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Flinty and steely with dried-apple, cooked-apple, pineapple, stone and honeysuckle aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and layered. Dense and agile with a vivid, flavorful finish. Complex, rich and so long. Still tight. But ever so serious and complex. Another triumph from Aubert from this vineyard. Drinkable now, but better in a year or two.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2018 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is produced from Montrachet clone vines (what Mark Aubert calls “the citrus circus clone") grown in Rutherford AVA. It starts off a little closed at this youthful stage, soon unfurling to reveal notions of peach cobbler and pink grapefruit with an undercurrent of allspice, powdered ginger and chalk dust. The palate comes through with a powerful wall of concentrated stone fruit and baking spice flavors, supported by just enough freshness to lend balance and lift, finishing long and decadently toasty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2018 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is wonderfully alluring from the first taste. The Sugar Shack is typically among the more overt wines in this range. The 2018 has plenty of that, but the cool, even growing season and bright acids temper some of that natural exuberance nicely. Orange peel, spice, butter and sweet vanillin all meld together in this wonderfully open-knit, luscious Chardonnay from Mark Aubert.Antonio Galloni | 93-96 AGCreamy and honeyed notes accent the lusciously spiced flavors of ripe peach and baked apple. Toasty and buttery on the juicy finish. Drink now through 2024. 743 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

From a 20+-year-old section of Hudson selection Old Wente clone vines, the 2019 Chardonnay Hudson (a barrel sample) delivers a full-on exotic nose of tropical fruits, pineapple upside-down cake, beeswax and spiced pears with an undercurrent of cashews and brioche plus a touch of yuzu zest. Full-bodied, the palate is satisfyingly savory and multilayered, with tons of mineral sparks accenting the opulent fruit, and the long, decadent finish is beautifully offset by racy freshness.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPAn inviting nose of jasmine, lemon leaf, chalk and beeswax. Full-bodied and light on its feet with delicate expressions of herbs and spices that carry over the palate in layers. Subtle vanilla bean and toasted thyme on the palate. Supremely elegant. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2019 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is a total knock-out. Ripe pear, white flowers, mint and apple tart are all beautifully lifted. Rich in texture, yet light on its feet, the Hudson is unbelievably beautiful and vivid in the glass. In a word: stunning.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThere’s unctuous minerality and savoriness to the baked apple and dried pear flavors that are lacy and well-spiced, with toasty and buttery accents on the broad-textured finish. Elegant and complex. Drink now through 2026. 579 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Lauren Vineyard (named after Mark Aubert’s daughter) is the first vineyard Mark Aubert ever bought. It is composed of gravel mixed with Goldrich soils and was planted in 1999 to four different clones: two Old Wente clones, Mount Eden and Corton-Charlemagne.The 2019 Chardonnay Lauren Estate (a barrel sample) was fermented and aged in 100% new French oak. Unlike the other 2019 Aubert Chardonnays, this one needs a little swirling and coaxing to reveal the youthfully mute nuances of sea spray, crushed cashews, beeswax and allspice over a core of fresh pineapple, passion fruit, lemon meringue pie and toast. The full-bodied palate delivers the most gorgeous silken texture with tons of opulent spice-laced tropical fruit flavors and a refreshing line, finishing with incredible length and energy. Singularly stunning.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-100 RPWarm and toasted aromas of baked citrus, stone fruit, macadamia nut, crushed sage and dried flowers. Full-bodied. Supremely elegant and sleek. Suede, paprika, turmeric, rose water, lily and dried stone fruit wrap around structured tannins that effortlessly carry the flavors with vivid depth and intensity. Balanced, layered and long. Superb. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2019 Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard is a blend of two Wente clones, Montrachet and Mt. Eden. That combination produces a wine of uncommon elegance. Texturally alone, the Lauren is so distinctive. Pear, lemon confit, chamomile, marzipan and dried flowers all grace the Lauren, a wine that is just off the chart. Bright saline notes punctuate the finish.Antonio Galloni | 96-98 AGRich acidity supports the focused flavors of Fuji apple, Asian pear and citrus that are vibrant and well-focused. Accents of dried sage midpalate lead to a mineral-infused finish that shows buttery hints. Best from 2022 through 2027. 1,138 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2020 Chardonnay Powder House is ethereal and gracious in feel. Effusive aromatics give the Powder House its lifted personality. White pepper, chalk, mint and lemon oil add quite a bit of brightness. The balance here is driven by energy and vibrancy more than by volume.Antonio Galloni | 90-92 AG

From the Auberts’ home property on the western side of the Rutherford AVA, the 2020 Chardonnay Sugar Shack features intense scents of lime zest, honey and yellow peaches. Full-bodied, rich and ripe, it tightens up on the finish, adding more bright, refreshing citrus notes.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA solid and full-bodied wine with dried apple, pineapple, lemon rind, Full-bodied, layered and beautiful. Delicious finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 95 JSPrecise and pure, with a juicy, lip-smacking note to the dried pineapple, lemon sherbet, apricot preserves and tangerine at the core, expanding into clipped herbs and litsea oil details on the long finish, where the flavors expand and gain momentum. Drink now. 598 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2020 Chardonnay Sugar Shack has good depth and plenty of up-front appeal, but the aromatics are a bit muted. There are no hard edges, though. Hints of apricot, tangerine oil, spice and lightly honeyed accent linger. This is another fine showing for the year.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A cool, late-harvest site relative to Aubert’s other sources, the 2020 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons also sees a bit less new French oak (50%). Readers will note that the oak made virtually no impression on me, as the wine bursts with aromas of ripe, honeyed melon, balanced by bright lime notes. Full-bodied, creamy and lush on the palate, this is just a pleasure to drink, finishing long and zesty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThis stunning version opens with a rich impression, with candied ginger, marmalade and honeyed overtones to the core of fresh fruit flavors, including notes of pear, apple, melon and citrus. Hints of orange blossoms and minerality mingle with fresh acidity, while a nutmeg-dominant wave of spices gain momentum on the long finish. Drink now through 2033. 1,538 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSA big and juicy white with cooked apple, pear, honey, and mineral. Flint. Full and layered with a flavorful and delicious finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JS

Floral, non-fruity hints of crushed stone and talcum powder appear on the nose of Aubert’s 2021 Chardonnay Powder House, creating an attractive counterpoint to the wine’s honeyed richness and intense white-peach notes. Full-bodied and silky in feel, it’s a bit custardy in texture yet lithe, graceful and long, with an almost mentholated finish. There are 2,000 cases this vintage, from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 mainly to Hyde Old Wente, plus a bit of Mount Eden.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPLove the aromas of lemon-lime, gunpowder, kiwi, and dried lemons. It’s full, phenolic and solid. This is like red wine in structure. Long and persistent. One for the cellar. Give this some time. Best after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won’t be an issue in time, but the Powder House is decidedly reticent today. Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert’s Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM