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Based on 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 12% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 Ontogeny shows ripe, sexy levels of blue fruits, darker chocolate, graphite, and even a kiss of minerality. It’s full-bodied, round, lush, and layered, with sweet tannins and a pleasure-bent profile that’s hard to resist. Drink this hedonistic pleasure bomb over the coming 15+ years. As always, this is an absolute brilliant Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that more than delivers the goods. Drink 2025-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2023 Red Wine Ontogeny is bold, punchy and super expressive. A blast of super ripe dark cherry fruit/plum fruit, spice, tobacco and chocolate are all beautifully amplified. Ontogeny delivers tons of Bevan personality and character. Floral and savory overtones extend the long, polished finish. The 2023 benefits from the inclusion of a few lots that I tasted last year separately that were later added into the blend, most notably the two Cabernets from Phelan Vineyard that I reviewed from barrel.Vinous Media | 94 VM

A tiny vineyard of one hectare delivers this firm, medium-bodied red with racy tannins, dark chocolate, iodine and dried strawberries. Creamy and chewy at the same time. Juicy as well. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

A fresh and crunchy white with light lemons, mangoes and bitter limes. It’s medium- to full-bodied with lots of fruit. The hot growing season comes through, but it remains fresh at the end. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2023 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is the richest, broadest wine in the range, bursting with aromas of honeyed pears, white flowers, freshly baked bread and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it’s layered and textural, with a sweet core of fruit that’s balanced by good energy and grip.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2023 Meursault 1er Cru Les Cras is pretty, wafting from the glass with notes of pear, confit lemon, orange zest and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, mineral and chalky, with a sweet core of fruit girdled by bright acids, it’s pure and precise.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPHere too there is a suggestion of the exotic to the aromas of white peach, tangerine, mineral reduction and once again, a hint of phenolic character. This medium weight flavors aren’t quite as dense though they are just a bit finer while offering fine length and an almost palpable sense of minerality on the balanced and youthfully austere finish that, interestingly enough given that this is a premier cru, isn’t quite as structured.Burghound | 91 BH

Aromas of grilled pineapple, kaffir limes, flint and lemon pith. The palate is light-bodied with bright acidity, giving flavors of guavas, lychees and grapefruit. Vibrant and fresh. Drink now.James Suckling | 91 JSAromas of fresh, lively citrus, kumquats, and passionfruit, notes of various layered mint herbs and chamomile tea intertwine with flavors of melon, tangerine, and sedimentary rock roll into a juicy sun-kissed finish. Pair with the beach and friendsWine Enthusiast | 91 WE

The grapefruit and honey aromas of this wine are echoed in its crisp and rounded textures. It is ripe with apple and spice flavors, the wood aging subtly in the background. Drink from 2027. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEWith its lemon rind and grassy notes, this Sauvignon Blanc dominated wine - ever reliable - continues to appeal in 2023, although it does have some varietal aspects that come across as less nuanced when compared to some of its peers. Nonetheless, this is excellent white wine, with grip, juiciness, depth and freshness. To be served confidently with fish in a cream sauce.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECVery bright and mineral with lively citrus-fruit, ginger, white-flower and crushed-stone character. A hint of seashell, too. It’s medium-bodied, fresh and focused with tense acidity and a firm, lightly phenolic finish.James Suckling | 93-94 JSA blend of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Sémillon, the 2023 Carbonnieux Blanc exhibits elegant aromas of pear, white peach, spring flowers and herbs, followed by a medium-bodied, satiny and long texture enhanced by bright acids and a lively mid-palate. It concludes with a long, delicate, mouthwateringly mordant finish, making it a classic white wine from this estate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThe 2023 Château Carbonnieux Blanc is light gold-hued and offer terrific aromatics of ripe citrus, minty herbs, and a kiss of grapefruit. These carry to a medium-bodied white with a round, supple texture, nicely integrated acidity, and outstanding length.Jeb Dunnuck | 90-92 JDThe white 2023 Carbonnieux leaps with notes of lime leaves, Granny Smith apples, and grapefruit, plus touches of white pepper and wet slate. Medium-bodied, the palate is zippy and crisp, with a zesty finish.The Wine Independent | 88-90 TWI

Dill, limes, green ginger and crushed stones on the nose. The palate is extreme, marked by intense mineral tension, pronounced salinity and a delicious severity that sets this wine apart from even the greatest chardonnays of the world. Incredibly fresh and mouthwatering. Spectacular. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2023 Chardonnay Adrianna Vineyard White Bones from Gualtallary, Tupungato, opens with clear notes of huacatay, chamomile and hops. It’s reminiscent of reductive Sauvignon Blanc and layered with green apple, mint and nutty notes. Compared to previous vintages, this is leaner and more vibrant, with fine, chalky grip and medium body. Just a gorgeous wine.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe 2023 Adrianna Vineyard Chardonnay White Bones leads with its quintessentially lifted, vibrant bouquet of citrus rinds, dried spices, white flowers and fresh herbs, continuously developing additional complexity from its biological aging under flor. The palate combines live-wire focus with ethereal richness and a gently creamy core that runs through its mouthwatering and mineral-drenched finish. A fantastic iteration of the exotic, precise profile readers have come to expect from this pioneering Gualtallary Chardonnay reference point.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPOne for the ages from an ageworthy vintage, the 2023 Chardonnay Adrianna Vineyard White Bones is textured, layered, and herbaceous, as all the White Bones wines are. Native thyme accents a medium-bodied, persistently fresh character of lemon crisp that’s complex and lengthy. The oak is well-integrated already, adding to the balanced structure and mouthfeel. This has 20-30 years more to go, with an ideal drinking window of 2030-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThere’s personality and energy to this white that just won’t quit. Opens with aromatically engaging notes of sage, river mint and lime zest that meld seamlessly into a core of green mango, finger lime and passion fruit. The body shows a silky richness, yet without the typical weighty lees or oak flavors, instead building intensity around tense minerality. Picks up a hint of pickled ginger on the lengthy, expressive finish. Drink now through 2040. 500 cases made, 215 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village presents a pretty nose with a mixture of blackcurrant and raspberry fruit. Well defined with nicely integrated oak, it conveys a sense of transparency. Fine tannins frame the palate, offering raspberry and strawberry fruit with a dash of spice on the finish, which is more structured than I expected. Delightful.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries, spices and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural palate. Lively and mouthwatering, it’s an especially charming, giving vintage of the Dugat village bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPA slightly riper nose freely offers up its array of plum, dark currant and more prominent earth influence. There is more size and weight, if not necessary better density, to the sappy, dusty and complex finale that is noticeably firmer. This is a lovely Gevrey villages and worth considering.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Aromas of cherries, raspberries, smoke and spices introduce the 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, a medium to full-bodied, pure and layered wine with a fleshy core of fruit, sweet tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mineral finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru has an elegant bouquet that gains intensity in the glass: black cherry, raspberry and light floral scents of peony and rose petal, all finely delineated. The palate is very silky on the entry with good grip, a little sweeter than the previous vintage, with touches of cassis infusing the red fruit. This builds nicely in the mouth through a slightly confit-like finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA subtle but not invisible application of wood frames the more elegant and slightly cooler nose of newly turned earth, essence of red berries and crushed anise character. The palate feel of the medium weight flavors is also supple but punchy with excellent delineation on the impressively long, youthfully austere and well-balanced finale. This too is worth a look.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques is beautiful, offering up aromas of sweet dark berries, licorice and petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and textural palate that’s rich and fleshy, with lively acids and powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has more mineralité and terroir expression on the nose compared to the Gevrey 1er Cru, with blackcurrant, raspberry and crushed violet scents emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, firm structure and a healthy dash of black pepper on the powerful finish. Time will tame this Lavaux Saint-Jacques. There is good potential here, but be patient.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMHere too there is just enough wood in evidence to merit mentioning on the wonderfully fresh and more deeply pitched nose of wild dark currant, plum and plenty of sauvage character. There is more volume still even though the medium-bodied flavors are not especially dense, all wrapped in a powerful, punch and mineral-driven overtly austere finish that delivers excellent length. This is lovely and very Lavaut in style and feel.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie shows a patina of new oak on the nose (30%), though it combines with the lifted raspberry and blueberry fruit. It is showier than the Village Cru. The palate is medium-bodied and harmonious with good weight. There are fine "shoulders" here with a similarly peppery finish to the Village, but this will need a couple of years in bottle to assimilate the wood.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie opens in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries, vine smoke and spices. Medium to full-bodied, dense and layered, it’s lively and concentrated, with a more muscular, structured profile than the blended Gevrey bottling.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPFirm reduction presently renders the nose impossible to read. More interesting are the supple but punchy medium-bodied flavors that possess good detail and slightly better mid-palate density while delivering solid power on the rustic, serious and firmer finale. This is very Gevrey in character and at least some patience would be a good idea and overall, this too is a very good villages.Burghound | 89-91 BH

The 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a backward nose despite aeration, but it’s still nicely defined. Dark berry fruit and a touch of white pepper dominate, with hints of blue fruit emerging later. The medium-bodied palate features slightly chalky tannins and is more saline than the Chapelle-Chambertin. There is impressive precision and tension here, plus plenty of backbone on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru is a beauty, bursting with notes of plums, red berries, orange zest and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it’s suave and sensual, with polished tannins and a vibrant core of fruit, concluding with a perfumed finish. As usual, it’s the most ethereal, elegant wine in the Dugat cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPFirm reduction overshadows the underlying fruit today. More interesting are the elegant and beautifully refined, if decidedly punchy, flavors that exude evident minerality on the sleek, precise, moderately austere and impressively long and powerful finish. This is gorgeous and quite classy. If you can find it, buy it.Burghound | 93-96 BH

Beautiful, with a ripe, layered style, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc offers honeyed lemon, quince, crushed stone, and floral nuances that develop beautifully with time in the glass. It’s medium to full-bodied, has a deep, layered mouthfeel, beautifully integrated acidity, and a great finish. It has a touch more depth and volume compared to the 2024 and is a sensational white from this fabulous winemaker that will keep for 20+ years if well stored. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA truly stunning white, offering layers of complexity, this is supple and generous, with sun tea and dried herbs cruising alongside warm apple and quince. Round in feel, with flattering notes of macadamia and spices, but this stays fresh. Bitter chamomile and grapefruit pith elements add contrast to the full, salty finish. Drink now through 2035. 500 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThis is a relatively full-bodied wine, with a pear and quince profile, slightly tingling acidity and salinity, and a touch of pink grapefruit. It’s certainly powerful, but it has good freshness and a mineral edge. The very long finish is lifted by the Bourboulenc and Piquepoul. Made from equal parts Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Piquepoul and Picardan; no malo; fermented and aged in stainless steel.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECA creamy, well-rounded yet lively and citrusy white. It shows notes of fresh lemons, grapefruit, dried herbs, fennel and mild spices. It’s medium- to full-bodied. Plenty of volume on the ample palate, harmonious and poised. There is so much texture on the mid-palate with a caressing touch at the edge. Round and aromatic with a fresh, citrusy finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSCrafted from six permitted varieties in equal proportions, co-fermented and cold-settled for one night, the 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc from Clos des Papes exhales a delicate, complex bouquet of fennel, verbena, pear, iodine, herbs and acacia blossoms. Medium to full-bodied, pure and seamless, it’s built around bright acids, a layered, lovely structured texture and a long, ethereal, saline finish. The phenolic aftertaste adds a racy profile that I find particularly appealing.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPVivid honeysuckle, lemon peel, ripe pear and spring blossom introduce the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. Fennel and grapefruit add more layers to what is yet another captivating white Clos des Papes from Paul-Vincent Avril. Medium-bodied and nicely balanced by mild acidity, the 2023 closes with delicate salinity on the persistent finale.Vinous Media | 94 VM

From a vineyard that was originally planted in 1982, with 12 feet spacing between the rows, the 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard boasts a youthful ruby red color and lifts with notes of cranberries, cinnamon, clove, dusty earth, and minty herbs. The energy of the palate is fantastic, with salty minerality, refreshing acidity, and a long, energetic finish. It’s packed with tension and should only improve over the next several years with some patience. This was my favorite in the range at this tasting, Drink it over the coming 20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDAn elegant, delicious and structured medium-bodied wine with pleasing aromas of bright raspberries, strawberries, crushed rose petals, pink peppercorns and some cool blue fruit. A nervy backbone with fine, chalky, mouth-filling tannins and a zesty finish that goes on and on. Drinkable now, but it will age wonderfully. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSMarjorie is part of the Cristom heritage, with the original planting dating back to 1982, first planted on its own roots and eventually replanted vine by vine. The 2023 is made with 45% whole cluster. It’s a small block, so they’re careful with it. This vintage was made after half of the block was removed. There is an umami character to the Majorie Pinot Noir aromatics, a depth showing salty brine. It always has fleshy red fruits, blood orange, and soaring acids accenting mint leaves and herbs. It’s spicy and salty through the finishDecanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard is youthfully understated and coy, blending dusty floral tones with dried strawberries and nuances of autumnal spice. Harmonious and pure in style, it offers vivid raspberry fruit elevated by a hint of sour citrus as a collection of fine-grained tannins adds cheek-puckering tension through the close. Spicy and exceptionally long, the 2023 finishes structured with a tart blackberry twang. Patience is required.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2023 Pinot Noir Marjorie Vineyard was fermented with 45% whole clusters and matured for 18 months in 31% new French oak. It has layered, savory scents of mushrooms, flint and pipe tobacco over a core of red cherry, blackberry and orange peel. The medium-bodied palate pairs earth-laced flavors with pleasantly rustic, chalky tannins. It’s balanced by bright acidity and has a long, layered finish. 636 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWell-framed and tightly focused, with raspberry and red currant flavors that take on forest floor and black tea as this gathers tension toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2034. 636 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Made from a single vineyard of very old vines, some almost centenarians, Garrus is the pinnacle of the Esclan estate wines and, although it’s very early days, I have a feeling that, like Les Clans, it has reached new heights in the 2023 vintage. It’s liltingly fragrant and floral on the nose – a little prettier, more elegant and precise than Les Clans 2023 – while the palate has riveting purity and tension. It has succulent, scented white peach fruit and a mouthwateringly saline, mineral drive. The oak is controlled and the wine is still tightly wound, but there’s no mistaking the density – or the energy, length and refinement. If you drink it this year (2025), allow it time to open up in the glass or consider decanting it.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECA splendid rosé, driven and tense. It shows notes of lemon tea, melon, fresh apricots, wild herbs and some rocks. Medium- to full-bodied with bright acidity. Seductive and succulent, with a stream of acidulated fruit on the palate framed harmoniously and funneling into the long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSLively aromas of candied peach with a touch of grapefruit and vanilla. The palate is creamy and the vanilla from the oak works well in this highly structured rosé. Drink summer 2026. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEFleshy yellow plum, cherry and clementine notes are salty and concentrated in this lushly styled, delicious rosé. Much more than a poolside sipper, this brims with range, depth and energy, while heather, chamomile and saline energy grace the drawn-out, saline-streaked finish. Grenache, Rolle and Syrah. Drink now through 2028. 3,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Last year, Álvaro Palacios defined the 2023 Moncerbal as juicy and crystalline, an energetic red from 2.1 hectares in this paraje from Corullón where the soils are shallow and the vines are on steep slopes at 610 to 730 meters above sea level. It’s 92% Mencía and 8% Jerez that fermented with some full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats with manual punching down of the cap. Like most of the 2023s, it had an élevage of around 10 months and has contained alcohol, 13%, and in this case a slightly lower pH, 3.6. It’s paler and also the most aromatic, floral, ethereal and insinuating. This is a vineyard that excels in less warm vintages, but it’s also a vineyard that has suffered a lot from the drought in the last few years and needs some time to recover. Still, this has the textbook herbal side, with finesse and precision. It’s perfumed, floral and showy, with notes of tangerine peel and also fennel and aniseed, pungent, mysterious and intoxicating... There is a transparency, symmetry and elegance. This is super approachable already. 6,446 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTasted en primeur and, as with Villa de Corullón, this Moncerbal was a little reduced on the nose. In contrast, the palate was remarkable: alight with vivid acidity, bright cherry and pomelo fruits, wrapped with notes of creamy chocolate and structured by very fine tannin. Enjoy it soon, but will also benefit from ageing.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2023 Moncerbal is a Mencía from Corullón in Bierzo. It opens with pomegranate and blueberry notes, evolving toward wild herbs, a touch of sun-warmed cherry and a hint of laurel. The palate shows a delicate talc-like texture and a gentle tightness that gains energy from the interplay of alcohol and freshness. Moderate yet expressive, it presents a compact character within the Bierzo context.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM

This exotic wine boasts aromas of passion fruit, pomelo and ripe yellow plums, touched with oyster shell and a hint of smoky reduction. There is rewarding richness here, but there is also plenty of fresh acidity and energy on the palate. The grapes are from the white marl soils of the well-protected, south-facing slopes in the village of Fleys, not far from the Mont de Milieu; it is one of the warmest premier cru sites on the right bank of the Serein. Open this wine in five years and drink it over the next 20.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECExotic floral notes, passion fruit, nashi pear and gooseberry introduce the bottled 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux, a medium- to full-bodied wine that is elegantly fleshy yet taut and vibrant, concluding with a persistent, grapefruit-inflected finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2023 Chablis Les Fourneaux 1er Cru has an airy, crushed stone- and flint-tinged bouquet that seems to have veered toward a more classical and sapid style since bottling. The palate is bright, well balanced and taut, with lime on the entry and a dash of white pepper toward the finish. Give this 18 to 24 months in bottle to show what it is capable of.Vinous Media | 92 VMA little lemon touch to the nose. Retains a cool clarity, then riper lemon scented fruit on the palate and a nicely balanced finish. Attractive stony rather than saline notes to finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Jun 2025.Jasper Morris | 91 JM