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(Marquis d’Angerville Volnay “Fremiets”) The 2005 Fremiets is also showing atypically black fruity in character, but also offers simply striking focus and purity as well. The bouquet is a mélange of black cherries, plums, bitter chocolate and a truly great expression of minerality. On the palate the wine is medium-full, deep and intensely flavored, with rock solid structure, a sappy core of fruit, and stunning grip on the long, soil-driven and ripely tannic finish. Truly a fine vintage for the Fremiets. (Drink between 2012-2030)John Gilman | 92 JG(Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Frémiets 1er Cru Red) This is more discreet and reserved with wonderfully pure notes of red, black and blue fruits plus a lovely hint of violets that sit atop dusty, refined and gorgeously delineated flavors supported by an almost pungent minerality on the textured, long and explosive finish. This is more concentrated and structured than usual and should live for a very long time. (Drink starting 2013)Burghound | 91-93 BH

(Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay "Frémiets" 1er 1er Cru Red) Here the nose is appreciably fresher and also displays notes of red currant though the minerality now extends to the aromas and in hallmark Frémiets style, also suffuses the rich, supple and refined middle weight flavors blessed with ample amounts of dry extract that buffer the moderately firm tannins on the impressively long finish. The minerality is so strong that there is a Chablis-like saline character. A classy effort of finesse. (Drink starting 2016)Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2009 Volnay Fremiet is beautifully pointed. Sweet dark cherries, plums, violets, graphite and licorice are woven together in an articulate, chiseled Volnay that impresses for its energy, delineation and sheer underlying structure. All the elements are in the right place. This is a terrific showing from d’Angerville and one of the few 2009s that actually needs time to come together.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2009 Volnay En Caillerets bursts from the glass with a huge, explosive bouquet. Blackberries, blueberries, hard candy and spices are just a few of the notes that emerge from this layered, intense Burgundy. There is plenty of inner tension here, in fact the Caillerets appears to be holding back a lot of its potential. It is a dazzling wine though, and one built for the long haul. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.Robert Parker | 94 RP(Domaine Pousse d’Or Volnay "En Caillerets" 1er 1er Cru Red) A discreet touch of wood frames notably elegant aromas of plum, violets and stone where the latter element also suffuses the rich, fleshy and delicious middle weight flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract that buffers the moderately firm tannins on the impressively persistent finish. This should be lovely in time. (Drink starting 2017)Burghound | 92 BH(Domaine de la Pousse D’Or Volnay en Caillerets) Bright fresh ruby. Aromas of cassis, mint and game, along with a liqueur-like note of black cherry. Sweet and concentrated, round and full. Wonderfully ripe without being roasted, with an element of sweetness giving this wine considerable early appeal. Substantial sweet tannins are buried under the wine’s fruit today on the long finish.Vinous Media | 91 VM

A rich style, this white features lemon, peach and spice flavors, all backed by bright acidity. Balanced, leaving a chalky, even tannic impression on the long finish. Best from 2021 through 2029. 30 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSIf you like bold dry whites, then try this. Quite a tannic white Burgundy, but with richness that has a very positive impact on the wine. Plenty of citrus, plus some hazelnut and chalky character. Some real drive at the finish that promises a long life. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSIt’s always interesting to compare and contrast Albert Bichot’s Clos des Mouches white with the one from Joseph Drouhin, as this comes from a slightly higher parcel on the slope. The oak is a little more clamorous here and needs more time to integrate, but this is tauter and crunchier with a little less in terms of mid-palate weight. Drinking Window 2020 - 2024.Decanter | 92 DEC(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Beaune "Clos des Mouches" 1er Cru White) An overtly floral nose offers up notes of pearl, apple and citrus where the latter can also be found on the round, delicious and once again generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that deliver perfectly good if not truly distinguished depth though I do like the length. Note that my rating once again offers the benefit of the doubt that more complexity will develop if this is allowed a few years of cellar time. (Drink starting 2022)Burghound | 90 BH

The Clos des Mouches made by Joseph Drouhin may be more famous, but Bichot’s parcel of 0.7ha, situated in the highest part of the Premier Cru, is pretty impressive in its own right. Bright, focused and chiselled, it’s the sort of white that wouldn’t look out of place in Puligny-Montrachet, combining citrus, wet stone and aniseed flavours.Drinking Window 2021 - 2028Decanter | 94 DECA creamy-textured white with sliced apples, pears, cream and some lemon and lime rind. Hints of morning yogurt and smoke. Medium-bodied, ready and delicious. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSCream and roasted hazelnut notes create an inviting, rounded nose on this wine. The palate has that same hazelnut richness and creamy flow, buttressed by freshness that recalls lemon and yellow pear. A lovely balance and a juicy, fresh finish do justice to the warm 2018 vintage. Drink by 2035.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Beaune "Clos des Mouches" 1er Cru White) An overtly floral nose combines notes of various white-fleshed fruit with those of lemon grass and spice wisps. The sleek, delicious and equally seductively textured medium-bodied flavors possess very good depth and sneaky length. This balanced effort should drink well young as well as with a few years of bottle aging. (Drink starting 2024)Burghound | 91 BHMarked by vivid acidity, this white evokes lemon, apple, vanilla and clove notes. A tad disjointed, this could use a year to integrate, or decant now. Shows echoes of oak spice on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2029. 480 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2019 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru Blanc has a vibrant, energetic bouquet, the citrus fruit, mango and white chocolate scents bursting from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a smooth, viscous opening. Good concentration here, and very long and sustained. This represents one of the best whites from Bichot this vintage. Vinous Media | 90-92 VMFrom a 0.75ha plot at the top of the slope, in the Clos des Mouches, where Bichot owns some vines that give a wine of winning concentration. There is pleasantly ripe apricot and pear fruit, with a broad feel on the palate. Regal in stature, perhaps lacking a bit of acidity, although many will enjoy its rich character. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 92 DECBetter known for its red wines, this premier cru vineyard also has a plot of Chardonnay. Ripe with yellow fruits and toastiness, this wine has a full-bodied character, juggling crisp acidity with generous fruitiness and texture. Drink the wine from 2022.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Pale yellow. Rather a backward nose, this appears low key after the oaky sumptuous character of Perrières, but it is a brilliant wine, all about the white fruit, ripe enough to include white peach flesh, but beautifully managed and with exceptional persistence. Almost saline in its minerality at the finish.Jasper Morris | 93-97 JMA ripe yet equally cool, pure and airy nose is comprised by hints of white peach, apricot, lavender and a hint of hazelnut. There is excellent intensity to the stony and attractively textured and beautifully delineated flavors that terminate in a bone-dry and youthfully austere finish that is quite tightly wound.Burghound | 91-94 BH

This creamy version is laced with peach, lemon cake and sweet spice aromas and flavors, with a floral accent adding lift. Balanced and long. Drink now through 2025. 320 cases made, 106 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA softly toasty mix of white and yellow peach, acacia and spice also displays plenty of phenolic character. The slightly finer medium weight flavors possess really lovely vibrancy and an appealing mid-palate texture that contrast with the powerful, serious and robust finale that offers impressive depth and persistence. This won’t win any awards for refinement, but it is impressive all the same.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru comes from vines on the upper slopes of the vineyard and cropped at 25hl/ha instead of the 40hl/ha the Meursault Village enjoyed. The nose features clear honey, clementine and light saffron aromas. The palate is well balanced with a slightly tangy, marmalade-tinged entry, good weight and a harmonious finish that just needs a little more complexity given the vineyard. Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is very promising, mingling notes of rose petals and wild berries with hints of loamy soil, sweet spices and a discreet application of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it’s fleshy and enveloping, with lively acids and a suave, elegant profile. This is well worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru comes from all four soil profiles in the vineyard – the only producer to have the "complete set." The generous bouquet presents red cherry and wild strawberry fruit, crushed stone and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with supple tannins, black pepper and a touch of sage toward the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Henri Magnien et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Cazetiers" 1er Cru Red) An overtly sauvage and intensely earthy nose features mostly dark currant aromas that are trimmed in moderate wood. The energetic bigger-bodied medium weight flavors possess fine depth and mid-palate concentration while terminating in a powerful, serious, dusty and mildly austere finish. This markedly mineral-driven effort is a classically styled Caz and while it’s not as concentrated as the 2020 version, it still has the stuffing to amply reward a decade plus of cellaring. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 93 BH

The 2019 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru has a very expressive bouquet of grilled almond and walnut aromas that burst forth from the glass. The palate is vibrant on the entry, offering orange zest and apricot; yellow plum and light ginger notes surface with time. I like the finish, which brims over with tension and feels long and tender. Superb. Vinous Media | 92-94 VMAn impressive Meursault with ripe-orange and pear aromas, plus a hint of exotic-fruit character. Generous and concentrated with animating acidity that keeps this light on its feet. Bold finish with a ton of minerality that makes a serious statement. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSot domaine, now racked to tank. Attractive classic Genevrières nose with its little herbal touches. Not too powerful, the fruit builds very well to the back of the palate, ripe yellow fruit, but distinguished and fresh enough at the finish. Very persistent.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMAromas of pear, orange oil, baking spices and nutmeg introduce Drouhin’s 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, a medium to full-bodied, bright and lively wine with promising depth and energy. Still a little introverted when I visited, this hadn’t yet been bottled.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThis is also aromatically cool and pure with its array of naturally exotic acacia blossom, lavender, white orchard fruit and jasmine tea nuances. The texture of the sleek and vibrant mineral-driven flavors is also sophisticated and refined though the finish is not quite as persistent as that of the Pucelles. Even so, this also offers fine development potential. A Genevrières of finesse and delicacy.Burghound | 92 BH

Restrained aromas of spice, mineral reduction and poached pear are also trimmed in just enough wood to merit pointing out. The delicious, round and caressing flavors also possess a fleshy mouthfeel while delivering fine length on the citrus rind inflected finish. This isn’t quite as energetic and there is a touch of warmth though the balance does not seem to be materially affected.Burghound | 91 BHThe 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne reveals aromas of orchard fruit, smoke, bread dough and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and lively palate that’s open-knit and elegantly textural.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

A holding of 0.22ha planted in 2004, next to Sauzet, Carillon and Latour-Giraud. This is a very early site, usually where the harvest starts chez Pernot-Belicard. Pale primrose, light toast, one third new wood, giving a crisp edge to the rich white fruit. Plenty of weight here, a little on the powerful side, but long and satisfying. There is a useful little touch of acidity too. Tasted: February 2021.Jasper Morris | 92 JM

A holding of 0.53ha planted in 1955, vinified and aged with one third new wood. Pale primrose with quite a stylish bouquet, more fruit than floral, definitely encouraging a second sniff. There is an attractive lime blossom note, without the higher alcohol feel of the vintage (though still around 13.8%), sitting back with quality reserve. Long and quite impressive. Tasted: February 2021.Jasper Morris | 93 JM

Here’s a very typical Meursault that combines the generosity and textural complexity we expect from this appellation, with liveliness that makes it very satisfying. Good concentration. A ton of flinty character at the substantial finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSLuscious and well-delineated, too, this white offers lemon oil, sliced apple and clove flavors, with an underlying mineral element. Long and will benefit from an additional year in bottle. Best from 2023 through 2029. 2,500 cases made, 750 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSSmoky reduction dominates the underlying fruit today. By contrast, there is good freshness and verve to the notably rich, round and rather plump medium-bodied flavors that display reasonably good length if only average depth on the bitter lemon-inflected and youthfully austere finale.Burghound | 89-91 BHThe 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Château de Blagny offers up aromas of crisp Anjou pear, white flowers, green apple and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, round and rich, it’s a gourmand, textural white from this higher-altitude site.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

A touch more yellow than the Perrières. A very fine nose, with the weight of Charmes but the sheer class of Perrières. Really impressive once again. With exceptional intensity to finish. You can’t call this as coming from a frozen minor vintage, chortles Stéphane, with some reason. Drink from 2027-2032.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMA broad-ranging nose features notes of roasted nuts, petrol, white flower, Asian style spiced tea, apple and a subtle but still easily perceptible application of oak. The dense, serious and palate saturating flavors possess evident power and excellent minerality on the sappy, powerful and strikingly persistent finish. This is quite impressive, indeed like the Perrières the word classy comes to mind. A beautiful Charmes.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2021 Meursault Les Charmes Dessus 1er Cru is focused and delineated on the nose, apple blossom mixed with grilled walnut and a touch of smoke. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, maybe just missing a bit of concentration, though there is satisfying mineralité on the finish. Drink over the next decade.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A beautifully layered nose offers up its combination of white orchard, fruit, resin, petrol and ripe citrus. There is impressive concentration to the caressing and generously proportioned but powerful medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the balanced finale. This could use better depth, but more should develop if it’s given a few years of keeping.Burghound | 92 BHale colour, white fruit, with a certain intensity, and there is a little crystalline note behind, a good framework to work from and I like the way this finishes. It began anonymously and ends with personality. Drink from 2025-2029.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JM

Fevre’s Montée de Tonnerre comes from all three sectors. Seguier notes that Pied d’Aloup has the highest marn content, Montée de Tonnerre adds weight and the old Chapelot vines (planted in 1936) add finesse. More closed on the nose. Weighty, concentrated, persistent. Saline notes. Will be a great gourmand wine. Some white flower notes, lots of zesty orange and grapefruit on the palate with a nice touch of white peach. For long ageing.Decanter | 94 DECA discreet dollop of wood sets off the equally cool and perhaps even slightly more elegant aromas of acacia, citrus, seashore and oyster shell. The sleek and highly sophisticated medium-bodied flavors possess a really lovely texture while delivering superb length on the bitter lemon and mineral-suffused finish. This beautifully balanced effort is crystalline in its purity and a wine that should repay a decade plus of keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2021 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from 2.2-hectares split over three climats with different orientations including the domaine’s oldest vines planted back in 1936. This has quite an aromatic bouquet with limestone, oyster shell and yellow plum aromas that blossom in the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, harmonious with commendable weight matched with a countervailing saline element. Bright and sparky, enjoy this delicious Chablis over the next 15 years.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Hommage à Marguerite debuted five vintages earlier, a blend of Les Perrières, Les Combes and Les Criots. It has a clean, precise bouquet with crushed limestone filtering through the green apple and white peach notes. Understated by gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a peachy opening, good depth, a little creamier than other cuvées with ample weight on the Chassagne-inspired finish. Lovely.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThe blended St-Aubin premier cru has impressive depth and richness, with aromas of apricot and quince underscored with mineral and floral notes. The texture is dense but lively, with crisp acidity and plenty of extract balancing precisely on the lingering finish. The grapes are blended from Les Perrières (near the village), Les Combes (down-slope from En Remilly), and Les Creots (in Gamay, facing due south). Colin feels the blend of the three is better than any of them bottled separately.Decanter | 92 DECA blend of three plots, Combes, Créot and Perrières. A little more colour here, while the nose is stricter up front. The fruit emerges more generously on the palate, with some yellow fruits and a lime-laden finish. A trace of youthful bitterness in the finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted: October 2022.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMThe 2021 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Hommage à Marguerite was quite tightly wound when I tasted it, unfurling in the glass with aromas of pear, citrus oil, clear honey, white flowers, toasted nuts and fresh mint. Medium-bodied, layered and rather concentrated, with racy acids and chalky grip, it will certainly benefit from further élevage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPModerate wood influence still allows the cool aromas of white flowers and petrol to be appreciated. There is a bit more volume if perhaps not quite the same underlying tension to the medium weight flavors that terminate in a stony and lingering finish that is quite dry while offering notably better depth.Burghound | 89-91 BH