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(Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits St.-Georges Les St. Georges 1er Cru Red) This is primary to the point of being overtly grapey with an interesting mix of intense earth and game nuances that merge into solidly structured middle weight flavors that possess outstanding length and real depth. As good as the Petits Monts is, there is another dimension here. (Drink starting 2015)Burghound | 90-93 BHFrom substantial holdings planted with old vines, the Thibault Liger-Belair 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les St.-Georges displays both roasted, charred and raw red meatiness to a degree unusual for a Nuits-St.-Georges. Ripe black cherry and blackberry are also very much present, but this wine is not about sweetness of fruit. Substantial, firm but finely-tannic and formidably concentrated, it finishes with dark, faintly bitter berries, roasted meats, beef blood, a soy-like savor, and an intense yet hard to describe minerality. The wine tastes like something one should if anemic. Heady yet not hot in its nearly 15% alcohol, palpable extract rich and thick yet not leaden, it will need at least 5-7 years, I suspect, if it is to be tamed and refined at all. (The 2004, incidentally, was also powerful if very slightly lower in alcohol and displayed intriguing potential.)In this his fourth vintage, and (like his cousin at Comte Liger-Belair in Vosne-Romanee) young, ambitious in the pursuit of quality, well-traveled, and in the process of taking back family property from rental and negociant contracts, Thibault Liger-Belair is ensconced in deep, ancient, and bitterly-cold cellars in the center of Nuits-St.-Georges. He has begun pursuing a biodynamic regimen in his vineyards and has inaugurated a rigorously-controlled negociant arm (its wines labeled “Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs” and designated “S” in my listings). He says he approached 2005 with great caution lest the wines lose polish and finesse to over-extraction of tannins. Certainly the results have included some very powerful and formidably structured wines. Low sulfur and a significant inclusion of whole clusters (“depending on the circumstances and site,” he says, “- I have no system”) are among other prominent features of Liger-Belair’s approach in 2005.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP(14.8% alcohol; vinified with 30% whole clusters) Bright red-ruby. Superripe aroma of black raspberry liqueur. Fat, sweet and powerful; a big, chocolatey-rich wine that retains freshness yet comes across as a bit heavy. Will make a major mouthful but today I don’t find the near-grand cru class of the best examples from this vineyard.Vinous Media | 89-92 VM

(Domaine Anne-Françoise Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Red) Very generous wood fights somewhat at present with the cool, spicy and highly complex nose of red currant, plum and violet aromas that is very much in keeping with the equally spicy rich, full-bodied and tautly muscled flavors that display ample minerality on the balanced, long and linear finish. This is a very serious effort with fine but dense tannins that will require 15 to 20 years for them to fully resolve so this isn’t a precocious Riche. (Drink starting 2023)Burghound | 91-94 BHSurpassing the 2007, Anne Gros’s 2008 Richebourg Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with scents of cassis, cherries, dried flowers, grilled meats and spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and nicely concentrated, with melting tannins, racy acids that are elegantly cloaked in succulent fruit and a long, penetrating finish. It makes for dramatic, head-turning drinking today, so there seems little reason to wait.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Richebourg- Domaine A-F. Gros) The 2008 Richebourg from A-F. Gros is fairly oaky, but with its wood much better integrated into the main body of the wine on both the nose and palate and posing no threat to the ultimate balance of the wine. The classy nose jumps from the glass in a blend of plums, black cherries, cocoa powder, orange zest, woodsmoke and spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely transparent, with a fine core of fruit, ripe tannins and fine length and grip on the youthful finish. There is plenty of wood in this wine, but it is seamlessly integrated already and does not detract at all from the overall pleasure that the wine delivers. A very good example. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 92+ JG

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. A little muted at first, the Bonnes-Mares suddenly wakes up in the glass and offers a taut, mineral rich bouquet with great definition. The palate is supple on the entry, a slight gourmand note on the back palate, building nicely with a slight savoury, sinewy finish with a digest if after taste. Tasted November 2010.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 91-93 RP-NM(Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) This is also quite restrained, indeed almost shy with a muted nose of dark berry fruit and earth that gives way to extremely fresh, supple and surprisingly forward flavors that almost instantly tighten up into a backwards and very firm and austere finish. This is a classically styled and proportioned Bonnes Mares that will require at least 15 years of cellar time. (Drink starting 2024).Burghound | 91-93 BH

Although I would not advise opening any of Mugnier’s 2012s young, if there is an exception to be made it is for the 2012 Chambolle-Musigny. Delicate and lilting in the glass, the 2012 is a terrific introduction to the Mugnier house style. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, mint and a hint of spice waft from the glass in a beautifully perfumed, silky Chambolle. A second bottle tasted outside the domaine was much less expressive, which leads me to believe the 2012 is best left alone for a few years, despite its considerable appeal.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Village was picked around September 25. It has a fragrant bouquet that is floral and alluring with soft strawberry, citrus peel and mineral scents. It needs five minutes in the glass to really coalesce. The palate is medium-bodied and a little masculine and austere on the entry, possibly the “Les Plantes” fruit more expressive at the moment. It is very fresh with what feels like a low pH and a crisp, almost shrill finish that will have mellowed by the time of bottling. Fine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RPA spicy, elegant and attractively pure nose features very fresh and cool aromas of dark pinot, green tea, plum and violets. There is good detail and punch to the lightly mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess lovely balance as the tannins are ripe and well-integrated. This is a really lovely Chambolle villages.Burghound | 90 BHThe Domaine Mugnier 2012 Chambolle AC is really a pretty and succulent example of the vintage, wafting from the glass in a bright and red fruity mélange of cherries, strawberries, woodsmoke, a lovely base of soil tones, incipient notes of gamebird and a nice topnote of mustard seed. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and beautifully transparent, with a fine core of pure fruit, tangy acids, fine-grained tannins and lovely focus and grip on the long and nascently complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2019 - 2040)John Gilman | 90+ JG

(Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also aromatically inhibited with its reluctant nose of plum liqueur, leather, humus and evident floral wisps. Here too there is excellent volume and intensity to the muscular and powerful flavors that are shaped by firm tannins that leave no doubt that this is built-to-age and a wine that’s going to need extended patience. I would add that in the context of the 2017 vintage, this is a big wine. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru offers more red fruit than the Bonnes-Mares, although at the moment this does not quite deliver the same nuance and comeliness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, quite linear and strict (especially for this vineyard), but with a welcome pinch of white pepper and sage towards the persistent finish. Afford it several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Ripe, dark cherry can just about be made out on the nose of this wine, but it seems distant. On the palate, the full, sumptuous purity and freshness of the fruit come to the fore. Nothing is overdrawn, all is harmonious. Silky tannins accentuate the sinuous depth of the fruit while subtle freshness highlights the pristine, elegant fruit. Lovely now, the wine is certain to evolve. Drink 2025–2035. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEBright cherry fruit is at the core of this elegant red, matched to a juicy texture and firm yet well-integrated structure. Sandalwood, vanilla and chalk dust accents add interest and the finish takes on a chunky feel. Best from 2022 through 2032. 700 cases made, 102 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSHere the slightly more expressive nose of red currant, plum and earth is more floral-suffused. There is a slightly more sophisticated mouthfeel to the middle weight flavors thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins shaping the markedly saline and refreshing finish that also flashes a bit of youthful austerity. This mildly warm and slightly firmer effort needs to develop more complexity but it’s already quite attractive.Burghound | 91 BH

This is perhaps the spiciest wine in the range with a lovely mix of anise, exotic tea and sandalwood on the deeply pitched dark berry fruit aromas that also evidence a hint of volatile acidity. The rich, full-bodied and mouthcoating big-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract before concluding in a grippy and mildly rustic finish that still manages to deliver very good length. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 90-93 BH

A slightly cooler and higher-toned if less spicy nose reflects notes of various red berries, especially cherry, along with plenty of earth is again trimmed in enough wood to notice. There is fine volume to the round, fleshy and suave medium weight flavors that exhibit good power on the lingering finish that also displays hints of warmth and bitter cherry pit character. This broad-shouldered effort is going to require at least moderate patience.Burghound | 92 BH

Very spicy aromas of various red and dark berries possess a mentholated top note. There is again excellent volume to the sleek and tautly muscular flavors that possess a gorgeous mouthfeel, all wrapped in a powerful, sappy and lingering finish where a hint of warmth emerges. This too is going to require extended patience. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 93 BH

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru, aged in 50% new oak, has an intense bouquet of floral and violet aromas joined by dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied and quite mineral-driven, with gentle grip and a savory, earthy, quite broody finish. This should be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits St. Georges "Les Boudots" 1er Cru Red) This is also notably ripe with its blend of plum, dark raspberry, range of spice elements and an exotic tea nuance. There is very good freshness and vibrancy to the delicious medium weight plus flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the dusty, moderately austere and firm but not rigid finale. This will need at least a few years to develop better depth and shed some of its tannic spine. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages was showing a bit of reduction on the nose. Meanwhile, the medium-bodied palate offers supple tannins, quite fresh and well balanced. Lightly spiced with white pepper and clove toward the finish, showing very good persistence in the mouth. This is an excellent Côte de Nuits-Villages.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint-Etienne is much more backward on the nose compared to the Marsannay Village, slightly earthy black fruit and sous-bois emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, citrus-driven opening, tangy marmalade infusing the black fruit, and graphite toward the tensile finish. I appreciate the focus and harmony of this cuvée, which should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM(Marsannay “Champs Saint Etienne”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Champs Saint Etienne bottling from the Roty family is made from a parcel of vines that are over fifty years of age. The 2019 version is another excellent Marsannay in the making, delivering a fine bouquet of black cherries, red plums, smoked meats, a fine base of soil, a touch of cocoa powder, gentle new oak tones and an exotic (at least from Marsannay) floral topnote that recalls both lavender and eucalyptus. On the palate the wine is complex, pure and full, with excellent mid-palate depth, lovely soil signature and balance, refined tannins and a long, complex and quite classy finish. (Drink between 2024-2050)John Gilman | 91 JGThe 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint Etienne is showing well, revealing aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals and licorice, framed by a discreet touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, chalky tannins, it’s mineral and precise, as it so often is.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is limpid in color. It presents an enticing mix of red and black fruit, rose petal and violet aromas. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine grip, and quite saline, leading to a lovely savory finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Les Clos du Jeu" Villages Red) An even more complex nose offers up markedly ripe yet fresh notes of herbal tea, forest floor, plum, red and dark raspberry, violet and earth, all of which is trimmed in nuances of wood. The succulent and slightly bigger-bodied flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel along with good minerality, all wrapped in an impressively complex and persistent finish. While this possesses even denser tannins, the borderline creamy mouthfeel should permit this beauty of a Marsannay to be approachable after only 5 to 7 years of bottle age. Well worth considering. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries and loamy soil, framed by a deft touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it’s supple and layered, uniting upfront charm with aging potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP(Marsannay “Clos de Jeu”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Clos de Jeu will also be promoted eventually to premier cru and it too is showing its lovely potential in this 2019 bottling from Domaine Roty. The nose jumps from the glass in a complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, smoked meats, a touch of licorice, a fine base of soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy in personality, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JG

A highlight this year is the 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, a lovely wine that opens in the glass with notions of cassis, plums, sweet berries and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, lively mid-palate, it’s a serious effort, built for the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy has quite an expressive, slightly toasty bouquet of lavish black fruit laced with blood orange and graphite notes. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The oak is quite noticeable at the moment and will require 4–5 years to be assimilated. Quite dense on the finish. A more sinewy Marsannay from Roty.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, which contains around 15% whole bunch, had only finished its malo a month prior to my visit. It has a dense, intense, blackcurrant and cassis-scented bouquet that will need time to mellow. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and fleshy but the black cherry fruit is framed by fine tannins and the finish is so silky smooth that you cannot help falling for its charms. (Drink between 2025-2040)Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThere is a top note of kirsch to the earthier and spicier aromas of red and dark berry liqueur. The delicious, round and caressing flavors possess very good punch while exuding a refreshing salinity on the dusty and palate coating finale. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 88-91 BH

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a very delineated, vibrant bouquet with white tipped strawberry and cranberry aromas, cohesive with impressive vigour and finesse. The medium-bodied palate is supple on the entry, extremely well balanced, surprisingly spicy with a finish that fans out wonderfully. Simply, one of the best Gevrey Villages you will find in 2021.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAromas of red berries mingling with notions of sweet spices, forest floor and smoke introduce the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, a medium-bodied, fleshy wine built around bright acids and beautifully refined, powdery tannins. Long and sapid, it shows outstanding potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPModerate reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background. By contrast the middleweight flavors are ultra-fresh and very bright with excellent delineation while displaying solid depth and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. This should be reasonably approachable after only 2 to 3 years of keeping.Burghound | 88-91 BH

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie, named after the lieu-dit close to the Château de Gevrey, has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberries and touches of quince, vivacious and beautifully focused. Saline in the mouth with plenty of energy, gradually building towards a well-proportioned, slightly peppery finish that might deceive you into thinking there were stems in the mix. A level up from the previous vintages.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie is ampler and fuller than the regular Gevrey, unfurling in the glass with notes of dark berries, cherries, warm spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a succulent core of fruit and powdery tannins, it’s built to age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThis is the one wine in the range that was reduced and it’s enough to push the underlying fruit to the background. More interesting are the bigger-bodied and more concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract on the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This is presently very backward, indeed it’s a bit grumpy, yet the potential for extended cellaring is clearly present. If you have the patience, and can find it, don’t hesitate.Burghound | 90-92 BH

A solid core of ruby purple. What a beautiful nose! Global warming says a friendly hello to cooler sites such as Les Barreaux. More oak this year because of the shortage of one year old barrels, and that shows a touch at the back at the moment but will all integrate. Very lively and extremely fine, with a greater depth of fruit than the Chambolle. The pinot fin plant selection is showing its class here. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, which Paul Gros said the family considers a Premier Cru close to Cros Parantoux and Richebourg, is based on poor shallow limestone soils. The nose takes time to open and evolves lovely raspberry and wild strawberry scents laced with oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with good substance on the entry. This is more structured than you might presuppose. It has a silver bead of acidity, and the finish feels pixelated for a Village Cru. Bon vin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAlthough this is slightly closed on the initial attack, there is a crisply refreshing high-toned fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate), with notes of peony and spice. The texture is fresh, tannic and grippy, and the compact, expressive fruit has an admirably chiselled character. The wine is from 75-year-old vines planted at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux — the ’baby Richebourg’ according to Anne Gros. This wine will drink well from three to five years after the vintage.Decanter | 93 DECIn contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is firmly reduced and reveals nothing. More interesting are the fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that already possess solid depth and very fine length on the balanced if firmly structured finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BH