The VAULT

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The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which will contain some new oak although I tasted from a used barrel, has a tightly knit bouquet that at the moment is less expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin. The palate is crisp and pure, quite tensile, with a spiciness that becomes more prominent toward the fleshy, harmonious finish. Curiously, even from a used barrel the texture feels as if there is some new oak, but that is just the concentration of fruit coming through. Frédéric enthused about this wine and I suspect that it may surpass my expectations once in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2013 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Rousseau saw ten percent new wood in this vintage, with the remainder of the barrels used for the elevage primarily one wine casks. The wine was a touch reduced at the time of my visit, but opened up with some swirling to reveal a promising bouquet of red and black cherries, meaty tones, dark soil, woodsmoke, a touch of mustard seed and a discreet base of nutty oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, long and very pure on the attack, with a fine core, ripe tannins and a long, youthfully reticent and tangy finish. This will be a lovely vintage for this wine, but like the Mazy, it deserves a decade in the cellar to really come into its own. (Drink between 2023 - 2055)John Gilman | 92-93+ JGAn unusually high-toned nose is comprised by a pretty array of red berry fruit, earth and Asian style tea nuances. There is really lovely detail and vibrancy to the middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the restrained and lingering finish. This delivers surprisingly good flavor authority given that this is not nearly as concentrated as the best in the range. In sum this is a beautifully well-delineated wine of harmony if not power that should reward mid to longer-term aging as the supporting tannins are also dense but fine.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was impressive from barrel, but in bottle I found it coming up a bit short. Firstly, it is extremely reduced on the nose and after two or three hours there is little change. It is dense and muscular, very concentrated in style (perhaps atypically for this cuvée from Rousseau) and yet the finish feels a bit chunky and lacks finesse. Yes, it is too young, but here it is easily surpassed by Cathiard’s Malconsorts. Tasted at 21 Boulevard restaurant in Beaune.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Good bright, deep red. Complex, subtle aromas of raspberry, redcurrant and graphite minerality, plus some sexy oak tones. Ripe and silky, even plump for the year, but classically dry and light on its feet. Saturates the mouth and cheeks without leaving any impression of heaviness. At this point in my tasting, Marie-Christine Mugneret noted that these 2013s had been uncorked the previous evening. They are showing spectacularly now and I suspect they benefited dramatically from aeration. Finishes with very suave, even tannins and a suggestion of minty lift. Very classy juice.Vinous Media | 94 VMAn exuberantly spicy nose exhibits notes of raspberry liqueur, earth and essence of black cherry scents as well as enough wood to notice. Here too there is a distinctly sleek mouth feel to the suave and very seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that possess impressive power in the context of the appellation and simply knock-out depth and length. This impeccably well-balanced effort is a notably more robust and concentrated vintage of this wine than usual that should age well for a long time to come.Burghound | 94 BHThe Mugnerets usually get six to seven casks of Echézeaux in a normal vintage, but in 2013, the old vines in their holding in the climat of Rouge de Bas were really badly affected by the poor flowering in this year and there are only four casks of this lovely wine as a result- the same as in 2012. It is too bad that there is not more quantity, as the quality here is exceptional, with the wine soaring from the glass in a blaze of black cherries, cassis, gamebirds, violets, a gloriously complex base of soil, dark chocolate and nutty new wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and supremely elegant in personality, with great mid-palate depth, impeccable balance, ripe tannins and outstanding transparency on the very long, tangy and perfectly focused finish. A beautiful wine in the making. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2013 Echézeaux Grand Cru, which comes from two parcels in the lieux-dits “Les Rouges du Bas” (70-year-old vines on métayage from Fabrice Vigot) and “Quartiers du Nuits” (on métayage with Pascal Mugneret) has a seductive bouquet in the same vein as the Nuits Chaignots with very pure dark cherries, bergamot and mineral scents. The palate is rounded in the mouth with very good weight. It does not quite have the delineation or complexity of the 2012 at the moment, but there is a lovely caressing finish. This will be giving pleasure earlier than the other crus, but it should still age well.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP

(Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) A broad-ranging and distinctly cool nose features aromas of orange pekoe tea, white flowers, pomegranate and plenty of earthiness, all of which is trimmed in discreet but not invisible wood nuances. There is an equally cool and restrained mouth feel to the big-bodied, intense and muscular flavors that possess outstanding mid-palate concentration along with a beautiful sense of vibrancy and harmony to the gorgeously persistent finish. This overtly powerful effort will also need plenty of patience but should absolutely be worth the wait. (Drink starting 2028).Burghound | 95 BH(Bonnes-Mares- Domaine Dujac) The 2013 Domaine Dujac Bonnes-Mares is excellent, as it offers up a superb bouquet of plums, cherries, gamebirds, a marvelously complex base of soil, woodsmoke, roses, a dollop of fresh thyme and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very transparent in personality, with fine-grained tannins, lovely focus and a very long, poised and youthful finish. Classic Bonnes-Mares in the making. (Drink between 2025-2075).John Gilman | 95 JGDeep red. Pungent cherry, licorice and wild herbs on the nose, lifted by exhilarating treble notes of blood orange and peony. Sharply delineated and tightly wound, dominated by its structure today. A more savory style than either the Clos Saint-Denis or Clos de la Roche, with dark berry, mineral and wild herb flavors carrying impressively on the extremely long, saline aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautiful bouquet with superb definition and seamlessly integrated oak, touches of truffle in the background and "mucking around" with the ebullient dark cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins. There is a fine seam of acidity here, the tannins a little rigid at the moment with a linear but with a precise finish. This is a well-crafted Bonnes-Mares fulfilling exactly what a Bonnes-Mares ought to be. Look forward to seeing how it turns out in bottle.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM

(Clos St. Denis- Domaine Dujac) When we started to taste the quite reserved 2013 Clos St. Denis, Jeremy Seysses chuckled, as he observed that “this wine was wide open yesterday and it was the Clos de la Roche that was shut down, and now today, it is the inverse.” In any case, this closed and grumpy wine is clearly going to be just fine in the fullness of time, as with some coaxing it reluctantly reveals an aromatic constellation of cherries, red plums, cloves, herb tones, woodsmoke, gamebirds, superb soil nuances and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and tightly-knit, with a great soil signature, ripe tannins, bright acids and fine length and grip on the closed, but intensely flavored finish. All this needs is time. (Drink between 2023-2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGFull, dark red. Captivating rose petal lift to the aromas of red fruits, iron and minerals; less earthy and more ethereal than the Clos de la Roche. Also juicier and tighter in the mouth, showing less early sweetness but terrific acid spine and lift to the sappy flavors of raspberry and salty minerals. This wine has really put on weight since its bottling, noted Diane Snowden. But it still boasts terrific cut and inner-mouth tension. Lay this one down.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2013 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, but underneath that there is a floral note and what appears to be fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied and takes time to coalesce in the glass, but it eventually finds good structure and an intriguing coconut note on the finish. Quite dense in the mouth, there is an appealing salinity within this Grand Cru, but I would give it 4 or 5 years before broaching a bottle.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM(Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) This is both more aromatically restrained and more elegant than the Clos de la Roche with its reluctant nose of rose petal, spiced tea and red and dark berry fruit aromas. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the refined middle weight flavors that exude a discreet bead of minerality that adds a bit of lift to the intense, balanced, focused and beautifully balanced finish. Textbook Clos St. Denis. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2014 Richebourg from Charles van Canneyt is stunning, with the elegance and transparency of the vintage finding a perfect dance partner in the depth and succulence of this cru. The superb bouquet wafts from the glass in a blend of red and black plums, cocoa powder, duck, a very complex base of soil tones, woodsmoke, violets and a lovely framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very refined out of the blocks, with a sappy core of fruit, great mineral drive, suave tannins and stunning backend energy on the precise and very, very long and complex finish. A great young example of Richebourg. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2014 Richebourg Grand Cru has a fabulous bouquet: complex and profound, quite floral in style with wonderful intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, more masculine than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant and perhaps without quite the same riveting tension and detail. That said, it comes across as extraordinarily fresh and vibrant, with hints of undergrowth and smoke towards the structured and masculine finish. It will need a few years to really settle into its groove, but it will surely evolve into a tremendous Richebourg.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPerfumed with subtle aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry coupled with nuances of cured meat. A very racy wine with a velvety texture and some sweet spices on the finish.Decanter | 95 DECMedium red Distinctly darker on the nose than the RSV, offering scents of blackberry, boysenberry, violet, smoky minerals and spicy oak Sappy, saline, broad and classically dry; distinctly thicker and more backward than the RSV, with its soil character currently dominating its primary fruits Superb volume here but rather uncompromising today; this wine will need a long time to emerge from its shell Finishes with hints of chocolate and mint The RSV shows more oaky sweetness but this wine is more profound (Incidentally, when I tasted the 2014s from bottle at Hudelot-Noëllat in late 2015, this wine showed more high-toned lift and early personality than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but then Charles van Canneyt has been telling me for years that these two grand crus are constantly "changing their position in the cellar" during their élevageVinous Media | 93+ VMDiscreet but not invisible wood frames the less expressive but similarly spicy nose of fresh and ripe plum, cassis and violet scents that also display a hint of herbal tea. There is outstanding volume and intensity to the lightly mineral-inflected big-bodied flavors that possess very fine depth and length on the well-balanced finale. This is very firmly structured and is going to require at least a decade of cellaring before it will be approachable.Burghound | 93 BH

