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The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques is beautiful, offering up aromas of sweet dark berries, licorice and petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and textural palate that’s rich and fleshy, with lively acids and powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has more mineralité and terroir expression on the nose compared to the Gevrey 1er Cru, with blackcurrant, raspberry and crushed violet scents emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, firm structure and a healthy dash of black pepper on the powerful finish. Time will tame this Lavaux Saint-Jacques. There is good potential here, but be patient.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMHere too there is just enough wood in evidence to merit mentioning on the wonderfully fresh and more deeply pitched nose of wild dark currant, plum and plenty of sauvage character. There is more volume still even though the medium-bodied flavors are not especially dense, all wrapped in a powerful, punch and mineral-driven overtly austere finish that delivers excellent length. This is lovely and very Lavaut in style and feel.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie shows a patina of new oak on the nose (30%), though it combines with the lifted raspberry and blueberry fruit. It is showier than the Village Cru. The palate is medium-bodied and harmonious with good weight. There are fine "shoulders" here with a similarly peppery finish to the Village, but this will need a couple of years in bottle to assimilate the wood.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie opens in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries, vine smoke and spices. Medium to full-bodied, dense and layered, it’s lively and concentrated, with a more muscular, structured profile than the blended Gevrey bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPFirm reduction presently renders the nose impossible to read. More interesting are the supple but punchy medium-bodied flavors that possess good detail and slightly better mid-palate density while delivering solid power on the rustic, serious and firmer finale. This is very Gevrey in character and at least some patience would be a good idea and overall, this too is a very good villages.Burghound | 89-91 BH

The 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a backward nose despite aeration, but it’s still nicely defined. Dark berry fruit and a touch of white pepper dominate, with hints of blue fruit emerging later. The medium-bodied palate features slightly chalky tannins and is more saline than the Chapelle-Chambertin. There is impressive precision and tension here, plus plenty of backbone on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru is a beauty, bursting with notes of plums, red berries, orange zest and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it’s suave and sensual, with polished tannins and a vibrant core of fruit, concluding with a perfumed finish. As usual, it’s the most ethereal, elegant wine in the Dugat cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPFirm reduction overshadows the underlying fruit today. More interesting are the elegant and beautifully refined, if decidedly punchy, flavors that exude evident minerality on the sleek, precise, moderately austere and impressively long and powerful finish. This is gorgeous and quite classy. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 93-96 BH

From a vineyard that was originally planted in 1982, with 12 feet spacing between the rows, the 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard boasts a youthful ruby red color and lifts with notes of cranberries, cinnamon, clove, dusty earth, and minty herbs. The energy of the palate is fantastic, with salty minerality, refreshing acidity, and a long, energetic finish. It’s packed with tension and should only improve over the next several years with some patience. This was my favorite in the range at this tasting, Drink it over the coming 20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDAn elegant, delicious and structured medium-bodied wine with pleasing aromas of bright raspberries, strawberries, crushed rose petals, pink peppercorns and some cool blue fruit. A nervy backbone with fine, chalky, mouth-filling tannins and a zesty finish that goes on and on. Drinkable now, but it will age wonderfully. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSMarjorie is part of the Cristom heritage, with the original planting dating back to 1982, first planted on its own roots and eventually replanted vine by vine. The 2023 is made with 45% whole cluster. It’s a small block, so they’re careful with it. This vintage was made after half of the block was removed. There is an umami character to the Majorie Pinot Noir aromatics, a depth showing salty brine. It always has fleshy red fruits, blood orange, and soaring acids accenting mint leaves and herbs. It’s spicy and salty through the finishDecanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard is youthfully understated and coy, blending dusty floral tones with dried strawberries and nuances of autumnal spice. Harmonious and pure in style, it offers vivid raspberry fruit elevated by a hint of sour citrus as a collection of fine-grained tannins adds cheek-puckering tension through the close. Spicy and exceptionally long, the 2023 finishes structured with a tart blackberry twang. Patience is required.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard was fermented with 45% whole clusters and matured for 18 months in 31% new French oak. It has layered, savory scents of mushrooms, flint and pipe tobacco over a core of red cherry, blackberry and orange peel. The medium-bodied palate pairs earth-laced flavors with pleasantly rustic, chalky tannins. It’s balanced by bright acidity and has a long, layered finish. 636 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWell-framed and tightly focused, with raspberry and red currant flavors that take on forest floor and black tea as this gathers tension toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2034. 636 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Made from a single vineyard of very old vines, some almost centenarians, Garrus is the pinnacle of the Esclan estate wines and, although it’s very early days, I have a feeling that, like Les Clans, it has reached new heights in the 2023 vintage. It’s liltingly fragrant and floral on the nose – a little prettier, more elegant and precise than Les Clans 2023 – while the palate has riveting purity and tension. It has succulent, scented white peach fruit and a mouthwateringly saline, mineral drive. The oak is controlled and the wine is still tightly wound, but there’s no mistaking the density – or the energy, length and refinement. If you drink it this year (2025), allow it time to open up in the glass or consider decanting it.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECA splendid rosé, driven and tense. It shows notes of lemon tea, melon, fresh apricots, wild herbs and some rocks. Medium- to full-bodied with bright acidity. Seductive and succulent, with a stream of acidulated fruit on the palate framed harmoniously and funneling into the long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSLively aromas of candied peach with a touch of grapefruit and vanilla. The palate is creamy and the vanilla from the oak works well in this highly structured rosé. Drink summer 2026. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEFleshy yellow plum, cherry and clementine notes are salty and concentrated in this lushly styled, delicious rosé. Much more than a poolside sipper, this brims with range, depth and energy, while heather, chamomile and saline energy grace the drawn-out, saline-streaked finish. Grenache, Rolle and Syrah. Drink now through 2028. 3,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Last year, Álvaro Palacios defined the 2023 Moncerbal as juicy and crystalline, an energetic red from 2.1 hectares in this paraje from Corullón where the soils are shallow and the vines are on steep slopes at 610 to 730 meters above sea level. It’s 92% Mencía and 8% Jerez that fermented with some full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats with manual punching down of the cap. Like most of the 2023s, it had an élevage of around 10 months and has contained alcohol, 13%, and in this case a slightly lower pH, 3.6. It’s paler and also the most aromatic, floral, ethereal and insinuating. This is a vineyard that excels in less warm vintages, but it’s also a vineyard that has suffered a lot from the drought in the last few years and needs some time to recover. Still, this has the textbook herbal side, with finesse and precision. It’s perfumed, floral and showy, with notes of tangerine peel and also fennel and aniseed, pungent, mysterious and intoxicating... There is a transparency, symmetry and elegance. This is super approachable already. 6,446 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTasted en primeur and, as with Villa de Corullón, this Moncerbal was a little reduced on the nose. In contrast, the palate was remarkable: alight with vivid acidity, bright cherry and pomelo fruits, wrapped with notes of creamy chocolate and structured by very fine tannin. Enjoy it soon, but will also benefit from ageing.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Moncerbal is a Mencía from Corullón in Bierzo. It opens with pomegranate and blueberry notes, evolving toward wild herbs, a touch of sun-warmed cherry and a hint of laurel. The palate shows a delicate talc-like texture and a gentle tightness that gains energy from the interplay of alcohol and freshness. Moderate yet expressive, it presents a compact character within the Bierzo context.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM

The village-level Chablis from Billaud-Simon is a classic expression of the terroir, with aromas of lemon peel and white flowers and a fine, silky texture. The acidity is balanced if not pronounced, giving the wine finesse without a lot of tension. Régisseur Olivier Bailly notes that this final year of organic conversion was a struggle with the weather, but he is pleased with the final blend, which included 25% cask-fermented wine.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

This is a blend of Le Charlemagne, and Hautes Mourottes, which from 2024 Pierre-François will make separately, calling the former Charlemagne and the latter Corton-Charlemagne. In 2023 there are eight barrels worth, made in two new barrels, two older barrels and a concrete egg. These have been racked to tank since just after the harvest. Pale in colour, stony with a little toast also. Crisp white orchard fruit with a little flesh behind, and good tension. Nicely balanced at 13.5% alcohol. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JM

The 2023 Les Boucauds is a rounded, full style from a clay-chalk parcel. This is open and approachable from the off, with a touch of alcohol-tinged heat. The richness of the clay provided a sense of volume on the palate but it’s not loud. There’s lovely richness of texture after spending 14-16 months on lees. The 2023 has fine talc and floral perfume lingering on the long finish.Vinous Media | 92 VMA richly styled version, with hints of warm hay and beeswax atop a core of apple and preserved lemon. Waxy in feel, with real weight to the lush palate. Savory, succulent acidity slices through, maintaining balance and tension. Delicious through the long, mineral-rich, salty finish, where there’s a hint of blanched almond. Drink now through 2030. 3,500 cases made, 700 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Lush and seductive on the nose, this wine teases with layers of lemon cream, ripe orange and brown butter, all wrapped in an exotic, musky mango allure that feels almost decadent. On the palate, it glides across the tongue with juicy citrus and white flowers. It has a buttery richness and a delicious mouth-watering mineral edge that begs for another sip that leads to a long lingering finish that has echoes of orange zest. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 94+ SP

Rich, powerful and gorgeous, drenched in fruity, savory, mushroomy flavors on a full body and super-smooth tannins. It is deep in black cherry, blackcurrant, cedar and pine character that expands on the palate and lingers in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSA touch more saturated red in color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Laurène is deeper and more layered in the glass, with notes of pine, sage, ripe cherries, fresh leather, and pressed floral perfume. It has a refined and plush texture, with ripe tannins and elegant notes of dark earth. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2023 Pinot Noir Laurène is darkly floral, with a coy mix of dusty lavender and violets complementing dried black cherries. A round and supple persona soothes as ripe wild berry fruits wash across a stream of cool-toned acidity. Stainingly long, the finish boasts a pleasant black-tea-like bitterness that tugs at the cheeks. Classic to the core.Vinous Media | 94 VMPrecise and vibrant, with sleek flavors of cherry and raspberry highlighted by stony mineral and black tea accents as this gathers richness toward refined tannins Drink now through 2034. 3,725 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

So pretty, charming and elegant, with floral aromas, light tannins and quiet vibrancy. Fresh raspberries, sour cherries, red cherries, rose petals and minerals give it complexity and appeal. Finesse, nerve and great balance. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSA bright red color, the 2023 Pinot Noir Roserock Zephirine offers focused and expressive notes of wild raspberries, framboise, rosy perfume, and sweet herbs. Medium-bodied, it has ripe tannins and an approachable feel, with its underlying mineral focus shining through the midpalate and finish. It’s delicious now but will only improve over the next 6-7 years and drink well over the coming 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2023 Pinot Noir Zéphirine wafts up with an understated blend of dried flowers, spiced citrus and wild strawberries. A stern mineral core and brisk acidity enliven the tart wild berry fruits. Youthful tension pinches at the cheeks, leaving angular tannins and admirable freshness.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Old vines directly on the mother rock. Mid lemon yellow, a bouquet which is more about ripe citrus and maybe some herbal notes, verbena. Striking linear energy on the palate, the ripe citrus continuing through to the finish. All the Chassagne-Montrachet 1ers crus are quite different, which is a very positive point in favour of the vintage (and Adrien’s skills!) Drink from 2028-2034. Jasper Morris | 93 JMAromas of pear, pastry cream and white flowers introduce the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, a medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless wine that’s pure and racy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPA slightly cooler and airier nose is comprised by notes of just sliced citrus and apple along with pretty floral nuances. The middle weight flavors aren’t not as rich or powerful though they are finer with a subtle minerality adding a sense of lift to the vibrant, balanced and long finale that isn’t quite as complex. While this isn’t quite as interesting as the Fairendes, it still merits interest.Burghound | 91 BH

Mid lemon and lime. A richer soil here than most Puligny, explains the weight. Several layers to this, a fine thread of acidity running through the middle alongside fresh peaches and more classical orchard fruits. Purchased 50 years ago by grandfather Jean because nobody else wanted it! How times have changed.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru was picked a couple of days earlier than the Clos des Murées. Despite being opened the evening before my visit, there is still some reduction on the nose. The palate is taut, fresh, quite nutty and Meursault-like in style with an energetic, persistent finish. Give this a year or two in bottle—it is very promising.Vinous Media | 91+ VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a little more mineralité on the nose than the Vergers. Its bouquet contains light hints of clementine and beeswax aromas. The palate is well balanced, fresh and concentrated with a slightly viscous opening. It just needs a little more terroir to shape the finish.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Starts off fluid in feel, offering a silky profile of star fruit, peach, waxy pear and white blossoms, with good ripeness and a hint of blanched almond set against a racy beam of succulent acidity. Its steely spine of flint is pronounced and builds in intensity toward the finish, lined in river stone and smoke notes. Drink now through 2029. 1,000 cases made, 458 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The most balanced and transparent wine in the range, the 2023 Les Jardinières is showing superbly this year. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of blood orange, elderflower, violets, peonies and dark cherries, it’s medium- to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with a fleshy yet vibrant core of fruit and beautifully integrated tannins. Concluding with a long, perfumed and ethereal finish, this is one of the vintage’s most complete and characterful renditions of Gigondas.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPA juicy, lively and precise Gigondas, showing red berries, blood oranges and baking spices on the nose. Medium-bodied, it has fine tannins and refined texture, silky yet full of verve with a driven and vivid expression. Balanced, fresh and crunchy. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

High-toned, perfumed pomegranate and cranberry fruit with an edge of peony and ginger spice. The texture is silkier than this producer’s Baudes, but it does not have the same depth. The tannins are very fine and Laurent Lignier feels that he will bottle this before spring 2025 to avoid issues with volatility tied to the lower pH this year – he has been buying the fruit for this since 2010 and has noted this tendency in the past.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECMade from purchased grapes, a contract since 2010. Paler colour, raspberry and strawberry, lots of energy, then fractionally earthy in texture but not in taste. Otherwise, the attractive fruit continues on through. Drink from 2030-2035. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMOnce again there is enough wood to merit pointing out framing the pretty and airy essence of spicy red berry scents. The beautifully textured and very supple medium weight flavors flash a subtle bead of minerality on the dusty, balanced and sneaky long finish. This does need better depth so plan on holding it for at least a few years first.Burghound | 90-91 BH

