First made in 2000 and from the Coccinelle Vineyard (planted in 1998), Christophe’s Bionic Frog always reminds me of a top flight Cote Rotie, which seems to be quite a bit different than the idea most people have about the wine, some of whom I doubt have actually tasted it. In this case, the 2011 Syrah Bionic Frog fits right into this profile and possesses an essence of blackberry and black cherry core of fruit, as well as additional notions of pepper, bacon, mineral and toasted spice on the nose. Harvested on the 13th of October, this full-bodied effort has gorgeous purity of fruit, big structure and an amazingly focused, detailed texture. Savory and chewy on the finish, it will require 3-4 years in the cellar and thrill for 20+ years. Drink 2016-2031.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RP(13.8%; picked on October 8 and 13, after Baron dropped an additional 20% of his crop in mid-July since the season was three weeks behind; he also did a saignée of another 20% and vinified with 80% whole clusters): Bright, dark red with ruby tones. High-pitched notes of spices, herbs and African violet lift the perfumed aromas of blackberry, boysenberry and huckleberry. Initially surprisingly creamy in the mouth for a wine from such a cool year, combining a sexy sweetness with lovely pepper and lavender lift. This wonderfully perfumed, precise wine is neither hard nor green. Most impressive today on the perfumed, rising, very long finish, which offers superb saline complexity, a subtle note of purple sage and outstanding peppery lift, with the tannins firm but not hard. A wonderfully scented wine from a very cool, late season; Baron told me that there were only three afternoons during the summer with temperatures above 90 degrees. (I should note that in my visits to Walla Walla in late June and July over the last three or four years, I’ve probably enjoyed no more than three afternoons with temperatures under 90.)Vinous Media | 94 VMLong-time admirers of this wine may find the 2011 version a bit thin. It’s a more subtle wine than is customary, the expressive funk subsumed below lighter layers of peat moss, sea salt and white chocolate. With decanting, scents of shittake mushroom, duck sauce and even chicken broth swirl up from the glass, with black tea flavors running through the tannins. Quite good, yet somewhat muted.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE
