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With 3.65ha spread over eight plots, Fèvre is the largest owner in Vaulorent. Didier Seguier says marl soil gives the density, while Kimmeridgian supplies the minerality. Great complexity on both the nose and palate, this has the richness and structure of the grand cru. Absolutely no need to rush drinking this. Stunning.Decanter | 96 DECOne of the finest wines in the portfolio this year is the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a taut, youthfully reserved bottling of immense promise. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, beeswax, crisp white peach, white flowers, freshly baked bread and oyster shell, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with terrific tensioning intensity in a tightly wound format. It’s warmly recommended, though patience will be required.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP(Chablis “Vaulorent”- Domaine William Fèvre) I am always impressed that Didier Séguier chooses to only bottle the finest parcels of old vines in Vaulorent under that label, with the remainder of the domaine’s holdings being bottled under a Fourchaume label. But, when one tastes this hard on the heels of the very fine Fourchaume domaine wine, one can see that these old vines are a step up in quality. The bouquet of the 2020 Vaulorent jumps from the glass in a stunning blend of pear, apple, tart orange, lemon zesty, a kaleidoscopic base of limestone minerality, a touch of anise and a floral topnote redolent of white lilies. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, superb mineral drive and cut, snappy acids and great balance on the long and zesty finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2065)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe restrained and layered nose makes clear that this could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its aromas of algae, iodine, oyster shell and spiced pear. The texture of the medium-weight flavors is also sleek and intense with slightly better density if a bit less refinement to the youthfully austere bitter lemon-suffused finish. Lovely and while qualitatively equal to the MdT, it offers a markedly different expression.Burghound | 93 BH

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a straightforward bouquet: orchard fruit and Granny Smith apples with just a touch of petrichor. It’s not complex, but it has more typicité than some of its brethren (even if it needs to shake off some reduction that actually becomes more evident with aeration). The palate is well-balanced with plenty of concentration, real weight and heft in the mouth, citrus peel mixed with lanolin and a hint of fennel. Spicy towards the finish, this lingers long in the mouth. Power and tenderness combined. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMFresh in colour, a lifted perfumed floral nose, on the sharper side. Then some bacon fat as well as lemon balm. Not quite sure what to make of this. No faulting the intensity, but it is not quite harmonious today. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted May 2024.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

Label of consistency and excellent continuity, founded (also) on impeccable processing protocols, conducted between steel and oak barrel. The scents are those of red mulberry, with shades of cloves and peony, it proves savoury in a sip, with floral memories.Luca Gardini | 96+ LGA lively Brunello with aromas of plums, ripe cherries, cedar and teak that follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a crisp finish. Crunchy and linear. Lovely energy at the end. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino pours a bright red hue and opens with citrus-tinged aromatics of tangerine, red cherries, dried herbs, and pressed flowers. Medium-bodied, it has a focused, linear feel on the palate, with well-defined tannins, brisk acidity, and a salty, mouthwatering finish. Drink this vibrant, classic effort over the coming 15 years. Drink 2026-2041.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino mixes violet and lavender tones before settling on stemmed wild strawberries. It is remarkably fresh and fruit-forward, with a core of tantalizing acidity elevating depths of ripe red and blue fruits. This finishes with staining length and edgy tannins, leaving a raspberry concentration and nuances of autumnal spice.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2020 Brunello from Altesino has pretty aromas of blue flower, baked plum and wild herb. Lithe and already accessible, the rather straightforward palate offers ripe raspberry, blood orange and licorice accompanied by polished tannins. Drink through 2033. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 91 KO

Aromas of forest floor, ripe woodland berry, cedar and lavender come to the forefront on the beautiful 2021 Brunello from Armilla. Elegantly structured and savory, the vibrant palate offers crushed Morello cherry, wild strawberry, star anise, rosemary and a hint of truffle accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2030–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe Armilla 2021 Brunello di Montalcino reflects the character of the vintage with good freshness, dark fruit nuances and notes of pressed flowers. It offers solid intensity—measured, but not shy—and moves across the palate with medium fruit weight, concluding with a short, somewhat lean finish. Produced from organically farmed (but not certified) vineyards in the southern part of the appellation, Armilla’s Brunello typically emphasizes purity and approachability over power. This is a lighter, more informal style of Brunello, albeit with a Brunello price tag. Production is 10,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly floral, with a hint of crushed rocks and dried herbs giving way to subtle strawberry nuances. It is wonderfully fresh and lifted, with a core of brisk acidity and juicy wild berry fruits. Edgy tannins and inner florals resonate as the 2021 tapers off long but lifted.Vinous Media | 92 VMModern style here, with lush plums and black cherries, violets and licorice. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and firm, chalky yet tight tannins. Bitter finish. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 91 JS

Castello Romitorio’s 2021 Brunello di Montalcino channels much of the estate’s fruit over seven plots, as no Riserva was produced, resulting in a wine of notable depth and cohesion. Whispered and delicate at first, the bouquet unfolds with white pepper, blue flowers and grilled herb before moving toward darker tones of sweet blackberry. The palate is open-knit yet powerful, showing juicy ripeness, layered complexity and a structured mid-palate that remains streamlined in classic Sangiovese fashion. Fermented in cement with maceration times tailored to the thickness of the skins from each plot, typically ranging from 18 to 24 days and extending up to 30 days when needed, the wine was aged for 24 months in oak, with 90% in large barrels and 10% in second- and third-passage tonneaux. Produced in 42,000 bottles, this Brunello will benefit from additional cellaring.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPCedar spice box mixes with incense, cloves and dried black cherries as the expressive 2021 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. Elegant with a wildly appealing energy, the 2021 displays masses of ripe wild berry fruits beneath an air of violet inner florals. It finishes with incredible length and concentration, perfectly framed by a coating of sweet tannin. This young, radiant Brunello is sure to have many fans.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The Ca’ Marcanda 2021 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda is made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in a supporting role. This a bold and beautifully concentrated wine with a brilliant character that is best described as Rubenesque. It shows supple texture and deep richness supported by sweet fruit and raspberry tart. The ripe, well-managed tannins cede to tingling freshness that adds energy and life.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2021 Camarcanda is a fabulous wine from the Gaja family, the best they have ever made at their Bolgheri property. The wines here have been through some ups and downs, but there seems to be greater focus over these last few years. Silky, aromatic and wonderfully pure, the 2021 Camarcanda offers a super, contemporary expression of Bolgheri with plenty of coastal sunshine and warmth, but nothing excessive. Silky tannins frame the exceptionally polished, nuanced finish. The 2021 is so alluring.Vinous Media | 97 VMPure and elegant, with saturated flavors of violet, black currant, blackberry, licorice and iron. This is so beautifully balanced that it feels almost seamless, even at this young stage, offering a sleek profile and endless aftertaste that echoes the fruit. The oak is very well-integrated, with polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2045. 2,500 cases made, 333 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSBottled in July of 2022, the 2021 Ca’ Marcanda has a dark saturated ruby hue and seamless aromatics of graphite, black cherry liqueur, cocoa powder, and forest herbs. Full-bodied on the palate, with great structure, focus and length, and wonderful richness, it’s incredibly even in its balance and has a very long finish. It’s going to need a few years to improve and show its best, but this is a remarkable wine from this stunning vintage. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDSince the hot 2015 vintage, Merlot has been omitted from Carmarcanda. It’s a stunning effort in 2021, with fragrant scents of dried cherry, sous bois and minty black fruits, which carry through onto the intense and vibrant palate. There’s a streak of balsamic herbs, and some raspberry and floral notes too. Poised and minty-fresh, this is a stunner.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA savory and juicy young red with currant, raspberry and boysenberry aromas and flavors that follow through to a medium to full body, with creamy and polished tannins and a pretty finish. There’s a freshness and focus to this. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

The organic La Torre 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a fleeting impression of fruit ripeness that quickly gives way to classic Sangiovese complexity marked by grilled herbs, blue flowers and earthy nuance. There is a tactile, skin-driven quality to the palate in this vintage, almost as if tasting the grapes directly at harvest, bringing added crunch, spice and energy. Despite Brunello’s mandatory five years of aging, the wine maintains a vivid sense of freshness, rolling across the palate in a collected and measured manner. Aged in Slavonian oak casks, the tannins are well integrated and supported by just enough acidity to keep the wine moving with precision. Fruit comes from 4.9 hectares of vineyards situated at 420 meters in elevation, helping to preserve balance and a gracefully accessible 13.5% alcohol content. Production is approximately 15,000 bottles, including larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDusty sage and rosemary give way to shaved blood orange and nuances of white smoke as the brooding 2021 Brunello di Montalcino dominates the glass. It is dark and rich on the palate, weightier than anticipated, with depths of ripe red and black fruit over a penetrating core of minerality. The senses are left clenched by youthfully aggressive tannins as the 2021 tapers off dramatically long and structured for the cellar.Vinous Media | 93+ VMRed fruit, lavender, cedar and a hint of sweet spices. Medium-bodied, with chewy tannins and tender fruit lifted by fresh acidity. The balance of delicacy and structure makes this particularly appealing. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2028.James Suckling | 93 JS

First bottled in 1978, refined Brunello elevated for 36 months in a mix of medium and large oak barrels. Marjoram, cinnamon and wild sage in olfaction, drink thickly, with brackish tannins, return of the notes of small medicinal plants and persistence.Luca Gardini | 97 LGA medium red hue introduces the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino, which opens with toasted cedar, licorice, red cherries, pressed flowers, rosemary, and polished leather. The palate is medium-bodied and zesty, with pure, ripe red fruit, ripe tannins, and refreshing acidity that keeps it energetic and focused through the finish. It should drink at its best over the next 15-20 years. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDAromas of black cherries, orange peel and crushed stones, Medium-bodied with juicy fruit and a flavorful finish. There’s almost a sandy, terra cotta character in the finish. Lovely balance. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSCamphor, lavender, new leather and forest floor aromas form the nose on the 2021 Brunello from Mastrojanni. The palate shows great intensity, featuring ripe black cherry, raspberry, licorice and fine tobacco blend before an orange zest note lifts the finish. It’s brawny but balanced, with taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino smolders up from the glass with a burst of crushed ashen stone and sage, giving way to mulling spice and dried black cherries. It envelops the palate with silken textures and masses of ripe dark red fruits, soothing, polished and balanced in feel. Edgy tannins mingle with a subtle citrus twang as rosy inner florals resonate through the dramatically long, youthfully structured finale. The balance here is beyond reproach. Mastrojanni blended in the juice from the Vigna Schiena d’Asino to bolster this bottling.Vinous Media | 93 VM

A restrained wine with a graceful nose of subtle red cherries, wild strawberries, sweet violets and complex earth and tamarind. Full-bodied with licorice flavors, a dense mid-palate and velvety tannins that are powerful yet ripe. Slightly lifted acidity and a long,chewy finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with heavenly perfumes as geraniums, bergamot and rose petals mix with lavender and exotic spice. It is lifted and sleek with cool-toned acidity and tart red and blue fruits flowing beneath an air of violet inner florals. The finish has saturating tension, mixing fine-grained tannins with graphite mineral tones and citrus, while hints of sour cherry pinch at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 94 VMPackaged with a gold label, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino marks the return of a wine I personally have not seen in years. In truth, this wine has been produced since 2005, the year the Gaja family acquired a vineyard in the Torrenieri area in the northern part of the appellation where clay-rich soils with high water retention create powerful wines with softer acidity. Fruit from that vineyard was blended with grapes from the Rennina and Sugarille vineyards. However, this wine has recently seen the inclusion of fruit from two new plots, Bolsignano and Villa a Tolli, that bring acidity freshness and mineral tension. The wine presents a medium- to full-bodied texture with notes of dried fruit, cassis, tarry smoke and savory leather. It is lean on the mid-palate yet long and polished. Tight-edged tannins suggest the need for additional bottle aging, a profile consistent with a traditionally structured Brunello. This is a release of 90,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

A complex and minerally wine with aromas of crushed stones, graphite, red cherries, licorice, dried flowers and aromatic herbs. Full-bodied, tense and crisp on the palate, with firm, velvety tannins and a juicy, chalky yet ripe finish with fruity and gamy flavors. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina delivers power and a full-bodied style shaped by a warm vintage and carefully calibrated oak aging under the Gaja family’s expert hand. It shows notable volume and texture, with an open-knit feel that reveals black fruit and spice on the close. Tightly wound at present, it requires more time to age and fully integrate its elements. This is a production of 14,400 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina boasts a dark ruby hue and a bouquet of crushed blackberries, dusty sage, talc, nuances of mint and orange zest. It’s racy with bright acidity and crisp wild berry fruits that slowly saturate the senses, further enhanced by an array of grippy tannins. This Brunello finishes with excellent length and heroic structure, leaving a cascade of inner florals and subtle licorice twang.Vinous Media | 95 VMCurrently resting in concrete, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Renina is a jeweled ruby hue and offers aromatics that are compact and pure with liqueur of red cherries. It’s more consistent on the palate, with ripe tannins, seamless acidity, crystalline freshness, and a very even and long finish, but it’s not lacking for ripeness. I predict this will be a very successful vintage for this wine, which is more similar to 2019 in terms of its more noble structure.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

2021 was an exceptional year in the Langhe as is clearly demonstrated by the gorgeous 2021 Barbaresco from Produttori. It boasts beautiful aromas of violet, rose, cake spice and mint that carry over to the elegant palate along with succulent red cherry, crushed raspberry and star anise. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity keep it impeccably balanced. Made from blending Nebbiolo from different vineyard sites, this is the firm’s classic Barbaresco and is one of the greatest values in Italian fine wine. Drink 2027–2033. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThis wine gives us our first taste of the epic 2021 vintage from a producer as prolific as Produttori del Barbaresco. Bottled in April 2024, this vintage shows the immense power and complexity that likens it to 2016, another year for collectors. The 2021 Barbaresco offers medium-rich density that is transmitted both to the wine’s appearance and its mouthfeel. There is black fruit, spice and a touch of nutmeg. However, the wine maintains its youthful tension and energy throughout. The tannins are chalky, fine and void of any bitterness. This is a classical expression of Nebbiolo that gives us good reason to be excited for the upcoming 2021 Barbaresco Riservas.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPA vibrant, well-defined red, offering rose, cherry, strawberry, white pepper and mineral flavors. Sleek and elegant, this firms up on the linear finish. Balanced and approachable now yet would benefit from a bit more time to knit together. Excellent length. Best from 2027 through 2040. 24,000 cases made, 7,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2021 Barbaresco offers more complexity and sports a bit deeper shade of red than the 2021. Layered with aromas of kirsch, darker spice, cardamom, candied flowers, and orange peel, the palate is more structured and compact, with savory notes of salty earth, angular, ripe tannins, and its more citrus-noted acidity shining on the palate. It has more nervous energy and needs more time. Give it another couple years and drink 2027-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDAn intriguing wine with aromas of potpourri, dried cherries and candied orange zest. Smoky and juicy on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins, a full body and a long, savory finish. Drinkable now, but it has great potential for the long haul.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Barbaresco is a gorgeous, deep wine. Although the aromatics are a bit closed, the 2021 shows gorgeous depth and a touch more palate presence than is typically the case for this bottling. Dark and enveloping, the 2021 will offer a number of years of very fine drinking. It is an impressive, classy wine from Produttori del Barbaresco.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is deeply complex and spicy, with a wild bouquet that blends orange shavings, sour cherries, rosemary and nuances of split pine. It possesses an impenetrable core of crunchy red berry fruits and mineral tones, with hints of clove adding a bitter bite under an air of violet inner florals. Youthfully dense yet refined, there is simply so much going on here, as tart cranberry blends with a saturation of fine tannins and inner rose tones swirl throughout. Nearly a minute goes by, and the 2021 can still be sensed through a tinge of licorice and lavender. This is a drop-dead gorgeous and radiant effort for Salvioni, with a bright future in store for patient collectors.Vinous Media | 97 VMAlso tasted from barrel, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino La Cerbaiola takes on notes of blood orange, dark berries, and dark earth. Offering a noble structure with good acidity and a more angular feel, it has a good deal of tension up front and a long finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

Pouring a medium red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is lush and pure on the nose, with cherry liqueur, crushed lavender, polished leather, and sage. The palate is medium to full-bodied and tightly coiled, with vibrant acidity, ripe tannins, and a compact, restrained feel that carries through the long finish. It’s going to benefit from another year or more in bottle to unfurl and should drink beautifully over the coming two decades. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JD

Black cherry, black licorice, graphite, violet and lavender aromas follow through to a full body with a compact center palate and chewy yet very integrated tannins that give drive and great length. Muscular and agile in the finish. Try after 2029.James Suckling | 98 JSSmall barrel and the most ‘historic’ vineyards on the property, combined with sustainable agriculture and non-invasive protocols in the cellar. Aromas of carob, puffs of gardenia and touches of dogwood orange. Savoury-salty sip, intense tannins, closes with a call of undergrowth.Luca Gardini | 98 LGThe Siro Pacenti 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne offers greater concentration and oak spice, presenting a dark and richly layered profile with generous tannins well suited to the character of the warm vintage. Aged in barrique, the wine is built from an intriguing blend of fruit, with half drawn from mineral-rich rocky soils at 150 meters in elevation in the southern sector and half from clay-heavy northern vineyards at 330 meters in elevation, giving it both weight and dimension. This structured and deeply flavored Brunello is produced in 15,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPYouthfully backward in the glass, the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne requires some coaxing to unleash its array of dried black cherries, mentholated herbs, cinnamon sticks and crushed stone. It is seamlessly silky smooth and supple, with depths of chocolate-laced wild berry fruits contrasted by a tactile mineral core. Fresh acidity wins the day as the 2021 finishes with cheek-punching tension, structured yet not severe, while leaving a tart berry twang.Vinous Media | 95 VM

This exquisite wine has intense red and black fruit aromas with a floral edge and an almost salty savoury intensity. The texture is silky but tightly wound. It is commonly thought that the upper part of Suchots is superior, but this version gives that idea the lie. Here, the 100-year-old vines in the domaine’s 0.45-hectare parcel make the wine special, along with Van Caneyt’s very able winemaking. This wine should open well in three to five years and will undoubtedly last another 40 (at least) beyond that.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is one of the highlights of the range this year. Wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, cassis, orange zest and exotic spices and framed by a deft application of new oak, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, with terrific depth, velvety tannins and a long, broad finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru has an overtly floral bouquet with rose petals and violets complementing the red fruit. It’s vivacious as it was in barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy, succulent tannins and iodine touches. The finish needs a little more complexity and nerve. Tasted at the Stannary Wines dinner in London with Charles van Canneyt.Vinous Media | 92 VMOnce again the nose is wonderfully fresh and even spicier with its aromas of poached plum and liqueur-like dark pinot fruit that is also tinged with exotic tea wisps. There is noticeably better density to the caressing and seductively textured yet decided powerful flavors that brim with dry extract before concluding in a moderately austere and hugely long finale. This too is quite compact and very much built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHA distinguished crimson purple. The oak is a little more apparent, and the fruit a riper, fleshier raspberry. Oak continues to take a hand but the fruit stays with it. Lower acidity in the Suchots, at least by taste. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

The old vines of the 0.62-hectare parcel that Dujac farms in Puligny have produced a wine of great intensity and concentration in 2022, with aromas of lemon peel and nectarines and a smoky, flinty character that is more typical of Puligny than it is of the nearby Meursault Charmes. The structure is linear and taught, but there is enough extract to ensure that this should age exceptionally well. For best results, give this wine three to five years in the bottle before opening.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is a touch more reductive out of the gates, unwinding to reveal notes of toasted hazelnuts, pear, apple, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, it’s more concentrated and more incisive that the Folatières and concludes with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-93 RPThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru is more nuanced on the nose than the Les Folatières, with more sharpness and a touch more nervosité coming through with aeration, which is often the case when the two are compared side-by-side. The palate is well-balanced with a vivid entry, spicier than the Les Folatières with touches of lemongrass towards the intense finish. Just need to muster a little more refinement.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMFrom 75 year old vines. Full yellow, with both some wood and some reduction on the nose. Clearly denser fruit, evident even on the nose. A broad fruit, ripe apples, with a thread of acidity which is useful given the ripe style of the fruit. Slightly longer at the finish. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMA whiff of exoticism is present on the aromas of poached apple, lychee, white peach and mineral reduction. The finer and classier medium-bodied flavors possess good underlying tension on the stony bone-dry finish that displays slightly better length.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Complex smoky and nutty character, excellent concentration with a wonderful mineral acidity that keeps this very bright through the long, multilayered finish. No hint of anything exotic or overly ripe in spite of the ample depth.James Suckling | 96 JS

Here the equally cool, airy and elegant nose reflects citrus and floral scents that are liberally-suffused with a similar dose of borderline pungent wet stone nuances. There is both excellent volume and focused power to the dense and intense medium-bodied flavors that exude an almost palpable minerality on the superbly long finish that comes close to etching itself on the palate. This is an absolute knockout and a clear candidate for the best premier cru of the vintage.Burghound | 96 BHGuillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot’s cellar.Decanter | 95 DECMid yellow, with a biscuity touch. Seems unsubtle until you get to the palate which is super powerful but also with subtlety. This Monopole vineyard comprises four distinct terroirs though they are always assembled. An electric backbone stops the power overturning the balance. Yellow fruit, and then an extraordinary, indeed grand cru, weight. Incisive white fruit finish. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful austerity at this stage, but this should come together in time. A whole range of complex floral and tropical nuances linger. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s and 1950s.Decanter | 95 DECMostly from old vines, a good half planted between 1948 and 1952. Translucent lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is not ready to unfurl yet there is a sense of sublime purity about the nose. A wine in perfect harmony on its wide bench of white fruit. Just a little touch of spice behind, good acidity. Sign up for this! Drink from 2032-2045. Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMThis is aromatically quite similar to the Côte Bouguerots but with more floral influence. The rich, big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors are also seemingly chiseled from Kimmeridgian, all wrapped in a wonderfully persistent, very dry, balanced and stony finale. This is also extremely impressive and equally built to repay extended cellaring.Burghound | 93-95 BHThe 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a surprisingly primal bouquet with gooseberry, melon, fruits de mer and citrus peel, with more oyster shell scents developing as it opens, though never quite achieving the flair of the Valmur. The palate is well-balanced, steely and strict, with fine intensity and a saline finish. But it doesn’t quite have the precision of Fevre’s best cuvées at the moment.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Beautiful mix of richness, grace and drive. As always with Fèvre’s Les Preuses, this is elegant, long-living and fine. Ultra-stylish and very mineral. From two sections of vines. One situated low down on Les Preuses next to Vincent Dauvissat’s plot, on the flatter part facing south, the other on deeper soils, with both adding richness and totalling 2.5ha.Decanter | 96 DECSuch a fresh lime infused colour. The bouquet shows the soft creamy riches that you can find here in Les Preuses. There is plenty of bulk but the hectare plot which drops down into Vaudésir gives the mineral tension. A little lime and lemon coats the tongue at the finish. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is not unlike the Valmur on the nose: backward and a little sultry in style, with faint touches of crustacea coming through. The palate is more generous with orchard fruit, hints of apricot and wild peach, and fine acidity. It is very harmonious but without quite the same complexity as the Valmur on the finish. Still, this should give many years of drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA toasty nose features notes of smoky grilled shellfish, pear and algae. The dense and equally serious larger-scaled flavors don’t have quite the same power yet they are clearly more refined on the markedly bitter citrus zest finish that displays outstanding length. This is exceptionally classy and while it too could use more depth, that is all but assured if given a chance.Burghound | 92-95 BH

Beautiful, with a ripe, layered style, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc offers honeyed lemon, quince, crushed stone, and floral nuances that develop beautifully with time in the glass. It’s medium to full-bodied, has a deep, layered mouthfeel, beautifully integrated acidity, and a great finish. It has a touch more depth and volume compared to the 2024 and is a sensational white from this fabulous winemaker that will keep for 20+ years if well stored. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA truly stunning white, offering layers of complexity, this is supple and generous, with sun tea and dried herbs cruising alongside warm apple and quince. Round in feel, with flattering notes of macadamia and spices, but this stays fresh. Bitter chamomile and grapefruit pith elements add contrast to the full, salty finish. Drink now through 2035. 500 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThis is a relatively full-bodied wine, with a pear and quince profile, slightly tingling acidity and salinity, and a touch of pink grapefruit. It’s certainly powerful, but it has good freshness and a mineral edge. The very long finish is lifted by the Bourboulenc and Piquepoul. Made from equal parts Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Piquepoul and Picardan; no malo; fermented and aged in stainless steel.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA creamy, well-rounded yet lively and citrusy white. It shows notes of fresh lemons, grapefruit, dried herbs, fennel and mild spices. It’s medium- to full-bodied. Plenty of volume on the ample palate, harmonious and poised. There is so much texture on the mid-palate with a caressing touch at the edge. Round and aromatic with a fresh, citrusy finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSCrafted from six permitted varieties in equal proportions, co-fermented and cold-settled for one night, the 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc from Clos des Papes exhales a delicate, complex bouquet of fennel, verbena, pear, iodine, herbs and acacia blossoms. Medium to full-bodied, pure and seamless, it’s built around bright acids, a layered, lovely structured texture and a long, ethereal, saline finish. The phenolic aftertaste adds a racy profile that I find particularly appealing.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPVivid honeysuckle, lemon peel, ripe pear and spring blossom introduce the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. Fennel and grapefruit add more layers to what is yet another captivating white Clos des Papes from Paul-Vincent Avril. Medium-bodied and nicely balanced by mild acidity, the 2023 closes with delicate salinity on the persistent finale.Vinous Media | 94 VM

There is a ripe apple and apricot fruit aroma, lush buttery notes and a hint of spice. The texture is very rich in a classic Bâtard style. Winemaker Lucie Coutoux explained that they did a strict green harvest in July, cutting back to five to six bunches per vine, which pushed the ripeness forward, and thus, this was harvested first. She used her usual techniques: crush the grapes and slowly press them, running the must into barrel (25% new) with all of the lees. 2023 is the first vintage for Niellon since replanting the Bâtard-Montrachet in 2016. The results are spectacular.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECHere too there is a smoky note to the spicy and markedly floral-suffused nose of various white orchard fruit aromas, especially pear, along with a subtle if still easily perceptible wood nuance. Like several wines in the range, the medium weight flavors are not monsters of concentration but they do possess a sleek texture along with a lovely sense of underlying tension on the dry and balanced finale. While not quite what it used to be, it’s good to have an old friend back!Burghound | 93 BHIts back! Very young vines, needed a green harvest, in fact twice as the grapes compensated after the first. Took off half, so the vine could look after itself. 0.1190, 2273 for Chevalier. Had to pick first, with acidity declining. Pale colour, toasty nose. A lovely quality of fruit right away on the palate, less energy behind, or indeed length, only to be expected. The barrel toast remains, so look to a promising future. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThere are three barrels of the 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, whose vines were replanted in 2020 after being pulled up in 2015. Half the bunches were taken off in July before véraison to control vigor, and the pH is a little higher than other cuvées. There is some reduction on the nose, but you can feel the nascent energy. The palate is well-balanced with a richer, slightly more viscous texture than the Chevalier-Montrachet, powerful and long with a dash of spice on the finish. Of course, this is the opening chapter of the vineyard, and you can feel that it’s not full power, but it represents a promising return.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Chevalier-Montrachet 2023 from Domaine Michel Niellon is among the luminous successes of the vintage. The initial restraint on the nose gives way on the palate to aromas of ripe pear and quince with a hint of marzipan and fresh white flowers. The texture is generous, almost voluptuous, but there is a balance and elegance that hint at its noble origins. The grapes are from 0.22ha of 60-year-old vines at the base of the slope near the Leflaive parcel. Ideally, one would wait 10 years for this wine to show its full potential.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECOnce again there is a smoky whiff on the pretty, cooler and much more complex nose of wonderfully spicy pear and apple scents that are liberally laced with citrus and petrol nuances. The sleek, intense and more concentrated markedly mineral-driven flavors terminate in a chiseled, youthfully austere and bitter lemon-inflected finale that just goes on and on. This is a powerful but impeccably well-balanced Chevalier that should easily reward a decade plus of cellaring. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 95 BHPlanted in 1963 Lucie thinks. A bit degenerate, so lots of millerand. Picked at the start. Just as pale in colour, however the nose has more character showing the white limestone soil. Very linear, a classic Chevalier in the mouth, with warmth and energy to finish, but this is like licking the rock itself, more than eating the fruit. Quite tightly wound, so well worth longer keeping. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 95 JMThe 2023 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense bouquet with crushed limestone, slightly more malic than Niellon’s Chassagnes. A touch of nuttiness develops with aeration. There is a pleasing strictness here. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh. There is a little CO2 in the barrel sample, yet the energy is palpable on the finish, and it feels long and sustained in the mouth.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

Derived from over 70-year-old vines at the top of a south- and southeast-facing slope, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos opens with a deep bouquet of orange peel, Anjou pear, beeswax and jasmine, mingling with notes of warm stones. Full-bodied, multifaceted and layered, it is concentrated and enveloping, with a muscular core balanced by ample chalky extract that imparts a sensation of freshness, laden with racy acidity and culminating in a long, saline finish. Harmonious yet built for the long term, it will richly reward patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPYear after year, Fèvre’s Les Clos is among the great wines of Chablis. In 2023, the pronounced aromas range from grapefruit to nectarine and green apple, laden with pungent, salty mineral notes and a little smoky reduction – a bit of everything, really. The texture is dense, almost impenetrable at this age, but enlivened by a lovely hint of bitterness at the end. It is truly a wine for the ages. Ideally wait a decade before opening; this wine will last at least 40 years.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECAfter the fireworks of the les Preuses and Côte de Bouguerots, I always approach Domaine Fèvre’s les Clos as if there could not possibly be yet another level of quality here, but it always manages to land just a touch higher in the hierarchy than the two magical wines that preceded it in the tasting! The 2023 les Clos is stellar, offering up a vibrant bouquet of apple, pear, lime, beeswax, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones, raw almond, citrus zest and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and perfectly balanced, with a beautiful core of fruit, a superb girdle of acidity, superb mineral drive and cut and a long, seamlessly balanced and complex finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2033-2070)John Gilman | 96 JGA more restrained nose grudgingly exhibits pronounced mineral reduction nuances that add breadth to the markedly floral nose of seashore, iodine and oyster shell scents. I very much like the mouthfeel of the powerful and concentrated larger-scaled flavors that are akin to rolling a small pebble around the mouth while displaying excellent length on the very dry, long, youthfully austere and balanced finish that is supported by overtly citrus-tinged acidity. Patience strongly recommended.Burghound | 94 BHA glowing lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very backward at first, less demonstrative than Preuses. A greater richness of texture than Côte Bouguerots to add to the chiselled white fruit intensity and them a gorgeous, concentrated succulent aftertaste without sucrosity. Good acidity at the back. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from 4 hectares of vines, mostly at the top of the slope on limestone-rich soils. Oyster shell and light sea spray scents on the nose entwined with hints of orange pith and wild mint. The palate is very concentrated and intense, more so than William Fèvre’s other Grand Cru. Very harmonious with a poised, stem ginger tinged-finish that lingers long in the mouth. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMA chalky, stony mineral element leads off, with peach, yellow plum and orange Creamsicle, plus touches of herbs. This is supple and juicy, with charm through the persistent, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2034. 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSDelicate aromas of lemon blossom, green apple and honeysuckle waft from the glass buttressed by zested orange peel. Fresh and bright on the palate, the wine is steely in texture with gentle acidity that refreshes without making itself the center of attention. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Didier Séguier has crafted an absolutely brilliant example of Valmur in 2023. The wine delivers superb complexity in its nose of pear, green apple, fresh lime, a beautiful base of chalky soil tones, raw almond, citrus blossoms and a touch of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and impeccably balanced, with a gorgeous core of succulent fruit, a great girdle of acidity, superb mineral drive and grip and a long, vibrant and very precise finish. (Drink between 2033-2070).John Gilman | 95 JGSourced from parcels just beneath the forest, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur opens with aromas of white flowers, pear and lemon oil, mingling with notes of oyster shell. Medium- to full-bodied, it reveals a chalky core and a layered, textural palate laden with racy acidity, concluding with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThis wine knows its own strength but doesn’t flaunt it. Aromas of freshly-sliced golden apple, bread dough and lemon tart open on the nose complemented by white-peach blossom. The palate echoes the nose in equal proportion along with dried hay, forest floor and zested lemon peel.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe 2023 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru comes from the top sector on the incline with a south-east facing orientation on a vein of marl. That scent of shucked oyster shell permeates the nose and puts it above Vaudésir in terms of complexity. A superb reduction. The palate is taut and fresh, more complex and certainly more saline. There’s a bit of meanness on the finish, but that is not written pejoratively. For those seeking more traditional Chablis this vintage.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMA laserlike profile tries to keep the lid on flavors of yellow flowers, quince, apple and bitter grapefruit. A mineral vein emerges on the finish, driven by vibrant acidity. Balanced and long overall; this just needs a year or two to relax. Best from 2027 through 2039. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSRipe and airy if more restrained aromas are comprised by notes of green fruit, quinine, tidal pool, citrus rind and a touch of oyster shell. Much like the Bougros there excellent volume to the rich, even plush, broad-shouldered flavors coat the palate with dry extract before culminating in serious, compact, youthfully austere and built-to-age finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. This also has fine upside potential.Burghound | 93 BHRecently racked so a bit cloudy. Blocks the nose. A vast raft of white fruit, very spicy, liquorice notes as well, a volume of fruit over and above the Vaudésir, I can see why it is served afterwards. Quality reduction at the back, Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Jun 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JM