Mid ruby colour. Despite being adjacent to Morey, this has a very Chambolle perfume, generous red fruit with some violets. Definitely some tannins thereafter, with deep cherry notes. Perhaps a little more like the wilder side of Morey on the palate. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMA slightly riper and vaguely liqueur-like nose of various dark berries, warm earth and a floral top note gives way to lilting and delicious middle weight flavors that also contrast somewhat with the moderately rustic and lingering finale that could use better depth.Burghound | 88-90 BH

Deep ruby color. Here too moderate wood is present on the very ripe liqueur-like aromas of black cherry, cassis and warm earth. The succulent and rich though not especially dense medium-bodied flavors do possess a lovely texture that also contrasts somewhat with the youthfully austere and mildly raspy if long finale.Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from purchased fruit. It has a well-knit, focused bouquet with redcurrant and wild strawberry scents. This has fine delineation with a sense of energy. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and vibrant, with supple tannins, although it doesn’t have the complexity of the Mazoyères on the finish.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet that’s quite floral with incense and bergamot tea scents and fruit that blossoms, but only after five minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, tea leaf and bay leaf with a gradual crescendo toward its intense, mineral-driven finish. This is superb.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMDelicious. The classic Clos de la Roche from Domaine Hubert Lignier is impressive, deeply-coloured wine, with a pronounced aroma of black cherries, peony, and spice. The old vines provide small bunches even in 2023, giving a concentration on the palate that impresses in this sunny year. Two-thirds of the grapes were planted by Laurent’s father in 1964-1965; the balance (in Fremières) by his grandfather in 1955. One-third of the harvest was fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask (one-third new).Decanter Magazine | 95 DECTwo thirds comes from Les Monts Luisants, and one third from Les Fremières. A deep crimson/purple. The wonderful bouquet has all the charm in the world plus complexity. Here the richness of the fruit suits the grand cru structure of this wine. Dark berry fruit that flows cross the palate and covers the well-balanced tannins. The 2023 Clos de la Roche has plenty of energy as well as fluidity. Drink from 2033-2042. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMSubtle though still easily perceptible wood influence can be found on the spicy black currant, violet and softly gamy nose. The seductive and caressing but punchy and powerful larger-bodied flavors also conclude in a youthfully austere, serious and compact finale that displays first-rate persistence. The Lignier Clos de la Roche is almost always excellent if given sufficient time in bottle and the 2023 version should honor that tradition as well.Burghound | 92-95 BH

The sumptuous old-vine Hommage MCMLV Clos de la Roche from Domaine Hubert Lignier offers profuse aromas of ripe mulberry and redcurrants accented with a floral note, oak spice and a bright mineral element. The texture is firm and very tannic, but the extract, acidity and fruit are all balanced; this wine seems set to age for decades. The grapes are from 0.27ha planted in the lieu-dit Monts Luisants by Laurent Lignier’s grandparents in 1955, hence the label MCMLV. There are only two barrels from this plot, but it is well worth seeking out.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThe 2023 Clos-de-la-Roche Cuvée MCMLV Grand Cru has more mineral drive on the nose. It has ethereal transparency, intensity and hints of wilted rose petals emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, satin-like texture and gentle but insistent grip. Very long yet tender, this is a magnificent wine in the making.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThis cuvée is taken from a few rows in Les Monts Luisants, a 1955 plantation made by Laurent’s grandfather with massal selection, delivering lots of millerand grapes. More purple than crimson, rather headier, yet all in reds fruit without the darker notes. A youthful energy, with a little more structure as well. The two wines are clearly very different. A lightly menthol touch to finish. Drink from 2033-2045. Tasted Dec 2024.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMIn contrast to the nose of the regular cuvée, here it’s firmly reduced. On the palate though, there is plenty of underlying tension and freshness on the equally scaled flavors that are exceptionally rich, even plush and velvety, while delivering even better depth and persistence on the noticeably firmer finale. This should also age out successfully and is a wine that’s going to need a minimum of at least a decade of patience.Burghound | 93-95 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées comes from vines planted by Laurent Lignier’s grandfather just after the war. Dark berry fruit mixes with iris flower and rooibos on the nose. It is well defined yet understated. The palate is medium-bodied with cranberry and raspberry notes. Touches of rose water come through with time, with fine concentration toward the finish. It’s not quite up there with the 2022 but it comes close.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM