The VAULT

wines

The 2013 Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, wilted rose petals, a touch of lavender coming through with time. There is real vigor and generosity here. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a firm structure. There is wonderful depth and body that forms the foundation of this wine, coming across a little more masculine than the 2014, exerting a firm grip with a slightly curmudgeonly finish that just needs time to mellow. This is excellent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2013 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat was another late malo finisher and the wine was still on the grumpy side at the time of my visit, with a fairly expressive nose currently coupled to an out of sorts palate impression, but this will clearly be outstanding. The bouquet offers up a fabulous constellation of raspberries, cherries, blood orange, beautiful spice tones, lavender, complex soil nuances, fresh nutmeg and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and quite poised (despite its grumpy nature at the time of my visit), with fine mid-palate depth, nascently complexity, ripe tannins and superb length and grip on the tangy finish. This is going to be very, very special when it reaches its zenith. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 95-97 JGDeep red with ruby highlights. Sexy aromas and flavors of primary dark berries, black raspberry and cocoa powder complicated by spicy oak tones. Thick yet lively on entry; a youthfully imploded but utterly seamless wine with outstanding energy and depth. For all its density, this tactile, saline wine shows a magically light touch. Really builds and lingers on the superb rising finish, which features noble tannins. Still a baby, this grand cru has a great future.Vinous Media | 94+ VMRelative to the expressive example that I originally reviewed, this has begun to shut down and the nose is now brooding and only grudgingly gives up its spiced aromas of plum, dark currant and violets that are trimmed in hints of Asian-style tea and sandalwood. The sleek and ultra-refined mouth feel adds substantially to the sense of elegance though the balance is slightly impaired due to a tangy finish that is mildly lean and drying. This is without question quite classy but it’s not without a nit or two.Burghound | 91 BH

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru was showing some quality new oak on the nose that still needs to be subsumed. It is tightly coiled but it just needs time because there is freshness, definition and beguiling complexity locked in here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very well judged acidity and clever use of new oak lending body without compromising terroir expression. The finish feels focused and satisfying and the texture leaves you totally seduced. Class, class, class. Tasted September 2016.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPIt has been six years since I last tasted the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, when I wrote "Class. Class. Class." I have no need to alter that assessment. With fragrant raspberry, wild strawberry, crushed limestone and flint on the nose, this has a transparency that is a wonder to behold. The palate is beautifully balanced, poised with a fine line of acidity, full of tension with vivid red fruit on the finish that belies the structure underneath. Magnificent. Tasted at a private dinner in Beaune.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg is another great example of the vintage. The bouquet delivers and outstanding aromatic constellation of sweet dark berries, cassis, grilled meats, complex soil tones, espresso, woodsmoke, mustard seed and nutty new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very suave and refined on the palate, with a rock solid core, fine-grained tannins and superb backend energy on the very long and utterly classic finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2075)John Gilman | 95+ JGA markedly ripe nose presents notes of cassis, plum liqueur, earth, spice and a hint of the sauvage. As it virtually always is this is notably bigger, richer and more powerful than the Feusselottes with its sleekly muscular and equally mineral-driven flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration along with impressive depth and length on the youthfully austere finale. This is really lovely juice but note that patience will definitely be required.Burghound | 93 BH

Gaja’s 2013 Sperss is fabulous. Deep and powerful, yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2013 hits all the right notes. Graphite, game, smoke, licorice, plum, black cherry and dark spice are some of the signatures, but as is always the case with the best vintages, Sperss is a wine of vertical intensity and muscle. The 2013 won’t be anywhere near ready to drink for a number of years. All the pedgiree and character of these Serralunga sites come through in an exceptionally beautiful and vivid Barolo from Gaja.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe gem of the 2013s is the 2013 Barolo Sperss which comes from limestone-dominated soils. The 2013 is deep, concentrated, and structured, with a fabulous sense of minerality in its black cherry, leafy herbs, damp earth, and licorice aromas and flavors. From a late, cool vintage, it has awesome purity of fruit, plenty of tannins, and a huge finish. It’s a brilliant wine any way you look at it. I’d happily drink this elixir today, but it deserves at least 3-4 years and will keep for 25+.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis wine shows the quintessential attributes of the Serralunga d’Alba appellation with dark fruit flavors and powerful intensity. The 2013 Barolo Sperss paints a very authentic picture of its unique territory with rich layers of black fruit, wet earth, black truffle, licorice and spice. The wine’s tannic structure is firm and lasting. It shows broad shoulders and rich texture overall. This beautiful Barolo boasts a dark color and thick concentration with the aromatic elegance obtained in the 2013 vintage. This important wine is now part of the Barolo DOCG family.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPTextbook rose, tar and cherry aromas and flavors, with accents of oak spice, licorice and tobacco, are the hallmarks of this complex red. Powerful yet harmonious, showing fine structure and a lingering finish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 375 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSAmazing aromas of cherries, oranges and light prunes with hints of wet earth and mushrooms. Very perfumed. It’s medium-bodied, firm and direct. Great vino. Needs at least five years to come together but already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 96 JSUnderbrush, toast, menthol, grilled herb and star anise aromas lead the way. Firmly structured but loaded with finesse, the taut palate delivers Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and a toasted note while assertive, close-grained tannins provide the framework. It’s still young and austere so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE

Roberto Conterno opened the 2013 Barolo Cerretta as a comparison with the 2014. Powerful, dense and incredibly tannic, the 2013 is a potent, classically austere Barolo that will only soften with time. The only question is how much. Sage, licorice and rose petal overtones start to emerge with air, but readers should not be thinking of opening bottles any time in the near future.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2013 Barolo Cerretta shows that exuberant fruit that is so prominent in this vintage. Fruit was harvested two weeks later than average towards the end of October. This gave the Nebbiolo grape ample time to develop its aromatic nuance and intensity. The Cerretta vineyard is higher than average at 400 meters above sea level and that altitude has further helped to prolong the growing season (something the Nebbiolo grape loves). The site has more clay in the soils and vines are up to 20years old. There is a point of ripe cherry or sweet blackberry on the close. Behind the primary fruit is a pretty succession of tar, campfire smoke and tasted hazelnut aromas. This wine will be bottled in June.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA dense style, this red features cherry, strawberry, floral, mineral and tar aromas and flavors. Firms up quickly, with the tightly wound Serralunga profile. Balanced on the tannic side, requiring time, but the potential lies in the long, minerally aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2040. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

In 2010, Giuseppe Rinaldi adjusted the blend of their two Barolo to conform with the MGA labeling regulations. They now make a Brunate cru and the gorgeous Tre Tine. The backbone is 60% Ravera with Le Coste and Cannubi San Lorenzo contributing 20% each. Fresh, pure and haunting, it effortlessly brings together earthy base notes with bright red cherry and lifted lilac and violet scents. The fine-boned structure is all about enduring grace.Decanter | 97 DECDelicately fragrant and incredibly refined, this stunning red boasts alluring scents of blue flower, rose, wild berry and a whiff of new leather. It’s captivatingly ethereal and elegantly structured, offering crushed strawberry, red cherry, cinnamon and white pepper. It’s also impeccably balanced thanks to firm, polished tannins and bright acidity. While it’s already extremely tempting, hold for even more complexity. Drink 2023–2043. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KODelicately fragrant and incredibly refined, this stunning red boasts alluring scents of blue flower, rose, wild berry and a whiff of new leather. It’s captivatingly ethereal and elegantly structured, offering crushed strawberry, red cherry, cinnamon and white pepper. It’s also impeccably balanced thanks to firm polished tannins and bright acidity. While it’s already extremely tempting, hold for even more complexity. Drink 2023–2043.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2013 Barolo Tre Tine is a super-classic, vibrant wine that bristles with energy. Lithe and gracious, but with terrific intensity, the 2013 is also surprisingly accessible for a young Rinaldi Barolo. Perhaps the 2013 will shut down in bottle, but today, it is all polish. Although quite classic in feel, the 2013 is a bit lower in acidity than the 2010 and is also not forbiddingly tannic, both of which add to its immense appeal today. Scents of lavender, menthol, licorice and sweet red cherry develop in the glass, adding to the wine’s considerable appeal. Today, the 2013 is gorgeous.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis sleek red balances its rose aroma, ripe cherry and berry fruit, and leather, herb and iron flavors with a full, supportive structure. Stays fresh and focused on the lingering, mineral-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2020 through 2035. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis is a soft and sensual wine with long silkiness and smooth finesse. The 2013 Barolo Tre Tine offers less pulp and obvious fruit. Instead, the bouquet has already taken off towards ethereal aromas of cola, licorice and balsam herb. This wine is more immediate and less nervous next to the 2013 Barolo Brunate (that needs more time to relax). Yet, the Barolo Tre Tine already shows promising complexity and nuance. The firmness of the tannins at the back, however, remind you that this is a wine built to last.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Compared to the Le Vigne, the 2013 Aleste is slightly deeper and richer. Coming all from the Cannubi Boschis vineyard and aged 18 months in 500-liter French oak, it reveals incredible notes of black currants, blackberries, ground herbs, licorice, and smoked tobacco. Possessing medium to full-bodied richness, a stacked mid-palate, and serious amounts of tannin, it’s an incredible wine, yet certainly not for those seeking instant gratification. Hide bottles for 5-6 years and enjoy over the following 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2013 Barolo Aleste is a wine of striking purity and nuance. It is also one of the most finessed, vivid young Barolos I have ever tasted from Sandrone. The translucence of Nebbiolo comes through loud and clear. Freshly cut flowers, mint and finely cut fruit are some of the signatures. This wine has developed beautifully in recent vintages as the oak influence is less than it was just a few years ago. Beams of tannin and bright, salivating acidity add finesse to this translucent, exceptional Barolo. Aleste is the new name Sandrone is using for the Barolo formerly known as Cannubi Boschis.Antonio Galloni | 97+ AGFormerly known as Barolo Cannubi Boschis (the last vintage by that name was 2012), the 2013 Barolo Aleste has been renamed to honor the youngest generation of the Sandrone family, Alessia and Stefano. The wine name Aleste takes the first three letters from each grandchild's name. The move represents the culmination of more than 50 harvests completed by this legendary winemaker and his desire to pass on the torch. His grandchildren are at different points in their respective viticulture and enology university studies. Now under a different name, the wine obviously shows the same delicate floral nuances that you get with this wine (fruit from Cannubi is always harvested first). This is a complete and exciting wine with delicate notes of wild berry and smoke backed by licorice and blue flower.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPFormerly known as Cannubi Boschis, this impressive wine boasts alluring aromas of crushed raspberry, baking spice, chopped mint, violet and woodland berry. The savory elegant palate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, cinnamon, licorice and a hint of coffee. Fine-grained tannins and bright acidity provide polished support and great balance. Drink 2023–2038.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAs of 2013, Sandrone's iconic Cannubi Boschis bottling has been rebranded with the fantasy moniker Aleste, which fuses the names of Luciano's grandchildren Alessia and Stefano. The grapes still hail exclusively from the Cannubi Boschis cru, aged for 24 months in French tonneaux, less than 20% new. It is already open and appealing, with well-defined aromas of sweet spice, cedar, black raspberry and rose. The palate shows earthy restraint and balance, with a promising future. Drinking Window 2020 - 2037.Decanter | 96 DECExtremely perfumed with blackberry and chocolate aromas. Hints of mushrooms. Full body, soft and velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Shows wonderful potential. This replaces their Cannubi Boschis bottling. Better in 2020.James Suckling | 95 JSWell-structured, revealing dark fruit flavors of black cherry and black currant, with accents of iron, tobacco and tar. Has grip and a fresh feel, lingering on the licorice- and mineral-tinged finish. Best from 2020 through 2040. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Underbrush, new leather, wild herb and dark-skin berry aromas meld with balsamic whiffs of eucalyptus. The full-bodied firmly structured palate evokes raspberry compote, black cherry marinated in spirits, tobacco and star anise set against a backbone of close-grained tannins. This will age for decades. Drink 2023–2043.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDeep red-ruby. Delicate aromas of flinty red cherry and herbs complicated by hints of mocha and lifted by a bright violet topnote. Dense, rich and concentrated but light on its feet, offering a very polished mouthfeel thanks to serious but noble tannins that nicely frame the refined, steely red fruit flavors. Finishes long and very elegant. Just like the 2013 Brunello Rennina, this also has 15% alcohol but is so well balanced that you can hardly tell (unlike with the Rennina). Knockout young Brunello from Gaja, one of the very best in memory.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2013 Sugarille is more classic in style than the Rennina yet is still a ripe, sexy beast of a Brunello. Ripe cherries, red currants, spice, and balsamic notes all flow to a concentrated, medium to full-bodied effort that has nicely integrated acidity, solid mid-palate depth, and enough ripe tannins to keep it drinking nicely for 10-15+ years or more. It’s a beautiful wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe single-vineyard 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille has a tighter core and a blacker heart compared to the Rennina. This wine is momentarily more difficult to penetrate and comprehend. It makes a more abrupt first impression but then relaxes and reveals more of its character only after it has spent extra time in your company. Then, it becomes suddenly exuberant and loud. This is a dynamic expression of Sangiovese with bold ripe fruit, spice and balsam notes to carry it forward during cellar aging. This vintage offers firmness and strength. Some 20,000 bottles were produced (of both Sugarille and Rennina, respectively).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA mix of sweet plum, cherry, bouillon and graphite aromas and flavors, all backed by a solid structure, this is dense and tightly wound, with terrific balance and a long, focused finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA very aromatic red. Typical sangiovese aromas of cherry and rose petal with hints of bark. Full body, firm and silky tannins. A racy linear line runs through it. Tight and firm now. Give it two or three years to soften.James Suckling | 94 JS