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A driven and serious DP with aromas of chalk, biscuits, apricot stones and lemons. Some spice and dried flowers, too. So sleek and sophisticated. Elegant. Yet, it’s long and powerful, with a sharp minerality. Tight and precise. Reminds me of bottles from the 1980s, such as 1988. It really takes off. Disgorged October 2021. Drinkable on release in January 2023, but better in a couple of years. A DP for the cellar.James Suckling | 98 JSVivid acidity and a chalky underpinning make a crystalline frame for finely detailed notes of ripe melon, mandarin orange, toasted brioche and candied ginger in this harmonious Champagne, which is expressive and expansive on the palate, but with a sense of finesse and restraint. Long and creamy on the mineral-laced finish. Drink now through 2037.Wine Spectator | 96 WSDisgorged in October last year, the 2013 Dom Pérignon is a lovely wine, defined by the long, cool growing season. Offering up aromas of crisp stone fruit, tangerine oil, buttered toast, pear, almonds and clear honey, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with bright acids and a pillowy, enveloping profile, concluding with a long, saline finish. Vincent Chaperon recalls that shatter at fruit set moderated yields and that a drying east wind in the weeks before harvest helped to maintain the good sanitation necessary to wait to pick at full maturity.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThe 2013 Dom Pérignon is quite delicate and understated. It reminds me of the 2004, but with a bit more mid-palate richness and a bit less energy. Apricot, tangerine peel, white flowers, jasmine, mint and light honeyed notes all meld together. There’s lovely vinous intensity as well as a feeling of openness that make the 2013 a delight to taste today. The 2013 doesn’t look to be an epic DP, but it sure is delicious right now.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Morandina is dark and youthfully understated in the glass, as crushed rose petals and stone dust give way to red currants. This is silky-smooth, nearly velvety in feel, with masses of mineral-tinged black cherry and spice contrasted by a twang of sour citrus. The 2016 finishes with outstanding length and depth yet is also remarkably fresh, leaving hints of hard red candy and the slightest touch of bitter cocoa. The Amarone of Prà is always so unique but in the best possible way. The 2016 is a total gem but needs cellaring to come fully into focus.Vinous Media | 96+ VMA savory and complex expression of Amarone with some dried cherries, red dates, stewed herbs, orange peel, tobacco and white pepper. Some bold green peppercorn, too. A svelte delivery of Amarone with a medium body, showing tobacco, cedar and chocolate on the palate. Long, cedary finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSInspired by Dal Forno, renowned Soave producer Graziano Prà purchased 13 hectares high up in eastern Valpolicella’s Mezzane Valley in 2001. The previously unplanted parcel is protected by forest and has been farmed organically from the start. A relatively restrained nose shows dried garden herbs with plum and floral nuances. On the palate, fig and prune flavours are laced with cigar smoke. Velvety, malleable tannins enfold the easy to please package and the finish is bright with a pleasantly bitter edge.Decanter | 93 DECThis elegant red is medium- to full-bodied, with creamy tannins providing a fine frame for flavors of brambly red currant and blackberry fruit, pine, orange peel and crushed pink peppercorn. A subtle, savory overtone of cured tobacco and smoky bacon fat echoes on the fresh finish. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. Drink now through 2030. 833 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The Tua Rita 2018 Syrah Per Sempre is another monumental achievement from this iconic Tuscan estate. Stefano Frascolla and his team have slouched into a very cozy and comfortable relationship with the Syrah grape, and this wine registers marked exuberance, generosity and quality with each vintage that I taste. I had previewed a sample of this 3,500-bottle release earlier in the year but did not give the wine a definitive score. Now on the market, Per Sempre boasts solid footing, rich density, ample fruitiness and pretty notes of spice and charred meat, thanks to 17 months in new French oak. The tannins are especially well managed, soft and integrated.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2018 Per Sempre is one of the best examples of this wine I have tasted. The combination of freshness and elegance of the 2018 vintage combined with the powerful expression of Tua Rita’s Syrah has created something magical: it has a dense, complex nose with liquorice, blackberry, flint, smoke and roasted meat notes. Big, bold flavours of blackberries, wood smoke and liquorice lead to a juicy, bright, savoury finish. It’s concentrated but still manages to be light on its feet.Decanter | 97 DECAromas of blue fruit, white pepper, dried flowers and stone. It’s full-bodied and grows on the palate, showing blue fruit, black tea leaves and chocolate. Bitter orange at the end. This is a baby. Solid and tight. Needs two or three years to come together.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Boisrenard is a Grenache-dominated field blend (80%) that also includes 15 other varieties. Brought up all in foudre, it boasts a dense purple hue to go with a sensational, full-bodied, multi-layered array of red and black currants, toasted spice, peppery garrigue, and new leather-like aromas and flavors. Slightly tighter and more backward than the classic cuvée, this warrants 4-6 years of bottle age and will be incredibly long-lived.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDGreat purity and serious concentration without overt weight. A very powerful, complete, driving style of wine, big in tannin, acid and alcohol with a long finish. Biodynamically-grown Grenache (66%), Syrah (12%) and Mourvèdre (12%), the rest being made up of Clairette Rose, Cinsault, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Terret Noir, Picardan, Picpoul Blanc, Muscardin, Bourboulenc, Picpoul Noir, Vaccarèse, Roussanne, Picpoul Gris, Counoise and Clairette Blanche! Grapes are grown across a variety of soil types in the lieux-dits Beau Renard, Cabrières and Coteau de l’Ange, vinified mostly in tronconic wooden vats, then aged in oak barrels of various sizes and ages, including 5% new oak.Drinking Window 2023 - 2035Decanter | 96 DECSaturated ruby. Red and dark fruit preserves, candied licorice, violet and exotic spices on the expansive nose. Stains the palate with sweet blueberry, cherry cola, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors that become livelier as the wine stretches out. Blends depth and energy with a steady hand and closes impressively long and youthfully chewy, with building tannins and a strong echo of cherry liqueur.Vinous Media | 95 VMRich and ripe, offering an alluring smoky edge throughout. Layers of warmed plum preserve and cherry compote roll through, picking up tobacco and warm earth notes along the way. Drink now through 2034. 188 cases made, 38 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSDeep nose of damson plums and black cherries with subtle spice and tobacco-leaf aromas. Rich and concentrated with a ton of healthy tannins that beautifully support the full body, the mineral acidity lighting up the long finish. From 70 to 100-year-old vines of all the 13 varieties allowed for this appellation. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Boisrenard is 80% Grenache, with the balance a mix of the other permitted varieties. Fermentation took place in wood (including a small proportion of new barrels), with maturation in foudres. Scents of mint and garrigue accent black cherries and plum on the nose, and I thought I detected a hint of charred oak as well (tasted blind). Full-bodied, rich and velvety, this is a thickly textured, concentrated beauty, with a long, mocha-tinged finish. While it could use a year or two to soften, it should drink well for more than a decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93+ RP

The gorgeous 2019 La Gerla Brunello La Pieve opens with balsamic aromas of eucalyptus that mingle with lavender, new leather, tobacco and ripe dark-skinned berry. Smooth to the point of being creamy, it’s also full-bodied and delicious, delivering ripe black plum, raspberry, licorice and nutmeg alongside a backbone of velvety tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it lifted and balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe deep ruby/red 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino La Pieve is generous in its perfume of raspberry coulis, candied roses, sweet Mediterranean herbs, and cedar. Medium to full-bodied, it has good concentration, with angular, snappy acidity, ripe tannins, and a long finish. It’s an impressive wine that deserves time in the cellar. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDPlanted in 1997, La Pieve is a single vineyard in Montalcino’s southeast. The estate waited until the vines were a mature 20 years old before releasing this separate bottling, the first release being the 2017 vintage. This 2019 is the finest thus far. As it emerges from its shell, orange, cedar and liquorice bark rise from the glass. Mellowed and understated in its brambly fruit, it focuses its expression on savoury forest and exotic tea nuances. Full, yet nimbly poised and structured with commanding tannins, the finish is elevated by a salty mineral tang.Decanter | 95 DECIn the bottle with the black label, the La Gerla 2019 Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve reveals a 360-degree bouquet with generous fruit, dark currant, petrichor, wet slate and a mix of rosemary and grilled herb. This wine presents a classic Brunello bouquet that dovetails into medium fruit weight and very fine, grippy tannins. Production is limited to 6,320 bottles this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino La Pieve opens with a mentholated freshness, blending dust rose with crushed stones and dried cherries. This displays silky textures contrasted by cooling acidity and minerals as tart red fruits slowly saturate. The 2019 leaves the palate caked in edgy tannins as it takes on a balsamic tinge and traces of clove slowly fade. La Pieve displays a classic feel yet also a hulking structural core. Bury your bottles deep.Vinous Media | 94 VMWith intensity to the cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit, this red is shaded with elements of tobacco, earth and wild herbs. Dusty tannins and lively acidity provide support, while a mineral component gathers steam on the salty, lingering finish. Best from 2026 through 2043. 1,167 cases made, 740 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSAromas of cherries, mushrooms and bark with some nutmeg. The palate shows plum, peach skin and citrus with some cedar. Medium body. Medium finish. Drink in a year or two.James Suckling | 91 JS

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is fabulous. A deep, potent wine, the 2019 possesses tremendous density, not to mention tons of pedigree. Deep red fruit, white pepper, chalk, blood orange and mint lend notable depth to this powerhouse Cabernet. The tannins are pretty imposing, but there is plenty of fruit to keep things in balance. What a gorgeous, gorgeous wine this is.Vinous Media | 94 VMAromas of mulberries, dark plums, dried herbs, lavender and cedar. Medium-to full-bodied with chewy tannins. Structured, with a fresh, firm finish. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 91 JS

Aromas of menthol, black spice, leather, rose hip and citrus lead the nose on the stunning 2020 Baudana from Luigi Baudana. It’s smooth and delicious, delivering wild raspberry, strawberry compote, blood orange, tobacco and star anise alongside a backbone of polished tannins. Crushed mint lingers on the close while fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Drink 2027–2035. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe deep ruby-hued 2020 Barolo Baudana offers a sweet perfume of candied raspberries, cherry lozenge, crushed flowers, and sweet sage. Medium to full-bodied, it’s ripe and expansive with sweet tannins, it has a fantastic and weightless feel with a buoyant nature, and it’s floral and long on the palate, with a great apricot-noted finish. While it has a wide drinking window, it’s deserving of cellaring. Drink 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDSubtle notes of cherries in their prime, thyme, star anise, incense, and warmed earth gradually emerge, over time, yielding a wine work the wait. On the palate, it is plush at first, but the tannins soon make their presence known, shaping the wine into a honed and chiseled example of classic Nebbiolo. The savory elements work in perfect harmony with the deep core of fruit and mouthwatering acidity, creating a Barolo that can be enjoyed now or cellared for decades. Drink Now - 2045Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEWith fruit from Serralunga d’Alba, the Luigi Baudana 2020 Barolo Baudana is a bold and ripe expression with dark currant, black cherry, sweet orange peel and crushed red rose. Soft, earthy layers appear on the mid-palate with hints of spicy licorice. All of that intensity, with soil, fruit and spice, swells over the palate, giving this wine an impactful character. It is almost ready to drink straight out of the gate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPacked with fruit, this red exudes cherry, strawberry, rose and iron notes, with a hint of wild herbs. Vibrant acidity and fine-grained tannins lend well-meshed support. Harmonious and surprisingly approachable already, but this will improve over the next two decades. Best from 2027 through 2045.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2020 Barolo Baudana opens with a burst of plump, juicy, red-toned fruit. Bright acids and persistent tannins are a reminder we’re in Serralunga. The 2020 is going to need a few years to come together, but it is a relatively accessible wine for this part of the appellation. The purity of the fruit here is lovely. Pretty floral and spice overtones lift the finish effortlessly.Vinous Media | 93 VMAttractive notes of cherries, peaches, red plums and violets on the nose. Juicy and bright, with a medium body and delicious red berry fruit accompanied by fine-grained tannins. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 92 JS

Pure perfection from this talented team, the 2021 Estate Cuvee checks in as 50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Petit Verdot that was raised in 80% new French oak. Absolutely incredible aromatics of crème de cassis, blueberries, violets, ground pepper, and graphite give way to a full-bodied red with a seamless, elegant mouthfeel, ultra-fine tannins, a deep, layered mid-palate, and that rare mix of power and elegance that’s so hard to come by. It shows the pure, layered, elegant style of the vintage, and this beauty offers pleasure today yet will ideally be given 3-4 years in the cellar, and it will evolve for two decades at a minimum.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe 2021 Estate Cuvée (a 20th-anniversary edition) is composed of 50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit Verdot. Its aromas are highly complex and pure! Chocolate-covered cherry and crushed blueberry scents are complemented by wafts of thyme, sage, vanilla, dark spices and savory tones, plus soaring violet perfume. The full-bodied palate is polished and effortlessly balanced, offering powdery tannins, a bright spine of acidity and a tremendously long finish laced with spice and floral perfume. This elegant, expressive blend will be long lived in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPImmediately seductive and perfumed on the nose with aromas of dark cherries, blackberries, cassis, violets, cedar and plenty of sweet oak spices. It’s full-bodied with knit-tight tannins and a velvety texture. Spicy and vibrant with poise. Good vitality with a controlled power all along. Concentrated and full of energy with a generous, peppery and berry-loaded finish. 50% syrah, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 20% petit verdot. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 97 JSThe L’Aventure vineyard is one of the sources of quality fruit in Paso, and this wine is no exception. Aromas of dark, jammy fruit dominate, and the fruit on the palate is equally assertive, with healthy doses of cedar and spice. Tannins are muscular and powdery, which will aid in the ageability – a full-bodied, authoritative Paso wine with quality at the foundation.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2021 Pinot Noir Goldrock Estate is deep, rich and explosive. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, blood orange, menthol, spice and rose petals are all amplified in this dramatic Sonoma Coast Pinot. The complexity and intensity here are simply unreal. Give this time, there’s a lot of wine in the glass.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2021 Pinot Noir Goldrock Estate is a deep, saturated ruby. Fresh aromas of wet rocks, black raspberry, and pressed flowers lift from the glass, with a touch of spice. Medium to full-bodied, it has good structure, with fresh acidity and notes of crunchy red cherry and fresh pine, as well as fine tannins. Its perfume lasts right through to its clean, lifted finish. This is a lovely wine to drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDBeautiful purity of fruit here with dark strawberry, dark cherry and blood orange aromas and flavors that follow through to a medium to full body with firm tannins and a linear and long finish. Lovely now but will improve with a couple of years of bottle age.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2021 Goldrock Estate Pinot Noir is medium ruby-purple in color. Cranberry sauce, redcurrant jelly, and pomegranate notes spring from the glass, followed by hints of cinnamon toast, dark chocolate, and violets. The medium to full-bodied palate has a very fine-grained texture and just enough freshness to frame the intense red berry flavors, finishing long and spicy.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIOffers a vivid, precise display of mulberry puree, along with light violet, hibiscus, anise and blackberry notes. Sleek, with a slight savory ripple at the very end for contrast. Delightfully pure. Drink now through 2029. 1,494 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis wine from the Goldrock Estate is a riper-styled Pinot Noir than the West Sonoma Coast has become known for. It has a gorgeous aromatic profile of sappy blackberries, sous bois, and crumbled violets. The palate is a melange of dark berries framed in smoke, sea salt minerality, tart blackberries, fresh mint, and ripe red cherry flesh mouthfuls. Savoury spices carry the finish with white and green peppercorn and a note of black tea leaf.Decanter | 93 DEC

This wine comes from a 1.5-hectare plot with white soils and 40- to 50-year-old vines. Pajoré tends to produce austere wines with an etched mineral note and without the glossy softness you can get in some of the other parcels. The Sottimano 2021 Barbaresco Pajoré saw submerged-cap fermentation until January 20, 2022, marking one of the longest maceration times to date for this estate. This pretty wine has a ferrous or metallic note coupled with crushed mineral. These shape an angular, almost cubist personality. However, you also get tart cassis and crushed peppercorn. The wine is indeed more austere, and this bodes well for a long aging window. The tannins are grippy and tight. Production is 6,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Barbaresco Pajorè has shut down massively since I tasted it last year. Dried herbs, menthol, incense, game and tobacco infuse the palate with tremendous complexity. Readers will find an austere, classically built Barbaresco for the cellar. Time in the glass brings out the natural breadth and structure of Pajorè. Quite simply, this is an archetype. What a wine.Vinous Media | 96+ VMSo perfumed, the 2021 Pajorè from Sottimano is a stunner, with enticing aromas of mocha, ripe red berry, camphor, violet and forest floor. The intense, full-bodied palate is super savory, delivering succulent raspberry, Marasca cherry, baking spice, star anise and hints of hazelnut before a cool, minty finish. Tightly knit, close-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it balanced and energized. A gorgeous wine. Drink 2028–2036.Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOCherry, raspberry, earth and mineral aromas and flavors highlight this solidly built Barbaresco. Taut and dense yet refined, with a linear profile and excellent length. Best from 2027 through 2043. 600 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA floral and fruit-filled escapade awaits with each sip of this enchanting wine. Enticing aromas transport you to a garden in full bloom, where fresh wild cherries play amidst swirling rose petals and fragrant herbs. On the palate, ripe red fruits mingle with sweet spices, guided fine tannins and lifted acidity that keep each sip lifted and in balance. Drink from 2026 Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Pure, clean orchard and tropical fruits, spice, crushed stone, and white flower notes all emerge from the 2022 Saint Véran, a medium-bodied, clean, incredibly classy, balanced Saint Véran that has good mid-palate density, integrated acidity, and outstanding length.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

The 2023 Pinot Gris Wibtal Sommerberg Grand Cru was picked at 400 meters of elevation, facing south-southeast. The gentlest reduction adds a delicious smoky tinge to the nose with pear and citrus tones in equal measure. The palate, once again, is a little mind-bender, lending Riesling poise, freshness and citric verve to this stony, taut, superbly sleek Pinot Gris. The zestiness on the palate becomes ever more intense, only aided and abetted by its vivid juiciness. The 2023 is delicious and so memorable. (Dry)Vinous Media | 97 VM

From a site within the climat of Les Vaillons, where the vines are planted east to west and the grape skins are never kissed by the sun, Patrick Piuze’s 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Les Roncières has turned out very well. Opening in the glass to reveal a bouquet of beeswax, peach and lemon zest, it is medium-bodied, textural yet racy, with lovely tension and a long, mineral finish. It retains a classically Chablisien profile even in this warm year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPI have never seen another vigneron who bottled their Chablis “Les Roncières” on its own. As this premier cru can also be bottled as Vaillons, most producers choose this direction for labeling of this wine. As I have mentioned before, Pat’s parcel in the les Minots section of Vaillons has a completely different exposition than his vines in Roncières, so the two are bottled separately for a very good reason. The 2023 version is lovely, offering up a complex nose of lemon, pear, a complex base of chalky soil, paraffin, orange peel, a touch of anise and a topnote of lemon zest. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and impeccably balanced, with a very good core of fruit, fine transparency and grip, zesty acids and lovely nervosité on the long and precise finish. Fine juice. 2027-2055.John Gilman | 92+ JG