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This village-level appellation enjoys a prime position just underneath the premier crus Perrières. In 2022, the grapes delivered a charming wine with forward aromas of lemon peel, flint and flowers. The texture is fresh and lively, and there is considerable extract that draws it out to an impressive finish, particularly for a village wine. The grapes are from 1.17 hectares at the northern edge of the climat; they are crushed and firmly pressed before fermenting in cask (15% new) to produce this delicious wine.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes has a similar reduction to the Les Levrons, focused and perhaps even more concentrated. The palate is well-balanced with impressive depth. There’s not quite the mineralité of a Premier Cru, but ample concentration with a lively, spicy finish. Delicious.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPale lemon in colour. The bouquet is open and expressive, slightly more in fresh orchard fruit than floral, but with a pleasing elegance. There is just a little more intensity on the palate, with a racy fresh fruit quality and good length. A little fuller bodied all the way through, and keeps on going. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

Very cool and and focused, this mouthwatering Saint Romain has an extreme chalky minerality. Only medium-bodied, but really concentrated. Super-fresh and focused finish with so much fresh herb complexity (think sage and thyme). Very long and polished finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2022 Saint-Romain Sous Le Velle is comparatively more backward on the nose, a little chalky in style with light Golden Delicious and orange pith scents. There is fine delineation with neatly integrated oak. The palate is well-balanced, with a tang of orange zest on the entry. This has a silver beard of acidity, lending real tension and matching the impressive depth towards the vibrant finish. Sous Le Velle is often one of the go-to vineyards in Saint-Romain, and this proves exactly why.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPalish lemon and lime. A fine and classy bouquet, floral but still with the racy freshness of St-Romain. Fresh apples on the palate, with an intensity that will demand a little bottle age. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Here the equally cool, airy and elegant nose reflects citrus and floral scents that are liberally-suffused with a similar dose of borderline pungent wet stone nuances. There is both excellent volume and focused power to the dense and intense medium-bodied flavors that exude an almost palpable minerality on the superbly long finish that comes close to etching itself on the palate. This is an absolute knockout and a clear candidate for the best premier cru of the vintage.Burghound | 96 BHGuillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot’s cellar.Decanter | 95 DECMid yellow, with a biscuity touch. Seems unsubtle until you get to the palate which is super powerful but also with subtlety. This Monopole vineyard comprises four distinct terroirs though they are always assembled. An electric backbone stops the power overturning the balance. Yellow fruit, and then an extraordinary, indeed grand cru, weight. Incisive white fruit finish. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful austerity at this stage, but this should come together in time. A whole range of complex floral and tropical nuances linger. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

Lush, juicy and seductive, this red features blackberry, black currant, blueberry, iron and earth aromas and flavors. Quickly tightens up courtesy of the solid structure, with fine promise for its evolution. Offers terrific balance and length. Best from 2029 through 2047. 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges 1er Cru had been racked the previous week, but it was essentially the final wine I tasted as it was just about to be bottled. It has a stricter and more backward bouquet than the Chênes Carteaux: blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, the 20% new oak neatly folded in. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, leaning more towards black fruit laced with tar and tobacco. Quite Morey-like towards the finish with impressive persistence. Give this two or three years in bottle to shave the edges. Very fine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMRacked, to bottle in December. 35 hl/ha. A darker purple, just a little oak showing on the nose alongside the dark raspberry fruit. The grain of tannin is very good, and ideally integrated, with just the right acidity as well. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThis manages to be at once ripe yet cool with its layered combination of black cherry, plum and just turned earth and humus nuances. There is notably better density and volume to the bigger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the firm, moderately austere and sneaky long finish. This by contrast is going to need at least a few years of keeping first.Burghound | 90-92 BH

In 2022, the Chambolle Baudes was my favourite of Lignier’s several holdings in the village. The wine displays an expressive red and black fruit aroma, with notes of Asian spice and peonies, yet there is also a savoury, earthy side to the aroma. The texture is supple and not at all heavy. Ideally, one would wait five years to open this and then drink it over the next twenty or more that follow since it has the substance to age well.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThere is one new barrel out of the four. Mid purple, much more energy, and density behind. A lower pH compared to Chabiots is what drives this. An explosion of red berry fruit on the palate, with a crisp clean long finish, very complete. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 1er Cru has a very floral bouquet like the Chabiots…more intense perhaps, a touch more mineralité. Very well-defined. The palate is svelte and velvety smooth in texture, with vivacious redcurrant, strawberry notes, blood orange, and a touch of fresh fig towards the caressing finish. This will be very seductive.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes is one of the highlights of the range, offering up aromas of ripe cherries, red berries, orange zest and Indian spices. Medium to full-bodied, supple and layered, it’s deep and concentrated, with a style that reflects its proximity to Bonnes-Mares.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPHere the ripe, spice and floral-suffused aromas display notes of violet, rose petal, anise and both red and dark pinot fruit. There is equally good size, weight and power to the slightly more muscular flavors that deliver excellent length on the balanced and slightly more structured finale. The Lignier Baudes always ages extremely well and the 2022 version should be no exception.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Aromas of peonies, mint and sweet red berries introduce the 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chabiots (négoce), a medium to full-bodied, supple and perfumed wine with melting tannins and a saline, rose-inflected finish. This delicate, ethereal red will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThe 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Chabiots 1er Cru comes from purchased fruit, 25% whole bunches, and comprises three barrels. This is nicely focused with rose petals, red cherry, and crushed strawberry on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is floral in style with pliant tannins, quite lush red fruit, and a smooth, sensual finish. Très Chambolle, this should be drinking after four or five years.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM3 barrels, one new, from purchased grapes. A pink crimson colour, flowery, soft strawberries, a little peppery behind, minor tannins. Agreeable yet lacking the density of the Nuits Poisets. Fair length though. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMA much spicier and more elegant nose freely offers up its aromas of fresh red cherry, plum and pretty array of floral elements. The delicious, vibrant and moderately muscular medium-bodied flavors exude evident minerality on the dusty, firm and youthfully austere finale. This could use better depth but I like the balance, which should allow it to age gracefully over a decade plus.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Mid purple in colour with a sensual nose, and a touch of white pepper. A dark red fruit on the palate, dark strawberry, with fair length behind. A pleasing rendition of friendly Charmes-Chambertin. Drink from 2030-2039. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMModerate reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose. The succulent bigger-bodied flavors possess better concentration but not nearly the refinement and while there is good persistence, the dusty finish is a bit chewy and rustic.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet, opening with black cherries, wild strawberries, and crushed stone. There is real vibrancy here. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly rustic opening. It’s a solid Charmes-Chambertin with good depth but lacks some precision on the finish. A slipped catch from an otherwise strong line-up?Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

This wine is the star of the Lignier cellar and among the best in Morey, with its currant and mulberry fruit and hints of savoury, gamey depth. The wine is more muscular, structured, and dense than the ’classic’ Clos de la Roche, yet there is enough elegance to ensure that this wine is in a class of its own. The grapes come from 27 ares planted in Monts Luisants by Lignier’s grandparents in 1955. One-third of the grapes were gently fermented as whole clusters over 18 days, and the wine is ageing now in a cask (one-third new).Decanter Magazine | 98 DECThe 2022 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of smoky plums and berries mingled with notions of cinnamon, raw cocoa, game bird and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with supple, powdery tannins cloaked by a sweet core of fruit, it concludes with a broad but saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPHere too the nose is sufficiently reduced as to mask the fruit. On the palate though there is both good verve and freshness to the highly seductive and rich larger-scaled flavors that brim with sappy dry extract and evident minerality on the balanced, firm and lingering finale that exhibits focused power. This is really quite impressive and a wine that should amply repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Laurent Lignier’s 2022 Gevrey Combottes is a resounding success, with its expressive black and red fruit aromas and abundant earthy complexity and depth. The texture is broad and dense, and the structure carries the wine to an impressively lingering finish. The wine is produced from Lignier’s tiny 0.15-hectare plot at the foot of Mont Luisant, surrounded on three sides by grand crus. The grapes are from vines originally planted in 1957; they are partially destemmed before gentle fermentation on native yeasts and ageing in cask.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes 1er Cru has a beautiful bouquet (as usual) with pure red cherries, wild strawberries, pencil box, and light loamy scents in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins. There’s impressive depth, fleshier than the La Petite Chapelle, with a caressing, persistent finish. Very seductive. Very delicious.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA rich and even purple. A little bit of graphite on the nose. A fine density of dark red fruit, with some roses and peonies as well. All building together very well. A rich fruit quite lush, yet with an electric backbone through the middle, leading to a long sensuous finale. Very good. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMRich and wild, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes offers up aromas of licorice, plums, smoked meats and spices. Medium to full-bodied, supple and carnal, with a fleshy core of fruit and powdery tannins, it can’t quite match the level of the Morey Vieilles Vignes this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPMore discreet wood influence more easily allows the elegant, and more floral, aromas of mostly dark pinot fruit to be enjoyed. The caressing but punchy medium weight flavors possess good mid-palate richness before terminating in a dusty, youthfully austere and well-balanced finale. This is lovely and very Combottes in character, which is to say refined but with focused power.Burghound | 91-94 BH