A rich style, until the firm structure of vibrant acidity and dusty tannins reveals itself, supporting plenty of cherry, black currant, tobacco and mineral flavors. The essence of black currant lingers on an ethereal frame. Best from 2023 through 2042. 56 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Mazy-Chambertin- Domaine Armand Rousseau) The 2014 Rousseau version of Mazy-Chambertin is an absolutely quintessential expression of this fine terroir, wafting from the glass in a black fruity blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, black minerality, a touch of currant leaf, roasted game and a discreet topnote of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure on the attack, with great transparency, a lovely core of fruit, ripe tannins and a very, very long, tangy and laser-like finish. (Drink between 2025-2075)John Gilman | 93 JGThe 2014 Mazy Chambertin Grand Cru saw 10% new oak and a touch of reduction appeared to accentuate that. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. I like the weight here. There is more body and density than the Charmes-Chambertin, though with the same finesse on the lightly spiced finish. Once the aromatics sort themselves out, this will be a very fine Mazy-Chambertin, though the Charmes has more charm.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92-94 RP-NMModerate reduction renders the nose unreadable. On the plus side there is really lovely freshness and energy to the tautly muscular and slightly more concentrated medium weight flavors that culminate in an overtly austere and powerful yet not hard finale that goes on and on. This is really quite serious and note well that it's not an especially good candidate for early drink.Burghound | 91-94 BH(aged in 10% new oak, but most of the rest of the wine was racked into very young barrels in June): Healthy medium red. Sexy oak notes of coffee, mocha and spices complement dark cherry, berries, red licorice and wild herbs on the nose. Juicy and perfumed in the mouth, conveying an enticing hint of sweetness to the tangy black raspberry, spice, licorice and saline flavors. Finishes with firm, fine-grained tannins and noteworthy aromatic persistence, as well as a touch of roundness from the bit of new oak used for the first time for this cuvée. Previously, this wine has typically been more austere at this stage.Vinous Media | 90-93 VM

An intensely spicy and floral red berry and cassis-suffused nose merges seamlessly into impressively rich and full-bodied middle weight flavors that possess just a hint of minerality on the hugely long and palate staining finish. This lightly austere and beautifully well-balanced effort is an obvious wine of class and grace.Burghound | 93 BH(100% vendange entier; 80% new oak; from a healthy crop of 42 hectoliters per hectare):Bright red-ruby. A touch of reduction mostly dissipated to reveal classic Suchots scents of black raspberry, Oriental spices, flowers and fresh herbs, plus an intriguing note of paprika. Wonderfully silky, plush, generous wine with sneaky inner-mouth energy. The wine’s sweet oak component will need a few years to harmonize with its fruits and flowers. Finishes with terrific length and substantial ripe tannins. This should ultimately make a wonderfully complete Burgundy.Vinous Media | 92-95 VM

The 2014 is one of the best young vintage of Feusselottes that I have tasted from the Mugneret sisters. The stunning nose delivers a perfumed constellation of red plums, cherries, roses, gamebird, cocoa powder, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones and a gentle framing of nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and sappy at the core, with stunning soil signature, suave tannins and great length and grip on the laser-like finish. A beautiful bottle of Chambolle. (Drink between 2024 - 2065)John Gilman | 94 JGGood dark red A bit less pristine and high-pitched on the nose than the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Chaignots Round and silky on the palate, conveying an utterly seamless texture to the expressive flavors of strawberry, redcurrant and earth This doesn’t quite glisten in the mouth like the Chaignots does today but it’s still a wonderfully sappy, complex wine with slowly building red berry, mineral and earthy perfume A touch of pepper gives lift to the finishVinous Media | 92 VMThe 2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselots, which saw 50% new oak, has a crisp, tensile bouquet with more volume that the Nuits Saint Georges Chaignots. There is real transparency here: fabulous definition and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, tensile like the Chaignots but there is a touch of more fruit that seems a little darker and denser. The finish just skips along with joy. This is superb.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThough there is a touch of wood here as well it is more subtle and easily allows the cool red currant, pomegranate, cherry and softly spice-inflected aromas to be appreciated. There is a notably finer mouth feel to the seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that exhibit fine depth and length if perhaps not quite the same refreshing vibrancy on the dusty finish.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2014 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Narbantons is brisk, precise and beautifully sculpted, with plenty of red-toned fruit and floral accents, all of which add to the impression of energy. Still very much tightly wound, the Narbantons needs time in bottle to soften a bit. There is plenty to look forward to, that much is clear. Small red berry, anise and crushed flowers add nuance, the Narbantons is ultimately a wine of energy. And there is plenty of that here.Vinous Media | 93 VMAt 10 years of age, this is still cruising with only a touch of secondary character present on the still conspicuously earthy and cool nose of humus and underbrush characters that add breadth to the mostly dark berry fruit scents. There is unusually good density in the context of the vintage to the velvety middle weight flavors that possess an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate and buffers the firm tannins on the slightly rustic and austere yet wonderfully complex finale. This is still improving and while it could certainly be enjoyed now, I would advise holding it for another 5 to 8 years first.Burghound | 92 BHWhen broaching the 2014 Savigny lès Beaune les Narbantons, Lalou quipped that it was her "Petit Corton." It has a complex nose of red berry fruit, dried orange peel and even a distant scent of fresh fig. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, plenty of freshness and vitality here, a little hardness toward the finish and a light spicy aftertaste. Very fine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP