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The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet opens in the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, beeswax, oyster shell, wet chalk and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and strikingly intense, it’s taut and chiseled, with tangy acids and huge reserves of concentration, concluding with a pungently chalky finish. As I’ve written before, Séchet—where Dauvissat owns a 0.8-hectare parcel—is located in the Vaillons Valley, but its windier situation and soils richer in active limestone mean it’s typically more tensile and incisive than the other climats that make up Vaillons. Technically retired but very much a continuing presence at his eponymous domaine, Vincent Dauvissat—who forsook a career as a shepherd to become one of France’s most celebrated vignerons—couldn’t disguise his satisfaction as we tasted his recently bottled 2019 portfolio. After some discussion, we settled on the 1989 vintage ("but tighter and more incisive") as a possible analogy for 2019’s hyper-concentrated, ripe, but all the while classically Chablisien style. In any case, they’re some of the wines of the vintage and are well worth seeking out. Readers will remember that farming here is organic but without certification. The harvest is by hand, and the wines ferment in tank before racking to barrel with the lees (Raveneau’s Chablis, by contrast, are racked to barrel more or less without their lees), spending a second winter in wood before bottling. A first bottling, destined for the American market. | 94 RP The 2019 Chablis Séchets 1er Cru has an elegant and more floral bouquet compared to Vincent Dauvissat’s other 2019s, beautifully defined and offering baked apple, pear and white flower scents. The palate is well balanced with a spicy opening, plus hints of stem ginger and walnut. Quite tensile and full on the finish. Good potential here.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA markedly citrusy and noticeably cooler nose combines notes of mineral reduction with those of pear and apple confit. There is again very good volume and mid-palate density on the seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that are also quite dry on the balanced finale. This is a powerful Séchet that is even more robust and one that will need to add depth with age, but it should do just that if given a chance.Burghound | 92 BH

I also revisited the 2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Grands Picotins from bottle, and it’s showing just as well as it did from barrel and tank. Bursting with notes of plums, raspberries, orange rind, warm spices and rose petals—its fruit tones having modulated from black in the direction of red in the intervening year since I last encountered it—it’s a medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy wine whose immediate charm almost risks distracting from impressive concentration and length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

Pale lemon colour, racy and fruity together, quite exuberant, a little warmth but the fruit is in the lead and it finishes cleanly on the minerals, with very good length. Long slow fermentation through to the next harvest. This works very well. Tasted: June 2021.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

The juicy and chewy unoaked red 2019 Señorío de P. Peciña Cosecha Tinto has bright ripe fruit and an earthy touch, a medium body and soft tannins that give it a supple texture. It’s a blend of Tempranillo with 3% Garnacha and 2% Graciano fermented with indigenous yeasts and kept in tank until bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP(Rioja “Cosecha”- Bodegas Señorío Pedro Peciña (Rioja Alta)) The 2019 Rioja “Cosecha” from Bodegas Peciña is a lovely wine, with plenty of black fruit informing both the nose and the palate. The bouquet is bright and jumps from the glass in a mix of black cherries, dark berries, cigar smoke, just a touch of Rioja spice tones and a good base of soil. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied and tangy, with a fine core of ripe fruit, good focus and grip, moderate tannins and a long, well-balanced finish. This is still a young wine, but it is eminently drinkable already and will only get better with a bit of bottle age. This augurs extremely well for the Crianzas, Reservas and Gran Reservas we will see down the road from the 2019 vintage, as this wine is really excellent for its level! (Drink between 2021-2040)John Gilman | 90 JG

A slightly cooler and higher-toned if less spicy nose reflects notes of various red berries, especially cherry, along with plenty of earth is again trimmed in enough wood to notice. There is fine volume to the round, fleshy and suave medium weight flavors that exhibit good power on the lingering finish that also displays hints of warmth and bitter cherry pit character. This broad-shouldered effort is going to require at least moderate patience.Burghound | 92 BH

