White and Rosé Wines for Spring

wines

The Tajinaste Blanco Seco is made from a cépages of ninety percent Listán Blanco and ten percent Albillo Criollo. The wine is fermented in tank and most of the cuvée is also aged in stainless steel, but about thirty percent of the blend is given three or four months of élevage in older oak casks. The 2022 version offers up a vibrant nose of lime, tart pear, green olive, lemongrass, salty minerality, raw almond and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with lovely depth at the core, fine mineral drive and grip, zesty acids and a long, well-balanced and classy finish. This is excellent juice. 2024-2040.     John Gilman | 93 JG

Lastly, the 2022 Chardonnay Rosemary’s Vineyard is another Arroyo Grande release that saw 14 months in 30% new French oak. It’s a slightly more savory, masculine styled effort that has both citrus and stone fruits, lots of crushed stone minerality, honeyed white flowers, blanched almonds, and subtle spicy oak aromas and flavors. It has rock-solid concentration, bright yet integrated acidity, and a gorgeous finish. It’s up with the finest Chardonnay in the vintage.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2022 Chardonnay Rosemary’s Vineyard is another gorgeous Chardonnay from Brian Talley and his team. Complex and multi-dimensional, the Rosemary’s is wonderfully dynamic from start to finish. Layers of rich orchard fruit intermingle with bright acids and light tropical accents that add raciness. I especially admire its complex, multi-dimensional personality.Vinous Media | 95 VMA stunningly beautiful Chardonnay, the Rosemary’s is from the coolest site, the cool Talley Estate. Planted in 1987 to complement the Pinot Noir planted across the estate driveway. Within three to five years, this wine will become ethereal. Beguiling aromatics of lemon verbena, English hawthorn and concentrated grilled fleshy pineapple with a kiss of herbaceous wild tarragon. The texture is extraordinary, and 14 months of sur lie elevage in 30% new French oak has imparted intense lemon curd flavours, lemon oil and grilled lemon peel. There’s a soaring minerality marked by briny sea air, bright white pepper and savoury notes of cardamom mark the finish. (Tasted from bottle #5631.)Decanter | 95 DECA generous, plush, delicious wine with ample baked-fruit flavors and spicy vanilla bean accents. Medium-bodied with energizing acidity and a lingering finish. Estate grown on the Talley family’s original vineyard site. Sustainable. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSAged for 14 months in 30% new French oak, the 2022 Chardonnay Rosemary’s Vineyard splits the difference between a fresh, vibrant frame and toasty, punchy richness. The nose is reminiscent of a classic California Chardonnay, albeit with notably more verve and zest. The palate is powerful, yellow-fruited and creamy, leading to a finish that combines butterscotch-laden power with saline, stony refreshment.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

From the cool climate, Talley Vineyards in the SLO Coast is a sterling example of saline minerality and finely etched citrus fruits that true coastal regions can produce—aromatics of grilled lemon, sea air, petrichor, and crushed slate. The palate is linear, with intense Meyer lemon pulp, flinty lime peel, and tangy grilled pineapple flesh—gorgeous intensity.Decanter | 94 DECA mellow, ripe but balanced wine that’s super smooth, fresh and lingering in the finish. Medium-bodied with good acidity and subtle baked apples, lemon zest, toast and minerals. Barrel fermented with native yeast. Sustainable. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS

With only a tiny proportion of oak (8% of the volume), the 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Batch 111 The House features classic grapefruit and grassy aromas, plus hints of snow pea and pineapple. It’s medium to full-bodied, plump, round and easy to drink, with enough citrus zest on the finish to keep me coming back for additional sips.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPFruity and herbal influences vie for dominance in this full-bodied, relatively crisp wine. Opening with cut grass and parsley aromas, the wine moves to vivid lemon and grapefruit flavors on a lively texture. Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Perfumed and delicate upon first pour, the 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Vieris slowly evolves, wafting up with dusty white flowers and cracked slate, evolving into ginger-infused pear and green melon. This is cool-toned with soothingly round textures, yet energetic as well, showcasing ripe pit fruits and crunchy mineral tones that add tactile satisfaction toward the close. The 2022 tapers off with a floral resonance and long, becoming classically dry and slightly austere, demanding patience while still leaving the palate completely refreshed. Despite the warm vintage, this is a Vieris that will excel in the cellar.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis well-meshed white is compact up front, opening on the palate to reveal layers of melon, grapefruit peel, lentil and chive blossom notes framed by vibrant acidity. A smoke-tinged, mineral-driven underpinning echoes on the finish. Drink now through 2032. 600 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Light coral in hue. Bursting with lively aromas of ripe strawberries, zesty blood oranges, and delicate floral notes, intertwined with hints of aromatic herbs. On the palate, it is crisp and focused, showcasing dynamic flavors of red berries, tangy tangerines, and subtle florals, which evolve gracefully towards the finish. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 92 SP

Rich and buttery, this white also delivers peach, lemon and spice flavors. Balanced and verging on creamy in texture, this lingers nicely on the spice- and pastry-tinged finish. Drink now through 2029. 717 cases made, 502 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

From 80- to 90-year-old vines picked at 78° Oechsle, the 2022 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett opens with a pretty reductive and sulfidic bouquet with stony and herbal notes wrapping around the bright fruits and white blossom aromas. This wine needs lots of air, but Constantin has already fallen in love with the nose now. Savory, clear and refined on the palate, with crystalline, finely grained acidity and a salivating taste of slate, this is a very promising Kabinett from the iconic cru in Wehlen. The 2022 should be aged for at least 5-10 years, and it will reward your patience with great finesse and complexity. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2023 Gewurztraminer Brand Grand Cru combines a lovely mix of nettle, rose, white summer blossom and juicy Mirabelle aromas. The palate adds sweetness to a body that is essentially taut and sleek, expressing its granite. Lovely tension pervades this and leaves a profound sense of peach, stone and citrus. (Sweet)Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2023 Pinot Gris Wibtal Sommerberg Grand Cru was picked at 400 meters of elevation, facing south-southeast. The gentlest reduction adds a delicious smoky tinge to the nose with pear and citrus tones in equal measure. The palate, once again, is a little mind-bender, lending Riesling poise, freshness and citric verve to this stony, taut, superbly sleek Pinot Gris. The zestiness on the palate becomes ever more intense, only aided and abetted by its vivid juiciness. The 2023 is delicious and so memorable. (Dry)Vinous Media | 97 VM

The 2023 Riesling Vanne Sommerberg Grand Cru is from very old vines. One parcel is now over 100 years old and the other is exactly 70 years old. Boxler emphasizes that this really is only from the old vines themselves—any re-planted younger vines were put into the Riesling Réserve. Stone dust and green-yellow citrus aromas shimmer with the slightest reduction, combining into a wonderfully appetizing nose. The palate is concentrated, with a slight phenolic frame, mouthwatering brightness, freshness and structure helping each other out. Smooth tangerine appears on the mid-palate with an almost creamy effect, forming an elixir of a wine. A luminous echo of tangerine reverberates on its uncompromising, superbly sleek body. Whoa. (Dry)Vinous Media | 97 VM

A fresh and crunchy white with light lemons, mangoes and bitter limes. It’s medium- to full-bodied with lots of fruit. The hot growing season comes through, but it remains fresh at the end. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JS

It must be difficult being Cloudy Bay, because fame brings extra scrutiny and the question, ‘Does this brand offer value for money in the context of the wider region?’ In 2023, the Sauvignon Blanc silences its critics. Its vineyard may be much larger than it once was, but it delivers – dry, clean and elegant, with classic characteristics and the bonus of welcome structure on the finish. It may not be the most flamboyant on the nose, focusing more on the herbal rather than tropical spectrum (whether that’s elderflower, gooseberry or classic passion fruit), but that seems to be a function of the vintage. The 2023 is long, fragrant and exactly what you want from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but with an extra layer of class. Vinous Media | 93 VMShows typical guava, grass and flint aromas with some green melon. Medium-bodied with a solid density of fruit as well as brightness and acid energy. Really well done for this vintage. Drink or hold. Screw cap.James Suckling | 93 JS

The Muscadet “la Pépie” from Domaine de la Pépière is the first example from this appellation that I have tasted from the 2023 vintage and fully underscores just how favored Muscadet was in this difficult growing season. The vibrant bouquet hops from the glass in a complex combination of green apple, lime, lovely minerality, briny notes of ocean breeze and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is zesty, precise and full-bodied, with an excellent core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and cut, a fine spine of acidity and lovely precision on the long,impeccably balanced and complex finish. This is excellent Muscadet and a stunning value! 2024-2045. 92.John Gilman | 92 JG

The 2023 Domaine Durand Sancerre has a captivating profile, featuring white orchard fruits and flowers. This wine boasts a medium to full-bodied structure, with a satiny and deep palate that has a seamless texture. At its core it has a fleshy fruitiness, culminating in a long, saline, ethereal finish.Sokolin Tasting Panel | 93 SP

Domaine Filliatreau’s 2023 Saumur-Champigny Blanc “Cuvée Lena” is a fine bottle, with the bounce and cut of young chenin blanc fruit beautifully wed to its underlying limestone soils. The bouquet hops from the glass in a refined constellation of green apple, quince, chalky soil tones, a touch of lanolin and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a lovely girdle of acidity, excellent focus, a fine core of fruit and a long, well balanced and nicely soil-driven finish. This is still youthful and will drink with even more generosity with a bit of bottle age, but even in its zesty youth it is immensely tasty. 2024-2045. 92.John Gilman | 92 JG

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Village is the usual blend of six terroirs although in 2025, Céline Fontaine told me that the large production might result in one of those being bottled as a separate cuvée. There is a pleasant reduction at play here. It’s quite tensile with yellow fruit and light crushed stone scents. The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity, very pure with a slightly richer, honeyed finish that is irresistible. I see this having wide commercial appeal.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroye 1er Cru has a "buttoned-down" nose that demands coaxing to reveal its yellow fruit, hazelnut and light orange rind scents. The palate is well balanced and opens up wonderfully with aeration, displaying a touch of orange rind, spice and smokiness on the finish. It’s quite mercurial and, to my senses, fascinating.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers 1er Cru has a bright nose with yellow plum, white peach and light sea spray scents that opens beautifully in the glass. The palate is very well balanced and quite intense with a bit more body than other cuvées. It’s a little honeyed toward the finish but the acidity keeps everything in check. This is a charming Chassagne.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a little more mineralité on the nose than the Vergers. Its bouquet contains light hints of clementine and beeswax aromas. The palate is well balanced, fresh and concentrated with a slightly viscous opening. It just needs a little more terroir to shape the finish.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A well-rounded, precise and lively sauvignon blanc. The nose reveals notes of sliced apples, anise, grilled herbs and some limes. It’s medium-bodied with a fresh and well-driven expression on the palate. Seductive and zesty, with an agile and persistent finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

Mid lemon yellow. Grilled almonds Marjolaine suggests, and I agree. Once more the flesh and the oak on the nose are apparent. All the requisite weight and white fruit, silky length, a little salinity, understated but very long indeed. Rather hidden at the moment. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMThe 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, from vines planted in 1996, had quite a bit of that matchstick reduction on the nose when I tasted it from barrel, but you can discern the concentration here. The palate is well balanced with a slightly honeyed opening. Acidity counters its richness as hints of ginger and white pepper emerge toward the finish. Powerful compared to its peers, this Grand Cru will require two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Village is a blend of three parcels (Les Chaumes, Lombardes and Charrières) and sees 15% aged in clay jars to gain freshness. It has a vibrant nose and fine mineralité, with a touch of orange zest and grapefruit developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity and a twist of orange rind on the finish. Not long, but I appreciate the vigor and attack of this Chassagne Village.Vinous Media | 90 VMIn bottle. Pale lemon in colour. A little stricter than the Bourgogne Chardonnay, which provides better balance with the undeniable flesh behind. A good thread of acidity, a touch of fennel, a little salinity and persistent. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 90 JM

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er Cru is a step up from the En Cailleret, just as I found last year—perhaps because it was cropped at the lowest yield after some of the crop was lost to oidium. Suddenly, more tension and mineralité come through, with touches of petrichor and vibrant citrus fruit. The palate is taut and fresh, with well-integrated oak, commendable depth and a very harmonious finale of peach skin and yellow plum. What a lovely Chassagne this is going to be.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMPale yellow. A little soft oak on the nose. Coconut too on the palate. I would like a little more grip here. Soft pillow of white fruits. Fair acidity at the finish, La Romanée doesn’t quite have the length of finish this year. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JM