From 1.02 hectares of vines, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées includes one-third whole bunches this year. The intriguing bouquet offers red berry fruit, brown spices, and hints of Earl Grey - quite complex and mercurial in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh, and vibrant with sappy red fruit, fine delineation, and a svelte, harmonious, graphite-tinged finish. This superb Gevrey should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA fine mid ruby. Less immediately seductive on the nose than the Gevrey Regnard, but still with plenty of red berry fruit, a little more structure from the barrel, and will take longer to come round. A fine intensity of strawberry fruit behind. Old vines, some pre-war, the rest 1950s-60s. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMAromas of spices, wild berries, smoke and loamy soil introduce the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées, a medium to full-bodied, pure and charming wine that’s ample and fine-boned, with melting tannins and a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPA slightly more deeply pitched nose features notes of plum, earth, violet and a hint of the sauvage. There is very good mid-palate density to the solidly powerful middleweight flavors that exhibit fine length on the muscular, dusty, rustic and muscular finish. This is built-to-age and should repay 7 to 10 years of aging.Burghound | 89-91 BH

From purchased fruit, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Reniards has a perfumed bouquet of red berries, wild strawberries, and a touch of peppermint in the background. The palate is very well-balanced with red cherry, cranberry and crushed stone. Fresh and focused with a bit of allspice and peppercorns on the finish. This evidences a solid source of fruit. Very fine. (Drink between 2025 - 2040)Vinous Media | 91-93 VMPurchased grapes. On the pinker side of ruby in colour, with a very prettily perfumed nose. Cherry as much as strawberry here, filling the mouth very nicely, in an uncomplicated but delicious fashion. Well worth seeking out. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-92 JMFresh, bright and airy aromas include those of the essence of red currant and forest floor nuances. The medium weight flavors are at once succulent and sleek while delivering fine length on the balanced finale where a touch of bitter pit fruit-character slowly emerges.Burghound | 88-91 BH

The ripe mulberry and black cherry fruit aromas here have hints of leather, earth and spice that carry through to the palate. The structure has admirable grip and focus, leading the wine to a pleasantly persistent finish. The grapes are from a half-hectare recently purchased; he extracts very carefully, with a pre-soak but no more punching down. The result is elegant and should be ready to drink shortly after release.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECA pretty purple with good depth, on a steady slope well exposed to the south. Attractive juicy red fruit, more strawberries, with good energy all the way through. As with the village wine, this is more about the fruit than the structure. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JMThe 2022 Monthélie 1er Cru Sur la Velle is seamless and charming, offering up notes of plums, sweet berries, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and charming palate. This will offer expressive drinking on release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RPFirm reduction blocks an assessment of the nose though there is good freshness and verve to the succulent, delicious and velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors that deliver reasonably good length on the firm, dusty and mildly chewy finish that is rustic but not hard.Burghound | 88-90 BHThe 2022 Monthélie Sous la Velle 1er Cru has a crisp, well-defined bouquet, the 20% whole bunches neatly integrated, offering hints of raspberry and blackcurrant leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins and well-balanced, though it needs a little more depth toward the finish. But I appreciate the white pepper notes on the conclusion. An admirable Monthélie.Vinous Media | 87-90 VM

The top of the slope above the Clos Saint-Denis is classed as premier cru Les Chaffots (the bottom of the climat is grand cru Clos Saint-Denis). Laurent Lignier uses his half-hectare (all above 300 m elevation) here to craft a sublime wine—it is a superlative spot in hot years such as 2022. This wine boasts fresh cherry and pomegranate fruit aromas with an edge of floral notes and a hint of earth and smoke. The texture is tannic and firm, with impressive concentration and length. It should open well in five to seven years and drink for another twenty beyond that.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru comes from vines planted in 1968 and is the first vintage where they were tended organically. Blended with one-third whole bunches, this has a succinct bouquet of mineral-rich red fruit that blossoms in the glass. Very focused. The palate is medium-bodied, very poised, and saline with fine-grain tannins. It is powdery in texture and long and tender towards the finish. Bon vin!Vinous Media | 93-95 VMA 1968 planting. Glowing deep purple. Clean raspberry fruit with a fine intensity, which expresses itself even better on the palate, with an energetic dark raspberry and a suggestion of black cherry. A few tannins still. This may take a little more time but is very promising. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots is tauter and more tensile than the ampler Riotte, reflecting its stonier, higher-altitude terroir. Revealing aromas of smoky berries, plums, spices and loamy soil, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and saline.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPFirm reduction presently overshadows the fruit. Otherwise, there is equally good intensity to the bigger-bodied and notably more powerful flavors that manage to be both suave yet precise on the very firm, youthfully austere and impressively long finale. Like the Baudes, this is a wine with excellent aging potential.Burghound | 90-93 BH

This blended premier cru has always been the chouchou (special favourite) of Laurent Lignier. It is two-thirds of a hectare, blended from Faconnières and Les Cheneverey. The vines were planted beginning in 1936, the youngest—in 1962. It usually gives a wine that is a model of elegance and finesse, and 2022 is no exception, with pronounced aromas of mulberry and cassis touched with violets, liquorice, and cedar. The texture is ethereal and perfumed, yet the finish is astonishingly long. This wine should be accessible relatively early and should drink for 20 years at least.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECClear bright and lively ruby purple. Super perfume, this has an innate class over and above even the Chaffots, with a lovely tensile strength. More red fruit than black, perfectly poised, with a long stylish finish. All in finesse! Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes 60% from Les Faconnières and the rest from Chenevery. The very complex bouquet has a mixture of red and black fruit, detailed with crushed rock and graphite. The medium-bodied palate has fine-grain tannins with that graphite element hovering in the background. It is very detailed and precise toward the finish. This is one of Lignier’s finest cuvées, and the 2022 is no different. Superb.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes unwinds in the glass with aromas of rich, smoky berry fruit mingled with notes of rose petals, spices and grilled squab. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins, it concludes with a perfumed finish. As usual, it’s one of the high points of the range.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThis is also firmly reduced. By contrast, there is a lovely sense of freshness and verve suffusing the exceptionally rich and highly seductive medium-bodied flavors that brim with old vine sappy dry extract while exhibiting evident minerality on the superbly long, balanced and powerful finish. This is excellent and, along with the Combottes, almost always the domaine’s best 1er.Burghound | 91-94 BH

After a somewhat disappointing 2021, Lignier’s Trilogie is back in fine form in 2022, with dense blackberry fruit aromas and tar, earth and spice notes underscored by a dark chocolate note. The texture is substantial and tannic – an imposing village-level wine. The grape blend is based on the Chenevery lieu-dit (60%) with the addition of fruit from old cordon-trained vines in the clay-rich soils of Clos Solon and a bit of Les Porroux on the border of Chambolle. Marvellous.Decanter | 94 DECThe trilogy of Chenevery (60%), Les Porroux (30%) and 10% Clos Solon was all planted by Laurent’s grandfather, planted between the late 1940s and early 60s. Just a little deeper in colour, and with some reduction, plus also slightly more oak, but well judged. Notably more precision here, what Clive Coates would call grip, and extra intensity towards the back. A slightly darker red fruit in this wine, and very persistent. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie is a success, wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, peonies, raw cocoa and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, supple and sapid, with powdery tannins and a persistent finish, it’s the usual blend of Chenevery, Porroux and Clos Solon.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-91 RPThe 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie, based around 60% from Chenevery, has a well-defined bouquet of vivacious red berries, tart red cherries, citrus, and a touch of white chocolate. The palate is well-defined, with a smooth texture and a keen bead of acidity. It is quite saline in the mouth with a slightly austere finish at the moment, but it will fill out with time in bottle. One for the patient amongst you.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMOnce again moderate reduction largely masks the underlying fruit. By contrast, there is both good freshness and energy suffusing the succulent and delicious medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a rustic, firm and sneaky long finish. This nicely made effort should repay 7 to 10 years of keeping.Burghound | 88-91 BH

Laurent Lignier has farmed a quarter-hectare of village Volnay since the 2020 vintage, split evenly between the rocky Ez Blanches at the top of the slope above the Clos des Chênes and Ez Echarts with deeper clay soils below Roncerets. The combination is delightful, with violet-scented blackberry fruit, firm tannic grip and rewarding density. The grapes are partly destemmed and given a cold soak before fermentation with a combination of punching down and pumping over. They will be bottled in the spring without fining or filtration.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also presently quite firmly reduced and unreadable in this condition. The relatively finely textured middleweight flavors also possess a succulent mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the moderately austere and lingering if noticeably warm finish that isn’t subtle.Burghound | 87-90 BH

The red premier cru Gravières is the flagship of this estate. It is widely seen as the finest vineyard in Santenay, and Jessiaume owns more than five hectares; the bulk of this is included here. This substantial wine is slightly reticent on the initial attack, but it opens with time to show deep mulberry and plum fruit aromas, hints of exotic black tea and spice. The texture is dense and firm, with silky but supportive tannins and impressive persistence on the palate. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing for 12 months in cask (25% new).Decanter | 94 DECA fine flowing crimson purple colour. The bouquet has both class and a sense of reserve. Dark raspberry fruit, but the key is that this wine is busting with energy without sacrificing finesse. The tannins are correctly ripe and integrate beautifully, and there is just the right point of acidity alongside. An impeccable finish. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

TOP VALUE Jessiaume is using the 2ha of domaine vines it recently recovered from a sharecropping contract to produce this lovely wine with aromatic raspberry fruit and a floral edge. Supple and approachable, with a pleasant sweetness to the fruit, structure and freshness. A noticeable step up from the other village-level bottlings. Organic.Decanter Magazine | 94 DECThis red Santenay has a crisp acidity, but there’s excellent concentration and finely nuanced red-fruit aromas that easily balance this. Cool and elegant on the medium-bodied palate, where the fine-grained tannins, fruit and freshness neatly interlock. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2022 Santenay La Cassière has a pleasant bouquet with wild strawberry and raspberry fruit and some judicious and prudent use of new oak (20%). The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, more harmonious, and unlike the Vieilles Vignes, the finish has more substance. Drink over 4-6 years.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMFrom a plot below La Maladière, recovered by the domaine in 2021. An attractive lighter purple colour. This is an elegant style of Santenay. Quite nuanced, pleasing light red fruits, enough acidity and good length. Very far from rustic! Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 87-90 JM

Quite an aromatic chardonnay here, with discerning notes of sliced green apples, melon and lemon zest. Round and textured, with simple apple pith and nectarines in the pristine yet flavorful palate. Lots of fruit in the round, medium- to full-bodied palate. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JS

Restrained and with notable concentration, this is an intense premier cru with great potential. Notes of peach fruit cut with zesty lime citrus. Very fine. From 68-year-old vines on very dense, white clay soils which are like concrete when dry, heavy when wet.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2022 Chablis Butteaux Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes from vines around 70 years old, only slightly older than the regular cuvée, but on different soils (white clay rather than brown with high fossil content). It is usually bottled slightly later. The nose is a little more expressive with hints of red cherries and peach skin - very well defined. The palate is well-balanced with more harmony than the regular cuvée, a crisp line of acidity and touches of oyster shell on the saline finish. Great persistence here. Excellent.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMSmall millerand crop that ripened early. Pale in colour without too much nose. Nicely balanced on the palate though, a more tightly knit white fruit than the regular bottling, with a little lemon zest, and a balanced long finish. Picked at the right moment I suspect. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThis is similar to the regular cuvée except that it seems ever-so-slightly riper. By contrast, there is better concentration and power to the medium-bodied flavors and, somewhat unusually, the mouthfeel is finer as well, particularly on the more complex if also more austere finale. Lovely.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 20222 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain L’Exceptionne is Gamay and Pinot Noir picked together from 94-year-old vines planted by Clothilde Lafarge’s great-grandfather. It has wonderful transparency on the nose: red cherries mixed with raspberry. The palate leans more towards the Pinot Noir, with fine delineation, gentle grip and ample tension on the finish. A strong follow-up to the excellent 2021.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM94 year old vine, coming from the same vintage as Michel Lafarge. Mid crimson red. A very attractive red berry fruit on the nose, nothing dramatic, not speaking especially of either grape. Refines in the glass. Pinot flavours with gamay’s more acidic structure in the glass, but an unusual wealth of fruit. Very good example Tasted Dec 2023.Jasper Morris | 87-90 JM