Type of Wines

wines

It has been some years since the last time I cracked a bottle and at 22 years of age, it would be fair to say that this has reached its apogee with a really lovely and fully mature nose redolent of fully mature secondary aromas that do not yet evidence any notes of sous-bois. There is excellent richness to the delicious, sappy and still solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess excellent depth and fine length. This is not an especially refined effort but one that is most satisfying and while there is no further upside development to be had, neither is there any rush to drink up. In a word, lovely.Burghound | 91 BHA firm wine that offers generous, clear black cherry, raspberry and spice aromas and flavors. Solid, with pure, focused flavors balanced by enough acidity and tannin. Drinkable now to 1998. 375 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

(one-third whole clusters): Good deep ruby-red. Smoky aromas of dark cherry, black raspberry and spices. Broad and fine-grained but tightly wound today, with serious but suave tannins currently dominating the wine’s fruit. This will need at least a few years of bottle aging upon release.Vinous Media | 90+ VMSoft floral hints add a touch of elegance to the pretty red currant, plum and earth aromas. There is once again a really lovely sense of underlying energy to the lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess admirable purity of expression, all wrapped in a mouth coating, linear and highly persistent finish. There is some youthful austerity and a hint of dryness present but the harmony is such that this should come together in time.Burghound | 90-92 BHThe 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, which comes from the domaine’s two parcels that total just over one hectarewas raised in 25% new oak. It includes one-third whole-cluster fruit and during elevage this cru tended to be reduced and therefore underwent more remontage than usual. The nose is difficult to discern at the moment and I feel that at this juncture it needs to divine more focus. The palate is better with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. The finish is masculine, foursquare but well-delineated, swerving towards an unexpected ferrous finish. This will need 4-5 years in bottle and should delight with bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RP

Here the equally brooding nose is slightly more elegant with its cool and restrained nose of red currant, cassis, spice and earth scents that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. Like the Poisets this is notably rich with its relatively large-scaled flavors that also enjoy good density thanks to the abundant dry extract that also coats the palate and pushes the firmer supporting tannins to the background. Lovely.Burghound | 90-92 BH(vinified with 40% whole clusters): Medium red. Fruit-driven aromas of red cherry and strawberry. The silkiest and thickest of these 2014s to this point but with plenty of energy and cut. Boasts a sexy stem component and finishes juicy and persistent, with plenty of ripe tannins. Charles Lachaux told me that he uses the whole-cluster fermentation to soften the structure of this wine and he predicts that it will make a nice drink in five years, earlier than past vintages.Vinous Media | 89-92 VM

Dark red with ruby tones. Deeply pitched aromas of currant, dark cherry, licorice and leather. Dense, sweet, slightly leathery wine with noteworthy depth of texture. Not showing the light mineral touch it displayed from barrel a year ago but this is quite ripe and broad--even a bit chocolatey--for the vintage. Finishes with slightly tough tannins.Vinous Media | 90 VMWhile not as pretty as the Chaumes this is notably complex with its subtly wooded nose of earth black currant, game, smoke and lovely floral hints. There is markedly better concentration to the delicious and suave middle weight flavors that possess excellent intensity and volume as well as impeccable balance. This isn’t as refined as the Chaumes but the additional concentration and complexity make this the more interesting wine.Burghound | 90-93 BH

Medium deep red, some green notes to the bouquet. Whole bunches. Develops more florally. There is real concentration here, an impressive intensity that will deliver something impressive in the long run, but only to those prepared to tolerate a measure of under-ripeness. DIAM 30 Tasted Sep 2017.Jasper Morris | 91 JM(100% vendange entier; 35% new oak): Good medium red. Subdued aromas and flavors of raspberry, black cherry, earth and smoky minerality accented by hints of pepper and herbs from the stems. Broad, ripe and smooth but quite dry. Displays very good spicy energy, length and lift but the substantial dusty tannins leave the finish a bit clenched today. This slightly edgy wine will need patience.Vinous Media | 90+ VMAn overtly floral-inflected nose displays a lovely, fresh and again cool array of spice, red pinot fruit and a hint of wet stone. The stony character can also be found in abundance on the highly energetic, chiseled and saline yet attractively rich medium-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding length on the dusty and mildly austere but very well-balanced finale. This is terrific but note well that patience will be required.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2019 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a less flamboyant bouquet than its peers. This feels more reserved and flinty, though very nicely defined and focused. The palate is well balanced, with the weight and density I look for in a Vaillon, and a little spicier than the Vosgros. A touch of lemongrass and a hint of green olive appear toward the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 91 VMAromas of peach, apricot, honey, white flowers and iodine preface the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming wine that’s the most demonstrative premier cru in the cellar this year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Matured for one year in barrel and six months in tank, the 2019 Montagny 1er Cru delivers aromas of pear, peach and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and charming, with a satiny attack and mouthwatering acids, it’s the most open-knit, giving white in the cellar, and it’s drinking well out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPPurchased fruit, blended from two sites - L’Épaule and Creux de Beauchamp - planted with old vines. Both vineyards are densely planted and propagated using massale selection, to give super-ripe grapes with aromas of apple and just a bit of spice. A long maturation on the lees gives this wine a density and supple texture that is truly appealing. Drinking Window 2021 - 2029.Decanter | 90 DEC

Purchased grapes, picked on 28th August. Mid lemon yellow, clearly a riper bouquet, slightly pungent even, the reduction showing less strongly gunflint, a bit more vegetal maybe. Good flesh on the bones, and I like the way this follows through. Some pears. Not really in place but I suspect may have greater potential than today’s showing. Tasted: October 2021.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

An intense, focused white, with crushed stone and chalk dust framing green apple, lemon and greengage flavors. Balanced and long, with a steely finish. Drink now through 2028. 1,750 cases made, 175 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSNice density and concentration on the palate, with green apple acidity underneath. Suspect this will be a good Vaudevey, but being a tank sample will need to be re-tasted in bottle.Decanter | 91 DECAnother typical lemon and lime colour. Pleasing and perfumed nose with some steel behind, plus something of the grassy character of this vineyard. A lemon infusion to bring up the finish. Tasted: July 2021.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JM

Aromas of stone fruits, citrus zest, toasted nuts and smoke introduce the 2020 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively wine that’s bright and mineral, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA background hint of smoke is present on the cool and fresh citrus-suffused aromas of mostly apple and pear that exhibit a floral top note. The moderately voluminous medium-bodied flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel while exuding a subtle bead of minerality on the dry, lemony and sneaky long finale. This too could easily be enjoyed after only 2 to 3 years of bottle aging.Burghound | 90 BH

Here there is less citrus and more floral influence on the white pepper and mineral reduction-inflected nose. The sleek, intense and attractively textured medium-weight flavors possess a bracing salinity on the agreeably dry, chiseled and well-focused finale that is just a bit firmer. Lovely.Burghound | 91 BHThe 2020 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a flinty, focused, energetic nose that feels more harmonious than the preceding Côte de Léchet. The palate is taut, fresh and saline in the mouth, showing great depth and concentration toward the finish. This will be worth looking out for.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Pale colour. A light and elegant nose, some marine notes behind, gentle but showing well, with a little more volume behind, a wave of white fruit and an attractively nuanced finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Jul 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Unusually supple and charming for a young wine from this site, the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots Rouge reveals notes of plums, rose petals, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, giving and open-knit palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA restrained and slightly somber nose features notes of pepper, cherry, raspberry and more prominent earth influence. The delicious medium weight flavors possess a fleshy, plump and round mouthfeel while exhibiting fine depth and persistence on the mildly rustic finish. While this well-made effort could also be enjoyed young, a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.Burghound | 90 BH

Showing a distinct green tinge in the glass. Plenty of purity and finesse, but not as dramatic as some premier crus. Missing a bit of complexity at the moment, although this will evolve with more time in bottle. Didier Séguier emphasised the need to pick early to preserve freshness. 20% matured in old barrels after malolactic fermentation.Decanter | 91 DECLocated at the very start of Troesmes, 55 to 60 year old vines. Fine fresh lemon yellow. A clean and elegant fruit forward nose, lighter in style than most 1ers crus, hence its place in the line-up. Youthful bitters again, then a serene follow through, pure and precise. Fine elegant finish. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JMThe 2022 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru comes from 1.1 hectares of vines near the Troesmes vineyard, aged in 25-30% used oak. It takes a few swirls of the glass to get into its groove, scents of white flowers complementing green apple and Conference pear aromas. The palate is well-balanced with a peppery entry, a fine bitter lemon note lending nerve. Quite strict and classic in style, this Beauroy will deserve a couple of years in bottle.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMA whiff of exotic fruit lurks in the background of the aromas of white peach, spiced apple and seaweed nuances. Here too there is very good energy to the appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors thanks to the abundance of dry extract that also buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the lemon zest-inflected finale. While this could also use better depth, the underlying material is here for that to occur in time.Burghound | 89-92 BH

A more moderate dollop of wood can be found on the smoky aromas of petrol, rosemary oil and a variety of white fleshed fruit. The finer, though not nearly as concentrated, medium weight flavors display excellent power on the focused, balanced and saliva-inducing finale. This is more classic in style than any of the foregoing 1ers and a wine that should repay mid-term keeping.Burghound | 90-92 BH

Here are the nose is really quite floral in character with a pretty combination of spiced pear, apple and a background hint of petrol. The succulent and rich larger-bodied flavors possess an abundance of mouthcoating dry extract that serves to buffer the moderately firm acid spine shaping the longer and more complex finale. This is really quite good and should also reward up to a decade of keeping.Burghound | 91 BH

Here too there is subtle if perceptible wood framing the ripe citrus confit and white orchard fruit-scented nose. The delicious and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel while exuding a bead of minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, firmer and slightly longer finale. Lovely and understated in style.Burghound | 91 BHBottled in early August. Clear colour, a softer white fruit here, open and delicious. Seems more generous but less precise compared to Chenevottes but there is certainly plenty of wine here. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Pale clear lemon. This is one of the more crystalline Maltroies, from vines below the house. Then fleshier on the palate with good white fruit concentration. The wine maintains a fine balance throughout between the flesh and the more linear thread. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru was picked a couple of days earlier than the Clos des Murées. Despite being opened the evening before my visit, there is still some reduction on the nose. The palate is taut, fresh, quite nutty and Meursault-like in style with an energetic, persistent finish. Give this a year or two in bottle—it is very promising.Vinous Media | 91+ VMHere too there is a suggestion of the exotic with its citrus confit and white and yellow peach-scented nose. The seductive, round and generously proportioned flavors retain good punch that carries over to the bone-dry, balanced and lemon-tinged finale. As is usually the case, this is quite fine, indeed it’s a wine of finesse and if it can add more depth than I presently project, my rating may well be too conservative.Burghound | 90 BH

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a little more mineralité on the nose than the Vergers. Its bouquet contains light hints of clementine and beeswax aromas. The palate is well balanced, fresh and concentrated with a slightly viscous opening. It just needs a little more terroir to shape the finish.Vinous Media | 90 VM