White and Rosé Wines for Spring

wines

The 2020 Chardonnay Belle Côte, matured for 12 months in about 40% new French oak, explodes with singular aromas of ginger, lemongrass and Meyer lemon with streaks of flint and dried herbs. The medium-bodied palate is just as intense, offering highly concentrated fruit, seamless acidity, expansive, spicy flavors and a finish that goes on and on. Ultra concentrated and perfumed, the Belle Côte is especially expressive this vintage. 2,782 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe aromas of the 2020 Chardonnay Belle-Côte are more herbaceous and move into bright green apple and a very pleasant smokiness. The texture is silky, with Corton-like richness, yet it has levity. Drink over the next 10 or more years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis is an open and thoroughly satisfying young chardonnay, with sliced dried apple, pineapple, lemon zest and honey suckle. Full-bodied with plenty of chardonnay character that evolves on the palate to white-spice and gunpowder undertones. Pine needles, too. A fantastic Belle-Cote for the vintage. Drinkable now, but better in a few years.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2020 Belle Cote was tasted as a barrel sample. It needs a little coaxing to reveal elegant scents of lemon tart, lime leaves, and fresh nectarines with hints of green guava, spice cake, and powdered ginger. Full-bodied, the palate is concentrated with pleasant oiliness and just enough freshness, finishing spicy. The grapes were harvested on 23 September.The Wine Independent | 94-96 TWIShows salted butterscotch, peach and tangerine flavors that are polished and focused, with lemon blossom, poached pear and candied ginger notes on a plush, elegant frame. Features a fresh edge of acidity. Drink now through 2032. 2,782 cases made. Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The nose of the 2020 Chardonnay Ma Belle-Fille is layered with fresh and citrus tones, with lime blossom, white flowers, and lemon pith. The mouthfeel is stony and has more tension while still having a classic viscous feel.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDExquisite, with a generous, fleshy core of ripe peach and apricot flavors, which mingle effortlessly with salted butter notes of fresh pastry, lemon blossom and clipped herbs. The frame is silky and smooth, with fresh acidity weaving in and out, keeping the flavors fresh and focused. Drink now through 2030. 1,636 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2020 Chardonnay Ma Belle Fille comes across as quite tight and mineral, with hints of pencil shavings and toasted almond accenting pineapple and lime. Medium to full-bodied, with ample richness and generosity, it finishes long and lean, with a mouthwatering edge to the citrus flavors.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPVery floral and foresty on the nose, with bark, green pine needle, lemon curd and dried apple. Perfumed. Medium-bodied, dense center-palate. Flinty and spicy. Some blanched almond. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

Aromas of citrus, apple skin, grape skin, vanilla, and brioche. Full-bodied with an oiliness and acidity that runs so long. Sort of rock and roll here. Tight on the finish. Flinty. Needs time to open. Released in the fall, 2023. Better after 2023 to 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Park Avenue was tasted as a tank sample, due to be bottled in December 2022. It skips out of the glass with bright, cheery notes of ginger ale, sassafras, lemon curd, coriander seed, and crystallized orange peel with a hint of white pepper. The full-bodied palate is satiny smooth with layers of citrus and stone fruits, supported by a lively backbone, finishing long and minerally. Aubert bought this vineyard in 2013. It’s located right in between the Lauren and CIX vineyards. A neighbor who owned these 12 acres next to Lauren, previously planted with apples, passed away. There is a long road leading up to the vineyard, hence the name Park Avenue. This is mainly Hyde Clone with a little bit of Montrachet on 101-14 and 420A rootstocks.The Wine Independent | 97-99 TWILocated next to the Lauren site and planted in 2016 to a combination of Montrachet and Hyde Old Wente, the 2021 Chardonnay Park Avenue Estate kicks off with scents of crushed stone, lemon, black tea and some slightly richer notes of stone fruit. Medium to full-bodied, it’s quite liner and direct, with a long, mouthwatering finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay Park Avenue is one of the most powerful wines in this lineup. It offers a striking mix of orange confit with earthy, saline and mineral notes. Like all the 2021s here, the Park Avenue exudes textural intensity and persistence. The palate-staining finish is unforgettable.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis stunning white offers a wonderful mix of fleshy grilled peach, mango and lemon curd flavors, with lush acidity and a whiff of minerality, followed by notes of green cardamom, toasted, salted hazelnut and crème brûlée on the long, juicy finish. Drink now through 2032. 1,947 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Pie crust with brioche, lemon meringue, lime leaf, and blackboard chalk. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, with terrific structure and incredibly complex on the finish with seaweed and umami. Sea breeze, iodine and oyster finish. Superb wine. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL comes from largely Goldridge soils in parcels owned and managed by the Valdez family (UV being the initials of Ulises Valdez, Aubert’s frequent vineyard collaborator, who died in 2018). There are 2,000 cases of this elixir, which offers up classic notes of toasted hazelnuts, white peaches and citrus zest. It’s full-bodied, rich and opulent yet contained and controlled, with great silky length and energy. Aubert describes the oak thusly: "The oak is perfect. It just kisses you with a bit of vanilla and cookie dough." The wine is certainly delicious, and thinking back on it, I wonder if my rating is a bit conservative.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is one of the more exotic wines in the range. Initially a bit ethereal, the 2021 opens beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, where it shows tremendous breadth and notable mineral intensity. The UV-SL is not quite as obvious as some of the other wines in this range, but its pedigree is evident. There’s real density here, and tons of class.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

I tasted the 2021 Chardonnay La Carrière as a finished tank sample the day before it was bottled. It comes from vines planted in 1994 on volcanic soils and was matured for 12 months in about 40% new French oak. It opens soft and creamy on the nose, gaining in intensity as it blossoms to scents of matchstick, saline, Meyer lemons and wafts of lemongrass. The medium-bodied palate has a satiny texture and focused acidity to support its expansive, perfumed fruit, and its classy new oak character is already well integrated. I love this juxtaposition of concentrated flavor and shimmery, energetic acidity. 2,128 cases were made. This will be released in February 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RP

The 2023 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons rockets from the glass with super-intense notes of lime blossoms, fresh yellow apples, orange peel, and chalk dust, plus hints of struck flint and grapefruit oil. The medium-bodied palate shimmers with citrus and stone fruit flavors, supported by fantastic tension and a satiny texture, finishing long and zesty. If served to me blind, I might mistake it for a Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne.The Wine Independent | 100 TWIRemarkable, powerful and complex, with smoked butterscotch, pear, tangerine, white peach, apricot preserves and dried mango, plus floral accents of honeysuckle and orange blossoms. Notes of pineapple upside-down cake, candied ginger and sweet cream add richness and elegance. The freshness from the acidity amplifies the flavors on the epic finish. Drink now through 2038. 1,289 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2023 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is classic Hyde. Just textbook. Orange confit, lychee, burnt sugar, baked apple tart and apricot are dialed up all the way. Flashy, exuberant and opulent to the core, the 2023 is a great Hyde from Mark Aubert. An archetype.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The 2023 Chardonnay Lauren Estate needs a lot of swirling to bring out evocative scents of Bosc pears, honeydew melon, marzipan, and honeycomb, plus hints of chalk dust and lime blossoms. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers intense, profound orchard fruit and savory layers, supported by beautifully knit acidity and a silken texture, finishing long with a spicy kick.The Wine Independent | 100 TWIThe 2023 Chardonnay Lauren is the Mark Aubert wine par excellence. Creamy and layered, the 2023 is so sensual and alluring. Orange confit, mint, baked apple and a kiss of French oak all grace the palate. Lifted, precise and so elegant, the Lauren impresses with its seamless personality and compelling balance.Vinous Media | 99 VMGrilled lemon and pineapple are a bold opening, with litsea oil and lemon balm notes giving way to flavors of ripe peach and apricot, plus a hint of green cardamom. Makrut lime leaf, lemongrass and lemon basil details linger on the long, aromatic and expressive finish. Drink now through 2040. 1,218 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WS

The 2023 Chardonnay Powder House finds Mark Aubert at the top of his game. Rich and unctuous in the glass, the 2023 has it all. Preserved lemon, white flowers, slate, mint, tangerine oil, lychee, and a kiss of French oak fill out the layers. A flicker of reduction adds freshness as this opulent, large-scale Chardonnay shows off its alluring personality.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The 2023 Chardonnay Sugar Shack needs a little shaking and coaxing to bring out delicate notes of Golden Delicious apples, lemon curd, lime jelly, and candle wax, plus nuances of baking bread and chopped almonds. The medium to full-bodied palate is creamy textured with soft acidity and bags of apple and citrus-inspired flavors, finishing with a zesty lift.The Wine Independent | 98 TWIThe 2023 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is redolent of apricot, chamomile, floral-infused honey, marzipan and dried flowers. Brisk acids lend energy. There’s a ton of phenolic depth and savory intensity here. This builds beautifully with time in the glass. Superb.Vinous Media | 96 VMBright and juicy, with wonderful purity to the core of mango puree, grilled lemon, Sumo citrus and tangerine flavors. Shows accents of ripe peach, dried pineapple, crème brûlée and bergamot, along with fresh lemon and lime zest. There’s a touch of sesame candy crunch on the finish. Drink now through 2037. 780 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 2023 Chardonnay UV-SL has vibrant notes of pink grapefruit, fresh pineapple, and peaches, giving way to nuances of Marcona almonds, wet slate, and white pepper. The medium to full-bodied palate is compellingly silky with wonderful freshness, filling the mouth with layers of citrus, tropical, and orchard fruit flavors, finishing with epic length and depth. Stunning!The Wine Independent | 100 TWIThe 2023 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is a wild, exotic wine. Lifted tropical notes meld into a core of green orchard fruit, mint and lime zest. As is so often the case, the UV-SL is defined by its textural presence, layers of fruit and plush, enveloping curves.Vinous Media | 96 VMOffers a stunning mix of crème brûlée, orange curd and peach preserves, with so much depth and complexity to the range of details, including wildflower honey and apricot pastry, plus spicy accents of nutmeg and Saigon cinnamon. Toffee and a touch of smoked salt linger on the finish. Drink now through 2035. 2,357 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS