Super Tuscans

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This wine always stands out in my mind, and it’s worth dedicating a few words as to why. Poggio Valente offers us a rare opportunity to taste Sangiovese made according to the highest standards but from a territory—on the Tuscan Coast—that does not share a big legacy with monovarietal Sangiovese reds. The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Poggio Valente was born in a happy vintage with a cool spring and a growing season that had plenty of underground water reserves to keep the vines hydrated well until the end of August. This is a full and generous wine with dark cherry and wild plum aromas that segue to tar, licorice and crushed slate. My sample (tasted a few weeks after bottling) was a little shy initially, but it quickly blossomed in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is very dense and structured with stone and blackberry character. Full-bodied and intense with chewy tannins that frame the wine. Flavorful finish. Smoky and lightly bitter, in a good way. Pure sangiovese. This needs time to soften. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Poggio Valente is gorgeous. Bright and vibrant in the glass with terrific energy, the Poggio Valente is a fine example of the style favored here these days. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal, spice and orange zest complement a core of Sangiovese fruit. I especially like the vibrancy here. The 2019 is absolutely delicious. That’s all there is to it.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGA red with intensity on a weightless frame, leaving plenty of room for cherry, blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and white pepper flavors to shine. The tannins are present, yet uplifting rather than obtrusive. Sangiovese. Best from 2023 through 2032. 2,900 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

It has a supremely enticing nose.. With the 2019 there is an added precision to the aromas, less heavy oak, and no greenness on the palate. It is concentrated with a rich velvety texture but without any heaviness and with a gentle unforced quality. The tannins are fine and very well integrated, in fact finer and better integrated than even the excellent 2016 vintage. It is of course very young now but it’s almost too delicious not to drink! Supremely graceful, it just gets better and better.TWI | 100 TWIThe 2019 Cepparello has closed down quite a bit since I tasted it last year, as if all of its energy is focused inward. That won’t be an issue in another few years’ time, but for now readers should resist any temptation to open bottles. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous Sangiovese fruit, along with hints of blood orange, spice, cedar, mint and tobacco, all wrapped together by plush, silky contours. The purity of the fruit is just striking. In 2019, Cepparello is more finesse than power. I expect it will age beautifully over the next several decades.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGSo much licorice and fennel seed with black cherry and a hint of tomato paste. Medium body, round texture and savory flavors. Pretty and fresh at the end, with subtle flavors. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

Holding back initially, this wine simply needs more time in bottle, and I have adjusted the drinking window accordingly. The 2019 Le Pergole Torte is a long-term proposition showing initial stirrings of tart cherry fruit, plum, licorice, tobacco and crushed stone. There is a pretty floral tone of violet or rosemary flower even now. Winemaking takes this special selection of 100% Sangiovese though cement and Allier and Slavonian oak. The balanced acidity stands out nicely. There are 29,000 bottles of the 2019 vintage, and I recommend you put yours in the cellar for five to 10 more years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Le Pergole Torte is all class and refinement. At the same time, the 2019 is quite reticent at this stage. In this tasting, the Pergole Torte comes across as more refined and aromatically expressive than the Montevertine, with lovely brightness driving the red berry fruit. Elegant and sophisticated, the 2019 is a wine to treasure for the next several decades. Time in the glass brings out the floral upper register and red Sangiovese fruit of Pergole Torte.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The 2019 Percarlo is a wine of reserve. There’s terrific purity to the fruit and fine tannins for the year, but also a bit of firmness that needs time to resolve. Bright red-toned fruit, cedar, tobacco, licorice, blood orange and spice open nicely to play off those vibrant tannins. I imagine the 2019 will need a number of years to be at its best. The 2019 spent 22 months in a combination of 30HL casks and 500L in tonneau. Production is down about 25%.Vinous Media | 97 VMTaking a similarly dark ruby hue, the 2019 Percarlo is a little slower initially to reveal its aromas of candied raspberry, fresh leather, sweet earth, and polished cedar. Although it’s medium-bodied, it penetrates and saturates the palate with pure concentration of fruit, ripe tannins, and a fantastically long and elegant finish, with a hint of warmth and orange peel citrus. Even all the way through, this is another remarkable wine from the team at San Giusto di Rentennano that has the potential for serious longevity over the coming 15 to 20 years, so readers should be in no rush to open it.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDOne of the most celebrated expression of Sangiovese on the market today is the San Giusto a Rentennano 2019 Percarlo. This organic wine has a hint of extra ripeness or richness that transcends the bouquet. You feel as if you can bite into the fruit, and indeed the 2019 vintage is recognized by its unique power and density (with a 15% alcohol content). It’s a lot to take in, and there is enough lasting fiber and fruit power to fuel a long drinking window. This is one of the bigger and more opulent editions of Percarlo I have tasted.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA vibrant, finely knit red, featuring black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit accented by iron, wild herbs and spices. Taut and linear, with a silky texture, lingering finish and resonant tannins. Shows terrific energy that builds from the beginning to the long, complex aftertaste. Best from 2025 through 2045. 1,375 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 2019 Petresco picks up where the 2018 left off, although it is perhaps a bit more reserved at this stage than its older sibling was. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2019 possesses notable depth and intensity. Time in the glass brings out shades of red/purplish Sangiovese fruit mixed with suggestions of new leather, spice and menthol. The 2019 spent two years in wood (equal parts cask and barrique) followed by a year in cement.Vinous Media | 97 VMPlenty of sweet spices lie upon the citrus and rich berry fruit. Lots of ripeness here but it is also fresh and flavorful, showing impressive texture, structure and a long, juicy finish. Sangiovese. From organically grown grapes. Unfiltered. Very appetizing now, but should hold well in the next four to five years.James Suckling | 93 JS