with plummy fruit and cleans up with dark minerals. Full-bodied without being weighted, this is a wine with more aging potential, although it is outstanding now. Drink 2023-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFrom one of the oldest vineyards in Italy, and one of the very few in all of Europe that survived Phylloxera, the remarkable Cogno 2021 Barbera d’Alba Pre-Phylloxera offers a rare glimpse of what wines made on their original rootstock can offer. Hailing from a small plot of vines well over one hundred years old, it has balsamic aromas of camphor and new leather that mingle with ripe dark-skinned fruit, violet and tobacco. Full-bodied and boasting a weightless concentration, the savory palate delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange, white pepper and licorice alongside enveloping, refined tannins. Thanks to vines planted 520m above sea level, it also boasts vibrant acidity and energy. What a fantastic wine. Drink or hold through 2031. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOElvio Cogno produce just 1,800 bottles annually of this Barbera d’Alba, made from 0.25ha of 140-year-old vines in Berri near La Morra, on chalky, sandy soils. Like the ‘standard’ Barbera d’Alba, it’s vinified in stainless steel and aged in Slavonian oak casks for 12 months, yet here the result is more complex and more concentrated: pure hedgerow berry and violet scents adorn a palate full of sweet, ripe black cherry, with notes of cream, coffee and tar in the background. The finish is long and freshly balsamic, carrying more of that gorgeous violet-infused fruit.Decanter | 94 DEC