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Nuances of crushed rocks, menthol and citrus-infused blackberries waft up as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is harmonious throughout, lifted yet silky in texture, with a wave of ripe red and black fruits alongside brisk acidity. Crunchy mineral tones add depth toward the minty-fresh close. The 2021 finishes staining and full of youthful tension.Vinous Media | 95+ VMShowing structure and depth, the Voliero 2021 Brunello di Montalcino reflects the balance and power of the vintage with young, firm tannins framing dark fruit flavors of blackcurrant, plum and toasted spice. The tannins are assertive at this stage and will need time to integrate, rewarding patience in the cellar. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and uses dry ice to preserve freshness, followed by 30 months of aging in oak vessels of various sizes, a regimen that underscores varietal character. Production totals 9,300 bottles plus larger formats.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDisplaying a medium red hue, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is expressive on opening, with a brightly spiced nose of dried orange peel, cranberries, redcurrants, dried earth, cinnamon, and clove. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant, with refined tannins, refreshing acidity, and a chalky texture that feels a touch understated at this early stage. On a second tasting, it showed fabulous length, balance, and focus, and it should only get better with another 6-12 months in bottle before drinking beautifully over the coming 12-15 years. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDA classic and spicy wine with aromas of licorice, smoky wood, wild strawberries and red cherries. Full-bodied and crisp, with firm, chalky tannins, savory dried cherry flavors and a tight yet ripe finish. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSAromas of forest floor, ripe black plum, blue flower and a whiff of resin form the nose on the Voliero 2021 Brunello. On the full-bodied palate, velvety tannins envelop succulent black cherry, bitter orange and tobacco. You’ll also notice the warmth of alcohol on the finish. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KO

Here is another masterpiece from vintner Martino Manetti (and winemaker Paolo Salvi, following in the footsteps of long-time key figures Giulio Gambelli and Estate Manager Bruno Bini). The Montevertine 2022 Le Pergole Torte is 100% Sangiovese made in a similar winemaking style as the others, although both botte and barrique are used here. It opens to a dark garnet appearance that is velvety and rich yet shiny on the inside with a ruby brightness that is specific to this Tuscan grape. This is an amazing wine, so precise and balanced. I love the boldness of the vintage, and I am delighted by how elegantly it unfolds over the palate. The wine is contoured and pretty in terms of texture, and yet there are mineral notes that add freshness and vertical lift. This portfolio offers good scale with three wines, an entry-level, middle-level and top-end wine, each offering a distinct identity. Production is 30,000 bottles. This is one of my favorite wines from 2022, a vintage with highs and lows. This is definitely a high.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA spicy and deep wine with licorice and bergamot aromas. The fruit is bright and layered, with plums and red cherries. But it’s on the palate where you feel the quality of this wine. It’s full-bodied with ripe, velvety tannins and long, refreshing acidity. Polished aftertaste. Made for the long haul, but also very drinkable now. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2022 Le Pergole Torte is every bit as magnificent as it was last year. Deep and expansive in the glass, with stunning depth, the 2022 stains the palate with layers of dark fruit, mocha, new leather and cedar. The 2022 starts to blossom with just a bit of time in the glass, leading to a finish that explodes on the back end. As has been the case for some time, the differences between Montevertine and Pergole Torte are increasingly mostly about style. The 2022 spent a year in Damy French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. It will require a number of years to shed some baby fat to be at its most expressive.Vinous Media | 97+ VM