Sweet berries and plums with some rose-petal and stem undertones. Full-bodied with round tannins and delicious fruit, with a light vanilla undertone at the end. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 91 JSThe 2019 Noaillac retains the superb bouquet from barrel, featuring blackberry and bilberry fruit, ripe and generous, while maintaining fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. Classic in style, and a little fleshier than before, with black pepper and cedar on the finish. An excellent Noaillac.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 2019 Noaillac is showing better than I perceived shortly after bottling. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of minty red berries, cassis, pencil shavings and loamy soil, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and elegant, with an attractive core of fruit, refined tannins and a penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Poitevin has a perfumed, floral bouquet with more red fruit than I observed from barrel, showing fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very cohesive and harmonious. There’s just a touch of graphite on the finish. Stylish, top-notch Poitevin.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 2019 Poitevin is performing better than it did when I tasted it earlier this year, when I suspect it was still shut down after bottling. Opening in the glass with attractive aromas of orange zest, sweet red berries, petals and spices, it’s medium-bodied, lively and elegant, with lovely purity of fruit and nicely integrated structure.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Notes of peonies, rose petals, raspberries, orange oil and spices introduce the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Boudriotte, a medium to full-bodied, pretty and perfumed wine that’s seamless and elegant, concluding with a long, perfumed finish. It’s well worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPOpulent, this red features cherry, blackberry, spices and a flash of iron, with plush texture and solid structure. Revealing excellent balance, this fades gracefully with the fruit, mineral and spice notes. Drink now through 2032.Wine Spectator | 92 WSPungent aromas of matchstick, petrol and a phenolic hint precede rich, robust and concentrated medium-bodied flavors that flash evident power on the mildly warm and slightly rustic finale. This is solidly constituted and should repay mid-term cellaring out to about 10 years.Burghound | 91 BH

This accessible, forward Bourgogne Pinot Noir is made in a Côte de Beaune style, using grapes from Santenay Premier Cru, Chassagne and Volnay village sites. No new wood is used in the maturation, allowing the very pretty cherry fruit to shine through, sustained by a fine line of tannin on the palate. (Drink between 2021-2029)Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages was showing a bit of reduction on the nose. Meanwhile, the medium-bodied palate offers supple tannins, quite fresh and well balanced. Lightly spiced with white pepper and clove toward the finish, showing very good persistence in the mouth. This is an excellent Côte de Nuits-Villages.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint-Etienne is much more backward on the nose compared to the Marsannay Village, slightly earthy black fruit and sous-bois emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, citrus-driven opening, tangy marmalade infusing the black fruit, and graphite toward the tensile finish. I appreciate the focus and harmony of this cuvée, which should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM(Marsannay “Champs Saint Etienne”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Champs Saint Etienne bottling from the Roty family is made from a parcel of vines that are over fifty years of age. The 2019 version is another excellent Marsannay in the making, delivering a fine bouquet of black cherries, red plums, smoked meats, a fine base of soil, a touch of cocoa powder, gentle new oak tones and an exotic (at least from Marsannay) floral topnote that recalls both lavender and eucalyptus. On the palate the wine is complex, pure and full, with excellent mid-palate depth, lovely soil signature and balance, refined tannins and a long, complex and quite classy finish. (Drink between 2024-2050)John Gilman | 91 JGThe 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint Etienne is showing well, revealing aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals and licorice, framed by a discreet touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, chalky tannins, it’s mineral and precise, as it so often is.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is limpid in color. It presents an enticing mix of red and black fruit, rose petal and violet aromas. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine grip, and quite saline, leading to a lovely savory finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Les Clos du Jeu" Villages Red) An even more complex nose offers up markedly ripe yet fresh notes of herbal tea, forest floor, plum, red and dark raspberry, violet and earth, all of which is trimmed in nuances of wood. The succulent and slightly bigger-bodied flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel along with good minerality, all wrapped in an impressively complex and persistent finish. While this possesses even denser tannins, the borderline creamy mouthfeel should permit this beauty of a Marsannay to be approachable after only 5 to 7 years of bottle age. Well worth considering. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries and loamy soil, framed by a deft touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it’s supple and layered, uniting upfront charm with aging potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP(Marsannay “Clos de Jeu”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Clos de Jeu will also be promoted eventually to premier cru and it too is showing its lovely potential in this 2019 bottling from Domaine Roty. The nose jumps from the glass in a complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, smoked meats, a touch of licorice, a fine base of soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy in personality, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JG

A highlight this year is the 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, a lovely wine that opens in the glass with notions of cassis, plums, sweet berries and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, lively mid-palate, it’s a serious effort, built for the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy has quite an expressive, slightly toasty bouquet of lavish black fruit laced with blood orange and graphite notes. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The oak is quite noticeable at the moment and will require 4–5 years to be assimilated. Quite dense on the finish. A more sinewy Marsannay from Roty.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

The entry-level red 2019 Las Cabañuelas is a surprise. They looked for freshness through blending different vineyards. It’s 13.5% alcohol, aromatic, floral and expressive with some herbal hints. This has more tannin than the 2018, and the tannic structure is quite serious; there’s also vibrant acidity and a long, tasty, almost salty finish. This is a bargain; it really over-delivers. 7,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

Introducing the 2019 Chablis are aromas of beeswax, dried white flowers and oyster shell dominating youthfully discreet notions of citrus oil and fresh bread in an already complex bouquet. A medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping wine, this is fleshier and more textural than its Petit Chablis counterpart—though it’s just as chiseled—concluding with a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Chablis Village has an intriguing nutty and slightly smoky bouquet. The palate is lively on the entry, with a superb line of acidity, and quite saline in the mouth, leading to a brisk, energetic finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM(Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Villages White) Here too there is very fine typicity with its ripe but cool nose of white peach, pear, iodine and pretty floral nuances that also include a whiff of citrus confit. There is equally fine volume to the rich yet well-detailed flavors that flash a lovely mineral streak on the refreshingly dry finale. Good stuff in a robust and powerful style that should repay mid-term aging. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 90 BH

Matured for one year in barrel and six months in tank, the 2019 Montagny 1er Cru delivers aromas of pear, peach and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and charming, with a satiny attack and mouthwatering acids, it’s the most open-knit, giving white in the cellar, and it’s drinking well out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPPurchased fruit, blended from two sites - L’Épaule and Creux de Beauchamp - planted with old vines. Both vineyards are densely planted and propagated using massale selection, to give super-ripe grapes with aromas of apple and just a bit of spice. A long maturation on the lees gives this wine a density and supple texture that is truly appealing. Drinking Window 2021 - 2029.Decanter | 90 DEC

An alluring array of ripe red-berry and plum aromas with a floral, violet-like edge and appealing oak influence, too. The palate has a very plush, open feel with medium body and a fresh, juicy finish. Poached red-berry finish. So charming. Discreetly brilliant blending at work here. A blend of malbec 75% bonarda 19% and petit verdot 6%. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThe subtle, balanced and elegant 2019 DV Catena Tinto Histórico was produced with a blend of 75% Malbec, 19% Bonarda and 6% Petit Verdot, and each grape seems to contribute nicely to the blend, making it balanced, harmonious and complex and especially very likeable and drinkable. It has moderate alcohol, round tannins and a lively and fresh mouthfeel. 117,600 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91+ RPA blend of 75% Malbec, 19% Bonarda, and 6% Petit Verdot from different terroirs – Valle de Uco, Luján de Cuyo and Rivadavia – aged for 12 months in barrels used in varying amounts in different locations, this is a red that evokes the profile of another time, hence the name. The nose presents sweet and sour cherry and plum followed, by an indulgent expression and fleshy mouthfeel wrapped in a fresh coating. The tannins come out at the end, tightening things up without going too far. For classic tastes.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru, aged in 50% new oak, has an intense bouquet of floral and violet aromas joined by dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied and quite mineral-driven, with gentle grip and a savory, earthy, quite broody finish. This should be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits St. Georges "Les Boudots" 1er Cru Red) This is also notably ripe with its blend of plum, dark raspberry, range of spice elements and an exotic tea nuance. There is very good freshness and vibrancy to the delicious medium weight plus flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the dusty, moderately austere and firm but not rigid finale. This will need at least a few years to develop better depth and shed some of its tannic spine. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2019 Chablis Boucheron, which had been in barrel since March, has a pretty nose of expressive yellow flowers mixed with honeysuckle and light jasmine scents. The palate is lightly spiced on the entry, edgy and tensile, with a vibrant peppery finish. Good potential – lots of energy locked up in this Chablis.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The white 2019 Peñalba López Vino Blanco is still sold as Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, as it’s a blend of Albillo Mayor, Albillo Real, Viura and Chardonnay; but it’s a full-fledged Ribera del Duero otherwise, as it was produced with grapes from their estate vineyards in the Finca Torremilanos. Like all of their wines, it’s certified organic and biodynamic. It fermented and matured in oak barrels for 17 months, a much longer élevage than before. It has moderate alcohol and very good acidity coupled with some creamy hints, white flowers, pollen and spices. It was bottled without added sulfites, which gives it a somewhat wild profile, and it has character and something intriguing about it, with a tasty palate, long and tasty. 8,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Enriching blackcurrant, floral and fresh thyme aromas; glossy and slick with mouthwatering orange peel acidity and a succulent texture. Drinking Window 2021 - 2028.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères has a delightful, clean and precise bouquet with vibrant citrus fruit, mirabelle and a touch of juniper. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, orange zest and apricot, poised and focused towads the finish that lingers in the mouth. Fine tension here. Excellent. Vinous Media | 91 VMPale lime and lemon, this starts quietly (cold sample) but does not take long to build, floral, cow parsley and elderflower, racy and lacy, chiselled, showing the class of what is surely the finest village vineyard in Puligny. Tasted: 10/1/2021.Jasper Morris | 91 JMNotably more elegant aromas feature notes of exceptionally pretty white orchard fruit, citrus blossom and carnation along with a hint of just sliced fennel. The beautifully textured middle weight flavors possess much better density on the bitter lemon-inflected finale. This could use better depth, but more will almost certainly develop with a few years of keeping.Burghound | 90 BH

A fine Chablis which manages to be both powerful and concentrated, yet still retains a lovely lift. Plenty of acidity and distinctive mineral flavours on the palate, along with some spiced, confit lemon character to finish. Will age well.Decanter | 93 DECDauvissat’s 2020 Chablis bursts with aromas of crisp green apple, white flowers, wet stones, oyster shell and struck match. Medium to full-bodied, taut and racy, it’s deep and incisive, with impeccable Chablisien credentials and a long, intensely mineral finish. As usual, it’s the reference point for the appellation.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe Dauvissat family’s 2020 Chablis AC is also excellent, showing of the purity of the vintage on both the nose and palate. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a stylish blend of lemon, pear, a lovely base of limestone, just a touch of iodine and a topnote of paraffin. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and vibrant, with a fine core, excellent wet stone mineral drive, bright acids and impeccable balance on the long, focused and complex finish. This has a bit more mid-palate depth than the Petit Chablis and will have a far longer shelf life. Fine juice. (Drink between 2024 - 2045)John Gilman | 91 JGThe 2020 Chablis Village has a fragrant orange blossom bouquet, delicate at first, then gaining in intensity and revealing touches of white tea. The palate is well balanced with markedly more weight than the Petit Village. A very subtle spearmint trait toward the finish lends another layer of complexity. This only just has its nose ahead of the Petit Chablis.Vinous Media | 88-90 VMA more restrained but equally fresh nose features notes of green fruit, oyster shell and lemon-lime wisps along with a very subtle dollop of menthol. There is excellent intensity to the sleek, detailed and delicious medium-weight flavors that terminate in a clean, dry and sneaky long finish. Excellent quality here for its level.Burghound | 90 BHThis feels like quite a big step up. More density, pure white fruit, super balance here, and admirable persistence. Above all a sense of harmony. A classic Vincent Dauvissat Chablis to be appreciated over the next decade. Drink from 2024-2030. Tasted: June 2022.Jasper Morris | 90 JM