Super Tuscans

wines

The 2019 Petresco picks up where the 2018 left off, although it is perhaps a bit more reserved at this stage than its older sibling was. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2019 possesses notable depth and intensity. Time in the glass brings out shades of red/purplish Sangiovese fruit mixed with suggestions of new leather, spice and menthol. The 2019 spent two years in wood (equal parts cask and barrique) followed by a year in cement.Vinous Media | 97 VMPlenty of sweet spices lie upon the citrus and rich berry fruit. Lots of ripeness here but it is also fresh and flavorful, showing impressive texture, structure and a long, juicy finish. Sangiovese. From organically grown grapes. Unfiltered. Very appetizing now, but should hold well in the next four to five years.James Suckling | 93 JS

Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 20th anniversary bottling of Testamatta made, from the 2019 vintage, in brand new winemaking facilities in Florence. This just shines from the moment it’s poured. Layered and complex this is a gem of a wine filled with cherry, raspberry, damson and caramel notes alongside a savoury edge that makes it so moreish. Tannins that support but don’t overwhelm give a nice overall weight to the palate while the flavous linger on the long finish. Made from old vines on stony soils on the Tuscan hilltops. Grapes are selected and sourced from the best five vineyards, which are divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times. Fermentation is in open-top barriques for the smaller parcels and in barrels or stainless steel for the larger ones without any temperature controls. Maceration for 7-10 days then moved into old barriques for 20 months.Decanter | 96 DECA pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDelicate aromas of red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. Bright and elegantly structured, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice framed in polished tannins. Drink through 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA sleek, well-delineated red, delivering cherry and raspberry flavors on an elegant frame. Fresh, and builds nicely on the mineral- and floral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 90 WS

This wine always stands out in my mind, and it’s worth dedicating a few words as to why. Poggio Valente offers us a rare opportunity to taste Sangiovese made according to the highest standards but from a territory—on the Tuscan Coast—that does not share a big legacy with monovarietal Sangiovese reds. The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Poggio Valente was born in a happy vintage with a cool spring and a growing season that had plenty of underground water reserves to keep the vines hydrated well until the end of August. This is a full and generous wine with dark cherry and wild plum aromas that segue to tar, licorice and crushed slate. My sample (tasted a few weeks after bottling) was a little shy initially, but it quickly blossomed in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is very dense and structured with stone and blackberry character. Full-bodied and intense with chewy tannins that frame the wine. Flavorful finish. Smoky and lightly bitter, in a good way. Pure sangiovese. This needs time to soften. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Poggio Valente is gorgeous. Bright and vibrant in the glass with terrific energy, the Poggio Valente is a fine example of the style favored here these days. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal, spice and orange zest complement a core of Sangiovese fruit. I especially like the vibrancy here. The 2019 is absolutely delicious. That’s all there is to it.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGA red with intensity on a weightless frame, leaving plenty of room for cherry, blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and white pepper flavors to shine. The tannins are present, yet uplifting rather than obtrusive. Sangiovese. Best from 2023 through 2032. 2,900 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

This Messorio 2019 from Le Macchiole is a delightful wine. It has plenty of sweet oak spice aromas with vibrant cassis and a hint of blackcurrant leaf. The nose is shy at first and is not revealing much at the moment, but it is concentrated, and you can tell there is plenty to come. On the palate it is tangy, lively, and vibrant with a lovely texture and quality to the tannins. The 2019 is more concentrated that the 2018 and has huge potential to be really fine and age well for at least 15-20 years. This 100% Merlot comes from a 2.5-hectare plot and the typical production is 10000 bottles. Drink 2024 – 2047.Wine and Spirits | 98 W&SThis Messorio 2019 from Le Macchiole is a delightful wine. It has plenty of sweet oak spice aromas with vibrant cassis and a hint of blackcurrant leaf. The nose is shy at first and is not revealing much at the moment, but it is concentrated, and you can tell there is plenty to come. On the palate it is tangy, lively, and vibrant with a lovely texture and quality to the tannins. The 2019 is more concentrated that the 2018 and has huge potential to be really fine and age well for at least 15-20 years. This 100% Merlot comes from a 2.5-hectare plot and the typical production is 10000 bottles. Drink 2024 – 2047.The Wine Independent | 98 TWIThe stunning Le Macchiole 2019 Messorio is all Merlot from a special 2.5-hectare plot with a classic mix of Bolgheri soils featuring clay, silt, sandstone and limestone. The wine ferments in concrete and finishes in new barrique for 18 months. I spoke with proprietor Cinzia Merli about Merlot, and she concedes that this early-ripening grape suffers the most because of climate change. However, the winemaking team works extra hard for balance and elegance notwithstanding. This beautiful wine releases perfumes of cherry, blue flower, iris root, crushed stone and slate. Well-balanced oak tones add power and texture to the full-bodied close. 11,000 bottles were released.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2019 Messorio marries the natural opulence of Merlot on the Tuscan Coast with a feeling of finesse I don’t think I have ever seen here before. There is plenty of depth and resonance, but none of the heaviness that was so in vogue for many years. Dark cherry, plum, spice, mocha and lifted floral notes build into the racy, exotic finish. (Originally Published in March 2022)Vinous Media | 97 VMWell-marked by new oak at this stage, with vanilla and toasty spices wrapped around a core of plum, black cherry, earth and cedar. Graceful and balanced, turning firmer on the persistent finish. This is all about the purity of fruit, finesse and length. Decant now or age this 2-3 years. Merlot. Best from 2024 through 2038. 920 cases made, 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSBlackberry, oyster shell, iodine and black olive. Some cumin and thyme, too. Full-bodied with a very tight palate of firm tannins and fresh, minerally blue fruit. Needs time to open and show its true potential. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 96 JSBright cassis, straw and graphite on the nose - these are all the more open-knit characters typical of Merlot in the solarity of Bolgheri. The concentration of fruit packs a punch on the dense and fleshy palate, with a tight oaky, slightly chalky, austere character alongside velvety tannins and a graceful cedar wood finish. Assertive yet integrated acidity keeps the alcohol in balance. Great ageing potential.Decanter | 95 DECLe Macchiole is always identifiable by its death-defying acts of balance and the Messorio is no exception. Cherries, cranberries, wild herbs and soil on the nose carry through onto the palate before pepper, charred meat and a juicy spiciness come out on the finish. Tannins that are unwinding with ease and a discernible heat keep things exciting; a delight right now but watching what happens next will be worth the wait. Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE

The 2020 Sassicaia is a bold, rapturous wine. Dark, fleshy and expansive on the palate, the 2020 offers up scents of blackberry jam, gravel, spice, new leather, licorice and crème de cassis. Potent tannins are nearly buried by the sheer intensity of the fruit. Sassicaia is never a huge wine, the 2020 does seem to have an extra dimension of textural intensity. It’s an intensity that is hugely appealing.Vinous Media | 97 VMFrosts damaged the the earlier-developing Cabernet Franc in late March, leading to reduced production but superb quality fruit. Spring was mild and summer was generally warm, but a rapid acceleration of maturation in late summer forced the team to begin picking in the first week of September to avoid any overripeness. A traditional 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc blend, its blackcurranty, dusty, leafy and cedary character is brought into focus by an intense and balsamic palate. It’s poised and light on its feet with super-fresh acidity and a fine-grained, almost imperceptible tannic structure. Ripe and tangy raspberry and blueberry fruits linger on the mid-palate, leading to a long, fresh finish with some cream and chocolate notes. This will reward cellaring into the 2050s, yet you’ll get plenty of pleasure from it in its youth. ’We advise to keep it at least 10 months in the bottle before opening,’ states third-generation Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta.Decanter | 97 DECA very perfumed Sassicaia on the nose with forest floor, citrus and deep dark fruits. Blackcurrants. Cedar and black tea. Some balsamic. Pine needles. Full and very succulent. Really long, structured and complete. Tangy and energetic with a linear line of fresh tannins and acidity. Very Sassicaia throughout. 85% cabernet sauvignon and the rest is cabernet franc. Very attractive now in a youthful and vibrant way, but this will be better in three to four years. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe Tenuta San Guido 2020 Bolgheri Sassicaia speaks to those who seek a more voluptuous, opulent and, ultimately, more accessible wine. This vintage is a precise reflection of Coastal Tuscany, as opposed to a more generic "Tuscan" wine from elsewhere in this large central Italian region. You taste the ripeness and soft fruit weight that comes from a coastal appellation with especially bright luminosity and warm Mediterranean offshore breezes. Sassicaia from the cool vintages is a famously reticent or withholding wine in its earliest years, requiring a long lead time before it eases into an ideal drinking window. That’s definitely not the case here. This wine is beautiful and compelling straight out of the gate, showing a lovely mix of dark fruit, oak spice, balanced freshness, textural richness, soft tannins and an expertly contained 14% alcohol content. The wine’s immediate character is what distinguishes this vintage, and I wouldn’t get too fussed by exaggerated cellar-aging ambitions. The wine awards sheer pleasure in its current form, with dazzling primary fruit and soaring intensity over the near and medium term.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

The 2020 Gagliole, 100% Sangiovese from estate vineyards in Panzano, is fabulous. Rich and ample, the 2020 possesses remarkable breadth and textural intensity. All the elements are so well balanced. Cedar, pipe tobacco, mint, dried flowers and mocha all build as the 2020 shows off its class. Pretty floral and saline accents extend the finish.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is a very special organic wine made exclusively with Sangiovese from Panzano in Chianti from 15- to 30-year-old vines. Compared to the other releases in this portfolio, the Gagliole 2020 Gagliole delivers the goods up front with immediate fruit intensity and aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry. This wine sports a bright and lively personality with a soft texture and pretty layers of sweet fruit. You get a lot of good food-pairing potential out of this bottle, whether it be with grilled meat or pasta. Exactly 5,748 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is complex with aromas of ripe black cherries, blackberries, dried spicy herbs, cedar, graphite and seashells. Full-bodied, firm and structured with finely polished, well-integrated tannins that keep building on the palate, framing the deep dark fruit and pushing the length of the wine. An array of pure fruit, spices and minerals on the palate. Very attractive and pristine. Tense and balanced. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

The purity of fruit is impressive in this wine with currants, orange peel, peaches and lemon in the nose and on the palate. Full-bodied yet compressed and agile. Flavorful finish. Reserved now, but if you give it a year or two it will really deliver. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 95 JSUltra fresh juicy cherries with more delicate aromas of violets and rose petals on the nose roll onto a palate rich with more cherries and berries balanced by earthy, astringent notes of soil, branches and roots and a finish of bitter cocoa and anise.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2021 Crognolo, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, is medium to deep garnet-purple in color. It comes barreling out of the glass with notes of cherry compote, plum preserves, and unsmoked cigars, leading to touches of bay leaves and fragrant earth. The full-bodied palate is packed with savory accents to the black fruit flavors, supported by chewy tannins and refreshing acidity, finishing with great length.The Wine Independent | 93 TWIThe organic Tenuta Sette Ponti 2021 Crognolo is a mid-entry blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot that goes into oak for up to 14 months. Fruit is harvested from a historic clone of Sangiovese found on this estate. The wine shows dark concentration, certainly more than you’d expect from Sangiovese, with lots of cherry, spice and blue flower that ties directly into the Merlot. It offers a medium to full-bodied texture with fine, chalky tannins. This is a big release of 90,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThis young red reveals all its components in the right place, yet needs time to integrate. Offers cherry, violet, earth, iron and mint flavors that give way to serious tannins on the strapping finish. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2025 through 2036. 140,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSDried herbs, dark chocolate, olive tapenade and fragrant sun-kissed black fruit on the nose. Deep and wide, this has a lovely expansion in the mouth, super succulent but also sharp, tangy and tight with a piercing acidity and quite a tense, tannic structure. Lean and direct, focused with purity to the expression. Feels well worked, ample and precise, just super tight with black pepper and a menthol hit on the finish that is both fresh and spiced. Feels very herbal with lots of garrigue characteristics. I like the expression. Ageing 12-14 months in small barrels and six months in bottle before release.Decanter | 91 DECThe 2021 Crognolo is a gorgeous entry-level offering from Sette Ponti. A burst of red/purplish fruit, blood orange, spice and rose petals races across the palate, lifted by bright acids that confer energy. All the elements are very nicely balanced. This is such an inviting wine.Vinous Media | 90 VMNo written review provided. | 90 W&S

Orma, Sette Ponti’s sister estate based in Bolgheri, is – like Sette Ponti’s Oreno – Merlot-based, but it’s a different blend in a different place and, in my opinion, reaches greater heights. Spicy, brambly berry aromas with some dusty wood and chocolate notes are followed in the mouth by super-fresh acidity, introducing some ripe black fruits then a stony mid-palate. A fine web of silky tannins supports the fruit, while herbal and balsamic edges bring a sense of freshness and levity to the concentrated fruit. The finish is long, succulent and fresh, with some fresh and dried black fruits accompanied by spice and chocolate. Great balance.Decanter | 96 DECAromas of herbs such as basil and bay leaf with currants follow through to a full body with creamy and round tannins, and lots of coffee bean and walnut undertones. Chewy but not overdone. Velvety texture. Fine at the end. Drinkable but better in three to five years.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Orma is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it bursts from the glass with bold notes of stewed black plums, boysenberry preserves, and underbrush, followed by hints of cedar chest, tar, and bay leaves. The big, concentrated, full-bodied palate packs a wallop, with bags of expressive black fruits and a grainy texture, finishing with an invigorating mineral lift.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe organic 2021 Orma pours from a chunky glass bottle. The blend is 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc (with 18 months in barrique). This wine is heady and opulent with a bouquet that delivers swells of black fruit, plum, spice and floral highlights of lilac or blue flower. These aromas are delivered in waves of varying intensity. This is a proverbial food wine that calls for a dish with a high fat content. The freshness is there, and there is considerable fruit weight to pair across from grilled lamb with mint sauce. Production is 39,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Orma is a rich, heady wine. Succulent dark red plum, spice, new leather, mocha and menthol are nicely laced together. This sumptuous, flamboyant wine offers tons of immediacy and overall appeal.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2021 Gagliole is 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s vineyards in Panzano’s famed Conca d’Oro. Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2021 captures all the natural radiance of this sector in Chianti Classico. Sumptuous red cherry fruit, blood orange, spice, menthol and rose petal build as this luscious, racy Sangiovese shows off all it has to offer.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Here’s a wine that takes us to a vintage that excels in terms of general fruit clarity and precision. The 2021 Giusto di Notri is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot that ages in new oak (50% of the wine) with the other half going into second- and third-passage barrel. Intensity and depth are highlighted nicely here in a vintage that ended on October 16th (much later than 2020). This benefits complexity and aromas. The vintage also delivers more freshness and balanced tannins (without the sharper edges you get in 2020). This is a beautiful wine, one that’s set up for long cellar aging.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPIntense aromas of red currants, sweet tobacco, lead pencil, and terra-cotta. Medium to full body with polished tannins that are very well-integrated into the wine. It is racy and long with lovely mocha and subtle fruit at the end. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc and 10% merlot. Drink after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSBlack currant, blackberry, plum, violet, green olive, graphite and wild rosemary aromas and flavors are the hallmarks of this impressive red, which is lively and refreshing, with dense tannins gripping the long, oak-tinged finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2038. 3,333 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThis blend of the two Cabernets plus Merlot is matured in new and second-use French oak barriques for around 18 months. Leafy, herbal and spicy notes are a prelude to a core aroma of blackcurrant, cocoa and violets. In the mouth it combines bright and precise acidity with soft, voluptuous yet structured black fruits, with some juicy spiced plum, herbal bitters, chocolate and a woody presence. Fine-grained tannins grip the gums and bolster the fruit. A deliciously lively red to enjoy now or in several years.Decanter | 94 DEC

Super-restrained nose here with candied lemon and lemon bush, tuberose, peach kernel and integrated toastiness. Full body with amazing weight and concentration, yet with vibrant, lemony flavor, zesty and integrated acidity and a warming but balanced finish. Drinkable now, but with aging potential of more than 10 years.James Suckling | 97 JSFor the first time, Ornellaia Bianco becomes a Bolgheri DOC wine in the 2021 vintage. It’s again 100% Sauvignon Blanc, vinfied in a mixture of 300L and 500L amphorae, barriques and tonneaux, with only 25% new wood. Perfumed, exotic, stony and honeyed, it’s nonetheless a vertical and focussed wine, its structure constraining rich aromas and flavours of mango, peach, white flowers, orange peel, papaya and passion fruit. It does feel like it’s being held back, with a touch of austerity and that stony, mineral authority that makes it a necessity to drink with food. ‘It has much more vibrancy than in the past...a better defined character than when the project began,’ notes Marco Balsimelli.Decanter | 96 DECPreviously a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, the Ornellaia 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is now all Sauvignon Blanc. The estate recently planted Semillon, so it is possible that we will one day see that grape in the blend (especially because it is known to thrive in hot vintages). This wine plays its best cards in terms of texture. It sports broad shoulders and enough texture to support those many creamy citrus and delicately tropical flavors. A dusting of crushed stone adds elegance. The wine should show its best results in five to 10 years from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Ornellaia Bianco is alluring. I sense a bit more textural richness vis-à-vis prior editions, a positive in my book. White pear, jasmine, sage, mint, white pepper, peach and apricot fill out the layers. Light tropical accents appear with some aeration, adding a tropical flair that is quite attractive. This is impeccably done.Vinous Media | 95 VMVerging on creamy in texture, this silky white features floral, peach, sage and mint flavors, with a flash of grapefruit pith. Complex, balanced and long, with a salty component on the persistent aftertaste. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Massetino is considered the second wine of Masseto, but I’m beginning to come to the conclusion that it’s far more than that. It represents around one-third of the production of Masseto, and judging by the quality of this 2022, next year’s release of the grand vin could be absolutely phenomenal. Massetino has always incorporated a portion Cabernet Franc since its first vintage, 2017 – 10% in 2022. A cool and dry spring led to a slightly late budbreak, followed by 75 days of drought and high temperatures. Summer storms eventually came along to restore balance, and the cool September evenings were perfect for the grapes reach full ripeness. Each parcel was vinified separately and spontaneously in concrete tanks before undergoing malolactic fermentation in barriques, 50% new. After 12 months, the final blend was made and the wine spent a further three months in concrete before bottling. Bright and stony, there’s so much energy here. Zingy and sapid, it combines fresh Mediterranean herbs and poised fruit, with more verticality than Masseto 2021 and just as much concentration. Incredible precision and beautiful freshness, especially considering the vintage.Decanter | 97 DECThis is refined and fresh with hints of sandalwood to the beautiful blue fruits. It’s medium-bodied with creamy and polished tannins that frame the blue fruit and hints of crushed stone. Succulent and juicy with a crunchy personality. You want a sip right away. Second wine of the highest quality from Masseto. So drinkable and wonderful. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThis is opulent, with a lush texture enveloping black cherry, blackberry and plum flavors. Flashes of tar, iron and wild herbs add detail as this red builds to the long finish. Balanced and fresh, with sweet, lingering oak spice notes. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2040. 160 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS