Type of Wines

wines

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Musigny Vielles Vignes Grand Cru from de Vogüé has slightly brighter and more vivacious fruit than J-F Mugnier, and in fact, the two wines seem to go in two different trajectories in the glass, this blossoming and the other becoming more occluded. De Vogüé’s Musigny is unashamedly floral in style, very elegant and yet delineated. There is a noticeable estuary scents, mudflats and seaweed, that begin to permeate the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, wonderful acidity and succinctly integrated new oak that is barely tangible. It is intense but elegant, long and tender in the mouth. It is a fabulous Musigny, one of the best that the domaine has produced in recent years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA brooding but gorgeously spicy nose is comprised of liqueur-like dark berry fruit scents that also display plenty of floral influence that includes notes of lavender, violet and, somewhat curiously, honeysuckle. There is outstanding concentration and punch to the seductively textured and marvelously intense big-bodied flavors that are borderline robust as the supporting tannins are dense but refined. I really like the Zen-like sense of harmony to the explosively long and pungent mineral-driven finish that really stains the palate. This is flat out remarkable.Burghound | 97 BHThe 2012 Musigny Vieilles Vignes from the Comte de Vogüé is also a brilliant wine in the making. The deep, pure and nascently complex nose wafts from the glass in a stunning blend of red and black cherries, raspberries, red plums, cocoa, a stunning base of soil tones, hints of the smokiness to come, pungent (morning) violets and a discreet base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and perfectly focused, with a sappy core of fruit, glorious transparency, fine-grained tannins and impeccable balance on the very, very long, pure and perfectly focused finish. A great wine. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 97 JGDeep, bright red. Brilliantly complex, focused nose offers scents of redcurrant, blueberry, crushed stone, spices, red licorice, menthol and botanical herbs. Boasts extraordinary sweetness and depth to its chewy, sappy red and dark fruit flavors. Really bulletproof fruit here! Spreads out on the back half to saturate every square millimeter of the palate, finishing with penetrating berry fruit and salty minerality. Remarkably long and tactile.Vinous Media | 96+ VMFractionally more evolution to the colour compared to their Bonnes Mares. The bouquet is reserved but suggest great depth. There is a sensuality to the nose, and an assured length, but still we are waiting. This will grow from here, and has the weight of sensual fruit that we want, albeit for the moment in abeyance. Tasted Jun 2022.Jasper Morris | 94 JM

(13% alcohol; 60% new oak): Bright medium red. Very ripe aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerality and dried flowers. Plush, highly concentrated, outsized wine, combining grand cru volume with a surprisingly airy texture. Finishes with wonderfully suave tannins that saturate the entire palate and give shape to the wine’s fruit. Really outstanding soil-driven depth here.Vinous Media | 95 VMGorgeous texture with plush, velvety tannins and focused flavours. A stunning Malconsorts that has vibrant intensity. (Drink between 2019 - 2026)Decanter | 93 DECThis was sufficiently reduced to hide the fruit though not so much that the floral characters could not be perceived. This is a big wine even by the considerable standards of a classic Malconsorts with an overt muscularity to the concentrated yet impressively refined mouth feel to the utterly delicious flavors that are shaped by markedly firm tannins that are so well buffered by the rich dry extract that the wonderfully persistent finish is once again not especially austere. This should be excellent if given at least 7 to 10 years in a cool cellar though note that it should continue to improve for several years after that.Burghound | 92-94 BH

(this special cuvee is made from the southernmost of Faiveley’s three parcels in Clos de Beze; five barrels, three of them new): Good bright red. Very closed nose hints at rose petal and cinnamon. Wonderfully silky and sweet on the palate, with outstanding definition to the perfumed red raspberry and spice flavors. Finishes with explosive rising length and racy, fine-grained tannins. In its kernel of spice and its superb density and thrust, there’s something Musigny-like about this understated but potentially great wine.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThis is similar to the regular cuvée save for two aspects: this is a bit riper and notably more complex. The large-scaled flavors are also more concentrated with seemingly endless reserves of palate staining dry extract that also buffers the extremely firm tannic spine on the explosively long, balanced and powerful finish. This is stunningly good with massive potential though again, note that plenty of patience will be required.Burghound | 94-96 BH

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru les Amoureuses from Domaine Robert Groffier was perhaps the biggest, and I should add, pleasant surprise of this marathon tasting. Whereas once I felt the wines could be over-extracted and too alcoholic, here was a wine that exuded elegance, finesse and terroir. It has a well-defined bouquet, raspberry and black berry fruit intermingling with black truffle and sous-bois scents. The palate is very "serious" on the entry, saline on the entry with touches of bitter cherry, brambly black fruit and a little tar. There is certainly very fine structure here and superb balance, although patience will be needed. What a fabulous example of the vintage. Bravo Nicolas Groffier!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP(25% whole clusters): Bright medium red. Deep but reticent aromas of wild red berries, red cherry, cocoa powder and mint. Sweet and plush on entry, then savory and perfumed in the middle, with slightly high-toned raspberry and spice flavors lifted by notes of crushed stone, red licorice and flowers. Boasts considerable volume and density but finishes with a firm edge of acidity and a suggestion of peppery tannins. I would not be surprised if this wine evolved relatively quickly.Vinous Media | 92 VM

(one-third whole clusters): Good deep ruby-red. Smoky aromas of dark cherry, black raspberry and spices. Broad and fine-grained but tightly wound today, with serious but suave tannins currently dominating the wine’s fruit. This will need at least a few years of bottle aging upon release.Vinous Media | 90+ VMSoft floral hints add a touch of elegance to the pretty red currant, plum and earth aromas. There is once again a really lovely sense of underlying energy to the lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess admirable purity of expression, all wrapped in a mouth coating, linear and highly persistent finish. There is some youthful austerity and a hint of dryness present but the harmony is such that this should come together in time.Burghound | 90-92 BHThe 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, which comes from the domaine’s two parcels that total just over one hectarewas raised in 25% new oak. It includes one-third whole-cluster fruit and during elevage this cru tended to be reduced and therefore underwent more remontage than usual. The nose is difficult to discern at the moment and I feel that at this juncture it needs to divine more focus. The palate is better with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. The finish is masculine, foursquare but well-delineated, swerving towards an unexpected ferrous finish. This will need 4-5 years in bottle and should delight with bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

Bright red. Sappy black raspberry on the very ripe but energetic nose. A juicy, nicely balanced midweight with excellent dark fruit intensity and persistence. Finishes with a note of torrefaction.Vinous Media | 90 VMA cool and pure nose of red currant, earth and a hint of spice introduces detailed, energetic and delicious middle weight flavors that display excellent depth and length in the context of the appellation. Lovely stuff.Burghound | 89-91 BH

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru from Joseph Drouhin was another Clos-de-Bèze (alongside that of Chanson’s) that completely surpassed its showing out of barrel. It has a clean and refined bouquet with cola-tinged red berry fruit (cranberry leaf and raspberry) with touches of rooibos and bergamot emerging just behind. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin, impressive depth but with some new oak that clearly needs to be assimilated. Everything is being held back at the moment, but the class and stature here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2012 Clos de Bèze had been bottled at the end of October, but was still showing very well in mid-November, wafting from the glass in a superb aromatic constellation of black cherries, cassis, espresso, black minerality, grilled meats, mustard seed, woodsmoke and a lovely base of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with beautiful transparency, a sappy core of black fruit, fine-grained tannins, excellent focus and balance and a very, very long, poised and nascently complex finish. Given that this was just bottled, I would expect it to place at the upper end of the range when it has fully recovered. Great juice in the making. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 94-95+ JG(bottled at the end of October; includes some purchased grapes; vinified with 10% whole clusters): Bright, full red. Restrained nose hints at red fruits and smoky underbrush. Then sweet, silky and dense on the palate, showing considerable power as well as some spicy high tones. Saline, serious wine with an obvious sweet oak component and very good sneaky length. This wine spent 26 days on its skins. A bit shocked by the recent bottling, so my score should be viewed as provisional.Vinous Media | 92+ VMA spicy, cool and highly restrained nose features notes of various red berries, earth, humus and a hint of the sauvage. There is plenty of minerality that adds lift to the relatively supple middle weight flavors that are shaped by fine-grained tannins, all wrapped in a toasty finish that displays very good but not truly distinguished depth and length. To be sure the 2012 Bèze is a quality effort but it doesn’t seem, at least not at this very early juncture, to have that extra dimension present in say the Griotte or Musigny.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes shows a much more aromatic, lifted side of Chambolle than the Groseilles, which precedes it in this tasting. Sweet floral notes meld into bright red berries in a classy, understated Chambolle that should drink nicely pretty much right out of the gate. Finely cut, chalky tannins give the wine much of its drive and focus.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMThis offers a noticeable step up in aromatic elegance with its ultra-fresh, cool and restrained nose that is comprised of essence of red and blue pinot fruit, spice and stone nuances. There is excellent tension and beautiful delineation to the racy and silky medium-bodied flavors that also exude a fine bead of minerality on the delicious finish that tightens up quickly. This is a really beautiful and harmonious effort, indeed the word Zen comes to mind.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes comes from vines that border the village, around two-thirds planted in the 1920s, the rest in 1966. It owns one of the most appealing and complex aromatic profiles of the Chambolle premier crus, adorned with ripe blackberry, bilberry and mineral aromas that are vivacious and captivating to the senses. The palate is energetic with a crisp, citric line of acidity and impressive poise on the finish. I just love the vibrancy, the passion already evident in this Chambolle-Musigny.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP

(Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) A broad-ranging and distinctly cool nose features aromas of orange pekoe tea, white flowers, pomegranate and plenty of earthiness, all of which is trimmed in discreet but not invisible wood nuances. There is an equally cool and restrained mouth feel to the big-bodied, intense and muscular flavors that possess outstanding mid-palate concentration along with a beautiful sense of vibrancy and harmony to the gorgeously persistent finish. This overtly powerful effort will also need plenty of patience but should absolutely be worth the wait. (Drink starting 2028).Burghound | 95 BH(Bonnes-Mares- Domaine Dujac) The 2013 Domaine Dujac Bonnes-Mares is excellent, as it offers up a superb bouquet of plums, cherries, gamebirds, a marvelously complex base of soil, woodsmoke, roses, a dollop of fresh thyme and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very transparent in personality, with fine-grained tannins, lovely focus and a very long, poised and youthful finish. Classic Bonnes-Mares in the making. (Drink between 2025-2075).John Gilman | 95 JGDeep red. Pungent cherry, licorice and wild herbs on the nose, lifted by exhilarating treble notes of blood orange and peony. Sharply delineated and tightly wound, dominated by its structure today. A more savory style than either the Clos Saint-Denis or Clos de la Roche, with dark berry, mineral and wild herb flavors carrying impressively on the extremely long, saline aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautiful bouquet with superb definition and seamlessly integrated oak, touches of truffle in the background and "mucking around" with the ebullient dark cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins. There is a fine seam of acidity here, the tannins a little rigid at the moment with a linear but with a precise finish. This is a well-crafted Bonnes-Mares fulfilling exactly what a Bonnes-Mares ought to be. Look forward to seeing how it turns out in bottle.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM

(Clos St. Denis- Domaine Dujac) When we started to taste the quite reserved 2013 Clos St. Denis, Jeremy Seysses chuckled, as he observed that “this wine was wide open yesterday and it was the Clos de la Roche that was shut down, and now today, it is the inverse.” In any case, this closed and grumpy wine is clearly going to be just fine in the fullness of time, as with some coaxing it reluctantly reveals an aromatic constellation of cherries, red plums, cloves, herb tones, woodsmoke, gamebirds, superb soil nuances and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and tightly-knit, with a great soil signature, ripe tannins, bright acids and fine length and grip on the closed, but intensely flavored finish. All this needs is time. (Drink between 2023-2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGFull, dark red. Captivating rose petal lift to the aromas of red fruits, iron and minerals; less earthy and more ethereal than the Clos de la Roche. Also juicier and tighter in the mouth, showing less early sweetness but terrific acid spine and lift to the sappy flavors of raspberry and salty minerals. This wine has really put on weight since its bottling, noted Diane Snowden. But it still boasts terrific cut and inner-mouth tension. Lay this one down.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe 2013 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, but underneath that there is a floral note and what appears to be fine minerality. The palate is medium-bodied and takes time to coalesce in the glass, but it eventually finds good structure and an intriguing coconut note on the finish. Quite dense in the mouth, there is an appealing salinity within this Grand Cru, but I would give it 4 or 5 years before broaching a bottle.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93-95 RP-NM(Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) This is both more aromatically restrained and more elegant than the Clos de la Roche with its reluctant nose of rose petal, spiced tea and red and dark berry fruit aromas. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the refined middle weight flavors that exude a discreet bead of minerality that adds a bit of lift to the intense, balanced, focused and beautifully balanced finish. Textbook Clos St. Denis. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 92-95 BH

The biggest, richest wine in the lineup is the 327-case 2013 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard, which comes from the 4.8-acre Selleck Vineyard (this is one of the warmer terroirs on the estate). It was harvested from September 24th to October 4th, spending 18 months in 30% new puncheons before being bottled unfiltered. This is a blockbuster, rich, concentrated and textured Pinot Noir that has bright acidity, a huge core of fruit and layers of framboise, red currants, forest floor, mint, dried flowers and exotic spices. Needing air to show at its best, this beauty is up with the 2012 and absolutely one of the finest Pinot Noirs coming out of California. This totally profound wine will be better in a year or two and drink well for over a decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA wild, exotic wine, Calera’s 2013 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard is spectacularly rich, flamboyant and intense. Beams of tannin and phenolics give the wine its structural backbone and more than enough structure to handle the intense, super-ripe fruit. Today, the 2013 is very, very young. I can’t wait to see how it ages.Vinous Media | 97 VMFragrant lilacs and plump mulberries mix with black clove, allspice, pine needles and dark earth tones on this bottling by Josh Jensen from this 4.8-acre vineyard. The palate presents hearty sagebrush spice and an easily enjoyable character of black cherry that lead into the more complex pine sap, bay leaf, wild thyme and euclalytpus components.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEAn exuberant style, with an expressive mix of zesty blackberry and wild berry fruit, offering alluring floral scents of violet and spice. Holds focus and glides along gracefully on the finish, where the tannins give the flavors traction. Drink now through 2022. 317 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThere is a whiff of menthol sitting atop the overtly spicy and notably ripe essence of red pinot fruit and cherry-scented nose. The very rich, concentrated and sappy big-bodied flavors possess excellent size, weight and power while delivering fine length on the palate coating finish that also evidences just a touch of tannic edginess. This is very firmly structured and very clearly built-to-age, indeed this is going to need it. I should further observe that this manages to carry its elevated level of alcohol quite well, indeed there is only a trace of warmth. Note well though that patience will definitely be required. In sum, if your taste runs to big and bold, this qualifies.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2013 Clos de Bèze is a magical young wine in the making. The stunning bouquet is a brilliant blend of red and black cherries, black raspberries, exotic spice tones, raw cocoa, lovely meatiness, black minerality, a touch of fresh nutmeg and a very discreet base of cedary new wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and almost racy in its tanginess, with a sappy core of black fruit, magnificent complexity, extremely refined tannins, laser-like focus and a very, very long, svelte and intensely flavored finish. Today, this wine is a profound middleweight in profile, but I suspect it is in the process of putting on weight and will be plenty full-bodied when it reaches its summit of brilliance. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 98 JGA bright and beautiful colour, clear and bright, with a riotously stylish nose. It is not massive in this vintage but all the class is there. Indeed, Rousseau’s Clos de Bèze was hard to spit as the balance is nigh on perfect. Glossy without being vulgar, showing waves of detailed fruit, with admirable precision at the finish. Drink from 2023-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 96 JMSubtle if not invisible wood serves as a backdrop for the mildly reduced nose so again do yourself a favor and decant this if you’re going to crack one before 2020 or so. There is knock-out intensity to the gorgeously textured and mineral-inflected flavors that are imposingly scaled yet there is not even a hint of heaviness on the restrained, delineated and explosively long and mouth coating finale. This is a breathtakingly robust and powerful Bèze that is going to require all of 20 years to reach it zenith.Burghound | 95 BHGood dark red. More closed today than the Clos Saint-Jacques, showing a stronger oak presence to its reticent aromas of dark raspberry, strawberry and blood orange. Then hugely rich, opulent and pliant on the palate if still youthfully reserved. Completely different in shape from the Clos Saint-Jacques, conveying a strong impression of solidity and saline minerality. Finishes with big but ripe, thoroughly integrated tannins. This may not have quite the fruit intensity or verve of the 2014 but it still leaves the salivary glands humming.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin from the Drouhin family was one of the few grand crus that I tasted that had already been bottled at the time of my visit in December. This is one of the great, unsung grand crus in the domaine’s portfolio, for though the vines are not owned by the domaine, the family has been buying grapes from this particular vigneron for more than forty years. The 2013 is another outstanding success, offering up a pure and complex nose of cherries, red plums, grilled meats, cocoa, dark soil tones, lovely fresh herb tones and a deft touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, beautifully transparent and tangy, with a lovely core of sappy fruit, great focus and grip and a very long, pure and vibrant finish. Given this was just bottled, it would not surprise me if my score ultimately proves conservative! (Drink between 2023 - 2060)John Gilman | 94+ JGA concentrated, intense red, with cherry, strawberry, iron, tobacco and spice flavors locked up tight within the solid structure. All the components are in the right place, and the finish is long. Just needs time. Best from 2019 through 2032. 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru was showing some quality new oak on the nose that still needs to be subsumed. It is tightly coiled but it just needs time because there is freshness, definition and beguiling complexity locked in here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very well judged acidity and clever use of new oak lending body without compromising terroir expression. The finish feels focused and satisfying and the texture leaves you totally seduced. Class, class, class. Tasted September 2016.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPIt has been six years since I last tasted the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, when I wrote "Class. Class. Class." I have no need to alter that assessment. With fragrant raspberry, wild strawberry, crushed limestone and flint on the nose, this has a transparency that is a wonder to behold. The palate is beautifully balanced, poised with a fine line of acidity, full of tension with vivid red fruit on the finish that belies the structure underneath. Magnificent. Tasted at a private dinner in Beaune.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg is another great example of the vintage. The bouquet delivers and outstanding aromatic constellation of sweet dark berries, cassis, grilled meats, complex soil tones, espresso, woodsmoke, mustard seed and nutty new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very suave and refined on the palate, with a rock solid core, fine-grained tannins and superb backend energy on the very long and utterly classic finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2075)John Gilman | 95+ JGA markedly ripe nose presents notes of cassis, plum liqueur, earth, spice and a hint of the sauvage. As it virtually always is this is notably bigger, richer and more powerful than the Feusselottes with its sleekly muscular and equally mineral-driven flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration along with impressive depth and length on the youthfully austere finale. This is really lovely juice but note that patience will definitely be required.Burghound | 93 BH

Black cherry, raspberry and pepper flavors mark this vibrant red, holding back for now, but showing a sense of the depth and saturated fruit. The finish is firm and chalky, but this will open up with air and time. Best from 2019 through 2032. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a feisty, much more gourmand bouquet compared to its siblings at this early stage with almost meaty red berry fruit infused with limestone/flinty scents. The palate is very focused with an abiding sense of symmetry, long in the mouth with fine tannins (although not as filigree as the Taillepieds) but with the same silky and harmonious texture toward the long finish. Excellent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPBright medium red. Alluring superripe aromas of black cherry, mint and bitter chocolate: I would have guessed that this wine was vinified with some whole clusters but in fact it was entirely destemmed. A rather powerful Volnay with a slightly high-toned, almost porty ripeness to its black cherry, dark berry and chocolate flavors, but strong, slightly peppery acidity gives it a penetrating, somewhat disjointed quality in the early going. This deep, chewy Volnay finishes with big, granular tannins and excellent persistence.Vinous Media | 92+ VMReduction. Here there is more size, weight and power to the detailed and more subtly mineral-driven flavors that also possess a lovely texture on the dusty, palate coating and linear finish. This is impressively long and well-balanced though at present not quite as complex.Burghound | 90-93 BH

Healthy dark red. Highly complex but youthfully restrained nose offers scents of black fruits, violet, chocolate, menthol and minerals, along with some faintly liqueur-like high tones. Boasts outstanding density of texture, not to mention great lift and power for this bottling, with almost exotic fruit ripeness leavened by strong acidity. Finishes with spectacular lingering perfume of violet, bitter chocolate, wild herbs and mint. An amazingly strong, bulletproof Volnay for the year--or for any vintage, for that matter.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis red offers well-defined cherry, currant and spice flavors, supported by vibrant acidity. Saturated with pure, ripe cherry fruit midpalate, this firms up, yet remains balanced and mouthwatering on the long finish, showing spice and chalk accents. Best from 2018 through 2030. 95 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which will contain some new oak although I tasted from a used barrel, has a tightly knit bouquet that at the moment is less expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin. The palate is crisp and pure, quite tensile, with a spiciness that becomes more prominent toward the fleshy, harmonious finish. Curiously, even from a used barrel the texture feels as if there is some new oak, but that is just the concentration of fruit coming through. Frédéric enthused about this wine and I suspect that it may surpass my expectations once in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2013 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Rousseau saw ten percent new wood in this vintage, with the remainder of the barrels used for the elevage primarily one wine casks. The wine was a touch reduced at the time of my visit, but opened up with some swirling to reveal a promising bouquet of red and black cherries, meaty tones, dark soil, woodsmoke, a touch of mustard seed and a discreet base of nutty oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, long and very pure on the attack, with a fine core, ripe tannins and a long, youthfully reticent and tangy finish. This will be a lovely vintage for this wine, but like the Mazy, it deserves a decade in the cellar to really come into its own. (Drink between 2023 - 2055)John Gilman | 92-93+ JGAn unusually high-toned nose is comprised by a pretty array of red berry fruit, earth and Asian style tea nuances. There is really lovely detail and vibrancy to the middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the restrained and lingering finish. This delivers surprisingly good flavor authority given that this is not nearly as concentrated as the best in the range. In sum this is a beautifully well-delineated wine of harmony if not power that should reward mid to longer-term aging as the supporting tannins are also dense but fine.Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was impressive from barrel, but in bottle I found it coming up a bit short. Firstly, it is extremely reduced on the nose and after two or three hours there is little change. It is dense and muscular, very concentrated in style (perhaps atypically for this cuvée from Rousseau) and yet the finish feels a bit chunky and lacks finesse. Yes, it is too young, but here it is easily surpassed by Cathiard’s Malconsorts. Tasted at 21 Boulevard restaurant in Beaune.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Good bright, deep red. Complex, subtle aromas of raspberry, redcurrant and graphite minerality, plus some sexy oak tones. Ripe and silky, even plump for the year, but classically dry and light on its feet. Saturates the mouth and cheeks without leaving any impression of heaviness. At this point in my tasting, Marie-Christine Mugneret noted that these 2013s had been uncorked the previous evening. They are showing spectacularly now and I suspect they benefited dramatically from aeration. Finishes with very suave, even tannins and a suggestion of minty lift. Very classy juice.Vinous Media | 94 VMAn exuberantly spicy nose exhibits notes of raspberry liqueur, earth and essence of black cherry scents as well as enough wood to notice. Here too there is a distinctly sleek mouth feel to the suave and very seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that possess impressive power in the context of the appellation and simply knock-out depth and length. This impeccably well-balanced effort is a notably more robust and concentrated vintage of this wine than usual that should age well for a long time to come.Burghound | 94 BHThe Mugnerets usually get six to seven casks of Echézeaux in a normal vintage, but in 2013, the old vines in their holding in the climat of Rouge de Bas were really badly affected by the poor flowering in this year and there are only four casks of this lovely wine as a result- the same as in 2012. It is too bad that there is not more quantity, as the quality here is exceptional, with the wine soaring from the glass in a blaze of black cherries, cassis, gamebirds, violets, a gloriously complex base of soil, dark chocolate and nutty new wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and supremely elegant in personality, with great mid-palate depth, impeccable balance, ripe tannins and outstanding transparency on the very long, tangy and perfectly focused finish. A beautiful wine in the making. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 94+ JGThe 2013 Echézeaux Grand Cru, which comes from two parcels in the lieux-dits “Les Rouges du Bas” (70-year-old vines on métayage from Fabrice Vigot) and “Quartiers du Nuits” (on métayage with Pascal Mugneret) has a seductive bouquet in the same vein as the Nuits Chaignots with very pure dark cherries, bergamot and mineral scents. The palate is rounded in the mouth with very good weight. It does not quite have the delineation or complexity of the 2012 at the moment, but there is a lovely caressing finish. This will be giving pleasure earlier than the other crus, but it should still age well.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP

The 2013 Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, wilted rose petals, a touch of lavender coming through with time. There is real vigor and generosity here. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a firm structure. There is wonderful depth and body that forms the foundation of this wine, coming across a little more masculine than the 2014, exerting a firm grip with a slightly curmudgeonly finish that just needs time to mellow. This is excellent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2013 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat was another late malo finisher and the wine was still on the grumpy side at the time of my visit, with a fairly expressive nose currently coupled to an out of sorts palate impression, but this will clearly be outstanding. The bouquet offers up a fabulous constellation of raspberries, cherries, blood orange, beautiful spice tones, lavender, complex soil nuances, fresh nutmeg and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and quite poised (despite its grumpy nature at the time of my visit), with fine mid-palate depth, nascently complexity, ripe tannins and superb length and grip on the tangy finish. This is going to be very, very special when it reaches its zenith. (Drink between 2025 - 2075)John Gilman | 95-97 JGDeep red with ruby highlights. Sexy aromas and flavors of primary dark berries, black raspberry and cocoa powder complicated by spicy oak tones. Thick yet lively on entry; a youthfully imploded but utterly seamless wine with outstanding energy and depth. For all its density, this tactile, saline wine shows a magically light touch. Really builds and lingers on the superb rising finish, which features noble tannins. Still a baby, this grand cru has a great future.Vinous Media | 94+ VMRelative to the expressive example that I originally reviewed, this has begun to shut down and the nose is now brooding and only grudgingly gives up its spiced aromas of plum, dark currant and violets that are trimmed in hints of Asian-style tea and sandalwood. The sleek and ultra-refined mouth feel adds substantially to the sense of elegance though the balance is slightly impaired due to a tangy finish that is mildly lean and drying. This is without question quite classy but it’s not without a nit or two.Burghound | 91 BH

A rich style, until the firm structure of vibrant acidity and dusty tannins reveals itself, supporting plenty of cherry, black currant, tobacco and mineral flavors. The essence of black currant lingers on an ethereal frame. Best from 2023 through 2042. 56 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Mazy-Chambertin- Domaine Armand Rousseau) The 2014 Rousseau version of Mazy-Chambertin is an absolutely quintessential expression of this fine terroir, wafting from the glass in a black fruity blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, black minerality, a touch of currant leaf, roasted game and a discreet topnote of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure on the attack, with great transparency, a lovely core of fruit, ripe tannins and a very, very long, tangy and laser-like finish. (Drink between 2025-2075)John Gilman | 93 JGThe 2014 Mazy Chambertin Grand Cru saw 10% new oak and a touch of reduction appeared to accentuate that. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. I like the weight here. There is more body and density than the Charmes-Chambertin, though with the same finesse on the lightly spiced finish. Once the aromatics sort themselves out, this will be a very fine Mazy-Chambertin, though the Charmes has more charm.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92-94 RP-NMModerate reduction renders the nose unreadable. On the plus side there is really lovely freshness and energy to the tautly muscular and slightly more concentrated medium weight flavors that culminate in an overtly austere and powerful yet not hard finale that goes on and on. This is really quite serious and note well that it's not an especially good candidate for early drink.Burghound | 91-94 BH(aged in 10% new oak, but most of the rest of the wine was racked into very young barrels in June): Healthy medium red. Sexy oak notes of coffee, mocha and spices complement dark cherry, berries, red licorice and wild herbs on the nose. Juicy and perfumed in the mouth, conveying an enticing hint of sweetness to the tangy black raspberry, spice, licorice and saline flavors. Finishes with firm, fine-grained tannins and noteworthy aromatic persistence, as well as a touch of roundness from the bit of new oak used for the first time for this cuvée. Previously, this wine has typically been more austere at this stage.Vinous Media | 90-93 VM

The 2014 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard may end up being the greatest vintage for this vineyard to date. Offering a thrilling bouquet of black raspberries, sassafras, mint, ginger, and exotic flowers, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a wealth of sweet fruit, ripe, polished tannin and great, great finish. It’s the most opulent and sexy of the 2014s, yet stays beautifully balanced and is going to age gracefully for upwards of two decades. It’s one of those Do-Not-Miss wines from Calera.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDCropped at minuscule yields of 0.63 tons per acre, the 2014 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard was my favorite of these single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from Calera. An opaque ruby-black in hue, the wine offers up a rich and complex bouquet of cassis, plums, figs, black truffle and creamy oak. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, rich and powerful, structured around a chewy chassis of tannin but possessing good energy and depth. On opening, this vintage of Selleck is almost brutally primary and atypically concentrated, but it becomes considerably more harmonious with extended aeration: while this will demand patience, it should be superb in the fullness of time. If you must try a bottle young, consider decanting.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RP(Calera Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard Central Coast Red) The 2014 Pinot Noir Selleck Vineyard is one of the riper, more extroverted wines in this range. I expect the Selleck will, in time, be superb, but it needs at least a few years to shed some baby fat. Today, it comes across as quite ripe and intense. Dark cherry, plum lavender, mint and exotic spice overtones add to the wine’s distinctly bold personality. (Drink between 2022-2034)Antonio Galloni | 94 AGJosh Jensen finds that his Selleck vines produce some of his most concentrated pinot noir. Planted in 1975 on a rocky ridge of decomposed granite and pockets of limestone, the vineyard is 4.8 acres with exposures to the south and southwest. This 2014 is saturated with flavor, deep in its bass notes of cherries, rich and bold. It’s completely savory, almost staunch in its formal structure, a wine of stature to age for a decade or more. (210 cases)Wine & Spirits | 94 W&SWith just over a half-ton harvested per acre due to the drought, this is a potent wine, with nose-tickling dark boysenberry, asphalt and wet stone aromas and brighter lifts of dried sage and raspberry. The soft palate combines vibrant acidity with raspberry and mulberry flavors and a hint of dried herbs.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

This is at once more elegant and spicier as well with its pretty combination of red currant, cherry, lavender and sandalwood hints. There is a sleek and lacy mouth feel to the refined middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the balanced, delicious and persistent finale. This is very Chambolle in style.Burghound | 88-92 BH

Here the equally brooding nose is slightly more elegant with its cool and restrained nose of red currant, cassis, spice and earth scents that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. Like the Poisets this is notably rich with its relatively large-scaled flavors that also enjoy good density thanks to the abundant dry extract that also coats the palate and pushes the firmer supporting tannins to the background. Lovely.Burghound | 90-92 BH(vinified with 40% whole clusters): Medium red. Fruit-driven aromas of red cherry and strawberry. The silkiest and thickest of these 2014s to this point but with plenty of energy and cut. Boasts a sexy stem component and finishes juicy and persistent, with plenty of ripe tannins. Charles Lachaux told me that he uses the whole-cluster fermentation to soften the structure of this wine and he predicts that it will make a nice drink in five years, earlier than past vintages.Vinous Media | 89-92 VM

Dark red with ruby tones. Deeply pitched aromas of currant, dark cherry, licorice and leather. Dense, sweet, slightly leathery wine with noteworthy depth of texture. Not showing the light mineral touch it displayed from barrel a year ago but this is quite ripe and broad--even a bit chocolatey--for the vintage. Finishes with slightly tough tannins.Vinous Media | 90 VMWhile not as pretty as the Chaumes this is notably complex with its subtly wooded nose of earth black currant, game, smoke and lovely floral hints. There is markedly better concentration to the delicious and suave middle weight flavors that possess excellent intensity and volume as well as impeccable balance. This isn’t as refined as the Chaumes but the additional concentration and complexity make this the more interesting wine.Burghound | 90-93 BH

An intensely spicy and floral red berry and cassis-suffused nose merges seamlessly into impressively rich and full-bodied middle weight flavors that possess just a hint of minerality on the hugely long and palate staining finish. This lightly austere and beautifully well-balanced effort is an obvious wine of class and grace.Burghound | 93 BH(100% vendange entier; 80% new oak; from a healthy crop of 42 hectoliters per hectare):Bright red-ruby. A touch of reduction mostly dissipated to reveal classic Suchots scents of black raspberry, Oriental spices, flowers and fresh herbs, plus an intriguing note of paprika. Wonderfully silky, plush, generous wine with sneaky inner-mouth energy. The wine’s sweet oak component will need a few years to harmonize with its fruits and flowers. Finishes with terrific length and substantial ripe tannins. This should ultimately make a wonderfully complete Burgundy.Vinous Media | 92-95 VM