Conterno-Fantino’s 2004 Barolo Vigna del Gris offers an enticing array of floral aromatics that lead to sensations of candied cherries, small red fruits, spices and marzipan. With air, this sensual, feminine Barolo opens to reveal notable inner perfume and superb length. As is usually the case, the wine doesn’t quite have the stuffing to balance its tannins and it does dry out just a bit on the finish, but it is nevertheless a gorgeous, gorgeous wine. In 2004 Vigna del Gris contains fruit from both old vines and a recently re-planted section of the vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019.I have long enjoyed the Conterno-Fantino Barolos but in recent years Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino have taken their wines to an entirely new level. These Barolos can often be massively structured and difficult to evaluate at an early stage yet the 2004s have incredibly sweet, ripe tannins that makes them a pure joy to taste. Simply put, this is a superb collection of 2004 Barolos. -We harvested most of our fruit on October 5 and 6,- says Guido Fantino. -We did 6-8 days of fermentation after which the wines went into French oak (100% new). The malos were very long and weren’t completely finished until January.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2004 Barolo Vigna del Gris is gorgeous. Sweet tobacco, autumn leaves, truffles, cedar, leather and spices all meld together in a super-expressive Barolo that is at the early part of its tertiary stage. Dark cherry, plum and spice-cake notes abound as the 2004 continues to open up in the glass. Today, the 2004 is peaking, but it should continue to drink well for another 5-10 years.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGRose petal, lavender and ripe fruit aromas follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and a medium finish. Has slightly austere tannins, but very good ripe fruit. Best after 2011. 1,245 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS