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(Château Pichon-Lalande) While I have been a big fan of the 1985 vintage in Bordeaux for many years and have written quite a bit about these wines in recent times, I had not tasted a bottle of the 1985 Pichon-Lalande since I cannot remember when. I sold this wine right out of the blocks in my merchant days and always liked it well enough, but in my formative years, I found it a bit too “weedy” and did not end up cellaring it for my own collection. I think this was the only vintage of Pichon-Lalande I did not buy for my cellar in that era, as I started laying in the wines with the 1981 vintage and bought them every year (even the 1984 and 1987) up through the 1989, before my buying habits (and my more limited cellar budget in those days) turned towards Burgundy. But, I skipped the 1985 and that was too bad, as the wine has aged quite beautifully and is now drinking with great style and grace. The bouquet is a superb blend of cassis, dark berries, coffee, cigar wrapper, a dollop of fresh herbs, gravel, black tea and toasty oak. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and beautifully complex, with a good core of fruit, lovely soil signature, melted tannins and fine length and grip on the very classy finish. This is not a powerful vintage of Pichon, but it is an utterly complete one! (Drink between 2019-2045).John Gilman | 93 JGQuite ripe, with flavors of plum cake, warm pain d’épices, mint, Christmas pudding and fruitcake embedded in mulled currant and fig fruit. Offers a long, coffee-tinged finish, alluring ripeness and an easy structure.--Non-blind Pichon Lalande vertical (July 2014). Drink now through 2025.Wine Spectator | 92 WSAn intensely fragrant bouquet of weedy cassis fruit, toasted bread, and smoke is evolved and developed. In the mouth, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and smooth, with flavors of jammy black fruits and herbs. The finish is lush and silky. This wine has not yet begun to close up and I am beginning to doubt whether it will. A seductive-styled Pichon Lalande, it should drink well for another 10-15 years.Robert Parker | 91 RP

This is fresh and tangy, with sanguine, savory and iron notes leading gently mulled red and black currant fruit along. A savory edge sparkles through the finish, which shows a pleasantly dusty edge. Very pretty. -- Non-blind Groth Cabernet vertical (August 2024). Drink now through 2030.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 1987 Groth, at 37 years of age, is quite polished. The vines were coming of age, about 15 years old in 1987. It still displays good fruit notes—blackcurrants, dried blackberry fruits, dried apricots, and cherry—along with an elegance of savoury spices leading with tobacco, worn cedarwood, and chanterelles. Medium to full-bodied, with round and silky tannins that are beautifully integrated, the wine is succulent, voluminous, and juicy with plenty of length, tension, and energy. The long finish reveals chalky minerals, dried sage, and black olive notes. Nils Venge made the 1987 Groth Cabernet. Sampled during a vertical tasting of Groth wines (1982–2022) in early 2024 with proprietor Dennis Groth and winemaker Ted Henry.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

Berry, cherry and chocolate on the nose, with hints of spices. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a spicy, cedary, dark chocolate aftertaste. Very silky and caressing. Grabs your attention. Muscular for Cheval. Overlooked by many Cheval fans.—’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 12,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(40 h/h; 12.5% alcohol): Bright red. Very pure floral nose with enticing aromas of redcurrant, violet, minerals, licorice, lead pencil and coffee: very cabernet franc! Then linear, pure and juicy, with pristine flavors of red berries, dark plum, minerals and coffee. This midweight finishes clean and smoothly tannic, offering amazing balance and an impression of seamlessness on the long, very floral finish. As much as I like its pure aromas and flavors, I find this Cheval Blanc lacks a little density for an even higher score. This was an overall dry and cool year, with some rain present only in the first part of the year, which caused some mildew pressure. The dry conditions started at the end of July and never really let up; from July to September, there was less than two inches of rain. Flowering was late, taking place on June 10, and veraison on August 20. Harvested during the first ten days of October.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Dark red. One of the evening’s great successes, the 1988 Cannubi Boschis offers an exquisite balance between its evolved aromas of licorice, tar, spices and cocoa and the youthfulness it shows on the palate, where delicate and highly nuanced stewed prune and plum flavors coat the palate with notable vibrancy and freshness. Of the four wines in this flight it is the most expressive Barolo for drinking today and over the next five or so years, and this bottle was pure magic.Vinous Media | 94 VMSandrone is one of the finest producers of Barolo. Fortunately, I still have some bottles of his spectacular 1982 and 1985 in my cellar.The 1988 Cannubi Boschis promises to rival his 1985, but will it be as stunning as his 1982? Traditionally styled, the 1988 is unbelievably intense, with a super nose of damp earth and black fruits. There is sensational chewy, ripe, opulent fruit, softer tannins than many producers appear to have obtained, and a massively long, heady finish. Approachable now, this wine should hit its peak of maturity in 3-4 years and last for up to 15 . Wow!Robert Parker | 93 RP

Delivers fabulous aromas of crushed red fruits, with leather, tar, tobacco and mint. Full-bodied, offering supersoft and silky tannins, as well as a beautiful polish. Open and luscious, with amazing richness of fruit and decadence at the same time.—’89/’99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. 44,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 1989 Gruaud Larose is a wine that I have tasted a dozen or so times since back in 2001, most recently in 2012. The bottle was poured against several Californian wines that might be unfair, however, I do feel that this vintage has maybe peaked several years ago. Here it was well defined on the nose as usual, with scents of undergrowth, sandalwood and a touch of sage. It certainly lacks the joie-de-vivre that I expect. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, nicely judged acidity and quite compact black fruit, though this is a little more staid than before, certainly lacking the flamboyance of the 1990 Gruaud (for example). It is a thoroughly decent Gruaud that just fails to engage the same way as previous examples. Tasted over dinner at Chez Bruce.Vinous Media | 90 VM

This is dreamy and fully mature, with incense, black tea and a very fine chalky thread weaving through the silky core of raspberry and damson plum coulis. Long and beguiling through the finish. This drinks almost like a Rayas.—Non-blind Canon vertical (December 2016). Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS(Château Canon (St. Émilion)) When I wrote my feature on Château Canon a few years back, I had not tasted the 1990 vintage here for many, many years and the wine did not feature in that report. Consequently, I was very curious to see how the wine was evolving when I heard it would be part of our tasting lineup at the end of December. The wine is very good, but shows some of the roasted character of the vintage in its bouquet of black cherries, a touch of menthol, chalky soil, roasted game elements and a topnote of cigar smoke. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and wide open structurally, with a good core, melted tannins and good length and grip, but without some of the customary Canon elegance that one enjoys here in most top vintages. This is a very good wine, but not a great Canon. (Drink between 2018-2030)John Gilman | 90 JG

This wine continues to get better and better and is certainly one of the great successes in what is a profound vintage for Bordeaux. While the wine still tastes young, it is already complex, with so much sweet tannin and lavish fruit that it is impossible to resist, even though it probably will not hit its plateau of maturity for another 5-6 years. A stunning nose of licorice, earth, cedar, Provencal herbs, black currants, asphalt, and cherries soars from the glass. Full-bodied, opulent, with fabulous concentration, a seamless texture, and remarkable stuffing and power, this low-acid, thick, almost viscous wine can be drunk now or cellared for at least another two decades. For trivia buffs, this was the wine President Chirac served former President Clinton when he hosted Clinton in Paris at the famous Parisian bistro L’Ami Louis in June, 1999. I know, because several days later President Chirac gave me the Legion of Honor. In his speech, he acknowledged the fact that President Clinton only wanted to “drink a wine rated highly by Robert Parker.” Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 9/02.Robert Parker | 96 RPAn estate known for its long ageing, and here it has softened at 31 years old, but still offering silky tannins and autumnal fruits with cedar smoked oak, marzipan, dried leather and gentle truffled spice. A thoroughly enjoyable Gruaud Larose showcasing old-school St-Julien balance. Clear crushed mint leaf on the finish, utterly moreish. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend; 33% new oak. (Drink between 2021-2035)Decanter | 94 DECBright medium red with a reddish-amber rim. Pungent notes of cinnamon, quinine and rosemary complicate red cherry on the enticing, aromatic nose. Juicy and fresh on the palate, showing good density to the red fruit, peppery plum and herb flavors. Offers very good texture and chewy but noble tannins, with precise mineral-tinged fruit flavors lingering nicely on the peppery, flinty finish. A real step up in concentration from the 1989, and unlike that vintage this will still improve with further bottle age, though it’s drinking well now. Very well done.Vinous Media | 92 VM

A complex nose of subtle menthol intermixed with black currants, cherries, spice box, cedar, and herbs emerges from this fully mature 1990. It is a fleshy, round, generously endowed Margaux with silky tannins, low acidity, and beautiful purity. Drink it with great pleasure now, or cellar it for another decade. Release price: ($300.00/case)Robert Parker | 94 RPThe 1990 Rauzan-Ségla is another vintage that I have not tasted for some time. It was picked from September 17 to October 7. Now at 28-years of age it shows some maturation on the tawny rim, the core a little lighter in colour than the 1998 for example. The bouquet has certainly matured in recent years: blackberry, strawberry pastilles, touches of garrigues, clove and fennel, and freshly tilled soil. It is very...1990! There is little oak presence here (the new oak was in fact just 40%, so unsurprising.) The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, slightly rustic tannin. I love the flavor profile here: dark chocolate, leather, clove, oregano and a touch of soy that is, for me, quite Saint-Julien in style. One can tell that this 1990 will not improve with continued bottle age however, it has great depth and you come away with the sense that it wears its heart on its sleeve. Tasted at the Rauzan-Ségla vertical at the château.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery concentrated. Dark garnet color. Pretty licorice, plum and currant aromas. Full-bodied, with velvety, ripe tannins and a long black licorice and cherry aftertaste.--1990 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2004. 11,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

An absolutely spectacular Tertre Roteboeuf, probably the only other vintage that will reach this level of quality is the 2000. The 1990 has a deep plum/ruby color with some lightening at the edge and an extraordinarily flamboyant nose of jammy black cherry and berry fruit infused with smoke, caramel, and coffee notes that soar from the glass. This is a very viscous, full-bodied, silky textured wine has a to-die-for finish and enough glycerin and body to get lost. It is just entering its plateau of full maturity. A wow-wow wine! Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 12/02.Robert Parker | 98 RPDeep red-ruby. Fabulous nose of toffee, coffee, smoke, cinnamon, minerals and a faint animal quality. Extraordinarily thick entry; great density and sweetness but with plenty of underlying acidity and backbone. As with the voluptuous ‘89, there’s lovely delineation of flavor beneath all the glycerine. Finishes with a wave of melting tannins. Kept revealing additional nuances as it opened in the glass. Along with the ’90 L’Angelus, a great example of what can be done with controlled yields, 100% new oak, and - minimal filtration. This wine is now putting most of Bordeaux’s bigger names to shame.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Bright, deep red-ruby. Wonderfully mellow and complex on the nose, offering everything from fresh dark fruits to chocolate, red licorice, flowers and graphite minerality. Pure liquid silk in the mouth; at once sharply delineated and edge-free thanks to superb harmonious acidity, possessing a wonderfully tight core of juicy fruit. This very dry, classic Howell Mountain Cabernet finishes with serious dusty but sweet tannins and will still improve. Stunning wine. (13% alcohol).Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 1991 Howell Mountain Cabernet is noticeably thicker and more highly extracted than the 1992 and 1993 vintages. It is a huge, rich, powerful wine with great depth, as well as a boat-load of tannin. Do not touch a bottle for at least 5-6 years.Robert Parker | 93 RP(Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Howell Mountain”) I have a pretty high tolerance to brettanomyces in wine, and generally can tolerate a small amount in most bottles. That said, the ’91 Dunn Howell Mountain may be just a tad too bretty for its own good, and I am sure that there are plenty of people out there that are less tolerant of this issue and will find this wine less enjoyable than I did. The bouquet is deep and tight, with good complexity in its blend of cassis, black raspberries, medicinal tones, leather, stony soil tones, cedar and a fair bit of brett eventually emerging from the glass. On the palate the wine is fullish, young and shut down, with a good core of fruit, moderate tannins, lovely transparency down to the soil and good length and grip on the long and slightly bretty finish. If you have absolutely no tolerance for brett, knock this score down by several points, but for those that do not mind it too much, this is an impressively complex bottle of cabernet that is only a few years away from really peeking. (Drink between 2015-2040).John Gilman | 92 JGA dense, potent, rich, dark-colored wine, with immense tannins and a rich core of earth and leather-scented Cabernet fruit. Offers hints of mint, rose petal and anise, and at midpalate it gives a glimmer of polish before finishing with a wall of chewy tannins. Patience required.--'81/'91 California Cabernet retrospective. Best from 2003 through 2014.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

1995 was a warm year and the ripe fruits, with notes of fig and prune, come through strongly on the nose. The palate showcases soft truffles, gentle tobacco and some mushroom notes alongside the ripe fruit. You can feel the warm embrace of those Pomerol tannins, tugging rather than dragging you through the palate. It’s softened so beautifully that it’s fully in its drinking window and should be enjoyed now, although it won’t dip for at least another decade. Drinking Window 2018 - 2030.Decanter | 94 DECFascinating aromas of mineral, lilac and blackberry follow through to a full-bodied palate, with layers of silky tannins and a long finish. Just starting to come around. Give it more time.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 1995 La Conseillante is now fully mature on the nose with brambly red fruit, black truffle and light copper piping aromas. It still feels cohesive and fresh, although I cannot see it improving with continued bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin that have softened in recent years. There is a pleasing plumpness to this La Conseillante, although it feels a little simplistic and rough-hewn towards the earthy, clove-infused finish. This is an enjoyable Pomerol but one that I would drink over the next five years. Tasted at La Conseillante vertical at the property.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Another excellent year, the 1995 and 1996 vintage have definitely held up in colour and structure. The 1995 perhaps has the markings of a slightly hotter year in terms of the fruit ripeness, which veers towards fig, although there is still that unremitting sense of a wine that delivers layer upon layer of succulent soft fruits as you travel through the palate, buoyed up by a clear freshness. This wine is an example of what makes this appellation world class. Drinking Window 2018 - 2030Decanter | 93 DECBlack licorice and currants on the nose. Very fragrant. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Still needs time to come together.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 92 WSWhile not as backward as the 1996, the opaque purple-colored 1995 is a tannic, unevolved, dense, concentrated wine that will require 8-10 years of cellaring. The 1995 exhibits pain grille, blackcurrant, mineral, and subtle tobacco in its complex yet youthful aromatics. Powerful, dense, concentrated cassis and blueberry flavors might be marginally softer than in the 1996, but there is still plenty of grip and structure to this big wine. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030.Robert Parker | 90 RPDeep ruby-red. Bright, enticing aromas of redcurrant, minerals and tobacco; not quite as ripe as the ’96. Lovely sweetness and clarity of flavor in the mouth. More supple than the ’96, and likely to be approachable much earlier. Finishes with substantial, tongue-coating tannins.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A wine that continues to improve with age. Shows loads of ripe plum, almost prune, with hints of vanilla and mineral. Full, chewy and tight. Still needs time.--Lynch-Bages non-blind vertical. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 94 WS